2555 running cold

Glrret · Nov 1, 2016

I looked all over under the hood and followed the heater lines from the block and water pump to the place where they enter the cab frame.... No valves.

JerryK · Nov 1, 2016

The valve for the cab heater is just forward/above the heater controls on the right side of the cab. It is worked by a cable by the heat/cold knob. Valve is just before the coolant enters the heater coils. Need to take the five 8mm bolts out of the top [ 2 right, 2 left, and one center rear. Remove the two phillips screws holding the sun roof door latch, and then the 10 grey rivets around the sun roof opening. Lift top up, and there she be..... Common for diesels with big cooling systems to run a little cool if you don't work them. I have a slip in sheet of sign plastic I put right in front of my Dodge Cummins when she gets real cold.

Boomer07 · Nov 1, 2016

Check where the lines going up into cab. Could also be an air bubble that worked it's way to the heater core, in which case you would most likely have to do what JerryK suggests and get at the heater core and bleed off the air. Or let the dealer do it.

JerryK · Nov 2, 2016

A missing, opening at too low a temp, or stuck open thermostat will cause this, too. But you have to realize that diesels do not make a lot of waste heat like a gas motor unless worked some. Plus the block walls, usually more oil to heat up, radiator/etc is usually built a lot more heavy duty than a gas motor... lots to heat up. You loose some intercooler efficiency by blocking a portion of the airflow, but you gain system heat. You might be able to add an aftermarket thermal fan to it....

jmh1783 · Nov 2, 2016

Hi Glrret. Did your 2555 have the throttle issue where after getting warm it wouldn't fully throttle up? The reason I ask is the computer update that fixed that also changed the behavior of the thermostat. Before I had the issue the temp gauge took a very long time to rise to midway. At a guess 20 or 30 minutes. Now it comes up much faster. It hasn't gotten really cold here but the behavior seems to still apply in the 40s. I can't say what will happen when it goes below freezing. You might want to see your dealer.

melroebobcat · Nov 4, 2016

you have to get your ecu updated, also the Exhausts Recirculation Valve will have to be replaced more then likely or cleaned. I have also taken apart the egr valves and inspected them. the process is to run tractor at a higher Load And take off egr valve several times. Take it to your dealer. Or ask if they can try to file a special claim for pickup delivery since the issue should have been addressed when it was at the dealer to begin with

JerryK · Nov 4, 2016

Is there any way to use a OBDII scanner and find out what software/version your ECM/ECU is currently running....????? That would be a good start.

Glrret · Nov 4, 2016

My tractor did go back to the dealer this past spring for its 50 hour service. At that time they did do a software upgrade to it. After the upgrade it did seem to run better (not smoking as much) and the temp gauge did reach the normal operation level on the gauge. But the tractor still runs cold. Its like the software programming it telling the temp gauge to register normal even thought the engine is not warm.
When the gauge is reading normal operating temp I can still put my hand on the block and its NOT hot, its warm and you wouldn't want to keep you hand there for a long time, but its not like it should be.

To prove my point.... I will be doing some wood chipping with my WoodMaxx 9900 and I'l have the motor at PTO speed for 30 to 45 minutes, the gauge will say normal but the heater air is still barely luke warm.

And another point is the glow plug light... even if I have been running the tractor hard for hours, if I turn the motor off for even 1 minute, when I turn the key back on the glow plug light makes me wait 90 to 120 seconds before I can start it. then after I start it the glow plug light comes on for another 2 minutes.

Does anyone else have a 2555 that acts like this?

JerryK · Nov 7, 2016

The 2555 has a grid heater and not glow plugs [ I know, picky... picky ]. It is located on the top left of the motor right where the big stainless tube comes from the intercooler. You will see a couple big wires going to that area, it draws 50 amps or so. You do not have to wait more than about 10 seconds for all the computers to get up and running, then you can go ahead and crank her. She should start right up. Both of my Mahindras with the grid heater fire right up, not finicky at all. You might want to run the grid heater longer when it's real cold, but it is a learning process. The grid heater cycle time is probably not dependent on motor temperature, it probably just cycles for X seconds every time you turn the key to ON... [ just a guess ]...

IH782 · Nov 7, 2016

Glrret said:
And another point is the glow plug light... even if I have been running the tractor hard for hours, if I turn the motor off for even 1 minute, when I turn the key back on the glow plug light makes me wait 90 to 120 seconds before I can start it. then after I start it the glow plug light comes on for another 2 minutes.

Does anyone else have a 2555 that acts like this?

On the 2555, Mahindra found that by leaving the grid heater on after the engine is running reduces emissions, particularly blue smoke on startup. If the engine is warm you do not have to let it cycle before you start it.