3 point receiver hitch idea's wanted.

[Suz]

I'm looking for some ideas on how to build a 2 inch receiver hitch for my 9N Ford's 3 point that will not sway back and forth without the use of the sway bars and will still allow the use of the hydraulic lift when not using the hitch to tow something. I also want the hitch to stay level when the hydraulics are in "neutral".
When I was a kid we had a mower that had a chain that looped over the top link bar to hold the mower at the 'working" or "traveling" height. I could incorporate the same method to hold my hitch.
Anyone make something like this who would like to share pictures?

 

[Just Bill]

Hello
There is a few here.
eBay ? Hitches and items on eBay.com. Find IT on eBay.

 

[massey driver]

I don't have any picture of what we did with a 8n. but we did this with two chains.What we had was a new 3pth sickle mower that we mounted onto the tractor and in order for us to use it in a certain postion we installed a chain onto each of the 3pth arm pins up to the top link.This was when we let the 3pth down it would only go down as far as we needed it to plus stablizing it at the same time.When we lifited it up it would lift up and be ready for trabsport or lifting over ant hills etc;Not sure if this will help with what your wanting to do.Larry.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I'm looking for some ideas on how to build a 2 inch receiver hitch for my 9N Ford's 3 point that will not sway back and forth without the use of the sway bars and will still allow the use of the hydraulic lift when not using the hitch to tow something. I also want the hitch to stay level when the hydraulics are in "neutral".
When I was a kid we had a mower that had a chain that looped over the top link bar to hold the mower at the 'working" or "traveling" height. I could incorporate the same method to hold my hitch.
Anyone make something like this who would like to share pictures?

I would not use the 3 point without the sway bars. We had a guy get killed just 20 miles from me on a 8N last summer when his Bush Hog walked up the right rear tire and folded over on the operator. He was working on road ditches and a passer by found the tractor running and stuck with the bush hog on him and deceased. The findings was he was operating without the sway bars in place. Made me go out and put them back on my Old Ford.

Anyway here is mine I made for $10 using a old hitch off a Ford Explorer.


Chris

 

[Suz]

I would not use the 3 point without the sway bars. We had a guy get killed just 20 miles from me on a 8N last summer when his Bush Hog walked up the right rear tire and folded over on the operator. He was working on road ditches and a passer by found the tractor running and stuck with the bush hog on him and deceased. The findings was he was operating without the sway bars in place. Made me go out and put them back on my Old Ford.

Anyway here is mine I made for $10 using a old hitch off a Ford Explorer.


Chris

Chris, the guy who got killed must not have had the sway chains attacthed either. These would prevent the attachment from swinging into the tires.
But, the bars I'm talking about are illustrated very well on this site
Vintage Ford tractors: the ultimate ... - Google Books
(I only wish this was my tractor!! )
But, if you have the two adjustable sway bars that run from the lower llink to the attachment behind the seat you cannot use the 3 point lift without breaking the bars. (DAMHIKT)

The reason I want to make this hitch is while trying to back the woodsplitter up in the woods, the hitch will swing sideways and this makes it very hard to manuver in tight places. Then after the splitter moved into the working area, I want to use the 3 point to skid logs and I don't want to go through all the bother of putting the sway bars on and off.

Everyone likes pictures so here is what I'm talking about

Our splitter has a mind of it's own when it comes to backing the thing up and when the drawbar swings to the side, or goes up, it makes it that much harder to back the rig up.

 

[GE222]

Your question was somewhat confusing. I couldn't figure out if you wanted the receiver hitch to raise also.

If you wanted a fixed drawbar, there a several aftermarket drawbar kits available for the 9N, 2N, 8N series. They simply bolt to the underside of the rear end. Their cost is around $120, last time I looked. You could weld the receiver hitch to the drawbar.

This would still allow full independent use of the 3-point.

If the receiver needs to be raised, then get one of the 3-point receivers as previously mentioned, and be sure to use the sway chains and bars.

Here is a picture of the kit. I had one on my 8N. Much better than the 3-point for towing.

