Dig septic bed with front end loader

[wacnstac]

Im not sure what you mean by septic beds. If your referring to infiltrator beds, there popular up my way. My system is like the one pictured, its 29 years strong. It was covered using large excavator. We dont drive over it with anything larger than lawn mower.View attachment 3534353

See my earlier post. My Infiltrator system was only 12 years old, used seasonally, and was almost completely filled with sand.

 

[olenjohn]

Scrap the pipe and stone bed system. Install an “Infiltrator” drainage dome system. Installation is simple, no truck loads of stone and should be on a smaller footprint.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Is the spoil clean enough to sell? If so a contractor may be willing to trade some or all of the excavation work for the sand that is removed. In my neck of the woods sand brings a pretty good price.

 

[dodge man]

Scrap the pipe and stone bed system. Install an “Infiltrator” drainage dome system. Installation is simple, no truck loads of stone and should be on a smaller footprint.

The post above yours he said he had that system and it failed.

 

[rider89]

Hello, I am faced with digging a rectangular septic bed with size of 14' x 40'. Inspector requires open bed as opposed to trenches. All I have is a Kubota 2650 with FEL. Not sure a backhoe (at least ones without a lot of size) would be of much help anyway with a bed.

I do have a box blade with scarifiers to loosen up the top soil and grass.

The soil is pure sand. Anyone tackle such a project with a FEL? I know I will need a ramp to get down the desired depth. I don't know how long the ramp will need to be. I'm really stressed about keeping this level with a FEL. I suppose I could use the box blade to help with that.

Getting the rocks and the backfill in around the pipes is another story!

There are so many videos on YouTube on doing this with trenches but I can't find any with an open bed design.

I would treat it as a simple trench. Drag dirt with the blade past the end of the bed and when the spoils pile up too much to drive over, use the FEL to move the spoils out of the way. Lots of passes needed, but you'd be able to keep the bottom plane flat and tidy. you didn't divulge the important dimension (the depth) but your spoils pile will probably get pretty large. Unless you have a lot of time to invest, I would instead get a local guy with a medium to heavy skidsteer. He'd have it done in a few hours and it wouldn't cost all that much

 

[5030]

Reading the thread, my only comment is, quit trying to be cheap and have a professional do it. You lack the equipment to do it and if it's sand like you say, the more you remove to get to depth, the more the it will fall in.

All you will accomplish is beating up your tractor and burn a bunch of diesel fuel.

Some tasks are better left to people with the right equipment and experience.

 

[aircommuter]

When I was in the grading and undergrad business we dug similar pits for storm water retention. They were filled with drain rock. Pretty similar. The ones I did were 5’ deep and 50x80. Plus other sizes would come up. I used my Case 855D loader. I have dug swimming pools with the same machine. Pretty fast and I could take the dirt further away when needed.

 

[5030]

When I was in the grading and undergrad business we dug similar pits for storm water retention. They were filled with drain rock. Pretty similar. The ones I did were 5’ deep and 50x80. Plus other sizes would come up. I used my Case 855D loader. I have dug swimming pools with the same machine. Pretty fast and I could take the dirt further away when needed.

Night and day difference between a wheeled loader and a small tractor.

 

[rScotty]

When I was in the grading and undergrad business we dug similar pits for storm water retention. They were filled with drain rock. Pretty similar. The ones I did were 5’ deep and 50x80. Plus other sizes would come up. I used my Case 855D loader. I have dug swimming pools with the same machine. Pretty fast and I could take the dirt further away when needed.

What would be a ballpark charge for using an 855D for digging the OP's pit in sand? 14'x40'x24" deep.

The post above yours he said he had that system and it failed.

Infiltrator systems have their tricks like anything else. Infiltrators are usually better. Sounds like his was an installation failure, not an infiltrator failure.

 

[Lavender Valley]

The "septic bed" can be designed so there is soakage and evaporation; the soak pipe is only 6 to 10 inches deep. Here, we can lay the soak pipe on the ground with flaxes and grasses that help clean the water. If the septic is set up with multiple chambers, the water that comes out of the end of the soak pipe theoretically can be used to drink. I am not that brave, but it does look clean.

 

[Doorman63]

Septic variations around the country are interesting.

Our “city” house has standard sewage thru the city.

Our “country” house has a tank outside with an air pump. Aerobic system I believe. You can hear it bubbling if you walk close to it

 

[5030]

The "septic bed" can be designed so there is soakage and evaporation; the soak pipe is only 6 to 10 inches deep. Here, we can lay the soak pipe on the ground with flaxes and grasses that help clean the water. If the septic is set up with multiple chambers, the water that comes out of the end of the soak pipe theoretically can be used to drink. I am not that brave, but it does look clean.

'Soak pipe' is an interesting term...lol

Never heard perforated leach field pipe called that. In reality (at least here), a properly working septic tank decomposes the effeluent from the commodes and wastewater and breaks it down and the leach field distributes the remaining wastewater over a wide area, so long as the area can absorb it. Why the area has to 'Perk' or percolate and if it don't, an engineered field (above grade) with a lift pump, has to be installed. We are fortunate that our ground perks. Engineered fields are very expensive to install and in my opinion are unsightly as well.

