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I don't think an engine hoist from the side will "follow" well as you try to move the front 1/2 forward.

A lot of guys swap the lights on the ROPS from the out side to the inside, usually after hitting a limb/tree mowing and ruining one light. Or get the optional guards for them. A friend has one, same model. He had starting problems. Tractor did not think it was in neutral. Had message on the dash...

I installed two couplers to the lid of a 5 gallon bucket. My grapple gets hooked to it when removed. Works for me.

I would ask the service department of your local JD dealer to print out the instructions for LBV28790. It will include a parts list. Complete Good are bought through sales not parts. Check with sales for a price.

Time for a split then

My JD 2030 has return to filter housing kit from the two rear SCVs. I was told it was an option for using the rear SCVs for a loader. It did not have loader when I bought it. Normally the SCVs returned to the side of the rockshaft housing.

I assume hisun is the brand? That would be enough to keep me looking. I would want a name brand that parts are available for in the future.

Makes your day only 1/2 as bad as it could have been ;)

I bought a used BB72 for $800, but it had output shaft slop and seal out. New bearings and seals fixed it. I think it was ran with out gear lube. I expected the Woods quick change blade system. It came with standard pins and nuts. That was the only down side for me. I was looking for BB720 in...

You are right not to assume. Both the PTO shaft and gear box could have been swapped and the deck would still have a 287 tag. I am not sure if gear boxes have tags or not. I got a great deal a like new Bush Hog 297 from a John Deere dealer. They took it in on tractor that was traded in. The...

If it's running the plastic cam has not failed....yet. Could the barely visible plume be coolant?

What are you using to control the cylinder instead of gate valves?

IIRC it was the foam ring (red arrow) between the two parts (red dots) allowing dirt to enter the engine. I think the suggested cure was to replace the foam with a sealant. Kawasaki may have changed the foam ring in your 2021. I have a 2018 FXR

I also would not put a lesser HP gear box on. Time to weigh the cost to repair versus cost to replace.

I rebuilt a Woods gear box. Seals and bearings. I was surprised how loose the mesh of the gears was. Nothing like rebuilding/setup of a ring pinion in an axle.

I noticed the colored tie wraps on the lower hoses, nice touch. I would add them to the upper (loader) hoses in case a dust boot gets torn off. I put them on mine even though I have Multi-coupler. It confirms I am putting the coupler half on right (even though it only will go on one way)

The fewer the adapters, the cleaner the look!

If it were new to me, I'd do the first oil change in the fall (my tractors so no winter use). After that go by hours. If you still want to change oil every fall with low hours, I would remove and drain the filter, and reinstall at the oil change. I would change filter by hours. If you change...

Any reason you did not get JD P/N AL19890 main switch/key switch?

My neighbor has both a JD and International orchard tractor, both restored. Nice to look at, but now I would not want to use them and scratch them up.

Good post about 4wd helping the braking, most people don't consider that. Some tractors engage 4wd when the brakes are applied. My JD 6415 does.

Is the shop a JD dealer? What are they saying the delay is? JD parts shows cylinders/parts available, depending on loader serial number.

Here's the bracket used on the H260 loader, if that helps $138 The quick couplers are $56 and the nuts for them $7, so $378 for 6pc.

I have not experienced this leak or viewed it myself. TxJim, retired JD service manager, first brought this to my attention. I ASSUME the spraying will be present with just the tractor running? But not sure. I am TxJim can explain further.

First my "snipping tool" was gone AWOL, no where to be found in windows menu. Now it's back, but posting "weird" multiples of the same "snip"

Largest allthread that would fit would be the best choice. Good idea.

From your picture, I think the leak is in the passage from the transmission case to the rockshaft cover. JD uses a "washer" P/N T17882 to seal this passage. Before pulling the rockshaft housing, look in the transmission fill hole for oil spraying internally. A sign your rockshaft valve is...

If you plan to dig with forks, I would want double the loader capacity for when all the pressure is on one fork.

Glad I could help.

