Advice on building a tractor shed?

[airbiscuit]

https://americansteelinc.com/#carports

 

[sunandsand]

A few thoughts on wiring (disclaimer and warning, I am NOT a licensed electrician!!!!!!), so consider this a "wish list", not instructions.

Run all interior wires in conduit. Use 12 gauge wire instead of 14, it is only a few cents more and you may need the extra capacity "someday". Use 3/4" conduit instead of 1/2". If you need to run an extra wire or two, the 3/4" makes your life very much easier (ask me how I know).

If you have overhead lights, you can run the wires to and between them in PVC conduit. Don't glue the conduit sections together, just friction fit them. If or rather when you want to change things "later" it is much easier. They are high enough so you can't run into them, that's why we use metal conduit down lower where we CAN run into it. Use illuminated on/off switches so you can find the light switch in the dark easily.

LOTS of grounded outlets, I like them no more than eight feet apart. GFCI protected of course. A GFCI can protect multiple "downstream" outlets, so you don't need one at every box. Note that there is a new specification for GFCIs, some places still have the old type lying around and will sell them.

Any outlets near water (faucets, sinks, bathrooms) should all be GFCI.

Put the conduit and the outlets about 3 or 4 feet off the floor. That way "stuff" on the floor doesn't get in the way, and you have power at a convenient height for your workbenches.

Place extra wires for 220 volts, you will probably need them before long (compressor or welder). The 220 volt outlets should be close to the service entrance, wires that carry a lot of current should be kept short.

110 and 220 outlets on the outside - you might want to plug in a battery charger or welder outside the building. GFCI protect the 110 outlet inside a weathertight box. The 220 outlet should have a switch inside the building to turn it on or off, and it should be clearly labeled "220 Volts Outside" "ON" and "OFF". The outside 110 outlets can also have a "kill" switch inside the building, this one gets a switch with a red light in it that turns on when you switch the outlet on.

GROUND THE BUILDING. Think about lightning protection. Definitely get a utility grade surge protector at the power entrance or breaker panel. (I have one on the service entrance on the house and another on the breaker panel in the hangar.)

Main disconnect for power to the building. Usually a metal box with a lever. Nice to be able to kill the power to the entire structure in an instant if you have to.

Check your work. Use an outlet tester (three lights, plugs in) on EACH outlet to make sure it is wired correctly. Label the breakers in the breaker box, and check that they actually turn off the circuits they are supposed to.

Outside security lights, LED spots with photocells, automatically on at dusk, off at dawn.

All these goodies cost money, but if you go to Garvin Electric (no affiliation) and convince them you are a business customer (tax number helps, occupational license also works), they'll send you a big catalog and you can buy all this stuff wholesale. You still have to buy the conduit locally, it is too long to economically ship.

Remember, I am NOT an electrician, this information is ONLY for speculative consideration, and is not instructions on how to do it. When in doubt, refer to your local code (usually NEC) and have your work supervised by a licensed electrician or done by one.

And don't forget fire extinguishers. If you have any Kidde brand extinguishers (they were sold under over a hundred different names) with plastic handles, there is a recall and Kidde will replace them FREE no matter how old they are. Problem is that the plastic handles get brittle and break off, rendering the fire extinguisher useless. They'll swap them in for brand new ones with metal handles at NO COST. These are found in homes, businesses, cars, boats, trailers, everywhere. Google for more information on this. ("Kidde recall" or similar.)

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida

 

[JethroB]

Well now I am looking at going with a steel carport thanks to you guys.....and my wife agrees.

Jethro B - where did you find that 18 x 21'...?

A local dealer for MaxSteel. You place your order and a crew shows up in a few weeks to erect it in a couple of hours. Lots of sizes and options but they have gotten expensive. I believe there are many such outfits supplying dealers around the US.

Customizable Metal Buildings For Sale | MaxSteel Buildings

Find your ideal metal building. We provide a variety of metal buildings including carports, barns, and more. All made in the USA! Rent-to-own options available.

www.maxsteelbuildings.com

 

[Will S]

Consider doing as much of the work as you can, and save a lot of the cost to build. Contact lumber suppliers, and ask for wholesale/contractor pricing, and that you are the general contractor for a construction project.

