LazySusanFarms
Silver Member
I bought the saw without the grapple from DFM. Works great with no problems. Biggest tree so far is a 12 inch locust. Took two swipes
3 Point Turbo Saw
- Thread starter Rtwilson
- Start date
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Piston
Elite Member
LazySusanFarms said:
Did you post some videos on YouTube? I recognize those pics. If so, thanks for doing that!
LazySusanFarms
Silver Member
My wife and I use a system where we trade off cutting them down while the other drags them to the burn/chipper pile with an ATV. Keeps the tractor busy at all times so the cutting goes fast. The only problem I have had is with trees that have very long drooping limbs, like locust because the limbs hit me first before I can get the saw on them. This only happens with the biggest trees though. Just takes a little practice. Anything too big to drag off by the ATV gets cut in half with a chain saw first. I do keep my bucket on the front for balance though. I probably have 500 - 700 more cedars to cut down.
Tanamera
New member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2008
- Messages
- 16
- Location
- Gordonville, Texas
- Tractor
- 2008 Kubota MX5100 (Gear) LA 844 FEL, 1952 Ford 8N, 1988 John Deere 750B Crawler Dozer
I have cut hundreds of Red Cedars ranging from 3" to 20". The larger trees need to be approached from two or three angles and then I sometimes have to push them over with the FEL. You can certainly cut trees with a chainsaw, but not nearly as quickly and, more importantly, not below ground level as the Turbo Saw lets you do. You "grind" the stumps of larger trees with no problem. I have also cut Persimmons, Cork Elm, Black Willows, Hackberry, and Oaks too. I can do a lot of damage in a short period of time and I am using ith with a MX5100 Gear Tractor. An HST would make it even faster. I have ordered a WR Long Grapple for my FEL so I will soon have the total package.
I spent the first five years using chainsaws. I can clear in one day what it used to take me a month of weekends to do.
I spent the first five years using chainsaws. I can clear in one day what it used to take me a month of weekends to do.
Tanamera
New member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2008
- Messages
- 16
- Location
- Gordonville, Texas
- Tractor
- 2008 Kubota MX5100 (Gear) LA 844 FEL, 1952 Ford 8N, 1988 John Deere 750B Crawler Dozer
Piston,
I ordered my WR Long Grapple today. Thanks for all your input. What a great resource you have been.
I ordered my WR Long Grapple today. Thanks for all your input. What a great resource you have been.
Piston
Elite Member
EXCELLENT! I'm glad to hear. The only regret you'll have is not ordering it sooner :thumbsup:
That is gonna be deadly combination for those cedars now!
Piston
Elite Member
It looks there is another option (from Brown Manufacturing) for the 3 point tree saw now....
Looks very similar to the Turbo Saw. Brown TreeSaw | New Product | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909
Looks very similar to the Turbo Saw. Brown TreeSaw | New Product | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909
Piston
Elite Member
It looks there is another option (from Brown Manufacturing) for the 3 point tree saw now....
Looks very similar to the Turbo Saw. Brown TreeSaw | New Product | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909
Looks very similar to the Turbo Saw. Brown TreeSaw | New Product | Brown Manufacturing | 800-633-8909
HTBrooks
New member
I think either the grapple or if you elect not to have the grapple (it is an option), there is a push bar on the back.
What is the largest tree that can safely be cut? I see another post above that a larger tree can be cut in 2 or 3 passes but does that not leave the tree semi-teetering when pulling out and lining up for another pass on another side of the tree?
I am considering purchasing one but most of my trees are 18 - 24" in diameter. Some a little larger.
What is the largest tree that can safely be cut? I see another post above that a larger tree can be cut in 2 or 3 passes but does that not leave the tree semi-teetering when pulling out and lining up for another pass on another side of the tree?
I am considering purchasing one but most of my trees are 18 - 24" in diameter. Some a little larger.
Piston
Elite Member
Yup, it's old, but still useful!
HT Brooks,
I personally wouldn't attempt to cut a tree that big with a Turbo Saw, but I've never used one either.
They really aren't even designed to cut that large, they are meant for quick cutting of smaller diameter trees.
Ideally I'd like a large Brown Tree Cutter, but the Turbo Saw seems like it would be able to be effective on my size tractor, whereas the tree cutter wouldn't be.
Trees that large should be properly dropped using a chainsaw and proper techniques.
What size tractor would you be using it on?
HT Brooks,
I personally wouldn't attempt to cut a tree that big with a Turbo Saw, but I've never used one either.
They really aren't even designed to cut that large, they are meant for quick cutting of smaller diameter trees.
Ideally I'd like a large Brown Tree Cutter, but the Turbo Saw seems like it would be able to be effective on my size tractor, whereas the tree cutter wouldn't be.
Trees that large should be properly dropped using a chainsaw and proper techniques.
What size tractor would you be using it on?
HTBrooks
New member
Kubota L5240HST.
Piston
Elite Member
I personally don't have any experience with these tree saws, so keep that in mind. I'll just give a "synopsis" of what I've read on here, found from other online research (on the internet, so you know it's true 
) and speaking to the manufactures. I've also been in touch with other members by private message and they've given me their thoughts.
