Rear Blade 3 pt rear blade

[AKfish]

John,

Good post. Now maybe by the time I'm 90, I'll be halfway good at it

Ken

Headaches I had using my rear blade to level ANYTHING was the major reason I went with a top n tilt setup.

Patience and focus on the real bad spots first before you tackle the larger areas is very important.

Good advice here.

AKfish

 

[Ken45101]

What's "top n tilt"?

 

[GreenWannabe]

"Top 'n tilt" is kinda shorthand for Top and tilt cylinders. One cylinder replaces the top link, and the other replaces one side link, usually the right. A top and tilt setup requires two rear valve sets, one to control each cylinder. It really helps with implements such as a box blade or rear blade to control ripping depth, cut aggressiveness, and tilting to cut in a ditch. Without top and tilt, the operator has to climb off the tractor and manually turn the top or side link to change angles, takes a lot longer than just moving a lever, and much more difficult considering the weight of the implement on the hitch.

 

[wedge40]

What's "top n tilt"?

Its a hydraulic top link. That way instead of getting off your tractor and walking around to either lengthen or shorten the top link you just use a remote to do it from your seat.
Here is a commercial version.
Tractor Hydraulic toplink, Top-N-Tilt, Side link

You can also just get a cylinder from someplace like surpluscenter and make your own.

Wedge

 

[Ken45101]

Thanks for the replies and reference for the "top n tilt". I'll have to put that on my wish list.

The thought of a hydraulic top link has crossed my mind many times, but I thought I was just getting lazy But it definitely would allow one to more finely adjust the angle than if you have to keep getting in and out of the seat.

Ken

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What's "top n tilt"?

This is "TnT"

 

[MJPetersen]

Good timing for this discussion: Are the gauge wheels mounted at the ends of the blade or as an idler behind the rear pivot?

They really can be either way. The wheels mounted on the blade itself and specifically those mounted close to the blade mostly just keep the blade from digging in or cutting when it is not supposed to (ie. plowing snow).

The other style is mounted to the frame of the RB and serves better to help smooth things out. This is based on the long wheelbase concept that road grader are built around.

I am posting pictures of each style so that you can see what we are talking about. I could not find quickly a picture of a RB with the wheels close, but I found one of a rake and posted that. I have seen these pictures on this site, but did not save them in my pictures folder.

Mike

 

[Ken45101]

This is "TnT"

Brian,

Thanks. I like it! My new tractor has one set of rear hydraulics and room for a second.

The hydraulic toplink would also help my problem of not being able to get the scraper blade high and low enough with the 3 pt controls.

Ken

 

[JoeL4330]

Rear Blade works fine for snow for me and is quicker and easier on the neck than my RM blower ...if only we had some snow (almost none this year) ...make sure the blade covers rear wheels, even when angled, and can offset a considerable distance in order to push back the snow (raised, like a "wing plow").

I just upgraded to a Medium Duty (but, really HD for a CUT) landpride RBT96 fully hydraulic 8' which offsets 30" and maxes out my ~45hp tractor ...but it takes a lot of remotes!

 

[Ken45101]

Oh that looks nice, Joe

How does it "max out" your tractor?

Don't complain about not enough snow this year We had "enough", but the problem was the ice that came with it. Maybe it's just that I notice it since we moved here with a long steep driveway, but I don't remember so much sleet, ice and freezing rain in years past. A 1500' steep hillside driveway (with a 150' climb on the north and east sides of the hill) sure makes one notice the ice a lot more, LOL.

Ken

Rear Blade works fine for snow for me and is quicker and easier on the neck than my RM blower ...if only we had some snow (almost none this year) ...make sure the blade covers rear wheels, even when angled, and can offset a considerable distance in order to push back the snow (raised, like a "wing plow").

I just upgraded to a Medium Duty (but, really HD for a CUT) landpride RBT96 fully hydraulic 8' which offsets 30" and maxes out my ~45hp tractor ...but it takes a lot of remotes!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Oh that looks nice, Joe
How does it "max out" your tractor?
Ken

Ken, my guess is that his 45hp tractor with a 96" rear blade is all that his tractor will handle. As in if he were to have a 108" blade he wouldn't be doing much work because his tractor would not move the blade loaded.

 

[JoeL4330]

Yep, blade fully loaded is, well, quite a load ...in addition to being all hydraulic, it has "cushion" valve to avoid damage, though. As for maxing the L4330, the blade is very heavy, not only because of the length and the way it is made, but because of the very long beam that allows the 30" offset.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yep, blade fully loaded is, well, quite a load ...in addition to being all hydraulic, it has "cushion" valve to avoid damage, though. As for maxing the L4330, the blade is very heavy, not only because of the length and the way it is made, but because of the very long beam that allows the 30" offset.

Do you know how much just the cushion valve was?

 

[JoeL4330]

I'm sorry, I don't recall ...I noticed, in my post that I should have specified the model no. RBT3596, and I looked up the cushion valve part no., which is 301-208A if that helps ...you can see the parts diagram at http://www.landpride.com/ari/attach/lp/public/manuals/301-251p.pdf

 

[Ken45101]

Yep, blade fully loaded is, well, quite a load ...in addition to being all hydraulic, it has "cushion" valve to avoid damage, though. As for maxing the L4330, the blade is very heavy, not only because of the length and the way it is made, but because of the very long beam that allows the 30" offset.

Okay, thanks. I have a 6' blade on similar horsepower and tractor power has never been an issue even though I've done some pretty good root and rock digging. But my tractor is the M series, so maybe that makes a difference.

Ken

 

[john_bud]

Do you know how much just the cushion valve was?

You would use a "double relief cushion valve" probably with the pressure set to 1200-1500 psi.

Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

Surplus center is a sponsor here. This one should work and is abut 65 bucks.


The "HH" version is higher pressure 1500-3000 psi if you want to have it a bit stouter. More chance of breaking something. I'm not sure the exact range for a blade -> maybe a downloaded spec sheet will tell you.
jb

 

[SkogenMe]

Yep, blade fully loaded is, well, quite a load ...in addition to being all hydraulic, it has "cushion" valve to avoid damage, though. As for maxing the L4330, the blade is very heavy, not only because of the length and the way it is made, but because of the very long beam that allows the 30" offset.

I am interested in your experience with this blade for dirtwork (though there has been enough snow to use it on lately!). I was trying to get info from a local dealer and was interested in the RBT3584, but he was trying to steer me to the RB3584 because the RBT would be too much for my 45HP tractor. I like all the hydraulic options and the length of the offset on the RBT which aren't available in the RB series. Yet the manual says max HP is 80 for two wheel drive and 65 for 4WD.. I know 800# is going to be a load on the 3PH but as long as the tractor can handle it that might not be bad. There are plenty of bent blades around! Any experience with "ditching" with the offset and tilt or loosening of hard soil?
Sounds like a nice unit.

 

[AKfish]

JoeL4330 provided some good information in this thread regarding his tractor/rear blade setup: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/133270-7-rear-blade-hydraulic-angle.html

Still haven't figured out how he has the 4th cylinder hooked up and operates on the rear blade, though...

Good stuff all-around.

AKfish