'76 Deere 2040 Restoration

/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #1  

curdy

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2009
Messages
150
Location
Concord, NC
Tractor
JD 2040, JD LX188
Hi everyone, I have picked up on the 2040 project as more of a restoration now (which was always part of the plan, just delayed longer). It's a project to learn skills on for my children and myself included. The goal is to have it fixed up and looking nice for next year's Holiday parade in town. The kids are excited for this and it has helped to draw them in more spending quality time together on the project.

I've been posting a few specific questions here and there and am beginning to believe its better to just have one thread dedicated to the entire restoration instead of numerous threads. I also see one thread as a way to record the project with the kids more like a journal.

So come watch a guy that has a lot to learn or feel free to join in with some advice. As always, thanks for the help and encouragement, it truly is appreciated!

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Currently we've been experimenting with electrolysis for removing*rust. Cool stuff!

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/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #2  
Looking forward to your progress!!! Thanks for starting a thread about it.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #3  
curdy
Are you aware that '76 2040 has open center hyd's not closed center hyd's such as most other models of that era?
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#4  
curdy
Are you aware that '76 2040 has open center hyd's not closed center hyd's such as most other models of that era?

I am. Now if you asked me to explain the difference in any sort of detail I would struggle. Why do you ask?
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#5  
So a couple of questions:

Would you recommend getting a tech manual? I have a parts manual and its quite handy, but not sure if the other is worth getting.

I'd like to remove the rockshaft lever quadrant to refinish it. Its in fairly rough shape and would be much easier to fix up off the tractor. Looks like I need to remove the rockshaft cover to get it out. Would that be causing more trouble than its worth?

I plan to pull the tractor out this weekend to get it cleaned off better. Would you all recommend using a foam wand on the pressure washer or hand spraying some purple power on it then rinsing with just the hose? I'm not worried about paint coming off as its in terrible shape anyway so the more that comes off, the better right now.

What should absolutely not get wet besides the starter (is it better to cover or just remove temporarily)? I'd like to get everything as clean as I can now so more can be done in the shop...engine included.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #6  
I'd feel more comfortable having the service tech manual.. might avoid some mistakes.. which could be costly or time consuming.

And for sure, I'd remove the FEL.. might just be me, but looks in the way.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #7  
I am. Now if you asked me to explain the difference in any sort of detail I would struggle. Why do you ask?

The largest majority of JD 20-55 series utility tractors had closed center hyd's except the models 820,830 & early 2040 with 3 cyl engine(<SN 266749). Components for each type hyd system will not interchange or operate correctly on incorrect system. Some time new tractor owner decide to add more hyd control valve & I just wanted to make you aware of the hyd component differences.

Irony is back in the 60's-80's JD reps at sales/service meeting bragged about the advantage of saving fuel with closed center hyd's over open center hyd's but fast forward to today the vast majority of new/newer JD tractors have open center hyd's.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #8  
Sub'd for the program. That's awesome you are teaching your kids how to wrench!
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #9  
So a couple of questions:

Would you recommend getting a tech manual? I have a parts manual and its quite handy, but not sure if the other is worth getting.

I'd like to remove the rockshaft lever quadrant to refinish it. Its in fairly rough shape and would be much easier to fix up off the tractor. Looks like I need to remove the rockshaft cover to get it out. Would that be causing more trouble than its worth?

I plan to pull the tractor out this weekend to get it cleaned off better. Would you all recommend using a foam wand on the pressure washer or hand spraying some purple power on it then rinsing with just the hose? I'm not worried about paint coming off as its in terrible shape anyway so the more that comes off, the better right now.

What should absolutely not get wet besides the starter (is it better to cover or just remove temporarily)? I'd like to get everything as clean as I can now so more can be done in the shop...engine included.

Over the many yrs of employment at JD dealer I witnessed many tractors washed with high pressure washer with no ill affects. What is the problem with rockshaft lever?
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #10  
Isn't this the German built JD ? From what I have noticed the engine is considered a step child.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Yes, this is built is Germany. We're not sinking a ton of money into this girl (knowing this isn't a high dollar desirable model). Its a handy back saver around the house and fun test bed for skill building.

FEL is in the way, but its staying on for now. There are a few chores to do with it before taking it off. From the looks of things, its going to be quite the chore in itself to remove then that time comes.

