8N rewiring questions

[Frosty2]

Have what I think is a '48 or '49 8N w/a 9N engine swap. Trying to correct all the problems that the previous owner didn't. The electics is my next project. The 12 volt conversion looks to have been done without a kit. From the homemade brackets and the wiring mess it is my guess that it was done from what was available. I plan on replacing the old 12 volt alternator with a 1 wire set-up and eliminating the installed, under the dash, regulator. After searching through the old posts, I have a few questions. Now I have a 3 terminal ignition switch (still uses safety switch button to start) and plan on buying a new one. From the wiring diagrams that I've found here, it looks like a 2 position keyed switch is needed. Next question is about the resistor block. I think I have a 12 volt round coil mounted on the left side engine block. I have the front mounted distributor. Do I still need the resistor assembly, or is this only a spot to connect all the wiring? Replaced the Amp meter with a 12 volt meter if this makes any difference. Trying now to get a parts list together to order what is needed. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[simonmeridew]

Frosty
oh boy, you have started a very complicated project!!! Are you going to stay with the 12 volt system, or go back to the 6 volt, that worked well in 1949 and will continue to work well in an engine in good shape. (My 8N starts at 0 degrees, any colder than that I don't want to be on it anyway) Is your battery 12 volt and in good shape?
Can't help with some of your ? because no telling about the homemade conversions, but I can tell you an ammeter doesn't care what the volts are, it measures amps, not volts, so you didn't need to replace it. A voltmeter will show if a system is "charging" by indicating voltage somewhat higher than static battery voltage That is, 12 volts engine off, and in the neighborhood of 12.5-14.5 volts with the engine running and system charging.
simonmeridew

 

[Frosty2]

Battery isn't too old. Plan on keeping the 12 volt since it was running when I purchased it back in November. Have gone through the carb w/ a rebuild and float, replaced a broken at the exhaust system spicket manifold w/ a new repop manifold, put a new exhaust pipe on, and changed out the oil pressure and amp meter with new guages. Went through all the oil lines and fuel line w/ new. Just refreshing a few of the neglected systems as I go. Want to exchange the multi wire alternator with a 1 wire that I know is good (1 year old) that was saved from a 1980 Buick that I scrapped. Now I'm getting close to tackling the electical mess. Found a 2 pole new ignition switch but the resistor block that has many wires going to it in the wiring diagrams that I've found has me stumped. Could the resistor be for the points? I was under the impression that if you had a 12 volt coil the resistor block isn't needed. If that's the case I'd like to use a terminal block set-up to organize the wiring. Another thing I'm aware of is there should be fuses to protect the alternator, and lighting. So, this is why I'm asking about what is needed to get an order together. Thanks, Dave

 

[danktx]

Dave, it was good that you replaced the amp meter, it was likely 20 or 30 amp max and that one wire alternator will put out 60 to 100 amps so you have removed the potential for a short and maybe a fire. The ballast resistor is needed when you have points type ignition. If you run the ignition without a ballast resistor you will in short order burn up the points. All 12 volt vehicles I am aware of that used points have a ballast resistor or resistor wire feeding the positive terminal of the coil, so don't omit it unless you like replacing points often.

DanK
Good luck with your project.

 

[Soundguy]

it's very likely the old reg is not being used.. only muh older alts used an external vreg.

avoid the 1 wire alts.. get a 3 wire.. use a lamp like a 194 in the excite line, ( #1 ) and loop #2 to the charge stud.. this aplies to delco 10si/12si

soundguy

 

[Frosty2]

Thanks for the confirmation on the amp meter. I was told that could happen. I understand the need for the ballast resistor now. I'm assuming that the front mounted coil has been modified since there is 1 wire that comes off of it and goes to a stud on the round style coil. I'm not sure of the old style regulator being used or not, but the is a lot of wires plugged into the bottom of it. Most of the time when I make a mistake it doesn't work out too good. Today was different. Checked the alternator from the Buick today and it is a 3 wire. Soundguy, when you mentioned the 194 lamp, are you meaning a type of light bulb that will be on when the tractor is running? Thanks again everyone for the help.

 

[Soundguy]

more than likely the old reg is just a convienient wire location.

i reccomend a full rewire.

the round coil conversion is a good thing. round 6v and round 12v are better coils than the square ones.

soudnguy

 

[Frosty2]

Thanks, going to see if it will start then procede to the next project, wiring. Figured out the lamp sugestion also. Same as the red (idiot) light on your car dash that goes out when you start up or comes on when your not charging. Think that will be a nice feature to have. Now I need to find a nice, small light set-up. The more I'm finding out online and in books the rewire doesn't seem as hard.

 

[Soundguy]

rewire on an 8n is easy.. the wire harness, is about 4' long with 3 circuits if you have lamps.. 2 without...

panel mount red lamps can be had at radio shack

soundguy