dodge man
Super Star Member
If the ground wire is really just grounded to the battery tray try somewhere else. That’s a terrible place to ground to. Did you pull fuses and check them?
Put in a new Battery, got nothin' - I am not dumb, but maybe I'm not bright?
- Thread starter FreddyFlynn
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OP
FreddyFlynn
Member
Just got back in here is an update:
Pulled every fuse, all looked find, still intact.
Checked for the plastic around the plugs, none found, posts are clean.
Got a Multimeter from AutoZone, set it to DC, pulled in a 12.63 which is a good result.
I wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again.
Everything I inspected checks out.
I still have zero dashboard activity. This is the weirdest thing I have had to deal with in awhile. And I own a jeep prone to death wobble. All of the ideas you all have had are great. The only thing I havent done yet is jump it, and the reason is because if I am getting charge on the test, I should at least get some light to turn on somewhere.
Pulled every fuse, all looked find, still intact.
Checked for the plastic around the plugs, none found, posts are clean.
Got a Multimeter from AutoZone, set it to DC, pulled in a 12.63 which is a good result.
I wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again.
Everything I inspected checks out.
I still have zero dashboard activity. This is the weirdest thing I have had to deal with in awhile. And I own a jeep prone to death wobble. All of the ideas you all have had are great. The only thing I havent done yet is jump it, and the reason is because if I am getting charge on the test, I should at least get some light to turn on somewhere.
Sprinkler Fitter
Platinum Member
It’s not in gear is it?
Not sure about your tractor but my New Holland has a main 40 amp fuse by starter plus fuses in fuse block. If 40 amp blows entire tractor is dead. Maybe check manual to see if a main fuse in another location
OP
FreddyFlynn
Member
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
So check continuity from the negative post of the battery to the point where the negative cable is connected to the battery tray. If good, check from the negative post to a bolt or bare metal bracket on the engine. Both should be good.
or, you can check for voltage from the positive post to the ground points. Either way, you're just working your way down the circuit and checking that wires of ok.
Check for voltage from the negative post on the battery to the other end of the positive battery cable. If you still have 12+ volts you know that cable is good.
If those basic tests indicate cables are ok, and nothing happens when you turn the key, I'd start looking at the key switch.
Wasn't everything working ok before you changed the battery?
or, you can check for voltage from the positive post to the ground points. Either way, you're just working your way down the circuit and checking that wires of ok.
Check for voltage from the negative post on the battery to the other end of the positive battery cable. If you still have 12+ volts you know that cable is good.
If those basic tests indicate cables are ok, and nothing happens when you turn the key, I'd start looking at the key switch.
Wasn't everything working ok before you changed the battery?
OP
FreddyFlynn
Member
Ok so I read about that here (attached) but maybe it was snowing too hard or whatever but I couldnt find it - I was 100% traveling down this path of thought
OP
FreddyFlynn
Member
It was starting slowly which is why I changed it out - so ok is a good word but I could tell the battery/charge/power was waning.
Fuddyduddy1952
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A helper would be good. Fill in the blank: (first one is filled out).
1) meter across battery ____12.63V___V
2) meter across battery cranking______V
3) " " " headlights on _______V
4) meter black neg lead grounded to engine or frame, red pos lead battery ground _________V
5) same as above but cranking or lights on______V
6) step 4&5 above should be 0v or close. If not, you have a bad ground. If it's zero, voltage at other end pos. battery cable (starter), there to ground _________V.
7) meter still at starter, try cranking or lights ___________V.
8) last step is main power lead there to fuse block.
1) meter across battery ____12.63V___V
2) meter across battery cranking______V
3) " " " headlights on _______V
4) meter black neg lead grounded to engine or frame, red pos lead battery ground _________V
5) same as above but cranking or lights on______V
6) step 4&5 above should be 0v or close. If not, you have a bad ground. If it's zero, voltage at other end pos. battery cable (starter), there to ground _________V.
7) meter still at starter, try cranking or lights ___________V.
8) last step is main power lead there to fuse block.
Mtsoxfan
Veteran Member
I agree with finding the main fuse, inline, but visible. Had one blow on my nh tc29d once. I think a faulty starter relay was the culprit. Changed them both, after diagnosing faulty relay.
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
Thanks.
Right. Sounds like your battery was weak but when you turned the key, things happened. You'd think a new battery would be in order and everything would work even better.
What did you mean when you said "you had a guy put in the plugs"??
Is it possible that the battery cables got put on the new battery backward? And then corrected? That might blow the "main fuse" or fusible link. Seems like something else must have happened. Did anything get shorted out during the battery swap? Like did a wrench get shorted across the battery posts and throw sparks or did the wrench touch the frame (ground) while tightening the positive cable (and cause a spark)?
We hate mysteries just as much as you do. Just brainstorming now. . .
If the battery tray is really the ground source I would jumper a wire from the neg side of the battery to ground somewhere close to the battery and see if the dash or lights work.
Since you have lost "all" power the most likely culprit would be a bad ground from the battery = NO POWER or the positive main fuse is blown = NO POWER.
