1948 8N

[careyo63]

Ford gas and the Yanmar 2Cyl. Diesel. I use. 10W-40 Tractor supply Diesel rated in it. The Ford Oil-Filter next change I'll use 20W-50 castrol Etc.. I used the Thin 10W-40 NTM. looking for leaks which I found the few there was and easily taken care of. It will get a quick change around 50 tach HRS. to have a good look at it.. May not make 50. No use to speak of so that may happen Looking more like 25 Tach. Hrs.. Oil prices drop I will! Pull the plug on that pipe line.....

 

[Davenj4f]

As a gas engine, would ordinary 10-30 be preferable to Diesel rated oil?

I guess it depends on who you ask. I tend to abide by a trusted friend who has worked on small engines all his life, and he swears by it. His mower has round 20,000 hours on it, doesn't use any oil hardly. Been using it consistently. So, who do you believe ? They all have valid points. If I remember correctly, diesel mostly withstands higher temps. And I had high temp issues not too long ago, that's why I switched.

 

[Davenj4f]

Have another question. Redoing the rear axle seals, etc. Outting it back together and watching a YouTube as I go. All is good, till the guy showed replacing the rubber washer that goes behind the flat steel washer behind the axle nut. I can't find any info about this rubber washer, or where to acquire one. Advise ? Thanks.

 

[EdGooding]

The parts manual shows only the washer behind the axle nut:

 

[John0829]

There is no rubber washer that goes there, if there were it would eventually let the nut loose its torque and allow the hub to move and wear out. Steel washer and torque the nut to 450 lbs. Oh and be sure to check it after each use for a month or two as it will loosen up some for a little while until everything gets settled in.

 

[Davenj4f]

The hoods of the N tractors are a jigsaw puzzle and it can be a real trial getting all the parts to line up correctly. You probably need to loosen up the bolts holding the doglegs to the hood and tweak things to make it all line up.

For the record I have never seen a hood on an "N" tractor that fit very well.

Have another query. Rebuilding the rear axles, no real problem. But when doing the passenger side, the brake actuating camshaft (lever with foot pad to the brakes inside the drum) came out when I pulled everything apart, I didn't see how the brake pawl was positioned. Can anyone advise if it is positioned correctly ? Can't find a picture of how it goes yet...

 

[John0829]

I cannot find any pics in my files but found this from the Ford parts manual.

 

[Davenj4f]

Have another query. Rebuilding the rear axles, no real problem. But when doing the passenger side, the brake actuating camshaft (lever with foot pad to the brakes inside the drum) came out when I pulled everything apart, I didn't see how the brake pawl was positioned. Can anyone advise if it is positioned correctly ? Can't find a picture of how it goes yet...

Scratch last, found a YouTube and determined I had it correct.

 

[Davenj4f]

I cannot find any pics in my files but found this from the Ford parts manual.

I saw that too, but it wasn't very clear. Found a you tube where this guy explained how they worked and I saw I had it correct.

 

[Davenj4f]

I saw that too, but it wasn't very clear. Found a you tube where this guy explained how they worked and I saw I had it correct.

Whoever had this 8N in the past apparently did some work on the bakes and such, and instead of using the correct seals and gaskets, he used RTV everywhere. May have worked for awhile, but I suspect that's why I had oil/grease leaks.
He had welded pieces together for the steering drag links, making one side about 4-5" longer than the other. Now I know why it didn't steer good.
Learning a lot here.