Help Me Design/ Build a Shop

[Been there]

Just some general thoughts - - - -
1.) Layout. How much space will be used primarily for 'dry storage' of miscellaneous stuff, just getting stuff out of the weather, providing security for stuff, etc.? How much space will be used for machinery such as table saw, drill press, weld bench, work benches, machine tools, etc.? How much space for projects, vehicles, parking equipment securely and out of the weather?
2.) How much work do you want to do in inclement weather? Heat in the winter, cooling in the summer? It can be expensive to heat the entire space when you may only need to heat/cool a relatively small portion of the space. I can't imagine energy costs getting cheaper. Have you considered a smaller heavily insulated work space within the larger structure? Insulation is a 'cheap' investment which you pay for once and which pays you back every time you have to heat or cool the space. In our area it usually gets cool at night, even on the hottest days. A big exhaust fan mounted in the gable peak and hooked up to a timer works to cool down a barn overnight. And having a large door on each end of the barn allows for great ventilation if there is any breeze.
3.) Access. What needs to go through the doors? CUTs? Modest sized tractors, combines, motor homes? How many doors and how big?
4.) It seems you've given good thought to wiring and plumbing, etc.

A few years ago we bought some property with a 30' x 40' x 14' relatively new metal barn that had been used for stabling horses. Dirt floor and 10' doors centered on each end.
We had a contractor put in a concrete slab floor. We paneled the walls 8' high with OSB so that we have something solid to hang stuff from. We organized the area into (3) roughly 10' x 40' lanes.
- We had the contractor build a 8' wide x 40' loft along one side. We store infrequently used stuff on the upper loft and installed a lot of shelving units in the area under the loft for all the miscellaneous stuff that gets used more frequently.
- The center lane from one door to the other is used for projects and keeping tractors out of the weather.
- The other lane is for workbenches, machines, etc.

It works out OK for us and is pretty convenient for its size. We later added a 16' x 40' shed roof and wall on one side of the barn, open on both ends, which we use to keep equipment and materials out of the worst weather. I'm thinking of building another 16' x 40 foot shed addition on the other side, but heavily insulated and enclosed for a comfortable heated/cooled workspace.

You are the person who will be using your structure, and you are the best person to determine HOW you are going to use it and what you really need. It certainly is worth putting a lot of thought into planning your structure and how you want to use it. And, if you decide to start out smaller, you can always add onto it later if you keep that in mind when you design it.

Enjoy.

 

[bigtiller]

Something like this to the size you need.

View attachment 808740

That's a cute little barn, wish it was mine. Nice free-hand work on the decals and the raccoon is perfect.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

I also like an open shed overhang with gravel for attachments and tractor which to me is great for greasing, etc because it's on gravel not a nice floor.

 

[Peter 315]

I also like an open shed overhang with gravel for attachments and tractor which to me is great for greasing, etc because it's on gravel not a nice floor.

Ya but it still ends up on my boots then in the house....

 

[Sundancer268]

I went with 14' side walls and have a loft on one half of my heated half of my 64'x36' foot barn. I originally built a 32'x36 shop/barn and insulated it I put a loft down one side with the ceiling at the 7' height and 12" joist. This gave me a 6' height for the loft. Cheap metal shelving just fit this height. The other half of the original building had a 12'x 13+' sliding door and opposite that door I had a 16'x8' Garage door with an electric opener. The floor is 6" concrete over 6 mil plastic. When I insulated the walls, I just placed 2x3s every 24" and used standard 5/8" drywall with the water resistant green board by the doors. I heat this area with a 35,000 BTU Propane ceiling mounted Risnor heater in the loft side lower portion. Later on I added another 32'x36' section on the north side with no insulation and a gravel floor. I keep my Motor Home and some of the tractor implements in that side for the winter and have two 16' wide sliding doors opposite each other so I can drive through if needed. Doors are off set 8' from each instead of directly opposite so I could have 24' available to bring equipment in. With the Motor Home in and in one "lane" I still have two additional 8' "lanes" available for parking. I ran 100 amp service and have had no issues in the barn. The Motor Home is plugged int just a 30 amp plug for the winter just to keep the batteries charged. It sets along side and in front of the attached garage by the house for the summer plugged into a 50 amp service. I have a 3hp and a 1 hp air compressor in the heated side of the barn and a small 120 Volt welder there also. Before we got the motor home, we kept a SeaRay Sundancer 245 and a 28' Travel Trailer in the unheated side of the barn. Sold the TT and got the MH and with the offset doors, I had no issues parking. Boat went on the West Side Doors and the MH the East Side Doors. Sold the Boat and now I just drive the MH in the West side and out the East Side doors, no more backing in and out.