OK, I was able to see the jet of oil in picture. I do not know if that's by design or a casting flaw. In your first post you said you checked the transmission pump and it was perfect. How much flow did you get? What was the pressure?

I do not understand the small jet of fluid from the trans pump directed forward. Can you tell where exactly it's coming from?

I think you should have bought RE188271

The "plate" behind the loader mount is called a side frame.

You could put the winch on the back for when you get yourself in too deep going forward. On my buddie's Mule, his winch (also used with his plow) failed to power in. It would power out. His controller failed. To get the cable wound back on the winch, I reversed the two wires to the winch. He...

On my 6415 I had issues with the fuel lines. They started to weep every place they had to stretch to fit a steel fitting. The quick fix was to cut an inch off the line. What I cut off was soft. Not much extra line for cutting shorter. The long term fix was new fuel lines. I used Gates, not JD line.

Also look at wheel size. 12" and 14" seem to be the most common now. Ride might be better on a smaller wheel, more sidewall to flex. Handling at speed might be better on bigger wheel, less sidewall to squirm/flex.

I have a 6 way WOODS RB 800 blade for sale in Southwest MI, all manual, no hydraulics. Width is 8 foot. I bought a bigger tractor, so I also bought a bigger blade, rather than damage this one. $800

The gauge/instrument clusters in these tractor have given a lot of problems. If you are comfortable working on printed circuit boards (I am not) check the connector pins for cracked solder joints.

Yes, OHMs should be the same for both sensors. 700 OHMs hot, 40 OHMs cold. The wire should have 6-7 volts. This is from my x485 service manual, Electrical/ Instrument Panel Diagnosis

Does it have a spark arrestor on the muffler? I think it was an option. If so, see if it's carboned up/clogged.

Have you replaced the pulsor coil? I do not know what spark plug caps should OHM. You might want to try new ones?

The male ends (in the valve) look like SAE also called ORB (O Ring Boss) the female ends to the hoses look like female swivel NPT (National Pipe Thread)

I second checking both main and rod bearings and looking at bearing 1/2s and bearing surfaces of the crank. I don't think JD offered a HD front axle for loader use, but I would want it to have side frames.

OK, I was thinking consignment auction, where a lot of problems get "sent down the road"

Makes me glad my JD 6415 came with the less than deluxe couplers. No drains on the couplers or the dust caps.

Should there be check valve(s) on the T & E lines where they go into the TEE? So neither port can put pressure into the other port? Or is that not needed since the TEE is open to tank?

This sounding more and more like a parts tractor, not worth the cost of fixing. My guess is they gave up and sent it to auction.

I was looking last year and a JD dealer had one on his lot. I was able to talk to the former owner and he said it broke two rear axles, so he traded it for a Gator.

IIRC JD uses a resistance wire, not a resistor. Typically the coil + will have two wires. One from the starter solenoid that supplies 12v during starting. The other, the resistance wire, from the Key switch, "I" (ignition) terminal, that is "hot" in "Run" You could run a new wire (from key...

Would it be possible to rotate the engine via the PTO shaft? :unsure: That's if it does NOT have the independent PTO with hydraulic clutch pack.

Why are you not having the fan switch mounted on the radiator replaced?

JD has multiple quick couplers. I've only seen drains on the deluxe. Sometimes only one drain for the top one, or two and top drain plugged when used for the top position. Did you buy any male hose ends too?

Yes

I assume you are out of warranty. I put an aftermarket (DB Electrical) starter on my JD 2030. It's been trouble free.

My first guess is maybe the hoses, loader to tractor are not connected correctly. My second guess is the are hose quick coupler(s) not seated/correctly connected.

I agree, mismatch couplers. Buy some male hose ends from a JD dealer Faster is just the brand, so there may not be a specific coupler specified. I would think JD P/N AR94522, list $12.30 would work. There may be other P/Ns depending on what type of threads the coupler has for the hose end...

Those are JD couplers. They are the deluxe version, made by Faster in Italy. The barbed fitting is for a "leak off" hoses. The upper will only have one barbed fitting at 6 o'clock, the lower two barbed fittings at 12 & 6 o'clock. Hoses are run to transmission fill. Leakoff from dust cover will...

