336D injectors
- Thread starter Vern
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Got curious this afternoon and used a hand held compression gage;
Front and rear cylinder I could not hold in the pressuer was so high.
Middle got up to 75 lbs but I could hold it. Guess I need to dig a little deeper. Will check the valves next.
Vern
Front and rear cylinder I could not hold in the pressuer was so high.
Middle got up to 75 lbs but I could hold it. Guess I need to dig a little deeper. Will check the valves next.
Vern
The gage is clamped like an injector into the head to check compression and is the reason I mentioned it to you earlier.
Btw it should have 450 psi no way a guy can hold that much pressure back by hand plus there is a pre-chamber that has a seal under it further complicating getting a reading with anything other than the right setup.
And valves are set @ .006" cold but as long as they are on the loose side rather than too tight the adjustment will have very little to do with cranking compression, whether they seal or not will most definitely have an effect. hth
Btw it should have 450 psi no way a guy can hold that much pressure back by hand plus there is a pre-chamber that has a seal under it further complicating getting a reading with anything other than the right setup.
And valves are set @ .006" cold but as long as they are on the loose side rather than too tight the adjustment will have very little to do with cranking compression, whether they seal or not will most definitely have an effect. hth
California
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- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
I wonder if a bent pushrod indicates a stuck valve? You might want to check that before reassembly.
Hope it runs good once you get the parts in they do run real nice and smooth when everything is right. That's a good machine mine is basically the same tractor it serves me very very well yours should too. :thumbsup:
Domush
Platinum Member
Car doc, can you record your tractor running for us so we can know what a properly running 336 is supposed to sound like?
One issue I have had since day one is not having any idea what a properly running 3 cylinder should sound like. I'd hate to think mine is meant to sound like it does, but have no idea.
One issue I have had since day one is not having any idea what a properly running 3 cylinder should sound like. I'd hate to think mine is meant to sound like it does, but have no idea.
I got 2 short videos for ya on my iPhone but they are 321mb on 1 and 78mb on the other and TBN only has a 9.7mb limit on even zip files I tried that too still too big.
So until I can figure out how to do you tube or another type file sharing site I cant post either sorry I am not into all that stuff and have no clue sorry.
I will keep working on it though now I have found something else I dont know how to do so there in lies a challenge I know it cant be that hard I am just that old school.
Domush
Platinum Member
HAH! Yeah, youtube is the only way to go on that one. I'll make a video of mine running tomorrow, so hopefully you guys can help me figure out why it just sounds wrong.
Guys
Installed new injectors, filters and fluids. Fired it up and it was still running on 2 cylinders for the first couple minutes, middle cylinder kicked in - RPMs increased, smoke decreaed and engine sounded good. Ran it around the yard for a few minutes and the smoke stared and you could hear the miss. Removed the valve cover and it had thrown the push rod again. The lock nut was loose and the adjustment screw was back all the way out. I am positive it was locked down but who knows. Got it all back together and started it, middle cylinder will hit every once in a while but all the time. cracked the fuel like and it has fuel, there are bubble on the threads, not sure if that is pressure from the cylinder.
Any ideas of what to look for next?
Vern
Installed new injectors, filters and fluids. Fired it up and it was still running on 2 cylinders for the first couple minutes, middle cylinder kicked in - RPMs increased, smoke decreaed and engine sounded good. Ran it around the yard for a few minutes and the smoke stared and you could hear the miss. Removed the valve cover and it had thrown the push rod again. The lock nut was loose and the adjustment screw was back all the way out. I am positive it was locked down but who knows. Got it all back together and started it, middle cylinder will hit every once in a while but all the time. cracked the fuel like and it has fuel, there are bubble on the threads, not sure if that is pressure from the cylinder.
Any ideas of what to look for next?
Vern
I signed up on facebook duh maybe a mistake elifino never did anything like that before!
We use 2 cans and a tight string to communicate around here :laughing: haha check it out I hope the link works?
Yanmar YM3810D startup and running (short version) | Facebook
edit: Btw the engine noise (tic etc) is a lot more pronounced in the video than in person it isn't anywhere near as bad as it sounds and even in person it is naturally louder cold (which this was basically a cold start well after the long version was recorded I did this one so it had ran 5 minutes already roughly) it completely goes away warm maybe I can do a warm engine one later.