 

[cornwhiskey]

Pole barn was the best for me the main section is 40 x 60 with a 14 x60 lean two on one side making it 54 x 60. It’s still not big enough. It was the cheapest route to go. I also looked at red iron, but it about three times the cost of a pole barn. Has a 12‘ x 12 rollup door with two walk-in doors.

 

[nknelsen]

Pulling the power from the house is probably not a good idea. You are probably going to have 200 amp service at the house. How much can you spare to send to the barn? How much power do you need in the barn? If you are going to have things like a welder and/or large compressor you will need more power. Better option would be separate meter from the pole.

Unless you are planning a commercial shop that repairs trucks and or equipment you don't need a 200 amp service.

If pulling from the house panel I would be fine with a 100 amp service And could make do with a 60 amp service. That would allow a welder, furnace and compressor to work fine.

 

[cleo101]

I just started building my house, and all but decided to wait on the shop. My wife and parents are on me about going ahead and building it while the house is going up.... They have a point, I really want a shop and need indoor storage for several things. We are planning on this being our retirement spot. I'm 40 and My wife is 44 so it needs to last for many decades.

My dream was a 50x60x12 red iron framed building. With inflation driving the price of the house so high, not to mention the shop price, that is not in the cards. Now hoping for at least 40x50x12. I know I can get 40' wood trusses, potentially 45'.

Proposed shop use:

1) Honey house/ bathroom with shower/ kitchenette for canning etc. This will likely be a framed out room 15x15 - 20x20 no set size but large enough for chores with A/C and ideally set up like an efficiency apartment. Initially I will rough in the plumbing for the shop construction and build out the rest over time.
2) General shop related tasks. light/ medium wood work, wrenching on random stuff, tractors, mowers, etc.
3) storage/ I bought a big shelf system from Bed Bath and Beyond when they went under. 12' tall and probably 40' long. lightish duty. no pallets but great for totes.
4) Motorcycle, mower and additional vehicle parking.

Proposed style.

A) Red iron frame - too expensive
B) Post Frame - Wood in the ground, Rot, Termites etc. Longevity? Much worry.
C) Stick built - Looks like potentially the best option for me.

I plan on getting the pad ready myslef, hiring concrete finishers, hiring framers and hiring out the metal skin installation. Planning on pulling power to a sub-panel from the house and wiring myself. I don't know anything about foundation requirements. Would prefer to add any required footing type things and pour all at once as opposed to digging footers, laying blocks, filling, then pouring the slab. There is probably around a 2' fall on the pad location so I would need to build up with the fill I set aside from my pond. It's clay and Shale, it was almost all shale but when I dug it back out for the driveway lots of the shale has broken down into clay.

I might could do a lot of the framing myself but I don't know the requirements for door headers and anchoring to the floor etc. Basically I'm not scared of hard work and can follow a plan but I don't have the knowledge for what's required.

Planning on 2 man doors and 2-3 overhead doors. At least one of those being about 18' wide.

Please help me with this. I know there have probably been several threads about this exact thing so links would likely also be helpful.

Hi there
I'm a building designer here in Ontario Canada and I've design lots of shed and farm buildings, here we have a lot of building codes and local requirements which determine what you can actually built.... Now what you describe seem fairly simple as I have done hundreds of designs similar to what you are describing in the past 35 + years If would like to discuss things further you can reach me at : simpledesignscp@hotmail.com I do not have a website as I never had the need to advertise.

 

[machinery-man]

I'd put up a pole frame barn and keep it simple definitely no plumbing. Then if you want a small shop to work on things add that on. Just use a smaller space for heating. Keep floor gravel and don't plan on a lot of storage or you'll wind up junking it up. Keep your tractors and indoor machinery there, maybe a welder plug. Folks try to make a building do everything and it's not feasible. If you want a photo or two I'll be glad to send....I've lived at my place over 40 years and keep it simple.

 

[OneSmallTractor]

I just started building my house, and all but decided to wait on the shop. My wife and parents are on me about going ahead and building it while the house is going up.... They have a point, I really want a shop and need indoor storage for several things. We are planning on this being our retirement spot. I'm 40 and My wife is 44 so it needs to last for many decades.

My dream was a 50x60x12 red iron framed building. With inflation driving the price of the house so high, not to mention the shop price, that is not in the cards. Now hoping for at least 40x50x12. I know I can get 40' wood trusses, potentially 45'.

