Top link to short

[AHNC]

I have a BX2660 with the 48” BB. I want to set it far enough forward to only have a few inches of the rippers in the gravel driveway but the top link is a tight as possible and I can’t run it without the blade picking up a lot of gravel. The body of the top link is 12”. It is a replacement from the original which I picked up at TS. I have looked for longer rippers with no joy. Any suggestions?

 

[number two]

So the top link is actually too long,and you need it shorter to get the rear of the box blade higher?
That seems like an awfully short top link.
Would the OEM link be short enough?
Another option would be to get a quick hitch that would move the implement further to the rear,allowing the implement to tilt further forward,
Good Luck!

 

[JWR]

Anyone using a box scraper/box blade needs an hydraulic top link.

 

[Roadworthy]

You can get top links in different lengths. I needed a longer one when I added Pat's Quick Hitch. You may also be able to substitute a short length of chain for your top link. You may also be able to remove the rippers from your box blade. Mine are held in place with easily removable pins.

 

[npalen]

You can get top links in different lengths. I needed a longer one when I added Pat's Quick Hitch. You may also be able to substitute a short length of chain for your top link. You may also be able to remove the rippers from your box blade. Mine are held in place with easily removable pins.

My understanding is that the OP is wanting to use the rippers but not drag material and so the need for a shorter top link. It does need to be a rigid link otherwise the box blade would just roll forward on the lower lift arms.

A short piece of steel drilled on each end for the pins might work as a temporary top link for ripping.

 

[LD1]

Maybe a picture of your setup?

Are the rippers on the blade adjustable up and down? CAn you adjust them and achieve the same thing?

 

[AHNC]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, every BB should have hydraulics, but for the amount the BB gets used there is no joy in the expenditure for the hardware. Yes, I am trying to rip without dragging the dirt with the blade. Yes, the rippers are adjustable for length Orr depth, but I am at the deepest it can go. I believe that we have a winner in npalen’s suggestion in simply making a short temporary link out of plate. I only need to get to the top few inches of the driveway gravel.

 

[JWR]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, every BB should have hydraulics, but for the amount the BB gets used there is no joy in the expenditure for the hardware. Yes, I am trying to rip without dragging the dirt with the blade. Yes, the rippers are adjustable for length Orr depth, but I am at the deepest it can go. I believe that we have a winner in npalen’s suggestion in simply making a short temporary link out of plate. I only need to get to the top few inches of the driveway gravel.

The problem with the short temporary top link is lack of adjustment. It will be nearly impossible to get it made to the "best" length. You may be able to find a shorter adjustable top link ? Try your local dealers and TSC and others.

Actually you can probably get that 12" body length top link shortened by a welder (if you are not one) which seems the ideal solution. It would then be of long-term value to you, be adjustable, and very inexpensive. 15 minute job.

 

[ovrszd]

To determine the length you need, remove your top link, pull forward until the BB rolls forward where you want it to run. Stop tractor. Measure length between the two top link pins.

 

[npalen]

I've ran into an issue with tilting the box blade to get the ripper points down below the blade as the OP (AHNC) is trying to do. The ripper points, being "behind" the 3PH lower arm pivots, tend to raise as the box blade is pivoted by shortening the top link. The ripper point gets into a "vicious circle", one might say, and rapidly proceeds to a point of diminishing return.

 

[ovrszd]

There's a point where they are most effective. This might not raise the cutter as high as one would like. But it will most certainly raise the cutter enough to allow penetration without dragging material. I have done this many, many times.

The OP's issue could quickly be resolved by the method I mentioned earlier. Build a short top link to use when wanting to accomplish this type of ripping.

Yep. A hydraulic top link would be great. Especially if the OP could get someone to donate the costs.

Even if he buys a new piece of flat bar, $10 will build a short top link.

 

[ljjhouser]

Roadworthy mentioned Pat's quick hitch. If your top line really is too long, you can add Pats quick hitch to the lower arms. Then you can go back to TS and get a longer top link that has a much larger adjustment ranger. You will probably fine after you add Pats that your top link is too short. Pats adds about 4" to the length of the bottom arms.

After I added Pats to my tractor, I now use a 32" tip link from TS. It is used mainly with my 72" box blade.

 

[npalen]

Another issue with tilting the box blade to the back is that it changes the attack angle of the ripper points. The blunt angle can decrease the penetration and increase the draft a fair amount but probably not a show stopper in most cases. Kind of like a positive rake angle verses a negative on a lathe or milling tool.

Edit: Too bad the ripper shanks can't have one more adjustment hole on the top end.

 

[jmc]

You could make your own shorter body to use with your existing eye bolts. Just a piece of pipe with the proper nut size welded on each end, and a handle to turn it. Then it's just a matter of if the eyebolts need to be shortened.

 

[ovrszd]

You could make your own shorter body to use with your existing eye bolts. Just a piece of pipe with the proper nut size welded on each end, and a handle to turn it. Then it's just a matter of if the eyebolts need to be shortened.

Yep. I had high hopes of doing that once. Then I realized the thread pitch is unique. Couldn't find a nut that had the same threads.

 

[jmc]

Yep. I had high hopes of doing that once. Then I realized the thread pitch is unique. Couldn't find a nut that had the same threads.

Which reminds me, he would probably need to order left hand threads for the one end.