Do your own site-work; leveling, grading, spreading gravel, etc. You've got a tractor that can easily do that.
Buy 6x6 treated lumber for the poles, and drop a bag on concrete mix in each hole before setting the poles. Rent a 3-pt auger and set the poles (with a helper), add the perlins and sheath the corners with treated plywood for rigidity. I would (did) sheathe the lower 4' with treated ply, around the whole building, then regular plywood above that. Tyvec the exterior yourself.

Either have trusses made to your building size, and installed by others, or if you can round up enough help, hire a crane to pick them up and set the,. Sheath the roof and have a roofer shingle it for you. Get this done, and install doors. You can finish exterior a bit later, as budget catches up. Gravel floor until you can afford concrete.

Homeowners permit for electric saves a couple thousand, if you can do that sort of work. As long as it passes inspection, it doesn't matter who does the work.

This is what we did 12 years ago, and I'm really glad I listened, who told me the same as you're hearing... build it bigger than you think you need. I was going to build something around 24 x 36. I did a lot of the work, and put off what could be done later, and built 36 x 48. And many times I think I should have built a bit bigger.

The words "my building too big", said no one!

 

[3gunr]

A local dealer for MaxSteel. You place your order and a crew shows up in a few weeks to erect it in a couple of hours. Lots of sizes and options but they have gotten expensive. I believe there are many such outfits supplying dealers around the US.

Customizable Metal Buildings For Sale | MaxSteel Buildings

Find your ideal metal building. We provide a variety of metal buildings including carports, barns, and more. All made in the USA! Rent-to-own options available.

www.maxsteelbuildings.com

When i ordered my building i was told 16 weeks. Ended up being 20 weeks because of covid they said . But two guys put it up in 8 hrs, I sat in my lawn chair and for the first time in my 62 yrs watched someone else work. Very happy with the job.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Remember when the the roadside lots had these at $699 for a standard 18’x21’ ? I just priced one, now $2200.

View attachment 733130

Yep. I kick myself every time I think about it and not having bought one then.

 

[jyoutz]

Well now I am looking at going with a steel carport thanks to you guys.....and my wife agrees.

Jethro B - where did you find that 18 x 21'...?

If you just contact a local company, they have a wide range of sizes that they can build. These companies have a lot of customization options. And there’s one in Chino Valley near you.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

around here we try to avoid center posts as much as we can so not to limit flexibility and laminate WPF 2x6's to make posts.

So:
- 2 rows of 3 ply 2X6 PWF laminated and nailed together
- spaced 4' apart
- engineered trusses 4' spacing bearing on top of each post to create clear span
- 2x6 girts and purloins spaced 24" apart
- tin skinned

U$ 14.40 / sq. ft permits, labour, taxes, material and doors all in for 14' clear height built last summer using 2X8's as this building bigger than you want and 4 ply posts.... so your cost / sq foot would be even less as lumber prices have come down alot and you won't need 2x8's 4 ply for posts

 

[jyoutz]

around here we try to avoid center posts as much as we can so not to limit flexibility and laminate WPF 2x6's to make posts.

So:
- 2 rows of 3 ply 2X6 PWF laminated and nailed together
- spaced 4' apart
- engineered trusses 4' spacing bearing on top of each post to create clear span
- 2x6 girts and purloins spaced 24" apart
- tin skinned

View attachment 733182

Nice building. I built one like that in the 1990s. But if I were building today I would go steel because of lumber prices.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Versatube is another online company selling the galvanized frame carport/garage/barn structures. You may find cheaper locally. Can also buy just the frame from them if you have a metal company local that can roll the roofing panels.

If you go with poles, consider steel bar joist trusses. The carpenter bees around here love to eat exposed wooden trusses. Had to sheath the girts on the hay shed with flashing. Enclosìng building works to keep bees out, i only have to worry about wasps and mud daubers in the 108x48 horse barn.

 

[IH2424]

Well now that I have my new baby, I need to build a house for it. I'm thinking a pole style structure (but I cant find any poles, so I'll just use pressure treated posts. I'm also going to house my golf cart and riding mower in it as well. So I'm thinking 20 ft wide x 14 ft deep, using 9 poles (3 rows of 3). Shelves in the back for parts, oil, tools, etc..... Some kind of cover on the 3 side walls up to maybe 5-6 ft high....?

