1845 problem

[ernemats]

Not much good happening . Terry told me to try replacing 20 amp circuit breaker with a 30 amp fuse which I did, worked to start and run but when I shut it off it would not start , fuse blown, put another 30 amp fuse in same results only part of plastic on fuse was melted from running it from my shed to my garage where I have my tools and better lighting. Have not done anything to it for the last few days will have to talk to Terry again to see what he has to say. Have been working on problem with our water well

 

[ponytug]

Not much good happening . Terry told me to try replacing 20 amp circuit breaker with a 30 amp fuse which I did, worked to start and run but when I shut it off it would not start , fuse blown, put another 30 amp fuse in same results only part of plastic on fuse was melted from running it from my shed to my garage where I have my tools and better lighting. Have not done anything to it for the last few days will have to talk to Terry again to see what he has to say. Have been working on problem with our water well

That does seem like a really excessive draw somewhere.

Good luck on your well! That's important. (What's up with it?)

All the best,

Peter

 

[ernemats]

Bladder in pressure tank failed after 25 years

 

[ernemats]

still have not found problem. Blew several more 30 amp fuses, put new wire from dash to starter switch to replace wire that insulation had melted at the connector . Found wire not connected to anything but a electric junction box by rear wheel bolted to body of tractor. one wire that came out of it was grounded to a bolt by rear pulley, other wire was in plastic tube it has 2 wires in it connected to nothing can't figure what it would be for, can not get cover off junction box to see what might be inside not enough room to get screwdriver in. Tried loosening bolt holding it to frame but it must have a nut inside box that is turning

 

[ponytug]

still have not found problem. Blew several more 30 amp fuses, put new wire from dash to starter switch to replace wire that insulation had melted at the connector . Found wire not connected to anything but a electric junction box by rear wheel bolted to body of tractor. one wire that came out of it was grounded to a bolt by rear pulley, other wire was in plastic tube it has 2 wires in it connected to nothing can't figure what it would be for, can not get cover off junction box to see what might be inside not enough room to get screwdriver in. Tried loosening bolt holding it to frame but it must have a nut inside box that is turning

Is either one of the two wires hot when the ignition is on? Something like that would do in more than a few fuses.

All the best, Peter

 

[MossRoad]

still have not found problem. Blew several more 30 amp fuses, put new wire from dash to starter switch to replace wire that insulation had melted at the connector . Found wire not connected to anything but a electric junction box by rear wheel bolted to body of tractor. one wire that came out of it was grounded to a bolt by rear pulley, other wire was in plastic tube it has 2 wires in it connected to nothing can't figure what it would be for, can not get cover off junction box to see what might be inside not enough room to get screwdriver in. Tried loosening bolt holding it to frame but it must have a nut inside box that is turning

I have a couple of these ratcheting screwdrivers in small and medium size. They are inexpensive and have saved my bacon more than a few times.

Don't know if they'll work for you or not, but just thought I'd throw it out there and wish you good luck.

 

[ernemats]

Took alternator off tonight will take it to be tested tomorrow

 

[ernemats]

Alternator was tested and it was good but said it was getting worn and was very dirty. I had them go overit and replace anything they thought needed. They replaced the regulator and bearing and cleaned it looks like new one now. put it in and hooked it up still tripping circuit breaker. If I reset circuit breaker while running the engine acts like it is under a load and engine slows down. If you disconnect the plus wire on top of alternator engine does not trip circuit breaker and is not charging battery. Checked voltage at battery and dash with plus hooked up on battery both read about 14.26 steady. Any ideas will talk to Terry again tomorrow.

 

[ponytug]

I'm thinking that you have a wire somewhere whose insulation has rubbed through. That's one of those, start at "A" and go to "Z" projects, but if it were me, I'd start behind the dash at the terminal strip.

All the best, Peter

 

[MossRoad]

Oh, man... the movie Fantastic Voyage comes to mind when working on wiring problems.

In reality, it's just a circuit where good diagrams would come in handy. Otherwise, you have to make your own diagram as you go. Sometimes that's helpful.

 

[PowerTracManiac]

.

Sounds to me like a case of them there electrical gremlins alright. You have my sympathy.

My bet would be either on a shorting cable, wet or corroded terminal strip, or a flakey ground.

I'd be inclined to pull the front cover to the dash, and check the terminal strip to make sure the wires look ok (dry, no corrosion) and that the terminals are tight. Then, I'd check the main cable from the dash terminal strip back to the electrical box, checking especially where it could have been rubbing. It is a bit of a challenge to access all the places the cable crosses sharp metal, but pulling the covers helps. Then I'd check the electrical box, pain that it is to access. Finally, if I didn't find anything, I would run a new ground from the front dash to the battery negative terminal on the engine block, and one from that bolt to the rear tub frame.

Side story: I had an otherwise nice trailer that had rear lights that would work for a while, then flake out, and then after a while back to normal. Drove the prior owner nuts, as he had it to an otherwise great auto electrical shop numerous times, without them finding a cause. He sold it to me, and it had the same behavior, so I decided to bite the bullet and pull new cable. As I pulled out the old cable, I found a slice across the cable, cutting into the wires. Turns out the manufacturer had left a sharp edge where two pieces of square metal tube butted together, and they had run the cable through the square metal tube front to rear, and the sharp edge had slowly vibrated into the cable, shorting wires to ground. Then it would go over a bump and bounce free of the short. Maddening. Fixing the sharp edge inside the tube was a pain.

