3 Point Turbo Saw

/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #41  
I went back and read all the posts. You really do not describe what your purpose for clearing the trees and what you are doing with them once you fell them. Your L5240 is probablly not going to pull 20"+ diameter tree from the woods. You still have to cut it up. What are you doing with the stumps. Flush cutting stumps with a chainsaw is what lead me to purchase the Tractor saw. Laying a chain saw on the ground and trying to get a flush cut is hard on the chainsaw and dulls chains fast. There are a bunch of very smart and experienced people on this forum. I have found reading this forum that stating the problem and objective can result in some very creative and unique solutions.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #42  
Do you have a winch? I think you'd be better off with a pair of professional grade saws and a 3 point hitch winch.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #43  
I went back and read all the posts. You really do not describe what your purpose for clearing the trees and what you are doing with them once you fell them. Your L5240 is probablly not going to pull 20"+ diameter tree from the woods. You still have to cut it up. What are you doing with the stumps. Flush cutting stumps with a chainsaw is what lead me to purchase the Tractor saw. Laying a chain saw on the ground and trying to get a flush cut is hard on the chainsaw and dulls chains fast. There are a bunch of very smart and experienced people on this forum. I have found reading this forum that stating the problem and objective can result in some very creative and unique solutions.

All the trees I am felling are dead and are in my pastures. I am working on clearing the pastures so I can bale hay. I don't have any trees to pull from the woods, however, you would be surprised at what the L5240 can do and the things I have asked it to do. Yes, I still have to cut them up. But once I fell them, and cut them up, I take them to my burn pile, then hook up my stump grinder and level the stump. All I am doing is trying to find a way to save some time. I have felled way over 250 trees with 2 professional grade Stihl chainsaws and ground all of the stumps. Have worn out 2 of those chainsaws and replaced all the teeth on my stump grinder. On a good day, I can do about 5 or 6 trees. Again, just trying to speed up the process and eliminate a few steps. But it doesn't sound like this is the way to go. Also sounds like my current way is the way I will need to continue.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #44  
Do you have a winch? I think you'd be better off with a pair of professional grade saws and a 3 point hitch winch.

I do have a winch but as the trees are in my pastures (dead) and not in the woods, I don't need it. If I do, I usually chain the felled tree and chain to the base of my forks and pull it out with the tractor. I do have professional grade saws. Again, as I replied in the post above, just trying to save some time and eliminate some steps. Seems when I think I make a dent, more dead trees pop up and I appear to be getting nowhere fast.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #45  
What kind of stump grinder do you have? I have a Shaver model that I couldn't be happier with.
 

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/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #47  
I have a shaver sc25. I love it!

Nice! It's amazing what these things can do, I've certainly made my money back on it, and on top of that, it's just plain fun to use.

Where do you buy your replacement teeth?
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #48  
All the trees I am felling are dead and are in my pastures. I am working on clearing the pastures so I can bale hay. I don't have any trees to pull from the woods, however, you would be surprised at what the L5240 can do and the things I have asked it to do. Yes, I still have to cut them up. But once I fell them, and cut them up, I take them to my burn pile, then hook up my stump grinder and level the stump. All I am doing is trying to find a way to save some time. I have felled way over 250 trees with 2 professional grade Stihl chainsaws and ground all of the stumps. Have worn out 2 of those chainsaws and replaced all the teeth on my stump grinder. On a good day, I can do about 5 or 6 trees. Again, just trying to speed up the process and eliminate a few steps. But it doesn't sound like this is the way to go. Also sounds like my current way is the way I will need to continue.

Your process and equipment is the most cost effective and least disruptive method of removing trees that I know. Your best way to improve productivity is to hire an assistant. You can easily double or triple your productivity with out buying equipment. Half of your equipment sets idle and you spend a lot of time getting on and off the tractor. What you are doing is dangerous and it would be good to have someone around to give first aid and call for help. You might contact the FFA or local high school and see if there is a work study program.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #49  
Nice! It's amazing what these things can do, I've certainly made my money back on it, and on top of that, it's just plain fun to use.

Where do you buy your replacement teeth?

I get them from my local Kubota dealer. That is who I bought the grinder from.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #50  
Your process and equipment is the most cost effective and least disruptive method of removing trees that I know. Your best way to improve productivity is to hire an assistant. You can easily double or triple your productivity with out buying equipment. Half of your equipment sets idle and you spend a lot of time getting on and off the tractor. What you are doing is dangerous and it would be good to have someone around to give first aid and call for help. You might contact the FFA or local high school and see if there is a work study program.

