Woodmaxx Snowblower Wiring question

[Sierraau]

Digital meter. Got only 12v in one direction on both switches, but I did the test by disconnecting the wires from the switch box at the splice nearest the control box, so the wires were NOT attached to anything other than the tester. Should I test with the all the wires attached to the blower, at that first connection? I eliminated the four way plug and now I have 2 outdoor extension cords that are 14 gauge using two wires of the 3 in the cord. Sorry to sound like a complete idiot, but I have done a bunch of basic wiring to add things to my 2002 Kioti, so I am not a COMPLETE idiot.... but this 3 way 12v switch threw me for a loop. Never ever considered anything like it.

 

[LouNY]

The easy way out;

This seems to be very similar to your switches, with just 4 wires per switch on the external connections as the jumpers have been run internally.
https://www.amazon.com/Tbrand-Momentary-Polarity-Reverse-reversing/dp/B08KD9SNH1?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2625GOFX0SKPC

So you just need 12 Volt to the switches and two wires from each switch to the actuators.
Your actuator wires need to come off of one pair of terminals and power to the other pair.

 

[LD1]

Digital meter. Got only 12v in one direction on both switches, but I did the test by disconnecting the wires from the switch box at the splice nearest the control box, so the wires were NOT attached to anything other than the tester. Should I test with the all the wires attached to the blower, at that first connection? I eliminated the four way plug and now I have 2 outdoor extension cords that are 14 gauge using two wires of the 3 in the cord. Sorry to sound like a complete idiot, but I have done a bunch of basic wiring to add things to my 2002 Kioti, so I am not a COMPLETE idiot.... but this 3 way 12v switch threw me for a loop. Never ever considered anything like it.

Not having both 12v and -12v is puzzling. But not being there to see whats going on makes it difficult to troubleshoot even simple things via the forum.

But at least you have 12v one direction so something should move.

The idea of leaving it connected to the motor and testing CLOSEST to the motor was to see what kind of voltage drop you were getting with a load.

A bad connection "somewhere" will still show 12v when tested. But the moment a load is applied the voltage can drop to 0.

 

[Sierraau]

So, do you guys think it is a controller issue? Do I need to have the wires hooked up to everything when I am testing the switching movements?

 

[Sierraau]

The easy way out;

View attachment 777894

This seems to be very similar to your switches, with just 4 wires per switch on the external connections as the jumpers have been run internally.
https://www.amazon.com/Tbrand-Momentary-Polarity-Reverse-reversing/dp/B08KD9SNH1?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2625GOFX0SKPC

So you just need 12 Volt to the switches and two wires from each switch to the actuators.
Your actuator wires need to come off of one pair of terminals and power to the other pair.

That looks exactly like the controller

 

[Carl_NH]

OK I went out and put my volt meter in each plug and recorded the readings - you will see in the attached pics.

Plugged the leads into the two feed wires for each motor.
- Chute Rotation Left 13.46 V
- Chute Rotation Right -13.47 v
- Deflector Up -13.47 V
- Deflector Down 13.47

I think it still could be a bad ground wire in your case Sierraau

 

[Sierraau]

OK I went out and put my volt meter in each plug and recorded the readings - you will see in the attached pics.

Plugged the leads into the two feed wires for each motor.
- Chute Rotation Left 13.46 V
- Chute Rotation Right -13.47 v
- Deflector Up -13.47 V
- Deflector Down 13.47

I think it still could be a bad ground wire in your case Sierraau

So, "bad ground" means that I need to do away with the fender ground and maybe run a sheet metal screw into one of the cab supports, or do I need to run a ground back to the battery?

 

[Carl_NH]

I ran power from both battery terminals directly to the controller with the inline fuse at the battery positive terminal.

You can easily simulate and test this with two wires (or jumper cables) from a battery to the controller power input.

This may not be the issue, but it's a process of elimination at this point.

 

[LouNY]

^^^^ best way.