My guess is he's talking about quick couplers. Sounds like they are not correct match (see Hosspuller's post #13) Leak down could be leaking load check valves inside the SCV. The black knob controls function of the SCV. It should not affect hoses coming uncoupled. Depending on the valve series...

After one year I had concrete floor put in my building. The only additional expense was they had to remove dirt equal to the thickness of the concrete. So there was hand work at the edges/posts. I don't remember the extra cost, it was 25+ years ago. Concrete delivery was no problem the building...

Go to a farm store and see what you can find.

Tractor was offered with and without grease fitting on TO bearing. Have you tried spinning it to see if it's free/smooth? Have you checked the PTO clutch lockout on the clutch pedal linkage? Loosen the bolt, and pull back on the clutch pedal and tighten the bolt. (Opposite locks out the PTO...

I found two in parts, one is called temp sensor: Power Quad transmission, the other is called switch: for PowerReverser They show two different switches key 1 &13

17 = no effect on tractor opertion 67 = neutral start switch indicates not neutral, but no reason for this

17 = does not effect tractor operation 45 = direction selected, enable solenoid still closed 27 = enable pressure switch indicates no pressure 56 = reverser lever not in neutral when started 55 = enable solenoid stuck in closed position 32 = park position, but neutral signal missing 40 = forward...

Since you have the books, I ASSUME Tech Manual, see if it has pressure tests for the reverse. I am guessing leaking reverse lines or clutch.

JD parts says the flywheel sensor was no longer used after serial number 320004. Does your TM1985 have date? I suspect you have an early edition.

2010s were 4 cylinder

Hard to weld something oily and get it to hold. You need to find out what plug will work and replace it. If the hydraulic shops are close, you might see if they will replace the plug if you bring the whole tractor to their shop.

Do both sides drive with diff lock engaged? I would worry an axle broke and could come out. I agree time to open it up

Can you get one out and determine thread size and how it's sealed? I will guess metric threads. Maybe an O-ring to seal?

Just using the diameter; 25" to 27", is a 7% increase. The actual tires may not be 25" & 27", so the percent change may be more or less. But if 7% I think that's too big of an increase. 4wd tractors are set up with the front tires Leading or Pulling, 1-6% already, a 7% increase is too much. Now...

I was surprised to see JD offered it at that price (low for JD, the small wire harness, not the main harness)

I was replying to the original poster about his valve, not you about your coupler.

Is this what you need? From JD parts

Have you looked on JDparts?

The oil change would be the cheapest "maybe" fix. So for $100 verses $1000 or more, plus a lot of time, worth a try. I have not shortage of brush, old downed wood, and stumps to burn too.

Are there cables from the joystick to loader valve? If so, I would start with the cables.

I think you had a tracked and cabbed Can Am before. Probably only miss the cab?

The oil change might help.............a little. Do you have way to drain into a clean container and save if that does not work? If so, that would not be a major expense, you would want to fill with fresh/clean oil after a split, so you will be buying oil either way. I would price the parts to...

You need to make sure the valve you get is compatible with your hydraulic system. As in open center or closed center. Usually it only means you have also have to order a closed center plug, or open center (power beyond) sleeve. Having the 3rd function electrically operated, I do not see as a...

There seems to be a lot of unbranded/no name skid steer implements being sold, usually at auction. The torn tube looks pretty thin, like made from light gauge metal. I would pass.

I would keep the 2040. I See no reason to change. I wish my 2030 had only 350 hours. It has north of 4500 hours. Unless it was abused, your clutch has lot of life left. The main reason I would switch from my 2030 is to get away from the collar shift trans. Another poster says the 5303 also is...

It might be an adjustment. Does a cable change from 2wd to 4wd? It sounds like it's no longer engaging 2wd

I don't know the correct answer. So ONLY A GUESS. I would put the slot towards the ball bearing.

Bad U-joint(s) in the PTO shaft? Bent PTO shaft (from raising too high and shaft hitting deck) The shaft could be bent inside the shield and not look bent with the shield on. If the output shaft is bent, you might see the blades and/or stump jumper not following a lever path. DO NOT CHECK...

