ck3510se, hydraulic leak somewhere on 3pt valve area

[NYCheese]

Was out brush mowing for a few hours today, without any issues. Rough terrain, but mostly just pasture grass and weeds, goldenrod, etc... When I called it a day, I raised up the mower to drive home on the road, and immediately smelled hot hydraulic fluid. Got off the tractor, but didn't initially see anything. Drove 1/4 mile home, and left a trail on the road the whole way. Got under the tractor and saw this mess. It's definitely coming from the 3pt valve somewhere, but I can't see exactly where. If I lower the 3pt all the way, it seems to stop leaking (or at least slow to a drip). If I raise it with the mower still attached, it sprays a pretty large amount of oil under there somewhere.

I bought the tractor new in 2019, so I'm hoping this will be a warranty issue, but I don't expect to hear from the dealer until monday at the earliest. Anything I can do, or should do, in the meantime? Or just wait to talk to the dealer? Looks like a pretty big job, would have to at least remove the fender and seat panels just to get access to the valve.

 

[K5lwq]

Looks like damage to the steel line feeding the rear remotes. It is hard to tell in the picture but I would look closely at the lines, hoses and filters. I doubt a actual leak with the 3pt. Also do not believe it will be covered under a warranty.

 

[NYCheese]

Looks like damage to the steel line feeding the rear remotes. It is hard to tell in the picture but I would look closely at the lines, hoses and filters. I doubt a actual leak with the 3pt. Also do not believe it will be covered under a warranty.

Thanks. Yeah the picture is a mess. It was starting to get dark, and everything was hot, so not a whole lot I could do tonight. I really have no idea where it's coming out from. The filter on that side has oil all over it, but it's def. coming from the valve area above the filter. I'll see if I can get a better look tomorrow. Was just a normal day of mowing though, really no idea how something could have been damaged. But at 550hrs, doesn't seem like it would be a manufacturing defect at this point either.

 

[Clintock]

Best way to tell where it’s coming from is to have someone you trust COMPLETELY AND IS PROFICIENT at running a tractor raise and lower the 3 point while you are looking at the valve to see where it’s coming from. Be sure tractor is in neutral, brakes locked. Wheels chocked. I’ve had a small drip from the top of my transmission somewhere since the day I got it. Can’t find it without removing station. Leaks about a gallon a year so I’m really not worried about it.

 

[K5lwq]

Please be careful looking for a leak while the tractor is running. The natural thing to do is feel with your hand. Hydraulic fluid leaking under pressure will cut you like butter. Do not do that. It can be fatal.

 

[NYCheese]

Please be careful looking for a leak while the tractor is running. The natural thing to do is feel with your hand. Hydraulic fluid leaking under pressure will cut you like butter. Do not do that. It can be fatal.

I know, but thank you, good advice for anyone that might be reading this post in the future. Was it AvE on youtube that said "don't put your fingers anywhere you wouldn't put your d**k" ?

 

[NYCheese]

Best way to tell where it’s coming from is to have someone you trust COMPLETELY AND IS PROFICIENT at running a tractor raise and lower the 3 point while you are looking at the valve to see where it’s coming from. Be sure tractor is in neutral, brakes locked. Wheels chocked. I’ve had a small drip from the top of my transmission somewhere since the day I got it. Can’t find it without removing station. Leaks about a gallon a year so I’m really not worried about it.

I think I probably lost a gallon during the 1/4 mile drive home, so I def. can't ignore it. I might try to get a better look at it tomorrow, but I don't think I'm gonna start pulling anything apart until I talk to the dealer on monday. Should be easier to see if I remove the fender, but I didn't even get a chance tonight to see what it takes to get the fender off.

 

[Stan B]

I think I probably lost a gallon during the 1/4 mile drive home, so I def. can't ignore it. I might try to get a better look at it tomorrow, but I don't think I'm gonna start pulling anything apart until I talk to the dealer on monday. Should be easier to see if I remove the fender, but I didn't even get a chance tonight to see what it takes to get the fender off.

The seat and panel below it is pretty easy to remove and should give you visibility on all the 3pt stuff. I seem to remember reading something about a fitting on a CK3510 that was in that area with a bad o-ring from the factory. It didn't start leaking until the "paint seal" gave way.

 

[NYCheese]

The seat and panel below it is pretty easy to remove and should give you visibility on all the 3pt stuff. I seem to remember reading something about a fitting on a CK3510 that was in that area with a bad o-ring from the factory. It didn't start leaking until the "paint seal" gave way.

You might be exactly right. Spent all morning on it, pulled the seat and the fender off. Started it up for a moment, just to see where the leak is....and sure looks like a blown seal to me. Took a short video as well, but I'm not sure how to post that here. I'm not doing anything else with it until I talk to the dealer on monday, but at least now I know exactly where it's coming from.