Good luck.

All the

***yes to above***
You started this post with a mouse nest in the engine bay. I bet they also chewed up some wire insulation somewhere and you are having an intermittent electrical issue. Sorry, I have been there also. Locate all grounds and clean/check those wires first. Then go from the grounds to other wires that are obvious/easy to see all the way around/where they might rub on something?-to wires that are more hidden. I dont have the tilt seat on my PT1460 or a wiring diagram which would be very nice, but that tilt seat/solenoid might be tied into the engine shutdown circuit?
I try to remember that the fuse/circuit breaker is there to protect the WIRE before it melts down.....good luck

 

[ernemats]

spent most of the afternoon checking wiring and could not find any wire damaged by mice chewing. When I start it up the circuit breaker does not pop out till it has been running for about 15 seconds. Terry is at a loss of what to check that I have not already done. only place i have not checked is where the wiring goes through the tunnel which I have no idea how you can do that. I am not keen on trying what Terry suggested to do to find problem.

 

[ponytug]

spent most of the afternoon checking wiring and could not find any wire damaged by mice chewing. When I start it up the circuit breaker does not pop out till it has been running for about 15 seconds. Terry is at a loss of what to check that I have not already done. only place i have not checked is where the wiring goes through the tunnel which I have no idea how you can do that. I am not keen on trying what Terry suggested to do to find problem.

What did Terry suggest?

15 secs for a slow short is about par for the course.

On my machine the only wire that goes through the tunnel is elevator control cord. It is pretty bulletproof; however, it does along the floor of the engine pan, and it might be possible that it has been eroded there. If it were me, I would check from the dash down by feel, and then again under floor below the treadle, and again back where it emerges from the tunnel into the engine tub.

Have you tried pulling the Deutz engine plug and seeing if you get the breaker popping in 15 seconds?

All the best, Peter

 

[SpringHollow]

Disconnect the wire in question and run a temporary bypass for that wire (don't run through the tunnel) and see if that changes anything. If it does, you know the problem. If it doesn't, just reconnect it.

 

[gengine]

If it's blowing a fuse rated 10 amps higher than the breaker, you have a wire that is grounding out somewhere, it is pulling too many amps somewhere. Grab your multimeter, and start chising that wire from the fues holder down stream, unplugging things one at a time until your ohm meter reading changes from a high reading to almost nothing. When it changes, there is your bad part. if it doesn't change, you have something in your harness shorting out. That's where your start the wiggle test. grab that harness, and in 1 foot sections, start wiggling it to see if it changes when bending the wires. if it does, your problem is in that 1' section. Carefully cut open the harness and inspect. if no external damage is found, bend the wires. if they make a good arc shape, they are good inside. If they make a sharp angle, they are broken inside.

 

[ernemats]

Terry suggested eliminating fuse or circuit breaker and running wire without protection of fuse , start engine up and watch for smoke that would be where problem is

 

[ernemats]

What did Terry suggest?

15 secs for a slow short is about par for the course.

On my machine the only wire that goes through the tunnel is elevator control cord. It is pretty bulletproof; however, it does along the floor of the engine pan, and it might be possible that it has been eroded there. If it were me, I would check from the dash down by feel, and then again under floor below the treadle, and again back where it emerges from the tunnel into the engine tub.

Have you tried pulling the Deutz engine plug and seeing if you get the breaker popping in 15 seconds?

All the best, Peter

What do you mean by deutz engine plug?

 

[ponytug]

What do you mean by deutz engine plug?

Facing the oil cooler side of the engine, lower right hand side, above the fuel cutoff solenoid is a black 2x14(?)pin connector that gets disconnected when degassing the hydraulic filter after changing it.

I suggested that because if you pull than and the fuse doesn't blow, you know that the problem is not in the engine. Just trying to reduce the search area.

I can see why you might not have leap on Terry's suggestion right away. As a variant on that idea, have you tried feeling wires immediately after the fuse blows? (Rather than bypassing it...)

All the best, Peter

 

[gengine]

Terry suggested eliminating fuse or circuit breaker and running wire without protection of fuse , start engine up and watch for smoke that would be where problem is

Terrible idea. If you can trace the wire connected to the fuse from a to z, then eliminate it and run a new wire with a fuse. By eliminating the fuse, you run the risk of burning down your tractor. Fuses are rated for wire size, wire size is determined by normal draw. Putting in a bigger fuse could lead to the wire igniting something before the fuse pops. Popping a 30amp fuse tells me you have something shorting out, could be the wire, could be whatever that wire does. But drawing over twenty amps with the original fuse, and over 30 amps with the replacement fuse, you may destroy that wire, plus every other wire in the harness, making your problem more expensive, or worse yet, years of grease/oil build up mixed with chaff, pluse wire insulation could start a fire and burn the whole thing to the ground. If it is in a shop or shed, it could burn that to the ground as well. Find your short and repair it, or abandon that wire, and install a new one from the fuse to wherever it lands.

 

[gengine]

It just donned on me that some Deutz engines have an external solenoid that opens the fuel flow via a spring and rod connected to a spring shut lever on the injection pump. If that's the case here, the solenoid needs adjusted so it can fully retract. Is that the case here or is the shut off solenoid bolted directly to the injection pump?