My NX6010

[Fallon]

If you've got a solution I'm all ears!

I looked to see if I could swap the pins to the inside but that measures right around 26". Inside measurement on CAT 1 quick hitches is roughly 27". Won't fit inside, and won't fit outside the towers (comes to just over 29"). Only option would be to alter the towers, which would require a fair amount of welding (I don't have a welder).

I rebuild any implements I get that aren't QH compatible. Usually takes an hour or 2 maybe a weekend. I have a welder & metalworking gear though. Depending a welder might do the work for a couple hundred or less, depending on what is required.

I like Craigslist & auction bargain hunting so I find & go through a handful of implements.

If you go for a QH, make sure all your implements are QH compatible, or its not worth your time & money to have the QH in the first place.

 

[DieselBound]

The NX5510 is CAT 2. The irony, as I pointed out (and as I think Eric has managed to emphasize) is that the fenders aren't CAT 2 quick hitch compatible!

I couldn't afford a new bush hog and nothing of any substance tends to pop up around here used. The one I got (6' BH26) would work with a CAT 2 quick hitch.

I've got a 5' box blade that's CAT 1 quick hitch compatible (though I once had a quick hitch for the B7800 and That quick hitch didn't work with it!) that I think I can make work with a CAT 2 quick hitch, though it would be to put pins on the outer lower attachment points: I think I can use extra long pins and run their threads into the inner attachment piece. This box blade is heck-for-stout (not that I look to tear up frozen ground like Eric does ; I'd only be looking to use it like this short-term (otherwise it belongs on the B7800).

Another bit of irony is that I recently picked up a 5' bush hog that is true CAT 1 quick hitch compatible, replacing an older one that was not. This is for my B7800.

 

[94BULLITT]

If you've got a solution I'm all ears!

I looked to see if I could swap the pins to the inside but that measures right around 26". Inside measurement on CAT 1 quick hitches is roughly 27". Won't fit inside, and won't fit outside the towers (comes to just over 29"). Only option would be to alter the towers, which would require a fair amount of welding (I don't have a welder).

Could you make or have a bracket made that uses the lift arm pin bolt hole and drill another hole above or below it. I'm thinking something like a piece of heavy gauge angle bolted to the cutter with some 1/4'' plate or piece of channel (or 2 pieces of angle) welded to the angle for you new attachment points. If this does not make sense I may have some scraps laying around and I could clamp them together so you could see what I am talking about. You will probably have to mod the top link too. With making an adapter and adding a QH your PTO shaft may be too short.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, I'm now in the process of buying a quick hitch. I found that a CAT 1 won't work for me (won't work with my bush hog), so a CAT 2 looks like what I'll get. Didn't you have fender damage due to your CAT 2 quick hitch crunching up against it? I measured the distance between fenders at 33". A CAT 2 quick hitch I'm looking at is spec'd 38" wide (might be a little less at the "shoulders," not sure, but definitely isn't going to be less than 33").

Perhaps one could cut the fenders w/o weakening things there. Or maybe remove the trailing sections as they appear to be removable (haven't looked to see if running without them would cause issues).

Yes, both of my rear fender extensions have been blasted from my SpeeCo Cat 2 quick hitch. It works like this: The three point has been moved up at some point when the engine was off, and not checked before starting the engine. In the time it takes me to *bamb!* two broken fender extensions. This happened on my tractor at 7.7 hours when it was still on my driveway after I had installed my third function.

As a side note, I now know why Massey, Deer and Kubota don't extend their rear fender extensions as far back as Kioti because they can interfere with the three point attachments.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

The NX5510 is CAT 2. The irony, as I pointed out (and as I think Eric has managed to emphasize) is that the fenders aren't CAT 2 quick hitch compatible!

I couldn't afford a new bush hog and nothing of any substance tends to pop up around here used. The one I got (6' BH26) would work with a CAT 2 quick hitch.

I've got a 5' box blade that's CAT 1 quick hitch compatible (though I once had a quick hitch for the B7800 and That quick hitch didn't work with it!) that I think I can make work with a CAT 2 quick hitch, though it would be to put pins on the outer lower attachment points: I think I can use extra long pins and run their threads into the inner attachment piece. This box blade is heck-for-stout (not that I look to tear up frozen ground like Eric does ; I'd only be looking to use it like this short-term (otherwise it belongs on the B7800).