 

[NYCheese]

Tried to make a GIF of a video I took, but still won't let me upload it here. Found somewhere else to upload it, here's the link. https://gifyu.com/image/Xnfr

Not great quality, but gets the point across. Sure looks like just a blown seal (o ring) to me.

 

[K5lwq]

After watching your video I think it may actually be coming from this hose.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Tried to make a GIF of a video I took, but still won't let me upload it here. Found somewhere else to upload it, here's the link. https://gifyu.com/image/Xnfr

Not great quality, but gets the point across. Sure looks like just a blown seal (o ring) to me.

You can always upload to youtube and just set it to Private, meaning only those with a link can see it.

 

[NYCheese]

After watching your video I think it may actually be coming from this hose.

View attachment 715416

Wow, you know what, you might be right. It sure looked like it was where I put the arrow, but I didn't want to get my face or hands too close, and risk getting injured. I watched my original video in slow-mo, and it sure does look like it's coming from the hard line. I think it's the one below where you circled though. I'll have to see if I can get the camera in there, with the tractor off, and see if I can get a picture of the other side of those lines.

Thank you for pointing this out!

 

[Midniteoyl]

Wow, you know what, you might be right. It sure looked like it was where I put the arrow, but I didn't want to get my face or hands too close, and risk getting injured. I watched my original video in slow-mo, and it sure does look like it's coming from the hard line. I think it's the one below where you circled though. I'll have to see if I can get the camera in there, with the tractor off, and see if I can get a picture of the other side of those lines.

Thank you for pointing this out!

Easy way is to slip something, like a piece of scrap plywood, in between and see which side gets wet.

 

[_RaT_]

After watching your video I think it may actually be coming from this hose.

View attachment 715416

I agree, hose/tube is the culprit.

 

[NYCheese]

Well, I had to go check again, and turns out, we were sort of both right lol. It IS an O-ring, but it's on the hard line, not on the valve body. Was super easy to get to from under the seat, and it's probably like a dollar for a new o ring. Here's a couple pictures of it. In the 2nd picture, the failed o ring is on the back side of the line, hence why it was spraying oil out from that side.

 

[K5lwq]

Looks like a easy repair. Glad you located the problem.

 

[NYCheese]

Looks like a easy repair. Glad you located the problem.

Yep, I was super worried about it last night, seemed like it was going to be a nightmare, and I've still got lots of mowing left to do. Still gotta wait til monday to find the o-ring somewhere locally, but I'll sleep better tonight, knowing that I don't have to spend a fortune or wait for parts. Thanks again for pointing out the actual leak location, really helped me out quite a bit!

 

[310-510]

I blew plenty of O-rings. The hard line was replaced, the valve body was replaced, and after several 150 mile trips to the dealer, several self repairs, and many months of fighting leaks, I reached out to MIE.

From MIE,
For the return line from the Rear Hydraulic Valve to the Top of the Transmission Case, use Parker O-Ring Number 43005682-116. These are High Pressure / Temperature poly O-Rings. You will need (4) of them, 2 at the valve and 2 at the top of the transmission. Make sure you lubricate the O-Rings and torque the Banjo Bolts to 38ft-lbs. We have not had a single leak since we started installing these O-Rings with the proper Banjo Bolt Torque on all of our CK10SE Tractors a couple years ago. They can be sourced at any Parker Store, or at Mcmaster Carr part number 9558K548.

We do this on every CK10SE Tractor we sell. The "green" o-rings that are used at the factory are suspect....


After purchasing the new O-rings from McMaster Carr, I am glad to say the tractor has not leaked again in over 300 hours.

Thank you MIE,

Carl

 

[Midniteoyl]

Yep, higher temp.. Spec'd for ~60F more.

Normal:

Product Features:

• Size -116
• 90A Durometer Polyurethane
• 3/4" Inside Diameter
• 15/16" Outside Diameter
• 3/32" Cross Section

Translucent polyurethane is compatible with a variety of chemicals for virtually any sealing application. 90A durometer (hardness) for resistance to penetration and tearing. For use in temperature applications between -60 F to 212 F (-51 C to 100 C). Meets Aerospace Standard AS568A.

______________________________________

Parker Resilon:

Technical Specifications​

O-Ring Dash Size: 2-116 Seal Material: P4300A90 Inside Diameter: 0.737 inch Cross Section Width: 0.103 inch Polymer Material Options: Polyurethane (TPU)
Durometer: 90 (Shore A)
Minimum Operating Temperature: -65 °F Maximum Operating Temperature: 275 °F
Chemical Compatibility: Oil, Ozone
Industry: Industrial
Specifications Met: AS568B Sizes, USP Class VI


Not 'cheap' as they are $3 each at McMaster, and the normal ones are $21 for a 25pk, but if they work who cares?

Thanks @carsce