Tractor or skid steer? Just bought 150 acres.

[Dadnatron]

I did what you want to do, but on about 85ac.

I did it almost all, with a JD 5100E with FEL.

However, I rented a D7 dozer to cut a road and do some more dirt work. I’d never been in one before they dropped it off in my field. Watch some videos, and do work in your property LONG BEFORE you go to the driveway and entrance. You can do it with a big enough dozer in a week. Size matters, especially in a dozer.

I’m doing this all again, and want a BIGGER tractor for the job, as I strained that 5100E. I’m also looking at splitting the work between a CTL and another tractor for pulling (tractor) work.

I bought a post driver… and it’s MUCH harder than you think. It’s the time… the time you’d likely be able to better spend at your ‘career job’ and pay someone else to do. It’s good to have one for fixing things or adding a few posts… but you WON’T be able to fence 150ac yourself. Hire out the critical paddocks and add the rest as $ comes in.

Finally, if you are able to get it all seeded and need it hayed, share out the work for part of the hay. I would hire the hay out, and I kept what I wanted. You should get 1/2 the hay off your placed stacked for you, in recompense for the hay man taking the rest. It’ll cost you nothing.

 

[mikester]

jealous?

Jealous of watching a slow motion train wreck?

 

[Sonny580]

SKIDDER and never look back!!! Tractor loaders are USELESS!

 

[Skypuppy]

jealous?

Well,*I* am!

 

[Yander]

Midwest. Soil on the farm is very high quality - mostly Maury and McAfee silt.

The plan is to skim off the top 4-6'' and grade it so that the driveway will be predominately flat (side to side).

Will put down driveway fabric before the gravel goes down.

I talked with a neighbor who installed his driveway about 20 years ago. He has to put new gravel down every 4-5 years because it keeps sinking. He never put down fabric and for some reason doesn't think it would help.

You don't need a dozer for a drive. I could put that drive in with the tiller and a box blade in a day with the size tractor you have mentioned.

Edit: I just noticed half mile. Ok not in a day. But you could do it with those two items. Then sell the tiller when you're done.

 

[pecans]

This is an excellent question. I may duplicate some information,, please forgive, but do add what you know is missed.

All equipment has a design purpose. This is often centered around how the frame is put together.

Tractors were designed to pull ground engaging equipment. They have a PTO to transfer their power to another piece of equipment. They typically use a clutch to achieve movement.

Skid steers are designed to maneuver and turn in small spaces as well as changing directions constantly. They use hydraulics instead of clutches. Most are made to lift and dig - check their manual for design criteria.

Bulldozers are designed to push and use hydraulics for locomotion in a similar manner of Skid Steers. They can typically tow ground engaging equipment well. Generally no ability to transfer their power.

Backhoes / Loaders are made to endure twisting and other stresses. Wow.


Think this through.... While almost anything can be done with almost any piece of equipment with good judgement, bad judgement will quickly destroy a good piece of equipment.

- Changing directions / starts and stops often with clutch use are not the occasional use a clutch is designed for. They can overheat and "burn out". That means an expensive replacement which requires the tractor front and rear be spit apart. There are also dry vs wet (longer life and abuse) clutches. Discuss with your mechanic.

- Lifting items and digging puts completely different stresses on the frame. Digging can twist a frame in all sorts of directions. Lifting puts a tremendous stress on the Front end.

- Putting a backhoe on a standard tractor (digging) and using it hard or often and you can break the bolts or worse holding the front to the back. (some companies make a frame add on to compensate and have designed a back hoe to match.)

- Pushing (dozing) with a tractor other than lightly can break metal in all sorts of ways.

etc.

Summary... Any piece of equipment designed to do one task generally has some overlap which can help for rare tasks or starting out etc. if used gently and with good observation.

As many folks have pointed out, some tasks are better with the occasional rented equipment (costs less than repairing yours) or a quality hired person.


I used a 37.5 HP tractor to do everything on hundreds of acres starting out. I learned the hard way and learned to listen as well. I did this for a long long time and learned when to be careful etc. A good decision for my operation.
I now own 5 units of various purposes and some of them don't get used often..... I have them because I could afford them at the cost point offered and understood their needs to stay in good working order. They are all older with no electronics etc.

