Buying Advice on Hydraulic links

[LouNY]

I just hooked up my blower and FEL SSQA blade today on my Branson 8050 with 3 rear remotes and I ran out of remotes.
I have one on the hydraulic top link,
the second one goes to the chute rotator,
the third one is going up to run the angle on the front blade.
Leaving the chute deflector not hooked up.
So I needed a forth one.

 

[Torvy]

I just hooked up my blower and FEL SSQA blade today on my Branson 8050 with 3 rear remotes and I ran out of remotes.
I have one on the hydraulic top link,
the second one goes to the chute rotator,
the third one is going up to run the angle on the front blade.
Leaving the chute deflector not hooked up.
So I needed a forth one.

If I have to buy a snowblower, I think we have bigger problems than too few remotes.

 

[LouNY]

If I have to buy a snowblower, I think we have bigger problems than too few remotes.

OK, my back blade has hydraulic tilt and angle and my toplink, I'd like the offset to be on the hydraulics but not enough remotes
and I haven't gotten hydraulics to my grapple so I'm up to 5.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Whenever I need a 4th rear remote, I use this rig to tap the 3rd function valve:



I added a 4th break away coupler housing to the stack and ran temporary hoses forward to the 3rd function valve couplers. Yeah, it's a jury rig but I don't need it that often.

I had most of the parts laying around and the ones I bought were much cheaper than trying to use an electric diverter valve.

 

[Gregster613]

Whenever I need a 4th rear remote, I use this rig to tap the 3rd function valve:

View attachment 786765 View attachment 786762 View attachment 786763 View attachment 786764

I added a 4th break away coupler housing to the stack and ran temporary hoses forward to the 3rd function valve couplers. Yeah, it's a jury rig but I don't need it that often.

I had most of the parts laying around and the ones I bought were much cheaper than trying to use an electric diverter valve.

That's some good creative out-side the box thinking! You're right, often the need for 4 remotes is seldom so what you came up with fits the plan just fine! Thanks for sharing.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Any ideas why my HYD top link chatters when extended? If I go slow, it’s ok, if I don’t feather it, it chatters like crazy.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

 

[S854]

Any ideas why my HYD top link chatters when extended? If I go slow, it’s ok, if I don’t feather it, it chatters like crazy.

I had the same issue… I was told it’s because the weight of the BB was pulling hydraulic fluid through the top link faster than the hydraulic system could deliver it… causing cavitation (or something to that effect)…

Lower your implement to the ground and work your top link… if i operates smoothly this way you have the same issue I had…

The solution I was directed to was to install a restrictor in the hydraulic return line…

worked for me…

 

[RobertDuPuis]

I suppose these are technically parts, but they attach to the tractor, so apologies if this is poorly placed.

I am about to pull the trigger on a T494H (maybe a 4820H or T574H). I want to get a hydraulic top and side link. My primary use will be box blade work on driveway (200-300 ft) and paths. I have some questions for those who have been down this road before me.

1) Have dealer install it or aftermarket?
2) Options/features to look for?
3) Min-Max lengths?
4) Manufacturers with good reputation?

Installation seems pretty straightforward, but somethings are better in experts' hands.

Most kits come complete with what you need to install the 3rd function yourself but there are times they don't and that's when a dealer is needed. I live in Belchertown, MA and when modifying my tractors order the parts through Devon Lane Farm Supply Inc. and take thier advice on installing myself or having them do it. Only once needed them great people hopefully you have a good place to order from and talk with

 

[Torvy]

Most kits come complete with what you need to install the 3rd function yourself but there are times they don't and that's when a dealer is needed. I live in Belchertown, MA and when modifying my tractors order the parts through Devon Lane Farm Supply Inc. and take thier advice on installing myself or having them do it. Only once needed them great people hopefully you have a good place to order from and talk with

Thanks. The 3rd function (for FEL/grapple) is definitely going to be installed at dealer prior to delivery. The TYM comes partially plumbed for 3rd function. $1100 installed and the parts are most of that.

This question is more about the replacing the top and side link on the 3pt hitch with hydraulic ones. The "3rd" rear remote valve is an option (the other 2 are standard equipment). At present, I am leaning toward just going with 2. For my purposes, I am not seeing a use for a 3rd remote. If I change my mind, I'll have to install it myself.

