2022 Outlander Max 6x6

[plastikosmd]

Just throttle it up though all rpm range when mapping torque and hp curves while making adjustments.

Full pull to see max hp but torque has already dropped off at much lower rpm (as one would expect for it at over 9 liters.) Even torque at 850 rpm idle was surprising.

Ideal would be a flat torque line though all rpm ranges but that isn’t realistic, it drops off=hence the curve

As to your throttle position point. I guess I’m not sure if we are making the same point in different ways.

My only point is that judging the force on individual components by throttle position when plowing vs towing isn’t a good way to encapsulate your failure margin.

Impact or shock loads, dynamic weight transfer (lifting plow/snow loads) and more/less force on rear vs front drives, turning asymmetric weight/force with loads or impacts etc.

It isn’t surprising that it broke plowing at less throttle or even driving/turning with those pods.

It seems to be a lot to expect from that front end I'm sure the rear is more robust for weighted pulling (that would offload the front)

 

[plastikosmd]

(Ps, arlya, I hope u get it fixed and it holds up)
It appears the “sleeves” also slide off? If so, that makes mating up a custom shaft a lot easier

 

[ArlyA]

Not sure if people are more interested the stress of plowing virs grooming or the actual repair. I got this responce on the can-am forum. I like the idea.
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It's using the rigid boot on both ends. Ostacruiser gets credit for the "mod", but it's fairly well-known know afair.

The accordion boots allow that shaft to move ever so slightly, sliding between the through shaft and the front diff input. When you're really torquing the motor, it can allow for just enough slack for that front shaft to pop out, and you get what you've got. Solid motor mounts and double-rigid-booting the front shaft is the cure.

 

[ruffdog]

Not sure if people are more interested the stress of plowing virs grooming or the actual repair. I got this responce on the can-am forum. I like the idea.
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It's using the rigid boot on both ends. Ostacruiser gets credit for the "mod", but it's fairly well-known know afair.

The accordion boots allow that shaft to move ever so slightly, sliding between the through shaft and the front diff input. When you're really torquing the motor, it can allow for just enough slack for that front shaft to pop out, and you get what you've got. Solid motor mounts and double-rigid-booting the front shaft is the cure.

I wonder if under torque, the splines allow the shaft to walk it's way out of the sleeve? So, with your constant pulling the groomer then gives the shaft plenty of time for this issue to happen.? I then see where those HD boots would restrict the shaft's movement.

 

[ArlyA]

I wonder if under torque, the splines allow the shaft to walk it's way out of the sleeve? So, with your constant pulling the groomer then gives the shaft plenty of time for this issue to happen.? I then see where those HD boots would restrict the shaft's movement.

Well that pretty much is what the poster states.

 

[ArlyA]

I'm searching for this "double-rigid-booting" the poster mentions is the fix. I now have high confidence this can be fixed.

 

[ruffdog]

I'm searching for this "double-rigid-booting" the poster mentions is the fix. I now have high confidence this can be fixed.

See first video...post 155

 

[ArlyA]

See first video...post 155

I watched the video in hopes of seeing part numbers. Maybe I missed them? I did ask on the can-am forum for parts numbers. I hope to get these boots switched out before it pops out again!

 

[jjeff]

Done beating a dead horse looking for reasons and solutions why the front driveshaft splines failed but this modification to groomer coupler probably won't hurt especially reducing hard impacts when starting and stopping. Made this pin coupler with junk I had lying around 15 yrs ago for a trailer to pull behind a snowmobile yes it's crude, but works better than I imagined. Haven't snapped an non reinforced bumper on a snowmobile since. Eliminated hard impacts when starting and stopping. I've seen similar with folks using hockey pucks unsure of results (I use those for hockey only lol) anyways used a medium duty spring I cut in half welded a washer to shaft midway and stoppers on both ends. I suppose if I had a groomer, I'd use a heavier spring, thicker metal, and weld it all up with 7018 from the get go.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Done beating a dead horse looking for reasons and solutions why the front driveshaft splines failed but this modification to groomer coupler probably won't hurt especially reducing hard impacts when starting and stopping. Made this pin coupler with junk I had lying around 15 yrs ago for a trailer to pull behind a snowmobile yes it's crude, but works better than I imagined.

I started making a version of hitches similar to that back in the 70's, using chevy valve springs for the springs.

It's the only way we could get a load going, up in the Alaskan mountains.

SR