Since you have lost "all" power the most likely culprit would be a bad ground from the battery = NO POWER or the positive main fuse is blown = NO POWER.
CH4Ohio
Veteran Member
Definitely need to find that fuse and test it with your new meter. Should be right there on the end of a modular plug as shown in the picture behing the alternator.
SPYDERLK
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There is another possibility to explore. In my life I have had 2 new batteries that measured correct V with no load, but collapsed to virtually Zero with only a small load. Im talking about maybe a Watt or two -- fractional amp load.
I took them back of course. The only thing I can think of is there was a cracked internal buss conductor and acid sufficed to bridge the crack sufficient for a few milliamps - plenty for a voltmeter. If this condition exists it will behoove us to find the characteristic early and stop. I can imagine tiny sparks happening in a Hydrogen - Oxygen environ. (EEK)
Last edited:
4570Man
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I would check the battery cable where it bolts into the starter and see if it has voltage there. While you’re checking the starter for voltage have a helper attempt to start the tractor while you continue watching the volt meter. I keep some alligator clips in the toolbox so I can do this part by myself. In the absence of having a load tester measuring voltage while attempting to start it should always be one of the first steps in troubleshooting. I doubt bad battery cables are the issue in your situation but I check voltage directly at the battery post while attempting to start and again at the starter terminal.
There should be a smaller wire that powers the accessories. Since I can’t see it hooking directly to the battery it’s likely it shares the starter terminal with the big wire. I’d check the small wire for voltage. And by small wire it’s likely 6-10 gauge but smaller than the main battery cable. I doubt this small wire has any voltage but if it does I’d move on to checking the key switch. At least one wire on the back of the key switch should have constant voltage.
There should be a smaller wire that powers the accessories. Since I can’t see it hooking directly to the battery it’s likely it shares the starter terminal with the big wire. I’d check the small wire for voltage. And by small wire it’s likely 6-10 gauge but smaller than the main battery cable. I doubt this small wire has any voltage but if it does I’d move on to checking the key switch. At least one wire on the back of the key switch should have constant voltage.
4570Man
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Considering the tractor was working before I doubt the key switch is broken. I wouldn’t suspect that the battery is the problem either since it did have good voltage. I kinda doubt the battery cables are at fault either since the dash won’t even light. I would turn my attention to a blown fuse at this point in the investigation.
Pinecrest
Member
If you have Jumper Cables , try and Jump the battery,
I always have a New Boat Battery & Cables ...surprising how many times they have bailed me out / like the Test Light it will always tell you if battery is OK [$6 Amazon ]
I always have a New Boat Battery & Cables ...surprising how many times they have bailed me out / like the Test Light it will always tell you if battery is OK [$6 Amazon ]
dstriplett
Bronze Member
New battery is going to have to be charged. Is it serviceable? If so did you add the electrolyte and check the fluid levels?
Avenger
Veteran Member
I just read the entire thread, what a ride!
Tractor was working fine, but battery was getting weak. Replacement of the battery before the cold winter is a great idea! However, when the battery was replaced, there is no apparent electrical activity. All the usual troubleshooting steps have been performed, except for one.
OP stated that he "...wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again." but did not take the chassis ground OFF and cleaned the area to bare metal... unless I missed it somewhere.
This is such a common issue with these tractors. It happened to me as well! It recently happened to a friend of mine who called me to figure out this EXACT situation on his Mahindra. He even claimed he checked the ground at the chassis, it was tight and clean. But he failed to take it off, and clean it. That was the problem.
Take the bolt out of the cable where the negative cable contacts the metal frame. Use sand paper, an angle grinder, a file, wire brush, something, to take the rust, paint, coatings, whatever off. Make sure you clean the cable end as well. Clean the bolt too! Reassemble and check it.
If this does not work, then it is likely a blown fuse. But also consider using a load tester on the battery (a multimeter is great for many different things, but to check the health of a battery, a load tester must be used.)
Tractor was working fine, but battery was getting weak. Replacement of the battery before the cold winter is a great idea! However, when the battery was replaced, there is no apparent electrical activity. All the usual troubleshooting steps have been performed, except for one.
OP stated that he "...wiggled, tightened, and loosened every connection, then tightened them again." but did not take the chassis ground OFF and cleaned the area to bare metal... unless I missed it somewhere.
This is such a common issue with these tractors. It happened to me as well! It recently happened to a friend of mine who called me to figure out this EXACT situation on his Mahindra. He even claimed he checked the ground at the chassis, it was tight and clean. But he failed to take it off, and clean it. That was the problem.
Take the bolt out of the cable where the negative cable contacts the metal frame. Use sand paper, an angle grinder, a file, wire brush, something, to take the rust, paint, coatings, whatever off. Make sure you clean the cable end as well. Clean the bolt too! Reassemble and check it.
If this does not work, then it is likely a blown fuse. But also consider using a load tester on the battery (a multimeter is great for many different things, but to check the health of a battery, a load tester must be used.)