 

[RobertDuPuis]

Oh sorry I did the upgrade for those too no real work purchased the them at the dealer and installed just plug and go best thing I did for grading driveways and trails yes trails top link helps adjusting everything I attach to the tractor there are times I wisd I had a 3rd hydraulic rear valve cutting grass for hay example have to unplug one to use disc cutter

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I had the same issue… I was told it’s because the weight of the BB was pulling hydraulic fluid through the top link faster than the hydraulic system could deliver it… causing cavitation (or something to that effect)…

Lower your implement to the ground and work your top link… if i operates smoothly this way you have the same issue I had…

The solution I was directed to was to install a restrictor in the hydraulic return line…

worked for me…

I have read that the check valve installed on the cylinder will cause this. If removed, they operate smoothly, otherwise they will chatter due to the weight of the implement and how that affects the check valve operation

 

[Torvy]

Oh sorry I did the upgrade for those too no real work purchased the them at the dealer and installed just plug and go best thing I did for grading driveways and trails yes trails top link helps adjusting everything I attach to the tractor there are times I wisd I had a 3rd hydraulic rear valve cutting grass for hay example have to unplug one to use disc cutter

No worries. I just wanted any future readers to be less confused.

Most of my property is trees, so hay will never be on my radar. I think I can live with unhooking the side link when I need it.

 

[W8BYA]

I suppose these are technically parts, but they attach to the tractor, so apologies if this is poorly placed.

I am about to pull the trigger on a T494H (maybe a 4820H or T574H). I want to get a hydraulic top and side link. My primary use will be box blade work on driveway (200-300 ft) and paths. I have some questions for those who have been down this road before me.

1) Have dealer install it or aftermarket?
2) Options/features to look for?
3) Min-Max lengths?
4) Manufacturers with good reputation?

Installation seems pretty straightforward, but somethings are better in experts' hands.

I think you could do this yourself and probably save some money. I just installed a HTT on my NH Boomer 45 and I think the entire job took 15 minutes. I made a brief video showing it and where I got it. GL !

 

[Deanes]

I suppose these are technically parts, but they attach to the tractor, so apologies if this is poorly placed.

I am about to pull the trigger on a T494H (maybe a 4820H or T574H). I want to get a hydraulic top and side link. My primary use will be box blade work on driveway (200-300 ft) and paths. I have some questions for those who have been down this road before me.

1) Have dealer install it or aftermarket?
2) Options/features to look for?
3) Min-Max lengths?
4) Manufacturers with good reputation?

Installation seems pretty straightforward, but somethings are better in experts' hands.

Not sure why this is such a big deal. Years ago I found an old hydraulic cylinder, got some ends at the local farm store and had a local welding shop weld it up. I have used that top link through 3 tractors from 35 hp to 70 hp. Just using the remotes available. I use it as my only toplink and it makes any hookup easier, levels bushogs and grader blades, adjusts the bite of my boxblade, and before I had a loader made the use of a boom-pole really practical. I guess I could do a side link, but not sure how or why I would use it.

 

[beenthere]

Have the check valve on my top link, and never once had it chatter or shift out of position due to load. I couldn't be without my hyd. top link.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Have the check valve on my top link, and never once had it chatter or shift out of position due to load. I couldn't be without my hyd. top link.

Interesting. I’ve read where people have removed the check valve, and the chatter went away… I’ll email the supplier.

 

[DK35vince]

Have the check valve on my top link, and never once had it chatter or shift out of position due to load. I couldn't be without my hyd. top link.

Same here.
I've had top and tilt cylinders with check valves on my tractor for 22 years.
Never had chatter, and they stay where I put them (no drifting off)

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Same here.
I've had top and tilt cylinders with check valves on my tractor for 22 years.
Never had chatter, and they stay where I put them (no drifting off)

Maybe air? It only does it with a load.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

Have the check valve on my top link, and never once had it chatter or shift out of position due to load. I couldn't be without my hyd. top link.

Looks like some folks need to install a flow restrictor on the cylinder to adjust flow. This has an impact on cylinder speed (mine moves much too fast)… and removes the chatter. Agristore actually sells them for this very purpose.