Proposed shop use:

1) Honey house/ bathroom with shower/ kitchenette for canning etc. This will likely be a framed out room 15x15 - 20x20 no set size but large enough for chores with A/C and ideally set up like an efficiency apartment. Initially I will rough in the plumbing for the shop construction and build out the rest over time.
2) General shop related tasks. light/ medium wood work, wrenching on random stuff, tractors, mowers, etc.
3) storage/ I bought a big shelf system from Bed Bath and Beyond when they went under. 12' tall and probably 40' long. lightish duty. no pallets but great for totes.
4) Motorcycle, mower and additional vehicle parking.

Proposed style.

A) Red iron frame - too expensive
B) Post Frame - Wood in the ground, Rot, Termites etc. Longevity? Much worry.
C) Stick built - Looks like potentially the best option for me.

I plan on getting the pad ready myslef, hiring concrete finishers, hiring framers and hiring out the metal skin installation. Planning on pulling power to a sub-panel from the house and wiring myself. I don't know anything about foundation requirements. Would prefer to add any required footing type things and pour all at once as opposed to digging footers, laying blocks, filling, then pouring the slab. There is probably around a 2' fall on the pad location so I would need to build up with the fill I set aside from my pond. It's clay and Shale, it was almost all shale but when I dug it back out for the driveway lots of the shale has broken down into clay.

I might could do a lot of the framing myself but I don't know the requirements for door headers and anchoring to the floor etc. Basically I'm not scared of hard work and can follow a plan but I don't have the knowledge for what's required.

Planning on 2 man doors and 2-3 overhead doors. At least one of those being about 18' wide.

Please help me with this. I know there have probably been several threads about this exact thing so links would likely also be helpful.

I just went thru this same style of project, but on a smaller scale. One thing that pretty much rings true to everyone, once you figure out what your needs and spaces are, go just a little bigger! You will be glad you did.

My project ended up being an all metal building, so don't forget this option (not red iron). I poured a 20x30 slab because I wanted solid, clean footing, no dust, etc. I went thru the purchase with a major online dealer that was great, but they are just the dealer, but the manufacturer, Carolina Carports, leaves very much to be desired. I do think you can get a good end product, but you much watch them like a hawk, and call, and verify, then revify. I paid for the heavier 12 ga square tubing and heavier 26Ga. Metal skin,

The part about this is that the building is instantly done. All the time I saved from Stick building was used to insulate the structure with 2" foam (which voids the warranty!) and reinforce all the joints with 2nd Simpson ties, angles, etc. Sealed around the edge of the building too.

With reinforced concrete slab, finished metal building, and 2" sheet EPS foam installed 2" thick, my finished cost per sf last year came out to $25.87. Fantastic! I'm in Central KY.

 

[Lakebuster]

I just started building my house, and all but decided to wait on the shop. My wife and parents are on me about going ahead and building it while the house is going up.... They have a point, I really want a shop and need indoor storage for several things. We are planning on this being our retirement spot. I'm 40 and My wife is 44 so it needs to last for many decades.

My dream was a 50x60x12 red iron framed building. With inflation driving the price of the house so high, not to mention the shop price, that is not in the cards. Now hoping for at least 40x50x12. I know I can get 40' wood trusses, potentially 45'.

Proposed shop use:

1) Honey house/ bathroom with shower/ kitchenette for canning etc. This will likely be a framed out room 15x15 - 20x20 no set size but large enough for chores with A/C and ideally set up like an efficiency apartment. Initially I will rough in the plumbing for the shop construction and build out the rest over time.
2) General shop related tasks. light/ medium wood work, wrenching on random stuff, tractors, mowers, etc.
3) storage/ I bought a big shelf system from Bed Bath and Beyond when they went under. 12' tall and probably 40' long. lightish duty. no pallets but great for totes.
4) Motorcycle, mower and additional vehicle parking.

Proposed style.

A) Red iron frame - too expensive
B) Post Frame - Wood in the ground, Rot, Termites etc. Longevity? Much worry.
C) Stick built - Looks like potentially the best option for me.

I plan on getting the pad ready myslef, hiring concrete finishers, hiring framers and hiring out the metal skin installation. Planning on pulling power to a sub-panel from the house and wiring myself. I don't know anything about foundation requirements. Would prefer to add any required footing type things and pour all at once as opposed to digging footers, laying blocks, filling, then pouring the slab. There is probably around a 2' fall on the pad location so I would need to build up with the fill I set aside from my pond. It's clay and Shale, it was almost all shale but when I dug it back out for the driveway lots of the shale has broken down into clay.