Ask around to others why they have the equipment they have. Ask positive attitude, well informed people their equipment strategies.

Then develop your own and learn what you did right and what you did wrong.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

I came here to echo what I've already seen.

Your plan is no plan. It is a failure of thought. None of your first post will work like you describe. This is not a situation you can afford to be in right now.

Come up with a more realistic plan.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

You don't need a dozer for a drive. I could put that drive in with the tiller and a box blade in a day with the size tractor you have mentioned.

Edit: I just noticed half mile. Ok not in a day. But you could do it with those two items. Then sell the tiller when you're done.

A tiller? Talk about a bad plan. Using a harrow and then a bb is how it should be done. I wouldn't dream of attempting that with a tiller.

 

[4570Man]

A tiller? Talk about a bad plan. Using a harrow and then a bb is how it should be done. I wouldn't dream of attempting that with a tiller.

A tiller is one of the best ways to strip topsoil without a dozer. It’s way easier to scoop up the topsoil and maintain depth after it’s broke up with a tiller. It’s also a lot more usable when it’s broke up vs in big clods like a dozer makes when it’s pushed off.

 

[MechanicalGuy]

A tiller is one of the best ways to strip topsoil without a dozer. It’s way easier to scoop up the topsoil and maintain depth after it’s broke up with a tiller. It’s also a lot more usable when it’s broke up vs in big clods like a dozer makes when it’s pushed off.

It don't deal with rocky soil. I can't believe I have to actually say that. Not to mention there are so many vines it would entangle a tiller in minutes.

A tiller wouldn't last a half hour making roads around here.

A harrow does great. Less to mess up too when rocks are encountered.

 

[wcampbell47]

I need help figuring out what to buy!

Please tell me what YOU would do! And how YOU would approach this project.

We just bought a 150 acre farm (all crop land). All of it is rolling hills - nothing terribly steep, but not flat either.

In the next year or so, I need to:
1. Cut and grade an entrance from the road (about 50 ft of wooded area next to the road). Need to install culvert, etc. for road access.
2. Grade and install a 1/2 mile long driveway. Everything except the entrance is through the middle of a field - rolling hills - with 1 extra culvert needed
3. Grade a 60'x120' pad for our barn.
4. Clear 2.5 miles of fence line that is currently extremely overgrown honeysuckle (think 50 years of honeysuckle growth)
5. Pound about 1200 5-6'' round posts into the ground (quoted over $70k just to pound the posts, so I'll be doing this myself.)
6. Standard maintenance of pasture - so mow about 150 acres

We plan to hire someone to come in and seed hay - so roundup and a seed drill. We plan to hire that job out to someone who knows exactly what they are doing. Currently all weeds, so will hopefully be pasture and hay fields by this time next year.

But the big question:
Do I buy a tractor or a skid steer (with tracks, so a track loader)? And buying one thing - keeping it for a year to complete all of the above jobs - and then selling it and buying something different - is something I am willing to do.

Budget of about $35-40k, including any needed attachments.

I can buy a track loader for about $30k, a bush hog for $4k, and a post pounder for $4k - and be comfortably under my $40k max. Going this route means I wouldn't be able to harvest my own hay, etc until I sell the track loader and buy a tractor. And bush hogging 150 acres with a track loader is going to be rough.

Alternatively, I spend $30k on a newer 60-70 hp tractor with a loader, $5k on a post pounder, $5k on a bush hog - and be right at my max. I would probably need to rent a bulldozer or track loader to do the driveway, etc - which would be about $2000/week. No idea if I can get it done in one week or not, but my guess is closer to 2 weeks.

And it might actually be better if I buy a cheap dozer ($10k?) and sell it when I am done with it. Then buy the tractor after I sell the dozer.

I need help making a decision! Any and all advice appreciated!

Ask yourself just how qualified you are for the tasks to be completed. As a contractor I have noted many DIY projects in my area. In most cases I have calculated that as a contractor I could have done the project at my normal rate and saved the DIY person money.