Another bit of irony is that I recently picked up a 5' bush hog that is true CAT 1 quick hitch compatible, replacing an older one that was not. This is for my B7800.

I've never torn up frozen ground.

 

[DieselBound]

Could you make or have a bracket made that uses the lift arm pin bolt hole and drill another hole above or below it. I'm thinking something like a piece of heavy gauge angle bolted to the cutter with some 1/4'' plate or piece of channel (or 2 pieces of angle) welded to the angle for you new attachment points. If this does not make sense I may have some scraps laying around and I could clamp them together so you could see what I am talking about. You will probably have to mod the top link too. With making an adapter and adding a QH your PTO shaft may be too short.

Yes, that's a good possible solution, I'll toy with the idea.

Things would be easier if I knew for sure what the dimensions of the lower arms are on the various quick hitches. I just seem to see inside dimension and then over-all width. Perhaps I'm not aware of some "standard" width? Kind of gun-shy in that my previous CAT 1 quick hitch didn't work on my box blade: it was a cheapo Harbor Freight one, I believe; box blade is a Modern Ag (not cheap!); easier to just mess with pins on the box blade (no quick hitch); but, hooking the bush hog w/o the quick hitch sucked (more so a cheap Kubota issue, but it is what it is).

I'm still anxious to get Eric's input on this. Just might be a lot more practical to remove the trailing fender pieces (might not make it look pretty, but I'd keep from breaking plastic!).

 

[DieselBound]

Eric, great to hear from you.

So, in hindsight what would you have done about all of this?

 

[DieselBound]

Possible solution might be to use a stop (like is on the draft control) to limit how far up one can raise the 3pt?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, great to hear from you.

So, in hindsight what would you have done about all of this?

Depending on the tool, the length of the top link would prevent the quick hitch from contacting the fenders, but I frequently find myself trying to make by tractor shorter by shortening my hydraulic top link as much as I can. I also have need to lift the three point as high as I can too but my needs and use may be different than your own since we have different 3pt attachments.

My fender extensions where trashed from the get-go (I didn't know it could happen, see) and I just left them as they are. However, if I was to sort out the problem, I'd cut out part of the inboard side of the fender extension, anneal it so that the cuts would not crack, and rivet rubber in the place.

I have the new fender extensions as well as a length of old conveyor belt I was going to use, but life is short and precious and I have not gotten around to it.

 

[paragodx535]

Any new updates Eric? I'm curious to see what you have gotten done these last few months. I just finished reading all 131 pages of this thread.

 

[redipsweb]

Eric, I too had the same issue happen to my DK35SE, except it damaged my hood also. When I sold that tractor & upgraded to a DK45SE, this how I solved that problem & my lighting issue. Had it powder coated, couldn't find orange to match so I went with black.

 

[DieselBound]

A grill guard is still on my "wish" list It wouldn't have, however, protected me from denting my hood: piece of wood flew out of my grapple and smacked on top of the top front corner of the hood. Interestingly, I'd also managed to dent my Kubota's hood! An involuntary christening, I suspect (both incidents happening early-on)

My mirrors and safety sign (triangle) tend to do periodic battles with brush and tree limbs. Driver's side mirror's housing has a stress crack on the bottom where the mounting rod runs, but it hasn't affected operation (still rigid). While I don't shy away from getting into some tight areas I DO make sure I step up on my awareness.

 

[Arnold-Zifflel]

Yes Threepoint this is new with the NX series. The DK series hydrostat was mechanically controlled with the forward and reverse peddles. The peddles were also mechanically interlocked making it impossible to activate forward and reverse at the same time.

The NX series now uses an electrical signal from the peddle to activate the hydrostat. When you press a peddle you are moving a potentiometer with no physical connection to the transmission. The lockout is designed to protect the transmission from being told to advance both forward and reverse at the same time. This new electric operation allows Kioti to add the new features like no stall and PTO cruise and linked peddle.