I might could do a lot of the framing myself but I don't know the requirements for door headers and anchoring to the floor etc. Basically I'm not scared of hard work and can follow a plan but I don't have the knowledge for what's required.

Planning on 2 man doors and 2-3 overhead doors. At least one of those being about 18' wide.

Please help me with this. I know there have probably been several threads about this exact thing so links would likely also be helpful.

For my shop I went 40x60 and did a pole barn construction. we placed the 6x6 posts into sleeve. No termites or moisture comes in contact with the wood.
Then in 2018 we built a 38 x 78 RV garage and did a stick build as it is next to home and the wife wanted it to match home.
with all the brick work it was about double the cost of a pole barn.

 

[LindaK]

This is a 50x60 with two 14 ft overhangs/sheds. It has 2 - 20' wide by 14' high doors (for drivethrough) and another 12' x 12', and one man door. We just recently built a wall on one end of an overhang to keep hay dry.
The last picture shows how we used trusses on the center aisle and stick built the rest. This let's you use a taller door and saves money or concern of longer trusses. You might also see how we mounted the lights so not hidden when the door is up.
I would recommend overhangs/sheds, that is "cheap space". And building in the "post and beam" style allows you to go in afterwards and "traditional" walls in to divide it as you like. Also, you will never regret insulating or vapor barrier otherwise they can sweat. Also, watch your roof pitch, if your building a new home, you'll want your equipment bldg pitch to match or compliment. It looks awful with a nice house roof and a flat out building.
We have finished off a work shop in this building and have a entertaining room, with bath and kitchen in another building. (last picture).

Just one (wo-) man's input.
Linda

 

[C79]

My first thought is why go only 12' tall. You are taxed on footprint so why not go to 16ft and have the capability for a cat walk or loft storage later. If you set it up the right way you don't have to build it all at one either. As it is mentioned in other replies here, buildsheet you can afford now and add on later but a lot of forethought needs to be applied so you are not walled in later. As for the inside I like white metal, it keeps things bright and you can just hose it down. Keep your floor drains in a series so you can keep the clean. I second the vote for its own electric service especially if you ever turn a hobby into a business, separate bills is much easier at tax time. I also like a good epoxy coating on the concrete. I drop things and my eyesight is declining with age. A bright blue floor makes it much easier to find what I am looking for. Just my two cents,

 

[prairiegirl]

I just started building my house, and all but decided to wait on the shop. My wife and parents are on me about going ahead and building it while the house is going up.... They have a point, I really want a shop and need indoor storage for several things. We are planning on this being our retirement spot. I'm 40 and My wife is 44 so it needs to last for many decades.

My dream was a 50x60x12 red iron framed building. With inflation driving the price of the house so high, not to mention the shop price, that is not in the cards. Now hoping for at least 40x50x12. I know I can get 40' wood trusses, potentially 45'.

Proposed shop use:

1) Honey house/ bathroom with shower/ kitchenette for canning etc. This will likely be a framed out room 15x15 - 20x20 no set size but large enough for chores with A/C and ideally set up like an efficiency apartment. Initially I will rough in the plumbing for the shop construction and build out the rest over time.
2) General shop related tasks. light/ medium wood work, wrenching on random stuff, tractors, mowers, etc.
3) storage/ I bought a big shelf system from Bed Bath and Beyond when they went under. 12' tall and probably 40' long. lightish duty. no pallets but great for totes.
4) Motorcycle, mower and additional vehicle parking.

Proposed style.

A) Red iron frame - too expensive
B) Post Frame - Wood in the ground, Rot, Termites etc. Longevity? Much worry.
C) Stick built - Looks like potentially the best option for me.

I plan on getting the pad ready myslef, hiring concrete finishers, hiring framers and hiring out the metal skin installation. Planning on pulling power to a sub-panel from the house and wiring myself. I don't know anything about foundation requirements. Would prefer to add any required footing type things and pour all at once as opposed to digging footers, laying blocks, filling, then pouring the slab. There is probably around a 2' fall on the pad location so I would need to build up with the fill I set aside from my pond. It's clay and Shale, it was almost all shale but when I dug it back out for the driveway lots of the shale has broken down into clay.

I might could do a lot of the framing myself but I don't know the requirements for door headers and anchoring to the floor etc. Basically I'm not scared of hard work and can follow a plan but I don't have the knowledge for what's required.

Planning on 2 man doors and 2-3 overhead doors. At least one of those being about 18' wide.

Please help me with this. I know there have probably been several threads about this exact thing so links would likely also be helpful.

