OP
ernemats
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2002
- Messages
- 1,054
- Location
- Bolivar, pa.
- Tractor
- power trac 422, and agco-allis 5660, ,1845 power trac Greenworks CRT 426
Finally got it up and running , put new fuel shut off solenoid and wiring harness on it seems to run fine only problem is it sometimes trips the circuit breaker on the dash, Terry thinks alternator is going bad. checked voltage at battery with tractor running and it showed 14.25 volts Terry said it should only be about 12.8 or so
ponytug
Super Member
Congratulations on getting it running again.
I defer to Terry, but there might be other things as well. Those pop out circuit breakers are neither especially reliable nor waterproof. The non-OEM fuel shutoffs do draw more power so you may have more load than you had. So I am not sure that I would rush to blame the alternator at 14.25V. The normal range is 13.8 to 15 for a lead acid battery set up. If it were me, I might test the voltage / current various places to perhaps get some insights as to the source of the load.
I would also double check the wiring and connector at the alternator.
All the best,
Peter
SpringHollow
Elite Member
My alternator has always been on the high side, around 14.5V. Even the replacement alternator ran this high. One battery actually got boiled.
OP
ernemats
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2002
- Messages
- 1,054
- Location
- Bolivar, pa.
- Tractor
- power trac 422, and agco-allis 5660, ,1845 power trac Greenworks CRT 426
Does your circuit breaker ever trip and have to be reset
SpringHollow
Elite Member
It has happened a few times over the years.
OP
ernemats
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2002
- Messages
- 1,054
- Location
- Bolivar, pa.
- Tractor
- power trac 422, and agco-allis 5660, ,1845 power trac Greenworks CRT 426
Started it up yesterday and still pops the circuit breaker . Turned the pto on and nothing , reset circuit breaker and it started the mower , ran it for while mowing maybe 10 minutes and heard squeaking noise , seems like brakes are trying to engage , don't know what is going on.
ponytug
Super Member
Sounds to me like a case of them there electrical gremlins alright. You have my sympathy.
My bet would be either on a shorting cable, wet or corroded terminal strip, or a flakey ground.
I'd be inclined to pull the front cover to the dash, and check the terminal strip to make sure the wires look ok (dry, no corrosion) and that the terminals are tight. Then, I'd check the main cable from the dash terminal strip back to the electrical box, checking especially where it could have been rubbing. It is a bit of a challenge to access all the places the cable crosses sharp metal, but pulling the covers helps. Then I'd check the electrical box, pain that it is to access. Finally, if I didn't find anything, I would run a new ground from the front dash to the battery negative terminal on the engine block, and one from that bolt to the rear tub frame.
Side story: I had an otherwise nice trailer that had rear lights that would work for a while, then flake out, and then after a while back to normal. Drove the prior owner nuts, as he had it to an otherwise great auto electrical shop numerous times, without them finding a cause. He sold it to me, and it had the same behavior, so I decided to bite the bullet and pull new cable. As I pulled out the old cable, I found a slice across the cable, cutting into the wires. Turns out the manufacturer had left a sharp edge where two pieces of square metal tube butted together, and they had run the cable through the square metal tube front to rear, and the sharp edge had slowly vibrated into the cable, shorting wires to ground. Then it would go over a bump and bounce free of the short. Maddening. Fixing the sharp edge inside the tube was a pain.
Good luck.
All the best,
Peter