I'll say $1000-1200, I would consider these light duty, so be sure it fits your needs.

I see the bolt broke in the threads. Try a bolt with a longer shoulder, so not loading the threaded area?

It's more the Canadian dollar verses the US dollar

6000 series

Plenty more out there

I forgot to add the the plastic bushing centers the inner drive cable in the outer cable

There is washer P/N R26919 that goes between the clutch housing and the flywheel housing. T31437 goes on the tach cable, then cable installs into clutch housing. T21827 is used when no tach, it installs into clutch housing from the outside, then a plug goes in, rather than a tach cable. Parts...

I would also take apart the transmission filter relief valve and clean it, incase any metal ended up there. There is also a "surge" valve you may want to check, lower right side of the clutch housing. The transmission filter should have protected the front pump and it's inlet line. I wonder...

I bought my JD 2030 used without a loader. I looked three years for a loader. Then it was missing mounting brackets, (not the main mounts) hardware and hydraulic fittings to attach. I was lucky it had the valve, joystick and cables. I had to buy the mounting bracket for the joystick too. I...

Chinese made Chery 812cc fuel injected 3 cylinder, dual overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder. Also used in Kawasaki Mule Pro FX, FXR & FXT. Some Arctic Cat/Textron side by sides.

To get the fuse box, you have to buy the complete harness. Notice key 19 has no P/N or price. Remarks say A If you look at key 37, the harness, remarks will say includes all parts marked A

If you don't need special fittings, such as ORFS, or angles like 45°, 90°, I second Surplus Center. They offer female swivel JIC ends.

For popping out; the adjustment of the cable that operates it.

I'll bet a used $12 K tractor in the lower 48 will be a $20K tractor in Alaska

OFF TOPIC ALERT I like the older Fords I have a '78 F450 4x4, owned since new. The Michigan rust is catching up with it :cry::mad:

The 2240 looks like it has the swept back front axle, but hard to tell from the angle of the pictures. It doe not appear to have side frames, but hard to tell. It does have wheel weights! (y)

Maybe that's why the quadrant for the 3pt is so low?

You can still buy the shift legend sticker/decal/label

Forgot to say it looks like you have the down exhaust, like my 2030 has. I like it, only drawback is hooking with the engine running it makes my eyes water. and if you ever need a new hood they are harder to find.

I have the same trouble with the independent PTO engagement lever popping out of engagement. JD should have put a heavier detent on it. Your picture shows the swept back axle. Great for manuverablity, but NOT what you want for a loader. A std straight axle would be better, the HD with two rows...

I can't give a temp for the fan to switch on. You might need a service manual for that. When I had my Mule 2510, the only time I noticed the fan come on was at shutdown after use in, parked in the barn. With the coolant no longer being pumped and no air flow through the radiator, the fan would...

I was going ask if you knew about them. I've split a couple 2030 several times. Also a bolt behind the transmission filter.

Some of your questions may have been answered, so The may be duplicates. I ASSUMED the tractor had Reverser when you said it had a lever to shift forward/reverse. You later described the left lever on the transmission having reverse. So this 2020 does not have a Reverser. You are correct a...

I agree, most likely improperly coupled. OR bent cylinder rod(s) from improper use (such as back blading with the bucket tilted straight down)

I too think they are the wrong blades, or somehow both were bent. I would worry about them contacting and cutting the upper deck, the "can opener" affect you sometimes see on used decks.

First $8K is high for a 2020, you are paying a lot for the restore job included. Finding a loader will be hard. I am not sure what front axle it has. I am not even sure a HD front axle was offered, which is must for a loader. Next two wheel drive is limiting. I have the next size/series up, a...

I am guessing the Bush Hog is mostly made in USA, so it gets my vote.

I measured my JD 2030 for you to compare. It has 16.9 x 28" rear tires. A straight, not offset drawbar. Ground to top of drawbar 17 3/4" Ground to center of lower draft link hole 13 1/2" I forgot to measure the center to center of the links, rockshaft arm to lower draft link. I know they can be...

