OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
oh ok lol
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
this is all i can find
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
I dont think im looking in the right spot, too new at 8n's
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 52,424
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
last pics were pretty close.
no sherman.. or at least no arm shifter.
only other possibilities are a cable shifter with a big knob ont he dash and a metal sheathed cable like a boat throttle cable going into the top right side of the bellhousing. or another maker shuch as F&T or hupp or other, in which case there would be a lever or arm on the RIGHT side of the bellhousing..
no sherman.. or at least no arm shifter.
only other possibilities are a cable shifter with a big knob ont he dash and a metal sheathed cable like a boat throttle cable going into the top right side of the bellhousing. or another maker shuch as F&T or hupp or other, in which case there would be a lever or arm on the RIGHT side of the bellhousing..
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
here's each side of the tranny. I'll have to take a look in better light
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
here's the dash
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
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- 52,424
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- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
average good old 8N
no aux trannies that I see.. but no biggie. that 4spd crashbox is decently tough as long as you don't try to shift on t he fly..
no aux trannies that I see.. but no biggie. that 4spd crashbox is decently tough as long as you don't try to shift on t he fly..
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
good to know, I think i got a good deal at 500 bucks
LD1
Epic Contributor
Uh....you got a steal @ $500:laughing:
Yep, no aux. trannys though. I personally like them cause the sherman gives about double the top speed, and I road my tractors frequently, so road speed is important to me.
Since you are new to 8n's (and to save you from asking later) here is a quick crash course:
The lever in the second picture on the side of the rear axle housing (this would be by your right heel) is the PTO on/off lever. Clutch MUST be pressed to turn pto ON, but dont need to be to turn it off.
In pic 4, the small lever you see tucked up under the seat is draft control override.
A couple other pointers incase you havent figured it out, the PTO NEEDS to be turning for the 3PH to raise. The pump is driven off the PTO.
Also, the PTO is transmission driven, so if you ever get something running off the PTO that has a lot of inertia, like a bushhog, and push the clutch to stop, the inertia will keep driving you. You can buy an aftermarket overrunning clutch to prevent this if you ever decide to bushhog with it.
Yep, no aux. trannys though. I personally like them cause the sherman gives about double the top speed, and I road my tractors frequently, so road speed is important to me.
Since you are new to 8n's (and to save you from asking later) here is a quick crash course:
The lever in the second picture on the side of the rear axle housing (this would be by your right heel) is the PTO on/off lever. Clutch MUST be pressed to turn pto ON, but dont need to be to turn it off.
In pic 4, the small lever you see tucked up under the seat is draft control override.
A couple other pointers incase you havent figured it out, the PTO NEEDS to be turning for the 3PH to raise. The pump is driven off the PTO.
Also, the PTO is transmission driven, so if you ever get something running off the PTO that has a lot of inertia, like a bushhog, and push the clutch to stop, the inertia will keep driving you. You can buy an aftermarket overrunning clutch to prevent this if you ever decide to bushhog with it.
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
Thanks for the info I was wondering how the the 3 point worked
Had the same problem with 1949 8n I had put in new points and coondenser spark plugs everything I ended up putting in another condenser and a new harness she starts and runs great now. First condenser was bad even though it was new.
Last edited:
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
I went out today and now i cant get it to roll over, charged the battery up all day and still wont roll over? Im going to have to see if the benix gear is stuck but not sure if that would be it or not. I should add the starter soleniod just clicks.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
what does a voltmeter on the bat say when you hit the start button and the solenoid clicks? if it stays high.. like 4.5v on a 6v system.. then loosent he starter screws a bit and pop a chissle inthere and give it a whack to loosen it up a bit.. or put in 4th and rock back and forth to pop loose.
if v drops way off bat is bad.
if bat is good but no starter and not stuck.. check bat and ground connections / cables..
if v drops way off bat is bad.
if bat is good but no starter and not stuck.. check bat and ground connections / cables..
LD1
Epic Contributor
Clean the battery connections for starters on that. And verify you are getting a full charge on the battery.
I assume you have a volt meter?
Check and see if you are getting voltage at the heavy gauge on the starter relay where it comes from the battery?
If you arent, you dont have a good connection.
If you ARE, push the starter button and see if you are getting juice out the other side of the relay.
If you are, assure you are getting the voltage at the starter itself. IF you ARE, then its something wrong with the starter if it still aint cranking.
If you are not getting juice OUT of the relay, then its in the control side of the circuit. This is a simple part. That third wire on the starter relay (Much smaller one) ONLY goes up to the push-button starter. And when you push it, it grounds itself completing the circuit. You can test this by checking ohms from that point on the relay to ground, and make sure it goes to 0 ohms when you press the starter button. But odds are it isnt that if you are hearing the clicking. Clicking is a sign that THAT part is working fine.
You most likely just have a bad connection on the HEAVY guage wire side of the circuit.
I assume you have a volt meter?
Check and see if you are getting voltage at the heavy gauge on the starter relay where it comes from the battery?
If you arent, you dont have a good connection.
If you ARE, push the starter button and see if you are getting juice out the other side of the relay.
If you are, assure you are getting the voltage at the starter itself. IF you ARE, then its something wrong with the starter if it still aint cranking.
If you are not getting juice OUT of the relay, then its in the control side of the circuit. This is a simple part. That third wire on the starter relay (Much smaller one) ONLY goes up to the push-button starter. And when you push it, it grounds itself completing the circuit. You can test this by checking ohms from that point on the relay to ground, and make sure it goes to 0 ohms when you press the starter button. But odds are it isnt that if you are hearing the clicking. Clicking is a sign that THAT part is working fine.
You most likely just have a bad connection on the HEAVY guage wire side of the circuit.
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
Thanks guys look at tomorrow
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
ok so i checked out some voltages, battery on charge all night so got 6.58, then on the battery side of the starter solenoid again 6.58 and on the other side of the solenoid when the button is pushed i get 6.55.
dont have much time to play with it today working nights but friday afternoon i will have the time for it..
dont have much time to play with it today working nights but friday afternoon i will have the time for it..
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
no v drop.. so no load.
whack it with a hammer a few times while holding the button down.
if it catches.. plan on pulling the starter for a brush job and perhaps a comutator polish...
whack it with a hammer a few times while holding the button down.
if it catches.. plan on pulling the starter for a brush job and perhaps a comutator polish...
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yep, getting good voltage to starter AND through the relay, so the issue is the starter.
It isnt a bendix stuck, or you would see a voltage drop as s-guy mentioned. If you do what he says, and the hammer trick, new brushes and a polish dont work, new starters are terribly expensive. you can get them for about $100
It isnt a bendix stuck, or you would see a voltage drop as s-guy mentioned. If you do what he says, and the hammer trick, new brushes and a polish dont work, new starters are terribly expensive. you can get them for about $100
OP
kool cat
Bronze Member
I went and looked at the starter today and it will spin with a screw driver. tried the hammer thing and nothing. i played with the brushes a bit to make sure they were touching, so i guess its a starter
LD1
Epic Contributor
yep, if you are getting 6v between the wire going to the starter and ground, and it still isnt spinning, its the starter.
Good thing is that they arent terribly expensive.
Good thing is that they arent terribly expensive.
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