Most guys can drive a tractor with a few hours in the seat. But putting the correct amount and type of material down and then doing a finish grade takes a level of expertise you don't gain in a few hours seat time. I strive to find the best material for a project at the lowest price. If you don't have experience with material it is easy to make a mistake.

 

[wcampbell47]

I need help figuring out what to buy!

Please tell me what YOU would do! And how YOU would approach this project.

We just bought a 150 acre farm (all crop land). All of it is rolling hills - nothing terribly steep, but not flat either.

In the next year or so, I need to:
1. Cut and grade an entrance from the road (about 50 ft of wooded area next to the road). Need to install culvert, etc. for road access.
2. Grade and install a 1/2 mile long driveway. Everything except the entrance is through the middle of a field - rolling hills - with 1 extra culvert needed
3. Grade a 60'x120' pad for our barn.
4. Clear 2.5 miles of fence line that is currently extremely overgrown honeysuckle (think 50 years of honeysuckle growth)
5. Pound about 1200 5-6'' round posts into the ground (quoted over $70k just to pound the posts, so I'll be doing this myself.)
6. Standard maintenance of pasture - so mow about 150 acres

We plan to hire someone to come in and seed hay - so roundup and a seed drill. We plan to hire that job out to someone who knows exactly what they are doing. Currently all weeds, so will hopefully be pasture and hay fields by this time next year.

But the big question:
Do I buy a tractor or a skid steer (with tracks, so a track loader)? And buying one thing - keeping it for a year to complete all of the above jobs - and then selling it and buying something different - is something I am willing to do.

Budget of about $35-40k, including any needed attachments.

I can buy a track loader for about $30k, a bush hog for $4k, and a post pounder for $4k - and be comfortably under my $40k max. Going this route means I wouldn't be able to harvest my own hay, etc until I sell the track loader and buy a tractor. And bush hogging 150 acres with a track loader is going to be rough.

Alternatively, I spend $30k on a newer 60-70 hp tractor with a loader, $5k on a post pounder, $5k on a bush hog - and be right at my max. I would probably need to rent a bulldozer or track loader to do the driveway, etc - which would be about $2000/week. No idea if I can get it done in one week or not, but my guess is closer to 2 weeks.

And it might actually be better if I buy a cheap dozer ($10k?) and sell it when I am done with it. Then buy the tractor after I sell the dozer.

I need help making a decision! Any and all advice appreciated!

You seem to be allocating a lot of cash for "used" equipment. There are several tractor brands of tractors that can be purchased for $0 down and $0 interest. I have purchased 3 such 4 wheel drive tractors and 2 compact track loaders. A good credit score goes a long way. Use your cash for material costs like road gravel and fencing.

 

[Gord Baker]

I don't think you realize how large a property 150 Acres is.
Certainly you would need a Mid sized Tractor possibly 4x4 with Cab, FEL, live PTO and other accessories. Prioritize. Ask locals about making a hay crop. Proper seed is very expensive. Air drop? Farm out most of it - cutting, raking and baling by Share Cropper.
Why would you need Fencing for a Hay Crop?
Leave the Laneway to Professionals and carefully plan route and width and type of materials. Ditto with the Fence if you must have one. I believe you could turn around a purchase a Farm already set up with the buildings and equipment you need. You made a quick decision I believe, so sit back and review a realistic plan.

 

[yanmars]

150 acres is near a 1/4 section or almost 1/2 mile by 1/2 mile. A pretty good sized piece of real estate

 

[Gord Baker]

A Section is 1 Mile Square, 640 Acres. ½ mile x ½ mile is 160 acres.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

I don't think you realize how large a property 150 Acres is.
Certainly you would need a Mid sized Tractor possibly 4x4 with Cab, FEL, live PTO and other accessories. Prioritize. Ask locals about making a hay crop. Proper seed is very expensive. Air drop? Farm out most of it - cutting, raking and baling by Share Cropper.
Why would you need Fencing for a Hay Crop?
Leave the Laneway to Professionals and carefully plan route and width and type of materials. Ditto with the Fence if you must have one. I believe you could turn around a purchase a Farm already set up with the buildings and equipment you need. You made a quick decision I believe, so sit back and review a realistic plan.

I believe he has probably figured it out by now since his thread was revived from about 19 months ago .