2555 running cold

[IH782]

I have noticed that most people with the 2555 say the engine runs cold. One thing to note is that EGR valves love to soot up if the tractor is not run to operating temp or left idling for extended periods. If this happens on the 2555 you will get a MIL light and code P049D: Exhaust Gas Recirculation 'A' Control Position Exceeded Learning Limit.

 

[jmh1783]

I've been a bit perplexed by the heater light. As mentioned it does seem to come on even when the engine is hot if you restart. I figured it was just on a dumb timer. Depending on the temp I'll give it some time before trying to start cold. When hot I just wait for 10 seconds for the "boot up" to complete. As I mentioned before after the computer update, the temp gauge does seem to rise much more quickly. I haven't tried touching the block however.

 

[Glrret]

I ran my 2555 this past weekend for 2 hours at PTO speed powering my wood chipper. When I got done I idled the engine down for about 2 or 3 minutes then turned it off. Right away I opened the hood, removed the side panel and put my hand on the radiator... it was cold, I could have left my hand there indefinably, all the hoses, for both the coolant and hydraulics were cold, not cold like over night cold, but not warm either.

So on Monday I cut 2 peaces of thin plastic sheet like shower wall sheet, one for the coolant radiator and the other for the hydraulic radiator, I cut a 7 inch hole in the center of both and attached them to the radiator screens. I then went back out and used the chipper at the same PTO speed and time. The results were that the engine ran much warmer but them again not what I would consider normal temp. The gauge was just a fraction below normal. I was able to hold my hand on the coolant radiator for a few seconds without any burning sensations. However my cab heater was not blowing warm air.... not hot air but warm.

 

[JerryK]

Round hole or square hole....??? I was going to make one for mine this weekend and was thinking 10" round centered on the fan, place just forward of the radiator screen. Thinking of using blaze orange corrugated plastic [ cardboard like stuff ].. so maybe I can remember to remove it.

 

[Glrret]

I made a 7 inch round hole centered on the fan

 

[JerryK]

Thanks, I am going to start small and work up... now that I look at it, I might put it right in front of the radiator behind the debris screen so it can't just suck around the screen perimeter. [ I'm retired, I have time to putter, I mean do important investigative research.. ]

 

[JerryK]

Used some foam sign board from the Wally, little over three dollars with Michigan tax. ' My ' dimensions were 18 3/4" wide by 19 3/8" to inside the foam the screen sets against right up against the aluminum radiator core. I put a 12" hole centered 9" up from the bottom, which centers it on the fan. The stock radiator area is about 363 square inches, and this cuts the area down to about 113 square inches. The foam should be soft enough that it will not harm the aluminum core structure. Anywhilst, I give it a try if and when we get some snow...

 

[Glrret]

I think your hole is going to be to large. I made a 7 inch hole and I'm seeing about 2/3rds of the results I wanted.

 

[JerryK]

Might be, can't tell until I get some snow to work it. If your 7" hole is forward of the screen, the fan can suck a lot of air around in behind the screen... plus crud... Putting it against the radiator corralled by the foam [ factory installed to help seal the screen ] pretty much keeps air only being able to go thru the center hole, and keeps the screen in play to stop bigger leaves/chaft/etc. It's all theory at this point... We just have to keep at it and find a solution.

 

[jb1390]

I ran my 2555 this past weekend for 2 hours at PTO speed powering my wood chipper. When I got done I idled the engine down for about 2 or 3 minutes then turned it off. Right away I opened the hood, removed the side panel and put my hand on the radiator... it was cold, I could have left my hand there indefinably, all the hoses, for both the coolant and hydraulics were cold, not cold like over night cold, but not warm either.

So on Monday I cut 2 peaces of thin plastic sheet like shower wall sheet, one for the coolant radiator and the other for the hydraulic radiator, I cut a 7 inch hole in the center of both and attached them to the radiator screens. I then went back out and used the chipper at the same PTO speed and time. The results were that the engine ran much warmer but them again not what I would consider normal temp. The gauge was just a fraction below normal. I was able to hold my hand on the coolant radiator for a few seconds without any burning sensations. However my cab heater was not blowing warm air.... not hot air but warm.

I'm very curious the actual temperature of the coolant. Do you have a meter with a thermocouple, that you could install in the upper radiator hose? When I did that on my 3550, the temp was very low - until I installed the restrictor in the EGR coolant bleed hose. I know the engines are a bit different between these models, but I'm curious if the engine is ever getting up to temp.