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Pump is my guess with the bubbles being the telltale sign there should be the same amount of fuel coming out of all 3. hth
I dont know if a guy could swap individual plungers around at the pump and see if the miss follows? I am not a diesel mechanic this is probably common knowledge but not to me sorry.
It looks like you could but there may be a procedure that prohibits that dunno will have to research it in my manual and get back...
Domush
Platinum Member
Awesome! My 336D sounds exactly the same! I thought it was missing, but the sound is identical. Glad to know!
My neighbor has a 4cyl bobcat and it sounds so smooth, I wasn't sure if mine should sound that smooth or not. Now I know. I feel so much better! Thanks Car Doc.
I hope you figure out your issue vern.
My neighbor has a 4cyl bobcat and it sounds so smooth, I wasn't sure if mine should sound that smooth or not. Now I know. I feel so much better! Thanks Car Doc.
I hope you figure out your issue vern.
284 International
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I had an issue with my YM240 losing the pushrod. I didn't know it, but I had neglected to put on the rocker arm retainers. According to the parts book, the YM336 uses a pedestal (They call it a "rocker arm support") to mount the rockers, and they are each retained by a bolt and washer. Are you sure the retaining bolts are correctly assembled, and the pedestal is aligned correctly? If they are not, you may be losing the pushrod because the rocker arm can move or float a little bit. Have you made sure the decompression lever is within acceptable clearances?
The fact that the middle cylinder kicks in every so often implies to me that the cylinder is mechanically acceptable. You should check the other cylinders' behavior when you crack the fuel lines. If bubbles appear in all three, then that must be normal. Do you have the same compression in all three cylinders?
According to the parts book the valve adjustment has all the right parts. It raining here today so may try to fab a price to check the compression. Then will come up with a way to check to see that all three lines are pumping the same amount of diesel.
Thanks for the help
Vern
Thanks for the help
Vern
I mentioned Hoyes compression gage its really worth a look if your time is worth anything. The 60-70 bucks they get for it is a bargain I am not kidding one bit the adaprer alone would easily cost that much just to machine.
I think 284's mention of the decomp adjustment has a lot of merit and definitely worth re-checking that mechanism just to be sure as long as its got clearance above the rocker and not holding it down it should not be causing a miss.
edit: The cable being too tight once the valve cover is installed is another issue whether the rockers are installed properly or not the levers outside the cover are the final adjustment the cable that is.
I dont have the spec here at this moment but I think its .010". :thumbsup:
I think 284's mention of the decomp adjustment has a lot of merit and definitely worth re-checking that mechanism just to be sure as long as its got clearance above the rocker and not holding it down it should not be causing a miss.
edit: The cable being too tight once the valve cover is installed is another issue whether the rockers are installed properly or not the levers outside the cover are the final adjustment the cable that is.
I dont have the spec here at this moment but I think its .010". :thumbsup:
284 International
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The compression being low won't make the pushrod fall out. That's a potentially serious problem, and you can't really rely on anything else until the engine will hold its parts where they are supposed to go.
Do you have the proper compression tester? As Car Doc pointed out, the compression on a diesel motor is much higher than a gasoline engine. You won't be able to hold the pressure produced.
If you got some graduated container (I'm thinking something like the medicine spoons that are used for cough syrup) and cranked the engine for, say, 10 pulses of fuel, you could probably get a fairly accurate measurement of the fuel dispensed by the pump for each cylinder. That wouldn't tell you if the pump were leaking under high pressure, but would at least be a starting point.
Do you have the proper compression tester? As Car Doc pointed out, the compression on a diesel motor is much higher than a gasoline engine. You won't be able to hold the pressure produced.
If you got some graduated container (I'm thinking something like the medicine spoons that are used for cough syrup) and cranked the engine for, say, 10 pulses of fuel, you could probably get a fairly accurate measurement of the fuel dispensed by the pump for each cylinder. That wouldn't tell you if the pump were leaking under high pressure, but would at least be a starting point.