Post frame can be done with concrete footings.:
"perma-columns are pre-cast concrete columns that fit any laminated or solid post. This sustainable solution is guaranteed to withstand any insect damage or decay because no wood goes into the ground.
Using 10,000 PSI pre-cast concrete, perma-columns are 3x stronger than standard concrete. Then, the columns are reinforced with 60,000 PSI rebar welded to a ¼’’ steel bracket.
Furthermore, perma-columns include microfibers to add shock resistance and durability. Microsilica enhances compressive strength and erosion resistance. A corrosion inhibitor protects the rebar and brackets from rusting."

 

[prairiegirl]

A one man shop doesn't need a huge amount of power. You won't be running the welder and the milling machine at the same time. You can total up the draw of the things that can run on their own and add the largest intermittent draw. For example the compressor + HVAC + lights, and then add the welder or milling machine.

Depending on the house's draw, and how extensive the shop will be, you may well be able to get it all into 200a. On the other hand, the cost of adding a second service may be reasonable in your area. We have the power company from hell, so it's expensive here.

Also some planning depts (and not just in CA) get spooked by a shop that has enough stuff in it for people to live there, i.e. bathroom and shower and kitchen. They think you're trying to build an ADU on the cheap.

That makes sense, BUT make sure the electrical inspector thinks so too.

 

[Hoot Owl]

LLBJ
If you plane on a honey house you should have a separate electric Metter. This way you clam it for taxes.
Also put 110 and 220 receptacles about every 4'. As your honey production grows you will be glad they are there.

 

[YardBikeBob]

If you're going to have a conditioned room inside your barn, I suggest that slab be a separate pour. Once concrete gets cold it stays cold.

When planning your electrical requirements, I suggest a dedicated feed for a future EV charger. Yes, this could be shared with welding equipment. My charger for EV side-by-side draws a lot!

 

[Gord Baker]

Scale down your dreams and shop size. You don't need another house. 25 x 40, man door at both ends, windows 7' or more above grade to deter thieves. 2-10'x10' rollups. Perhaps a 8'x0' roll up at the other end. 400 Amp Service to home, 200 to shop. Consider correct Sprayfoam Insulation. Put it on high ground, floors sloping to Doors. Small office in back corner.

 

[aircommuter]

I have been through the house and shop build scenario 4 times. First time I was in my mid twenties. The shop was just a stall incorporated into the house. Not enough height for lift so I did a pit. House was a ranch style 2100 square feet.
From that I learned all the trades and built three more with detached shops. In the last three I built the shop first to give a place to live and for my tools. Subs weren’t used just me and my wife. One was a hangar/shop combo and the all had their own 3 phase meters. The last one was metal framed which is actually pretty cheap as long as you do the labor. Houses and generally 65% labor. Metal shops go up quick and easy. The walls can be simplified by using self insulated panels that are steel on both sides. The panels save a lot of time. I used 4 sub panels 2 in each side of the shop, wood working and automotive/machine. I used conduit for all the power so I could add wires easily in the future. It’s best to have extra panel space for adding circuits. The woodshop only needed a 12’ ceiling so I have a mezzanine above. Walls are 20’ which allowed for my dual two post lift and overhead pedestal mounted crane. Shop ended up being 50 x 130. Then someone came along and said I was supposed to be downsizing at my age! Too late now.
I know you aren’t going for all this but thought maybe you could get a couple pieces of info you could use.
Inflation shouldn’t be a problem based on all the lies I have read!

 

[hummertom]

Having been in construction for 45+ years as an electrical contractor I have done design/build for residential and commercial, I have learned that you must think of your electrical needs as you do your well, how much you need depends on how many things you need to do at the same time. Lights and plugs really don't require much especially with the new LED lights. Probably your highest draw will be the HVAC, electric heat or an electric stove. Electricity is the least efficient way to heat anything so you must plan. That HVAC unit and your basic stove will each draw about 50amps, but most uses will be intermittent, Plan ahead and think small and point of use, like window AC, baseboard heaters and a 6 gal electric water htr or on demand small water htr under sink. I ran my 1st house and shop with a hot tub out back on 125amps with never a problem. I have a neighbor with a 30x60 shop with every tool and a lift, he runs on 100 amps. Two more things to consider, most residential panels will only accept a max 100 amp breaker to plug in, so talk to your elec. contractor before he installs it, and last but not least consider permits, here in rural AZ up to 200 sq ft, the county doesn't care, 200-400 they care about WHERE it goes, after that full drawings and engineering, which ain't cheap. Good Luck