1979 John deere 301a not going into forward

[Mach1mike]

tractor details
single stage clutch
PTO
REVERSER
3pt hitch

ok, I bought the tractor 3 weeks ago the guy told me the charge pump was bad, within an hour I concluded the clutch was bad. He said, the tractor had just stopped moving and the hydro's had died. he had already changed the front hydro pump and all of the filters. when I replaced the clutch and started the tractor back up, I regained the use of the Hydro's but not the trans (at all) the next night I was able to hook a pressure gauge to the bottom of the reverser valve, the gauge read 150lbs in reverse and neutral (the strange part is, now reverse started working) the gauge went to 24lbs or so in forward. I am looking to verify my suspisions. possibilty A) cracked supply/return line or failed seal to forwared clutch pack? I guess my real questions are because this seems to be a "pressure thing" my clutch pack should be ok? and since I removed the 2 inspection ports on top the reverser valve w/ the tractor running ((not recommended :laughing (I had already returned the gauge I had borrowed)when shifting into forward or reverse there was plenty of pressure they both shot to the celling of my garage, lesson learned! lol. that being said, since there is obviosly pressure being sent to the forward clutch pack, the failure has to be between the valve and clutch pack or the return line, correct?









on a side note: I found it very frustrating that hardly anyone ever posted how they resolved there similar issues.

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to the hands-on school for JD closed-center hyd's with reverser. I think you need to buy you a 300 psi gauge from Surplus center for about $15. Have you checked the reverser valve control linkage for loose/sheared pins?

 

[Mach1mike]

lol I will be picking another gauge up tonight.. all of the linkage is tight and working.thx

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The forward clutch is weak when hot on our 1983 JD backhoe. I expect it is the seals in it but one guy with the issue found one on the linkage pins worn through so Tx Jim post is right on. Best of luck. Did the seller mention the forward clutch being weak for years before the loss of forward motion?

 

[Mach1mike]

I had also read about the linkage and the pins, prior to starting the "project" so I new to check them. no, there was no mention of a weak clutch. he said they were loading sand last winter and the machine just went limp.

 

[Mach1mike]

by the way it runs great in reverse. The neighbors think I'm nuts! lol

 

[jd110]

Seems like the most likely problem area would be the sealing rings for the forward clutch. That is what I have found most often. Check key #2 and 2a in drawing. Also the bushing the seal rings ride in wears often also. Key#1. While the clutch pack is out, replace seals #7 & 9 also. This clutch pack is accessed from the same split you had apart for the main clutch. If any of the oil lines need replaced, that is done at the split between clutch housing and trans housing.

 

[Mach1mike]

So once I open the clutch pack housing should that be a wet or dry area? I am assuming dry unless the seals are bad. Is there any way to check the tubes w/o disassembling the trans? Air maybe?
Thanks for your help

 

[Mach1mike]

Ok got the clutch pack out, I haft to admit

 

[Mach1mike]

Ok, I got the clutch pack out, I haft to admit so do the seals ( to the naked and untrained eye) thoughts on the pictures of the discs?

 

[Mach1mike]

Sorry didn't proof read the last post. Was supposed to read *i haft to admit the seals look find to thee untrained eye

 

[jd110]

The disks appear to have wear on the splined area. The friction surface doesn't appear too bad. The sleeve in the housing where the seals ride doesn't appear too bad in the photo. Do you have a picture of the seals? Do you have the piston removed from the clutch drum?

 

[Mach1mike]

Here are some pictures

 

[Mach1mike]

I'll take it to work tomorrow and remove the piston. I have a press there

 

[Zebrafive]

Ok, I got the clutch pack out, I haft to admit so do the seals ( to the naked and untrained eye) thoughts on the pictures of the discs?

Frictions disks should be .112-.118 thick. Separator plates .085-.095 thick. They are supposed to be slightly wavy.

 

[Mach1mike]

Smoking gun found (I believe ) the seals look pretty bad and note the rust around the inner lip.

 

[Mach1mike]

Piston ring

 

[Mach1mike]

It's not rust on the lip, it's the rubber from the seal

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks for the photos. I know not to pull mine clutch as long as it will move forward.

Changing out the fluid about three times getting most of the water out helped our forward clutch a
lot. When we first got it in 2010 I had to travel in reverse to get it back up to the house after working if for a couple hours. I moved three buckets of dirt about 1/4 mile each round trip and on the third trip I add to let off the fuel to get it to lock up when in high range on taking off on pavement.

After changing fluids, filters and screen it always moves forward in Lo Range which is fine for me. On open road I can travel in Hi Range for about 10 miles in 7th or 8th (top) gear before it will not lock up the clutch on take off. Since I mainly use it around the place Lo Range is about all I need.

 

[Mach1mike]

The old outer seal on the piston left a mess on the housing (see prior pics) so I scrapped off as much as I could w/ a razor then took 1000 grit sand paper and lightly sanded it smooth. Should this be ? Should I goto 1500 grit?