For your tractor (very similar to mine but with more PTO hp) the tree saw would work very well. It seems like most are saying that for any trees under 8" it will cut them pretty much as fast as you want to back up. Anything over that, starts getting a little slower. Even a larger 70hp tractor could use more power when cutting into a large tree. If you have HST transmission you will be able to creep into the cut as slow as needed if it's a larger tree.
If you have very hilly terrain, or very rocky areas, (which I'm assuming you have neither in TX) then that could pose a complication to the overall efficiency of the saw.
If you have rear remote hydraulics, you can get the grapple version which is very useful to apply pressure to the tree as it is about to go over, decreasing the chances of dropping a tree on the tractor. Although the website says that the grapple is very useful for hauling the trees away after you cut them, it seems like it's not as practical as they make it seem, unless they are smaller, bushier trees. I personally wouldn't use it for that, since I have a front end loader grapple.
Honestly though, if most of your trees are 18" plus, then I do NOT think that a tree saw on a relatively small tractor is even remotely close to resembling a good idea.
) and speaking to the manufactures. I've also been in touch with other members by private message and they've given me their thoughts. For your tractor (very similar to mine but with more PTO hp) the tree saw would work very well. It seems like most are saying that for any trees under 8" it will cut them pretty much as fast as you want to back up. Anything over that, starts getting a little slower. Even a larger 70hp tractor could use more power when cutting into a large tree. If you have HST transmission you will be able to creep into the cut as slow as needed if it's a larger tree.
If you have very hilly terrain, or very rocky areas, (which I'm assuming you have neither in TX) then that could pose a complication to the overall efficiency of the saw.
If you have rear remote hydraulics, you can get the grapple version which is very useful to apply pressure to the tree as it is about to go over, decreasing the chances of dropping a tree on the tractor. Although the website says that the grapple is very useful for hauling the trees away after you cut them, it seems like it's not as practical as they make it seem, unless they are smaller, bushier trees. I personally wouldn't use it for that, since I have a front end loader grapple.
Honestly though, if most of your trees are 18" plus, then I do NOT think that a tree saw on a relatively small tractor is even remotely close to resembling a good idea.
HTBrooks
New member
I personally don't have any experience with these tree saws, so keep that in mind. I'll just give a "synopsis" of what I've read on here, found from other online research (on the internet, so you know it's true
For your tractor (very similar to mine but with more PTO hp) the tree saw would work very well. It seems like most are saying that for any trees under 8" it will cut them pretty much as fast as you want to back up. Anything over that, starts getting a little slower. Even a larger 70hp tractor could use more power when cutting into a large tree. If you have HST transmission you will be able to creep into the cut as slow as needed if it's a larger tree.
If you have very hilly terrain, or very rocky areas, (which I'm assuming you have neither in TX) then that could pose a complication to the overall efficiency of the saw.
If you have rear remote hydraulics, you can get the grapple version which is very useful to apply pressure to the tree as it is about to go over, decreasing the chances of dropping a tree on the tractor. Although the website says that the grapple is very useful for hauling the trees away after you cut them, it seems like it's not as practical as they make it seem, unless they are smaller, bushier trees. I personally wouldn't use it for that, since I have a front end loader grapple.
Honestly though, if most of your trees are 18" plus, then I do NOT think that a tree saw on a relatively small tractor is even remotely close to resembling a good idea.
I do see that the saw has a push bar on the back if you elect not to get the grapple. I agree that the chainsaw on bigger trees is probably the way to go. I have so many I'm trying to clear. I've owned my place for 6 years now...3 chainsaws, over 250 trees and too many chains to count lol, I'm just looking for a quicker, more efficient option. I would have it timbered but the mills around here aren't looking for what I have.
Piston
Elite Member
Do you have a lot of smaller trees as well?
HTBrooks
New member
Anywhere from 8" to 24" diameter. Average probably about 12-16".
Piston
Elite Member
I think you need to stick with some heavy equipment, certainly not the tree saw.
My Gym
Bronze Member
I have owned a DFM turbo saw for 2 years and have used it on a JD 3038E. It is great for 8-10" diameter trees and smaller. Using it on large intact trees is DANGEROUS. A tractor based saw does not provide protection from falling trees. With a tractor saw, chainsaw the tree and use the tractor saw to deal with the stump. Using a tractor saw on large trees is like cutting a large tree with a chainsaw and giving up the ability to move away quickly when something goes wrong. If you are cutting a large number of large 12" an up, look at the skid steer based saws. Skid steer operator cages are built to protect from large heavy things hitting them and offers much greater operator protection. The flexability of the saw mounting system, operator protection, manuverability, and cutting reach is much better suited for the larger trees. I started chain sawing the larger trees when 12" diameter 30' tall tree fell on my tractor. The ROP saved me from serious injury. There was enough force to break the lens on the ROP light.
HTBrooks
New member
Well, thanks for all the info. Doesn't look like I will be buying one. Just a few new chainsaws and a ton of chains. Certainly can't afford to go spend a fortune on a skid steer and attachment. I know what those cost.