I agree. I actually do have a college student who comes to help me part time. Unfortunately, my insurance won't allow me to have anyone working who is under 18. As it is, I roll my bucket, place it on the tree with some pressure and start chainsawing. At the first "crack," I hop back in the tractor, push it over, cut it in 8' lengths and commence to spend the next hour or so picking up the pieces. Long and tedious process, even with 2 of us.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #51  
It is off subject but I just have to comment. One of the main problems with our country 14-18 year old kids cannot find jobs, cannot find a way of earning money. Time and energy with nothing constructive to do, and we wonder why they join gangs, steal, and general get into trouble. You have a need, money, and cannot hire them. They could gain experinece working with equipment, importance of working safely. and have a work reference.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #52  
It is off subject but I just have to comment. One of the main problems with our country 14-18 year old kids cannot find jobs, cannot find a way of earning money. Time and energy with nothing constructive to do, and we wonder why they join gangs, steal, and general get into trouble. You have a need, money, and cannot hire them. They could gain experinece working with equipment, importance of working safely. and have a work reference.

No argument here. I completely agree with you. I had a 16 y/o h.s. student who is in FFA, lives on a ranch and has all the experience I wanted when I was looking to hire someone, but my hands were tied. If he was just going to mow my yard it would be a different story, but the nature of the work out here and the equipment involved threw my insurance agent into a mini-tantrum. Fortunately, he will be 18 in October, is staying in town to go to college at Texas ATM and will be coming to work for me on his 18th birthday. My current college student will be graduating so it is quite timely.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #53  
Seems like a good way to crush a perfectly good tractor? A friend did the same thing, but he somehow got his homeowners coverage to cover the $7k it cost to repair the tractor and replace his loader.

I have found that nothing works better than properly notching and back cutting to leave a proper hinge. A few different sized plastic wedges and your all set for directional felling.

The majority of the time I place a small stick in the ground where I want the tip of the tree to land. It's amazing how many times you can get within 10' of the "target".
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #54  
Seems like a good way to crush a perfectly good tractor? A friend did the same thing, but he somehow got his homeowners coverage to cover the $7k it cost to repair the tractor and replace his loader.

I have found that nothing works better than properly notching and back cutting to leave a proper hinge. A few different sized plastic wedges and your all set for directional felling.

The majority of the time I place a small stick in the ground where I want the tip of the tree to land. It's amazing how many times you can get within 10' of the "target".

It's worked well for the better part of 6 years and never come close. I do notch.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #55  
I have a shaver sc25. I love it!

Have you figured out how to use the stand on your SC25, when not in use? Seems any way I position the thing, it wants to slump over at some crazy angle -- making it difficult to re-attach to the hitch.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #56  
Have you figured out how to use the stand on your SC25, when not in use? Seems any way I position the thing, it wants to slump over at some crazy angle -- making it difficult to re-attach to the hitch.

Yes, I use a 2x4 or a block of some sort and set the grind wheel down on it. Everything levels.
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #57  
Bought the LT3200 TurboSaw, and it fit right up to my iMatch with very little re-rigging of the lower and upper connection bushings.
Was hesitant about the HP of the JD 4300 to power this attachment but after cutting over 50 spruce stumps today, the HP is just fine.
An awesome fit, finish, and robust piece of equipment..
Varying the pitch or angle of the sawblade using the hydraulic top arm is a convenient feature, but not a requirement.

Tackling standing spruce trees that are 30-40' tall and in the 10-12" diameter works well.. notch out on the tractor side and don't cut all the way through, allowing the push bar to topple the tree.

Thanks to a TBN member for chatting about his experience with the TS. One day use, but believe its a winner.
 

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/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #58  
Here is a video of taking out a 10" spruce tree.. am very happy with this attachment. Have a couple dozen or more spruce out, and when weather cools a bit, there will be many more.
Having stumps off at ground level (surprising how big the root of a 10" tree is at ground level) is a real bonus.
TurboSaw thinning 9" Spruce tree - YouTube
 
/ 3 Point Turbo Saw #60  
Bought the LT3200 TurboSaw, and it fit right up to my iMatch with very little re-rigging of the lower and upper connection bushings.
Was hesitant about the HP of the JD 4300 to power this attachment but after cutting over 50 spruce stumps today, the HP is just fine.
An awesome fit, finish, and robust piece of equipment..
Varying the pitch or angle of the sawblade using the hydraulic top arm is a convenient feature, but not a requirement.

Tackling standing spruce trees that are 30-40' tall and in the 10-12" diameter works well.. notch out on the tractor side and don't cut all the way through, allowing the push bar to topple the tree.

Thanks to a TBN member for chatting about his experience with the TS. One day use, but believe its a winner.

We need more action pics :D That's a great setup. It's nice to hear the power is sufficient as well. What do you have for PTO hp?
 
 

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