40x60x14 Shop

[EddieWalker]

View attachment 576728
Rafters are up!

Your crew was doing so well with everything, it's kind of shocking to see what they did with your sheeting. The sheeting is what keeps the walls for racking, and gives your studs the ability to stand up and remain straight. Once it's installed, then you can remove your bracing because the sheeting holds the building together. To get the most strength, you want to have full sheets in the corners, top and bottom. And most importantly, you want your sheets to tie all your headers together with your walls. You NEVER want to cut your sheeting into squares to fit around the doors and windows. You cut the sheeting into an L shape so that it holds the wall studs together with the headers to lock that weak spot in your wall together. With your large door openings, this is really important.

If this was my building, I would have them remove that top little square of plywood that looks like a filler piece and have them install a full sheet in the top corner. Then cut out the opening for the door. I personally attach my sheeting first, then use a sawzall to cut out the windows and doors from the inside so I have a perfect fit. In the area between the garage doors, I would want the sheeting too look like the letter T when it's installed.

What type of nails are they using to install the sheeting? How long? Once I see something odd, I question everything. Is somebody different then your framing crew installing your sheeting?

 

[JHurt]

Your crew was doing so well with everything, it's kind of shocking to see what they did with your sheeting. The sheeting is what keeps the walls for racking, and gives your studs the ability to stand up and remain straight. Once it's installed, then you can remove your bracing because the sheeting holds the building together. To get the most strength, you want to have full sheets in the corners, top and bottom. And most importantly, you want your sheets to tie all your headers together with your walls. You NEVER want to cut your sheeting into squares to fit around the doors and windows. You cut the sheeting into an L shape so that it holds the wall studs together with the headers to lock that weak spot in your wall together. With your large door openings, this is really important.

If this was my building, I would have them remove that top little square of plywood that looks like a filler piece and have them install a full sheet in the top corner. Then cut out the opening for the door. I personally attach my sheeting first, then use a sawzall to cut out the windows and doors from the inside so I have a perfect fit. In the area between the garage doors, I would want the sheeting too look like the letter T when it's installed.

What type of nails are they using to install the sheeting? How long? Once I see something odd, I question everything. Is somebody different then your framing crew installing your sheeting?

Thanks for your input Eddie! I am not a builder, nor do I know anything about building, so I wouldn't know to question any of the processes as they build. It all looks like progress to me. Same crew doing all the work on the building. As far as the size of the nail, and length I'm at a loss as well. I would say it was 2-3" long, but I have no idea the size just because I'm not familiar with it. If Richard sees this thread he may be able to comment better than I can. He was over Sunday evening and pointed out a couple that they had missed on when nailing the sheeting.

 

[EddieWalker]

As to the nail size, my main concern was if they where using framing nails or roofing nails. Framing nails two inches long are fine. Roofing nails should never be used, but seem to be used all the time for sheeting. Another thing about nailing, on a 4x8 full sheet, you nail ever six inches on the edge and every foot on the interior.

 

[ovrszd]

They used nail guns. I'm guessing 2 1/2" x .131". They missed more often than I liked.

The way they cut the sheeting surprised me too. Ed is considered a quality builder. I've saw several of his finished builds. This is the first time I've been able to follow him step by step.

They did all the truss work by hand. Fabricated a scaffold system with walkway the length of the building and stacked the trusses in four stacks laying across this scaffolding. Then put them in place by hand and added purlins. Took them two days. I was surprised they didn't use a Skytrak or se equivalent.

I took some more Drone pics this morning. Visited with Ed briefly. I don't know him well enough to ask questions. Afraid he'd think I was being critical. When actually I'd be trying to educate myself. Every time my builders took a break or stopped for lunch I asked about the things I didn't understand. I learned a LOT about professional building conctruction.

My guys over delivered all the dimensional lumber. Critically inspected each piece and sent back the rejects. They rejected 54 2x6x14 studs. Ordered a brick of 2x4x16 purlins. Sent half back.

I don't know Ed's method of purchase or where the materials are coming from. He might not have that luxury. I don't see a stack of rejects onsite. I saw several studs in place that could have been rejected.