 

[etpm]

That's what I'm replacing. I would never recommend that junk to my worst enemy. Mine are only 12 years old, only used seasonally, and are almost entirely filled with sand.

In order to do chambers so they won't fail, I would recommend stainless steel chicken wire underneath to prevent burrowing animals from messing with them (don't think this was my problem), and geo fabric over the top to prevent sand infiltration (maybe that's why they call them infiltrators, lol), from the top. If you are going to do all of that, just use the old school pipe and rocks and get something that will last!

About 20 years ago I installed my own septic system. Where I live, Island County WA, standard gravity septic systems had to be of the infiltrator type when I installed my system. I check my system now and then by looking into inspection pipes that stick out of the infiltrators. The inside looks the same as it did when I first installed the system. The dirt inside the chambers is undisturbed.I can't imagine how sand or dirt could get through the infiltrators. As I recall the infiltrators are just these plastic clam shell things with some perforations. I don't remember putting any sort of filter cloth over the infiltrators, but I may have. Do you know if there is something I should be looking out for to prevent the problem you had? When I installed my system I had never even sat on a backhoe and had to learn how to dig a flat and level ditch. I asked the guy who installed my first septic system for advice and he told me to get a 10 foot length of ditch flat and level and then use that as a reference for the next 10 feet and so on. I used a laser level on a tripod and a rake with the handle marked every 1/2 inch with a line drawn with a Sharpie. I would just get the laser to shine on the rake handle and I would use a rake and shovel to take down the high spots. I was not allowed to add material to make the ditches flat and level.
Eric

 

[Steelphoenix]

Hello, I am faced with digging a rectangular septic bed with size of 14' x 40'. Inspector requires open bed as opposed to trenches. All I have is a Kubota 2650 with FEL. Not sure a backhoe (at least ones without a lot of size) would be of much help anyway with a bed.

I do have a box blade with scarifiers to loosen up the top soil and grass.

The soil is pure sand. Anyone tackle such a project with a FEL? I know I will need a ramp to get down the desired depth. I don't know how long the ramp will need to be. I'm really stressed about keeping this level with a FEL. I suppose I could use the box blade to help with that.

Getting the rocks and the backfill in around the pipes is another story!

There are so many videos on YouTube on doing this with trenches but I can't find any with an open bed design.

I found that my FEL didn't dig very well in undisturbed soil... Until I added a tooth bar. Now it is acceptable for occasional digging. Just don't expect D9 performance, take small (1-2 inch) skim bites and it will do the job.
Kubota L3710 Grand

 

[wacnstac]

I found that my FEL didn't dig very well in undisturbed soil... Until I added a tooth bar. Now it is acceptable for occasional digging. Just don't expect D9 performance, take small (1-2 inch) skim bites and it will do the job.
Kubota L3710 Grand

I have a box blade with scarifiers. That should help.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Before the days of laser-leveling devices, folks used a line and level...and accomplished the task at hand. I think that on sand, working slowly and very deliberately, you will end up with a decent job. Good luck and send some pictures of the project as it's going--I might have to do it myself at some point.

 

[aircommuter]

Night and day difference between a wheeled loader and a small tractor.

The "septic bed" can be designed so there is soakage and evaporation; the soak pipe is only 6 to 10 inches deep. Here, we can lay the soak pipe on the ground with flaxes and grasses that help clean the water. If the septic is set up with multiple chambers, the water that comes out of the end of the soak pipe theoretically can be used to drink. I am not that brave, but it does look clean.

What would be a ballpark charge for using an 855D for digging the OP's pit in sand? 14'x40'x24" deep.

Infiltrator systems have their tricks like anything else. Infiltrators are usually better. Sounds like his was an installation failure, not an infiltrator failure.

Probably take a good 1-1/2 hours. Not sure of the rates in that area. Likely a minimum charge for either operated or machine rental. One must consider what their time is worth when doing jobs.

 

[rScotty]

Septic variations around the country are interesting.

Our “city” house has standard sewage thru the city.

Our “country” house has a tank outside with an air pump. Aerobic system I believe. You can hear it bubbling if you walk close to it

Some rural system are designed aerobically but most not. The same goes for most any type of water purification using sand bed infiltration. The difference is that the forced air systems will digest faster. That can affect the tank size and dwell time requirements.

 

[Torvy]

Around here, rental equipment would run $250-300 a day, delivered. (Skid, wheel or mini-ex)

We have sandy loam. The septic runs to a couple of sprinkler heads that spread the grey water on the surface. (into the woods)

The vast majority of what goes in is water...laundry, shower, etc.

 

[jimux]

Reading the thread, my only comment is, quit trying to be cheap and have a professional do it. You lack the equipment to do it and if it's sand like you say, the more you remove to get to depth, the more the it will fall in.

All you will accomplish is beating up your tractor and burn a bunch of diesel fuel.

Some tasks are better left to people with the right equipment and experience.

I would dig ruts, put pipe down, cover it with gravel and run a pipe to closest ditch. Who’d ever know?
BE A MAN!