Just a wild guess, from looking at parts drawing. Since it has a gasket and there are two, I think these are it?? :unsure:

Good choice! I wanted a 5X10, or 5X20 series when I bought my 2030. They were over budget for me :cry:

You can get by with two. TM-2048 and TM-2049. TM -2048 is repair ONLY TM 2049 is diagnostic & wiring diagrams ONLY If only buying one, I suggest TM 2049 If you were to have serious engine problems (which I doubt) get the 4.5L 4 cylinder engine TM. There are many to choose from based on emission...

Such as exact model and what you were doing with it when it over heats.

I have 9' for my JD 6415. I was looking for an 8' and found deal on used 9'

A friend has a 6' Tartar (sold by TSC). Only failure has been gear box seals. He replaced and put in "corn head" grease. When putting in the new input shaft seal, he found a snap ring broken (poor design in my opinion). He said it must have been his fault for operating with the PTO shaft too...

FYI RCU = Reverser Control Unit (for those that don't know) (y) (y) (y)🤠 RCU 01- codes: 045 direction of travel selected, but enable solenoid is still closed 032 park position, but its valid neutral signal missing 055 enable solenoid stuck in "closed" position 027enable pressure switch...

If you meant Harley Davidson, they made golf carts, designed that way for reverse

I agree, get your battery tested or just replace it. I've heard people have had good and bad luck with battery chargers that "desulfate" or "repair" batteries that wont charge.

I've heard of 2 stroke motorcycles running backwards, but never saw it. I hope my tractors never do.

Yes, that is the switch that turns on the cooling fan. Unplug and jumper the connector and your fan will cone on if it's good. When mine failed, I got a warning light on the dash. Why don't you use antifreeze so you don't have to drain the coolant every winter?

I had a 1996 Mule 2510. The sensor for the fan is mounted in the radiator, back right side. You have to remove the inner fender liner to see it, get to it. It has two wires, jumper them together and the fan should come on. If you are quick, you can replace the sensor with very little coolant loss.

I think around 9-10gpm. It has two cylinders, I am guessing 3" bore. I usually shift the tractor to reverse as the grapple opens (no reverser). I leave the clutch down until opened and dumped, then I ready to back away from the burn pile.

MY JD 2030 has two rear SCVs, so it was the obvious choice for my grapple. It (the SCV) has detents for both open and close. Move the lever to detent and do something else while the grapple is opening or closing. Like curl or dump, change directions of the tractor, raise or lower the loader, etc.

In my area the John Deere dealer has almost nothing on the lot. People are buying, so you may not lose much. A friend said he was offered $2K more for his truck than he paid, when car shopping.

I think I would buy the other governor and see how it compares to the one you removed.

Have you considered a "carry all" for your 3pt hitch?

I've used Caltric with good results. One way clutch on Kawasaki ATV.

Your system should still be open center and valve will pump the same.

Also could be leaking intake/carb gaskets causing it to run lean.

Which P/N governor did you buy? JD parts list two P/Ns AM105569 AM129809

I get 8.65 acres

Your diagram shows a power beyond line from the loader valve. This means you have open center hydraulics. Some valves are only for open or closed center hydraulics, some you buy a closed center plug/sleeve for closed center (which you do not have) or a power beyond plug/sleeve for open center...

When I bleed my 2030's brakes, I put a long clear hose on the bleeder. I run the hose up and make a loop. I bleed until not more air is in the clear hose, just hyd fluid coming out. I route the hose to container to catch the fluid.

When my JD 6415 was delivered the trucker chained to the front axle. The chains were so tight chain link impressions are in the paint on the axle. At least he did not do the same on the rear axle. In the back he had a clevis in the drawbar. I heard the same about Intimidator breaking off from...

You should be fine at 1800rpm PTO speed or even less rpm with your pump choice. My JD 2030 is rated max HP at 2500rpm, PTO 2100rpm, I usually run 1500rpm and up.