 

[KWentling]

So, "bad ground" means that I need to do away with the fender ground and maybe run a sheet metal screw into one of the cab supports, or do I need to run a ground back to the battery?

Going directly back to the battery is the best.

 

[Sierraau]

I ran power from both battery terminals directly to the controller with the inline fuse at the battery positive terminal.

You can easily simulate and test this with two wires (or jumper cables) from a battery to the controller power input.

This may not be the issue, but it's a process of elimination at this point.

I've got the hot 10# coming directly from the battery to the + fuse block running all my add-on accessories. Now I guess I might as well run the - to a block so all my accessories can pick up that ground too. I'll go work on it and let you guys know what happens. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Carl_NH]

Suggest connecting a temp wire to battery POS and NEG directly to the controller input to eliminate any variables at this point.

You don't need the SB attached to get the readings shown in the tests i ran.

 

[Sierraau]

Suggest connecting a temp wire to battery POS and NEG directly to the controller input to eliminate any variables at this point.

You don't need the SB attached to get the readings shown in the tests i ran.

cool, thanks I'll take a look

 

[Sierraau]

So, I just did a quickie, and it looks like I am getting 8v on both directions now- so I am assuming if I get a better connection to the negative side of the battery I will have 12v back there. Need to go to the store to get wiring things. Let you know what happens this afternoon.

 

[Sierraau]

Still confused. I ran a 14 gauge wire back to the control box from battery ground and added it to the screw that goes through the fender (the ground wire from the controller is stacked on the screw), so I retested the switches. The chute direction motor when I move it one way it is 12v and the other way it is -.5v; When I do the deflector wires it is 12v and -12v.... so that SHOULD be good, right? So when I hooked up the chute direction wires, and moved the switch - nothing happened AND when I moved the deflector switch I expected SOMETHING, but alas.... nothing. So, it looks like something is wrong with one of the switches- I guess, and I don't know what to think about the deflector wires and nothing happening. You think that for BOTH the motors to go bad together at the same time would have been caused by some catastrophic failure somewhere, but I don't know of anything. Everything worked fine last year, I unplugged everything for the summer, and then this fall found that the controller wires under my seat were worn away, and that is when I cut into the harness- after I took out the fuse to ensure no sparking. Does anyone have any other ideas I can try?

 

[Carl_NH]

Did you connect POS and NEG directly from the battery to the controller box wires (black and red) with nothing else in the circuit? You dont need any other ground screw in the control box.

Did you move or change the wiring in the controller in any way?

 

[LouNY]

You need a couple of alligator clip jumper leads,

they are available many places any auto parts store as well as Harbor Freight and such.
They will aid as they will grip your meter leads and wires or terminals.

With your actuators disconnected open your switch box and verify 12 volts to both switches on one pair of contacts.
From your previous pictures I would say the pair of contacts in the middle of the switches.
Then with your leads on the other pair of contacts toggle the switch one way your meter then should read 12 volts, let the switch return to center and you should be a zero volts, toggle the other way and you should have the same voltage reading but with polarity reversed.
As you operate your switches you should be able to observe the polarity change from + to -.

That will verify your switches, then start tracing out your harness wires and get the correct pair going to each actuator.

 

[LouNY]

I just noticed that you ran a #14 wire for the negative lead to your common grounding point, that might work but;

#12 is recommended.

 

[Sierraau]

I just noticed that you ran a #14 wire for the negative lead to your common grounding point, that might work but;
View attachment 778085
#12 is recommended.

That's what happens when i don't read instructions. Why do they want a 12# wire when both the leads coming out of the controller are 16 or 18#. Working on my tractor is my new hobby. This thing is really messing with my mind. I just don't get it. But I will go buy some #12 and see if that works as a direct connection with both the + & - and nothing else involved.

 

[Sierraau]

Did you connect POS and NEG directly from the battery to the controller box wires (black and red) with nothing else in the circuit? You dont need any other ground screw in the control box.

Did you move or change the wiring in the controller in any way?

Not directly. Will do that tomorrow. No changes to wiring.