1948 8N

   / 1948 8N #21  
Ford gas and the Yanmar 2Cyl. Diesel. I use. 10W-40 Tractor supply Diesel rated in it. The Ford Oil-Filter next change I'll use 20W-50 castrol Etc.. I used the Thin 10W-40 NTM. looking for leaks which I found the few there was and easily taken care of. It will get a quick change around 50 tach HRS. to have a good look at it.. May not make 50. No use to speak of so that may happen Looking more like 25 Tach. Hrs.. Oil prices drop I will! Pull the plug on that pipe line.....
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#22  
As a gas engine, would ordinary 10-30 be preferable to Diesel rated oil?
I guess it depends on who you ask. I tend to abide by a trusted friend who has worked on small engines all his life, and he swears by it. His mower has round 20,000 hours on it, doesn't use any oil hardly. Been using it consistently. So, who do you believe ? They all have valid points. If I remember correctly, diesel mostly withstands higher temps. And I had high temp issues not too long ago, that's why I switched.
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Have another question. Redoing the rear axle seals, etc. Outting it back together and watching a YouTube as I go. All is good, till the guy showed replacing the rubber washer that goes behind the flat steel washer behind the axle nut. I can't find any info about this rubber washer, or where to acquire one. Advise ? Thanks.
 
   / 1948 8N #24  
The parts manual shows only the washer behind the axle nut:
1749591306614.png
 
   / 1948 8N #25  
There is no rubber washer that goes there, if there were it would eventually let the nut loose its torque and allow the hub to move and wear out. Steel washer and torque the nut to 450 lbs. Oh and be sure to check it after each use for a month or two as it will loosen up some for a little while until everything gets settled in.
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#26  
The hoods of the N tractors are a jigsaw puzzle and it can be a real trial getting all the parts to line up correctly. You probably need to loosen up the bolts holding the doglegs to the hood and tweak things to make it all line up.

For the record I have never seen a hood on an "N" tractor that fit very well.
Have another query. Rebuilding the rear axles, no real problem. But when doing the passenger side, the brake actuating camshaft (lever with foot pad to the brakes inside the drum) came out when I pulled everything apart, I didn't see how the brake pawl was positioned. Can anyone advise if it is positioned correctly ? Can't find a picture of how it goes yet...
 

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   / 1948 8N #27  
I cannot find any pics in my files but found this from the Ford parts manual.
 

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  • output.pdf
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   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Have another query. Rebuilding the rear axles, no real problem. But when doing the passenger side, the brake actuating camshaft (lever with foot pad to the brakes inside the drum) came out when I pulled everything apart, I didn't see how the brake pawl was positioned. Can anyone advise if it is positioned correctly ? Can't find a picture of how it goes yet...
Scratch last, found a YouTube and determined I had it correct.
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#29  
I cannot find any pics in my files but found this from the Ford parts manual.
I saw that too, but it wasn't very clear. Found a you tube where this guy explained how they worked and I saw I had it correct.
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I saw that too, but it wasn't very clear. Found a you tube where this guy explained how they worked and I saw I had it correct.
Whoever had this 8N in the past apparently did some work on the bakes and such, and instead of using the correct seals and gaskets, he used RTV everywhere. May have worked for awhile, but I suspect that's why I had oil/grease leaks.
He had welded pieces together for the steering drag links, making one side about 4-5" longer than the other. Now I know why it didn't steer good.
Learning a lot here.
 
   / 1948 8N #31  
Whoever had this 8N in the past apparently did some work on the bakes and such, and instead of using the correct seals and gaskets, he used RTV everywhere.
Believe it or not there was/is a method that is used for the axle seals on the 9/2N and early 8N tractors that uses LOTS of RTV to create a seal of sorts. I will not go into the details here on how to but I do not recommend it.

IMHO, RTV has a place and a use... best place is in the tube on the shelf. Give me gaskets every time.
 
   / 1948 8N #32  
I had best results using Gaskets. Clean the surface and new Gasket or Material. I have made several that way. Used both RTV. and Gaskets on old damaged equipment. oil. pans, Valve covers Etc.. Not happy about it but it has worked several times.
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Need to pick a brain again. Doing the rear axles/brakes. All went well until when finishing I saw I had a seal left, 8N-4233-A1, item #13 in parts catalog, page 1-35. Didn't take one off, but can't see any place for it to go. I'm guessing it goes on the axle further inside the housing, but I didn't pull axle out. Also, there is an asterisk next to the part number, and at the bottom of the page it says "No Longer Serviced". Not sure what that means.
Can someone shed a little light here please ? Wife wants the tractor off the carport...
 
   / 1948 8N #34  
The 4233 is the inner seal and it goes in the end of the axle trumpet, to replace it you would need to remove the axle.

output.jpg
 
   / 1948 8N
  • Thread Starter
#35  
The 4233 is the inner seal and it goes in the end of the axle trumpet, to replace it you would need to remove the axle.

View attachment 3713369
Thanks John, that's kinda what I figured. That's why I never saw one cleaning everything up, I never removed the axle.
 

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