You may as well also buy the gasket, O-rings/packing for the clutch housing to transmission case split. Not knowing your serial number, I did not list P/Ns

See if your dealer will loan/rent you the tool. My dealer loaned me their tool, but that was over 20 years ago, before a Mega dealer bought them out.

Rather than make "jumpers" can you swap the couplers on the hoses to the grapple?

Disconnect the couplers and reconnect, then try.

Can you turn the shaft that drives the transmission pump by hand? Rear seal requires a special tool to install the new seal. Be sure to use new packings (rubber washers) on the two oil lines to the lower right transmission case.

I am not familiar with your model tractor. My JD 2030 has a mark on the tach at 2100rpm labeled PTO to indicate 540rpm at the PTO. As stated earlier JD uses 23CC pumps on their 45 & 60 PTO HP tractors. 25CC should be fine. Especially at PTO and lower than PTO rpm.

Pictures of your loader valve so someone can point out the relief valve on it. Usually be under a cap that screws off, similar to an acorn nut.

Looks like you are prying on 1 against 4

I'll bet you could sell those cab "halos" if you went into production. (y) 🤠 Did you add the D rings? Are they to tie down while hauling? Is that a Yamaha Viking hiding behind it in the first picture?

That's why I listed my 2030 PTO HP. To let you know what size pump was used for that HP. The 45PTO HP JD 1530 also uses a 23 CM3 pump, but no optional larger pump was offered. I usually run 1500 rpm for loader use, so I am at about 75% of rated flow, so at PTO speed of 540rpm, about the same as...

Very Tempting! Which island? As long as it's not all work and no play. A 4020 seems way too big for orchard work. What does the used tractor market have to offer in Hawaii?

I have a 78 F250 with stock under powered 400. Mine also has Dana 60 front and rear

I agree, pushing gravel with your Mule is a bad idea.

Certain transmissions should NOT be pulled or push started. Confirm it's OK to pull start BEFORE attempting.

JD 750 has open center hydraulics, PB sleeve will be needed

My JD 2030 has 1.38 cubic inch pump which equals 23 CM3 so approximately 1.2 times larger than 19 CM3 pump. It produces 9.5 GPM at 2100 rpm. There is an optional pump, 2.40 cubic inch, 50 CM3, that produces 18.5 GPM at 2100 rpm Once you determine your pumps rpm, you can compare to these numbers...

I looked in JD parts and could not find it. You may have to trace the wires from the switch, or hoses from the cylinder that engages MFWD back to a control valve.

I want to see more pictures of the Ford Truck! Looks like an F250 with explorer package? I can't tell the year from the rear. From the condition, I'll bet you're not in the rust belt like me. A friend had two Honda three wheelers. They were stolen last year. Police found them. They had been...

No worries

I went by the serial number he posted

Which drive does yours have? I've only seen the one shown in the last drawing in post #4

I did the same when I added third function to my JD 6415 mid valve. A pair on the loader for a grapple and a pair to the rear for?

I see you already found it. 6.5gpm was without power steering 13gpm was with power steering 23.5gpm was an option, which I doubt not very many, if any had.

JD used three different pump drives. I have #3 on my 2030, (last drawing) for it, remove the two coupler halves key 6. Then you can remove the belt. Check the rubber bushings, key 5, replace if worn.

I was thinking bolt one side of the hinge to the floor and loosely attach the other side to the pedal (so it can slide, but not flip back). I had not thought about doing it the opposite way. Is the heavier spring tiring?

Do you have room to pound the pin forward? Not to get it out, but break loose with a more direct hit(s)?

Spec is .004 to 010" clearance. So you have a lot of wear.

Search Throttle Maxx to see the hinge-to-floor-to pedal

How bad is the pin? I would think/hope the bushing was the "wear" part.

It does sound like they go the spring or ratios wrong. Maybe a hinge mounted to the floor and other side of the hinge a plate that goes up and covers the throttle pedal, would give better control?

I am guessing aftermarket temp gauge. On my 2030 the temp gauge has no numbers. Typical is one to two needle widths to the left of straight up. Red zone is to far right.