 

[beenthere]

GE222
Glad you posted that, as it is what I was getting ready to suggest.

Or put the grill cage on the front that has the trailer hitch on it, and "drive" the splitter where it needs to be.

 

[GE222]

Beenthere,
That is also a great idea. Makes it a whole lot easier to place a trailer.

 

[kebo]

Here's the one I built. I can post better pictures of it want to see more detail.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

The reason I want to make this hitch is while trying to back the woodsplitter up in the woods, the hitch will swing sideways and this makes it very hard to manuver in tight places. Then after the splitter moved into the working area, I want to use the 3 point to skid logs and I don't want to go through all the bother of putting the sway bars on and off.

You need to shorten your sway chains.

Look at a smaller compact tractor if you can. Or look at the picture Kebo posted. There are chains with a turnbuckle that go from the 3 pt. back to a point along the same line created by the pin where the 3 pt. lift arm hooks to the tractor. This allows the lift arm to raise and lower freely, but keeps the 3 pt. from moving side to side.

I accomplished the same thing as a retrofit by running a turnbuckle from the right lift arm back to the left pin and visa versa. This X created the triangulation needed to keep the hitch from swaying, but allowed free range of motion without buckling or binding.

 

[JB4310]

I have the flex point, I had to install the break away slots and a limiter hook to prevent the 3 pt from over raising with negative tongue weight due to dumping trailer.

JB,

 

[rdbrumfield]

I didn't read all the posts. There is a sway brace you can get that works well. All it is is an angle iron that is bolted on with the fender bolts. A hole to accept a pin, threaded on one end and ready for a bar on the other so a lynch pin can be dropped in to secure it. The bar then extends back to the drawbar or whatever you have hooked to the lift arms. The pivot at the fender is right across from the pivot of the lift arms. Put one on each side as they will work in unison with the lift links and keep it from swaying. I have these on my fergy.

 

[Suz]

You need to shorten your sway chains.

I accomplished the same thing as a retrofit by running a turnbuckle from the right lift arm back to the left pin and visa versa. This X created the triangulation needed to keep the hitch from swaying, but allowed free range of motion without buckling or binding.

I guess I always "assumed" that the sway chains would tighten up when I lifted the 3 point to the full upward travel and never tried it. I'll have to try the crossed chain option to see how that works.

To the others who posted thanks for all the ideas. As for putting a hitch on the front I thought of that also. I could just raise the loader and forks over the splitter when I want to move it around. It would be an easy project to weld a square tube to the loader frame to use as a receiver.

As to why/what questions we use the tractor to pull the logs to a working area. I like to use a "short chain" and lift the butt end of the log to prevent it from digging into the ground and also it adds some weight to the back end of the tractor. Then I use the loader/forks to pile the logs. (The pile in the picture is pretty small compared to some of our cutting areas.)
Being the lazy sort I don't want to put the sway bars on the drawbar every time I want to move the splitter. I've also thought of the solid drawbar kit also, but then I have that sticking out beyond the 3 point which would surely be wrecked by the logs. Sometimes I even push the drawbar under the log to pull and then that solid drawbar would definitely be in the way.

 

[CharlieR]

Here's what my dealer set me up with for not much money.
The draw bar happens to be the 20" cat 1 size (should have gotten the 27" one) that cost less.
The receiver is one that bolts onto a truck bumper.
The locking device is one of several types that keep the draw bar from rotating.

 

[beenthere]

.......... I've also thought of the solid drawbar kit also, but then I have that sticking out beyond the 3 point which would surely be wrecked by the logs. Sometimes I even push the drawbar under the log to pull and then that solid drawbar would definitely be in the way.

The fixed drawbar does not stick out beyond the 3 pt. and is definitely NOT in the way. And if anything, it adds protection to your PTO stub and will not be wrecked by the logs.

You can have your cake and eat it too.

Besides, the way you pull logs in, you should have something other than the 3pt drawbar, and more like a quick hitch on the 3 point for dragging in logs.

Something like this.