TX: the lever is fine (at least now it is, I welded it back together because it was snapped in two). The quadrant is rusty and worn down from metal on metal contact. I guess the better way to ask is: Is there much of an advantage to go ahead and take the rockshaft cover off to perform any maintenance or don't mess with what's working? If the answer is no, then its probably better to just deal with repairing the quadrant while on the machine. Lifting the cover isn't an issue.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #12  
I would pull the rockshaft cover just so the kids can see the insides. The gears, shift forks, etc.
TxJim can probably recommend what to check/repair while you have it off. I am thinking new seals for the rockshaft valve.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #13  
Isn't this the German built JD ? From what I have noticed the engine is considered a step child.

May I ask why you think the JD 2040 has a step child engine? That engine is in the same class design as brand spanking new JD tractors built today. The 4276 engine which is a 4 cyl from same type engine group can have over 110 HP.

Maybe you're confusing 2040 with the model 2010 which has a step child engine with 4 cylinder liners attached to a single plate & 2010 diesel engine cyl head as pre-combustion chambers with glow plugs
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #14  
curdy
Can you post a photo of your repaired RS control lever? Removing FEL is easy to do if you decide to do so but I've mounted/dismounted many FEL's on JD tractors. I wish I lived closer because I'd sure like to have your FEL to put on a 2040 that I just purchased.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I would pull the rockshaft cover just so the kids can see the insides. The gears, shift forks, etc.
TxJim can probably recommend what to check/repair while you have it off. I am thinking new seals for the rockshaft valve.

I like the way you think.

curdy
Can you post a photo of your repaired RS control lever? Removing FEL is easy to do if you decide to do so but I've mounted/dismounted many FEL's on JD tractors. I wish I lived closer because I'd sure like to have your FEL to put on a 2040 that I just purchased.

I'm still new at welding, but I'm happy with how this came out. The lever was broken right through the round part of the opening near the top. Unfortunately I didn't take a before picture. FEL will only be coming off to fix it up then going back on. Shoot, I bought the tractor for that! I'll definitely be seeking your advice when it comes time to remove it. Its a 145 loader. Probably not that much to buy for your 2040.

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/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #16  
Is 3 pt control shaft difficult to move which caused handle to require welding? BTW your repair looks fine to me.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Is 3 pt control shaft difficult to move which caused handle to require welding? BTW your repair looks fine to me.

Nope...or at least to my knowledge when the damage was done. I bought the tractor and the lever was hanging on by a thread. I went ahead and pulled it apart so I could store the top piece safely until I had a welder, knew how to use it...and had some time = 8 years later. I think it was more of an accident/abuse that damaged it. My guess would be that someone was leaning with outward pressure on it hard often enough that it broke. The pin that secures it to the quadrant would support the lower section but not the upper. I wouldn't think there's enough leverage to break a piece like that so easily...but having employees has opened my eyes to just how rough people can be on equipment.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Working on getting the covers off the trans and rockshaft. How do I get the ring snap off L4035T? They don稚 have any holes for pliers. Looks like its supposed to compress to come out but now sure how that痴 supposed to be done.
 
/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration #19  
May I ask why you desire to remove snap ring(KEY 2 PN L4035T). Is gear shift lever broken? I'll add that snap ring will be a PITA to remove IMHO. I'm unaware of any cover on rockshaft housing except at the very frt that gear shift levers protrude through.
 

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/ '76 Deere 2040 Restoration
  • Thread Starter
#20  
May I ask why you desire to remove snap ring(KEY 2 PN L4035T). Is gear shift lever broken? I'll add that snap ring will be a PITA to remove IMHO. I'm unaware of any cover on rockshaft housing except at the very frt that gear shift levers protrude through.

I am having difficulty getting the knobs off the levers to remove the boots so I can get the cover off (cover needs some re-shaping). Boots are not in bad shape as I replaced them a few years ago. Still may replace them anyway because they sat outside for a while during my move south. I figured I'd get the levers off so I could submerge the ends to loosen them up. Loud and clear on the rings being a PITA to remove, so I'll go with some heat on the lever. I have some high temp insulation that goes on woodstoves that I can protect the knobs from toasting. I'll just have to be sure not to heat up the lever too much and damage them from the inside.

Thought I could get a pipe wrench on the lever but it would just slip each time. I guess the levers are hardened because the teeth on the wrench could not get a bite at all.

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One of my helpers last night.
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