You are correct about the poor documentation on this. Had I not been struggling to solve the " jumping out of gear" issue for a customer over a year ago I would have had no clue. I could not duplicate the problem or find anything physically wrong with the transmission. We started thinking about other possibilities and stumbled upon a brief note in the service manual. As it turns out my customers boots were too big LOL. Shortly after solving this one we got another complaint about jumping out of gear. A quick visit on site and some demonstration with the customer solved the problem. Both machines have not "jumped out of gear" since. As I mentioned before, we now include this topic in our customer training when delivering a new NX series tractor.

As I mentioned before it sounds like Eric has a completely different issue but I will bet that this knowledge will solve a few of the others.

Hi Hard Knox. I HOPE you still monitor this site... I just read some posts from 2016 about the peddles on a hydrostatic range shifted Kioti NX Series tractor. I just purchased my first ever tractor. I've never operated one before. It is a used NX4510 HST CAB.

I have only had it a week and not driven it much. The other day I was trying to brush hog for the first time. I don't know what I did beforehand, but when I put the shifter in neutral and set the parking brake to get out to see how low the brush hog was to the ground, the engine cut off when I got up out of the seat. I got back in the seat and tried to start the tractor but nothing happened. It didn't even try to turn over.
I immediately freaked out and called the person that I purchased the tractor from. He said yeah, it does that sometimes. He didn't tell me that before I purchased it and asked if anything was wrong with it. So, he told me to try and start it while moving the shift lever to different positions. Sure enough it started when I moved the shifter from neutral to M.

Now I'm able to start and use the tractor but the range shifter is out of sync with the dash lights and transmission. I have to move the shifter around while trying to crank it to find neutral. I'm wondering if I somehow pressed both peddles at the same time and through it out of calibration? If so, it isn't resetting itself.

As 3-point mentioned, there is nothing much in the owners manual on this. There is surprisingly no YouTube videos mentioning this either. By luck, I came across this thread in a Google search.

Finally my question, is there a way to manually sync the shift lever with the dash lights and transmission??

Thank you in advance!

Pete

 

[Arnold-Zifflel]

Hard Knocks, thanks for posting this. I think it may indeed be the explanation for what I thought was the transmission popping into neutral the few times it happened to me with my NX4510HST cab. Last night I spent 45 minutes grading our access road and did some experimenting. Pressing simultaneously on the forward/reverse pedals, even lightly, caused the HST to go into safe mode and the Calibration light to come on as you describe. I then had to wait a few seconds before either pedal would make the tractor move again. It was only about three seconds, but if, in the meantime, I pressed either pedal, safe mode would not clear until I kept my foot off the pedals for the full three seconds. It is easy to see how this could produce an endless cycle for a few moments, as the tendency is to keep trying to nudge the tractor either forward or backward while fiddling with the range selector lever.

Thinking back again on the few times I thought the tractor was popping out of Mid range into neutral, I now suspect this is what was happening instead. Unlike in Eric's case, I heard no sound to indicate the shift lever actually moved. And while I wasn't looking at the shift lever as it was happening, it seemed to be in the same position the whole time, and the range indicator light on the instrument panel continued to display "M". In a post above (#1101), I noted that raising and lowering the FEL allowed the tractor to start moving again, hence my speculation that this might be related to hydraulic flow. Now I suspect that just keeping my foot off the F or R pedals while I worked the joystick was actually what cleared the condition, just by allowing the safe mode enough time to clear!

This morning I went through the owner's manual for the NX seriein your 2016 0ist s to see if there is any mention of this "safe mode" feature. Nope. I only saw only one reference at all to the Calibration light (in Sec. 4-19), and even that was simply to identify the light on the instrument panel. Nothing at all about what the light means if it comes on. Sec. 4-16 identifies the Calibration switch, located on the right-side fender cover, but says only that "The switch is to calibrate response of HST. Only for service," and says to contact the dealer "if you need to calibrate the action of HST."

Hard Knocks, do you know if the "safe mode" feature that we're talking about is new with the NX series? Seems to me this is something that Kioti should add to future printing of the owner's manual. Probably even worthy of a "sticky" on TBN's Kioti forum.