I would not worry about what you took off the bottom. If cutting brush, you want about 1/16" or more flat edge to "shred" the brush, not make clean cuts. If only grass/weeds, they can be sharper. Remember this is for rough cutting, it's not a finish mower.

Check wiring to the solenoid for mfwd and the solenoid.

No kit, you have to buy separate. Be sure to check/clean the suction screen in the transmission, get a new packing key 2 also.

Start a new thread for this. Some one that knows may not see it in Hydraulics.

It might be the splines in your pressure plate that drive the shaft that drives the transmission pump that failed. These splines stripped out in my JD 2030. The local dealer service manager told me he has seen this before. A clutch housing to engine split is easier/less costly to do than a...

I would remove the front pump coupler to be safe. I ASSUME you do NOT have HI-LO or Reverser transmission. If you have either of those transmissions, their clutch are pressurized by the transmission. So if you either of those transmission options DO NOT DRIVE IT!

I think the crossover relief valve would be worth the investment. You already found out how easy it was to bend a cylinder rod. You said you did not even feel it happen. I know Woods use them on some of their blades (probably an option) Since you need another cylinder, get at least the rod...

Your axle should have serial number tag from the maker.

I am going to say the scraping with bucket dumped as you described (perpendicular) damaged the cylinder seals. You should back drag at 45° or less. Yes, you can also bend cylinder rods too.

I had the splines of the pressure plate (which drives the transmission pump) on my JD 2030 fail. New pressure plate fixed it.

Unless way under market price, I would pass.

If you can determine the gear ratio of the gear box, you should be able to calculate blade speed. Best would be pull top cover (if it has one) from the gear box and count the gear teeth, drive and driven.

Are you sure no oil in the sight glass? Trans/hydraulic oil can be so clear it's hard to see.

Not much you can do about windrows from tires flattening it first, other than recut, sometimes from the opposite direction. How fast do you mow? I know time is money, but slower might give better results. Are you cutting with the rear of the deck about 1"higher than the front? That's the norm...

No experience, but TM (tech manual) says to drive the pin out. Sounds like a big hammer job.

Check the pressure regulating valve of the reverser control valve. It uses shims to set the pressure. It sends excess oil to the oil cooler. Your tech manual should tell what pressure should be. I am thinking 150psi?

I don't think the weight would be problem. The size might be. a 7' single spindle is large mower. Woods is good brand. I do like their blade retaining system.

Here's the Carraro axle

Which front axle do you have? Carraro or Dana? Drawing is Dana, does it show parts you want?

I was guessing pull the pin when I looked it up in JD parts. I bought and added the single point coupler. I made the mount and had to adapt my loader hoses from JIC to ORFS. It cost me about $600

The JD P/N is GY20878 $150.00

I am glad you're not cleaning your tires on roads I drive. Then I would have dirty truck to wash.

Try Messick's 1-877-260-3528 There are fittings listed a -14 JIC, I can't tell which hose you need, maybe you can from the drawing? Drawing is from Messick's You can get -14 female swivel JIC crimp on hose ends to have hoses made from hydraulic supply companies.

Single point, or Multi-coupler is a great addition if you take your loader off and on a lot. Both of my tractors have one. Both are 3rd function equipped, so it saves dealing with six quick couplers.

You lift key 15 to release the extensions of the 3pt lower link/arm

Here's a drawing from parts. Note, there is a spacer too. Top link connects to key 3 and they should be free to pivot as stated in post#2

The contraption I made was two female quick couplers mounted on the lid for 5 gallon bucket. I connect my grapple lines to it when the grapple is off.

Good choice! I'd like to trade my JD 2030 for 5X25 series.

It sounds like coolant is getting into the oil. I would think if it's the head gasket, you would be losing coolant, but it would be forced out the exhaust. I am thinking water pump seal or gasket.

I use a factory rear SCV for my grapple. It has two female quick couplers, standard for tractors. I use colored tie wraps and colored dust caps to "color" code which hose connects where. I connect my hoses opposite how k0ua does. It seems more natural/intuitive to move the SCV lever forward to...