Buying Advice on Hydraulic links

[Torvy]

I suppose these are technically parts, but they attach to the tractor, so apologies if this is poorly placed.

I am about to pull the trigger on a T494H (maybe a 4820H or T574H). I want to get a hydraulic top and side link. My primary use will be box blade work on driveway (200-300 ft) and paths. I have some questions for those who have been down this road before me.

1) Have dealer install it or aftermarket?
2) Options/features to look for?
3) Min-Max lengths?
4) Manufacturers with good reputation?

Installation seems pretty straightforward, but somethings are better in experts' hands.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm fairly certain that there is no OEM T&T option. But things change and maybe I'm wrong.

I'm not familiar enough with any of those models to say if the rear remote valves have options such as detent, or float or self canceling detent. They might all be 3 position spring return to center type of valves? (most likely)

All of those models should have the T&T cylinders built with 2 1/2" dia cylinders IMO. I prefer 1 1/2" dia rods, but it seems like the competition likes 1 1/8" & 1 3/16" dia rods.

To be sure that you get the units built correctly, the side link should be built so that when the rod is half way extended, the length matches the left side fixed link. This will provide an equal amount of tilt angle to both sides. Depending on what you get, but that should be either a 4",5" or maybe even a 6" stroke for the side link.

As far as the top link, look at the this link, get the asked for dimension and be sure that the hydraulic unit is close to the asked for dimension when half way extended.

Keep in mind that the models that you have mentioned DO NOT take the sames units. Both the top & side links are different for T models vs the previous Branson model.

Last thing, depending on the quality of the control valves and type, but you might want-need check valves on the cylinders.

I have not really had much of a problem with either TYM or Branson models in the past requiring the cylinders to have the check valves.

But again, things change.

Pictures are for earlier models similar to what you are considering.

Good luck with your search and decision.

 

[leonz]

You need at least 3 sets of remotes to run the rear top link to have a box blade
with a hydraulic depth control for the rippers on a box blade and side link and
a separate hydraulic rear blade with 3 functions.

For the money your going to spend a hydraulic rear blade with all the bells
and whistles and four sets of remotes is all you need as you apparently want
to crown your road and it is very hard to do without a laser controlled grading
attachment on a tractor or skid loader.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I’ll have the 4820H in my barn tomorrow to get dimensions

 

[ericm979]

I got a dealer-installed top and tilt with my Branson 3725H. It's run off the two factory remotes. They work fine but the units from MtnViewRanch look to be better quality.

The top cylinder has standard ends (cat 1, cat 2 etc). The tilt is different for different tractors. As long as you get the right cylinders, installing and plumbing them yourself would not be difficult.

 

[IndyIan]

You need at least 3 sets of remotes to run the rear top link to have a box blade
with a hydraulic depth control for the rippers on a box blade and side link and
a separate hydraulic rear blade with 3 functions.

For the money your going to spend a hydraulic rear blade with all the bells
and whistles and four sets of remotes is all you need as you apparently want
to crown your road and it is very hard to do without a laser controlled grading
attachment on a tractor or skid loader.

Eh, I just have a hyd top link and a HD box blade without a hyd scarifier bar, and just leave the teeth level so with the box level they don't really do anything. But with a little tilt the scarifiers do their thing just fine. I can get the driveway smooth enough and crowned for 20mph anyways, no need for lasers, etc...
just set the tilt manually and try to work down one side of the the driveway and then back, so I'm not changing the tilt too many times! I would still like to get a tilt cyl but haven't got around to figuring it all out yet.

 

[leonz]

I’ll have the 4820H in my barn tomorrow to get dimensions

Leave it at the equipment dealer to let them do all the work otherwise you may regret it.

 

[mikester]

If you have hydraulic remotes already installed adding the TNT is a no brainer. I didn't want to wait 6 months for Fit Rite and did a cheap hydraulic top link from Princess Auto on sale for under CDN$200 including hoses and couplers.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/top-link-cylinders/product/PA1000000426?skuId=8699456

I got the 10 inch stroke and wish it was a little longer. From what I've seen Fit Rite makes a nice looking setup.

 

[oosik]

I have a Fit Rite hydraulic top link. I didn't get shift or tilt because I didn't know to order added hydraulic remotes when I purchased the tractor. It came with one hydraulic remote. Actually - side shift and tilt would only be helpful with my rear blade. I don't use my ROBB often enough to worry about it.

I would order the hydraulic remote controls at the time you order the tractor. Probably cheaper and professionally installed. Adding the hydraulic actuating cylinders - a no brainer. They are just a Plug-N-Go situation.

So.... when I use the rear blade for snow or ditch clearing - I manually set side shift and tilt. I could add two or three more now... but it would be quite expensive.

I got my Fit Rite hydraulic top link ten years ago. The wait, at that time, around two months.

My hydraulic top link has functioned - with nary a problem.

I've seen what Kubota has to offer - very glad I went with Fit Rite. Fit Rite is a much more robust system.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I think Fit Rite is quoting 30 weeks for delivery now… so that’s not an option. Hope to have a top link in the next 6 weeks for some road work