Time will tell if this is really the answer to the "popping into neutral" issue in my particular case. But seems to fit.

Hi 3-point. I'm new to tractors and this site. I'm having an issue much like you described in your 2016 post concerning your hst being out of calibration. If you still monitor this site could you write me back and try ro help me?

Thank you,

Pete

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Hi 3-point. I'm new to tractors and this site. I'm having an issue much like you described in your 2016 post concerning your hst being out of calibration. If you still monitor this site could you write me back and try ro help me?

If it is easier for you, my email is

Thank you,

Pete

Pete, delete your email before the bots find it and you're getting 300 offers a day in your in box. I think (but don't know) that the shift sending unit is installed on the transmission. I it likely a rotary style swtch and if I'm right, is item 52 on the equipment one group.

 

[Arnold-Zifflel]

Thank you Eric !

I have a cab tractor. I wonder how difficult would be to replace it myself. The dealer is 20 miles away. They want $300.00 just for pickup and delivery.

 

[Threepoint]

Hi 3-point. I'm new to tractors and this site. I'm having an issue much like you described in your 2016 post concerning your hst being out of calibration. If you still monitor this site could you write me back and try ro help me?

Thank you,

Pete

Hi Pete, welcome to TBN. The condition you describe above in your question to Hard Knox (post #1,313) is not what I was describing in my observations back in 2016 about depressing both the forward and reverse hydro pedals at the same time. In my case, it was indeed simply the system going into "safe mode" for about 3 seconds. No out-of-sync calibration and nothing wrong with my tractor. Once I understood the safe-mode issue, and have been more careful with my big feet, it's been a non-issue for the last 6 years.

Your case is a different issue, since it involves the inability to restart the tractor until you fiddle with the shift lever. I tend to agree with Eric's thought that your shift sending unit, part 52 in the diagram, might be what's causing your symptoms. Your condition indeed sounds like it's related to the safety switch, but whether it's a tempermental switch, or an out-of-adjustment shift linkage that's triggering the safety switch, I have no idea. Hopefully Eric can advise on how hard it would be to get to and replace the switch assembly. And whether there's an easy way to adjust the shift lever linkage before going to that length.

BTW, I notice that Hard Knox has not been seen on the forum since November, 2017, so I doubt he'll see your post! Maybe a private message would be relayed to him?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Thank you Eric !

I have a cab tractor. I wonder how difficult would be to replace it myself. The dealer is 20 miles away. They want $300.00 just for pickup and delivery.

$150 for each way isn't too bad considering chaining down time.

 

[Arnold-Zifflel]

Hi Pete, welcome to TBN. The condition you describe above in your question to Hard Knox (post #1,313) is not what I was describing in my observations back in 2016 about depressing both the forward and reverse hydro pedals at the same time. In my case, it was indeed simply the system going into "safe mode" for about 3 seconds. No out-of-sync calibration and nothing wrong with my tractor. Once I understood the safe-mode issue, and have been more careful with my big feet, it's been a non-issue for the last 6 years.

Your case is a different issue, since it involves the inability to restart the tractor until you fiddle with the shift lever. I tend to agree with Eric's thought that your shift sending unit, part 52 in the diagram, might be what's causing your symptoms. Your condition indeed sounds like it's related to the safety switch, but whether it's a tempermental switch, or an out-of-adjustment shift linkage that's triggering the safety switch, I have no idea. Hopefully Eric can advise on how hard it would be to get to and replace the switch assembly. And whether there's an easy way to adjust the shift lever linkage before going to that length.

BTW, I notice that Hard Knox has not been seen on the forum since November, 2017, so I doubt he'll see your post! Maybe a private message would be relayed to him?

Hi threepoint, thanks for the reply. I'm going to have to do something because aside from finding the right range, it is getting rather tough to move the shift lever. I don't want to force it. I suppose I'll have to have the Kioti dealer look at it.

 

[Arnold-Zifflel]

$150 for each way isn't too bad considering chaining down time.

It's probably fair, I'm just tight. That is almost 3 days pay just to transport it. No telling what the repair might cost?