Can't decide yet whether to have a shed roof or gable....as I kinda have to place it, it will be facing more or less West and that is where the weather comes from (generally). But here in northern Arizona, we have not that much rain (15" yr) and it only snows a couple times a year, so I really just want to get these machines out of the direct weather and sun.

Thinking of running a couple of beams across at top plate level to hang/lift stuff from...?

All ideas welcome...I'm thinking you guys have done this before....

Disclosure: I am a long time builder so don't need any construction advice (necessarily), just looking for tips and tricks

Every shed ever built was too small before it was finished!

 

[Cranblue]

You might want to check with Eagle Carports. I was going to build a carport several years ago and after pricing out the materials, it was cheaper to order the carport than build. They have lots of different design options, including pole barn type. Just make sure that you have them install with the optional earth anchors. In the relatively low elevation Chino Valley where you live you may not get much snow load, but wind can be an issue, so I would order/design with the higher load ratings in mind.

Just had one put up here in Western NC they used rebar 3ft long drive threw bottom rail. Is this what your referring to or is there something else out there ??

 

[jyoutz]

Just had one put up here in Western NC they used rebar 3ft long drive threw bottom rail. Is this what your referring to or is there something else out there ??

Yes they use the rebar. I also had them add the earth anchors. They are spiral anchors that thy drive into the ground with a special machine. At the time, they cost $15 each, no doubt more now. I had them put one at each corner.

 

[Cranblue]

Yes they use the rebar. I also had them add the earth anchors. They are spiral anchors that thy dive into the ground with a special machine. At the time, they cost $15 each, no doubt more now. I had them put one at each corner.

That makes sense thx for info

 

[Cranblue]

In December I had a 20X24 shed installed to house my tractor and some attachments. With the price of lumber, and the challenge of digging posts where I live it was more cost effective to have an all metal structure built. All in less than 5K installed in three hours once it arrived.

View attachment 732619

What material in shed just put a 18x40 up looking at material for base.

 

[Cranblue]

I found a 20x20x10 carport for $3k. My materials to build it myself come to about $1200. So it looks like I'll be building one more time.....I would really rather just buy

Remember the steel tariffs? The prices went up and not back down.

Just had an 18x40 10 ft sides little over 8k 2 years ago may have been 6500 ? I’m in Western NC and did get 3 other quotes !!

 

[Cranblue]

When i ordered my building i was told 16 weeks. Ended up being 20 weeks because of covid they said . But two guys put it up in 8 hrs, I sat in my lawn chair and for the first time in my 62 yrs watched someone else work. Very happy with the job.

Here in Western NC I ordered one last Tuesday was put up today was told 3-6 weeks was pleasantly surprised.

 

[mikester]

1. insulated concrete floors with proper slope for effective drainage
2. very well insulated walls and roof
3. low cost heat source
4. receptacles and air drops at each building column or along regular intervals
5. very good LED lighting with three way switches
6. pallet racks for implement storage
7. floor drains/catch basins at roll up doors
8. running water / toilet
9. ceiling fans for air movement
10. exhaust fan to remove welding/cutting smoke or engine exhaust or sweeping dust
11. eavestroughs and underground water drainage away from building
12. elevation and very good drainage slope away from building
13. insulated electric roll up doors with remotes
14. good interior height enough for a car/truck lift
15. hot water pressure washer
16. some way to know mud off tractor or easy way to clean floors after
17. sound proof vestibule for air compressor
18. non-slip oil resistant epoxy floor coating thats easy to clean
19. interior walls clad with steel resistant to flame/sparks from welding/cutting
20. double the floor space that you think you need
21. internet access in the barn
22. pool table/couch to sleep on when you are in the dog house
23. coin operated beer fridge for your when your neighbours come to drink all your beers

 

[swreeder]

What material in shed just put a 18x40 up looking at material for base.

I used 3/4" limestone with fines mixed in.

 

[3gunr]

Here in Western NC I ordered one last Tuesday was put up today was told 3-6 weeks was pleasantly surprised.

Thats great, Who did you order from? THat is a long narrow building , Is it for a particular piece of equipment?