As Eddie pointed out, these things will impact the structural strength of the building to a certain degree. Whether that impact will ever be noticed is beyond my pay grade to determine.

I'm certainly not condemning what I see. I think it will be a very nice shop. I'm just curious about things I see.

 

[ovrszd]

They are framing nails Eddie. I didn't check frequency.

 

[JHurt]

Had to make a parts delivery so a ran by the house to check progress. Definitely framing nails, and looks like they put them every six inches around the perimeter of the sheet, and every foot on the interior. I didn’t get s good visual on it, but they have tin on the north side of the roof! Maybe if the rain holds off this afternoon they’ll get the south side done.

 

[ovrszd]

They were drillin tin when I was there. It's misting up here now. My guys are scurrying layin pex and steel so my house pad is ready for pour tomorrow.

 

[JHurt]

Got a roof on just in time for it to start raining a bit this eve.

 

[TSO]

Congrats on the build! Always exciting to see new barns go up.

I was interested to hear the requirement for nails every 6" on the edges and 12" on the interior (of sheathing...). I've never heard that before but I guess there's rules for everything!

My dream is to build a 60x100 barn, though I don't have the money or, truly, the "need" at this point. Maybe when I win the lotto and/or retire...

Always nice to have a trusted friend around like Richard who can assist!

 

[JHurt]

Congrats on the build! Always exciting to see new barns go up.

I was interested to hear the requirement for nails every 6" on the edges and 12" on the interior (of sheathing...). I've never heard that before but I guess there's rules for everything!

My dream is to build a 60x100 barn, though I don't have the money or, truly, the "need" at this point. Maybe when I win the lotto and/or retire...

Always nice to have a trusted friend around like Richard who can assist!

Thanks! I'm so excited to finally have one being built.

 

[JHurt]

I used OSB to sheathe the inside walls of my 40x60x14 pole building-I actually preferred the look to 1/2 CDXView attachment 576776

Still have to sheath from 8 to 14?need to get scaffolding in place to do that this weekend

I think we are going to do plywood up to 8ft, and then metal paneling the rest of the way up to 14ft.

 

[WVBill]

View attachment 576257

Just catching up. It doesn't look like the sill plate is PT lumber. Isn't that required for lumber in contact with concrete?

 

[JHurt]

Just catching up. It doesn't look like the sill plate is PT lumber. Isn't that required for lumber in contact with concrete?

It is treated lumber on the sill plate. I do agree that the picture makes it look like regular lumber though.

 

[GLyford]

Some of the newer treated formulas do not have a lot of color to them.

 

[WVBill]

Thought that might be it.
I remember back when PT lumber was a dark blue-ish grey. Then they changed the formula and it became a light green-ish color. Then I moved out here to Washington and PT lumber is a dark red-ish brown color.

 

[Jchonline]

Very nice. We just finished our 24x30x12 a few weeks ago. We also did radiant heating. Ours looks much the same. Still have electric and insulation to go! It is simple, but it will work well for us.

 

[ovrszd]

Very nice. We just finished our 24x30x12 a few weeks ago. We also did radiant heating. Ours looks much the same. Still have electric and insulation to go! It is simple, but it will work well for us.

Did you pour your concrete with the rebar layin on the insulation board?

Only two loops of pex?

 

[Jchonline]

Did you pour your concrete with the rebar layin on the insulation board?

Only two loops of pex?

Yes so ours is foam board, rebar, then the wire mesh, then the pex tied to the wire mesh. We also have the foam boards taped at the seams to prevent moisture.

Yes only 2 loops of pex, I assume you mean zones?. We have a solar/thermal guy that does tons of these every year up here. This is going to be off grid, so we have him doing the planning and work on the portions of the build.

 

[JHurt]

Looks like we got the rest of the exterior sheeting, and a couple of windows today!


And a breaker box.

 

[GSVette]

I think we are going to do plywood up to 8ft, and then metal paneling the rest of the way up to 14ft.

Both work-I just preferred the OSB pricing (and look). I considered so metal but decided to be consistent all the way to 14’. Will be finishing the band at 8-12’ this weekend from my cheapie HF scaffold. Did get a suggestion from the wife to add a man lift to our collection of equipment