ck3510se, hydraulic leak somewhere on 3pt valve area

[NYCheese]

I blew plenty of O-rings. The hard line was replaced, the valve body was replaced, and after several 150 mile trips to the dealer, several self repairs, and many months of fighting leaks, I reached out to MIE.

From MIE,
For the return line from the Rear Hydraulic Valve to the Top of the Transmission Case, use Parker O-Ring Number 43005682-116. These are High Pressure / Temperature poly O-Rings. You will need (4) of them, 2 at the valve and 2 at the top of the transmission. Make sure you lubricate the O-Rings and torque the Banjo Bolts to 38ft-lbs. We have not had a single leak since we started installing these O-Rings with the proper Banjo Bolt Torque on all of our CK10SE Tractors a couple years ago. They can be sourced at any Parker Store, or at Mcmaster Carr part number 9558K548.

We do this on every CK10SE Tractor we sell. The "green" o-rings that are used at the factory are suspect....


After purchasing the new O-rings from McMaster Carr, I am glad to say the tractor has not leaked again in over 300 hours.

Thank you MIE,

Carl

Thank you for the info. I figured I'd replace all 4 on that hard line since I have it off anyway. I'm gonna go to a local truck/hydraulic shop on monday and see what they've got, at least to get me back in the fields mowing for now, but I'll be sure to order some of the ones you suggested. I don't care if they cost a few bucks each, it's worth it, if it prevents the downtime.

 

[Beeenvenue]

2017-2019 SE models have a dealer notice for this. Mine had it. Replacing oring probably won’t keep it from happening again if this is your issue. (New fitting left, original on right)

 

[_RaT_]

Thank you for the info. I figured I'd replace all 4 on that hard line since I have it off anyway. I'm gonna go to a local truck/hydraulic shop on monday and see what they've got, at least to get me back in the fields mowing for now, but I'll be sure to order some of the ones you suggested. I don't care if they cost a few bucks each, it's worth it, if it prevents the downtime.

On another note, I did not see if you posted the hours you put on so far. I have only 49 hours on my 3510 SE HST. I have found lots of bolts that have backed off. Left front wheel lug nuts, all loader frame bolts, the little 10mm retainers on the loader bushings, the range selector flex fittings.... I did change all oils at 43 hours including the hydraulic oil that was used elsewhere. Surprising amount of very, very fine and shiny metal in both hydraulic and engine oil. Refilled with 5 gallons of Kubota UDT 2. The loader bolts were loose after I moved about 200 yards of dirt. In only 49 hours I went through a tube of grease on the loader. Installed a flail mower today that was a PIA getting the clutch end to slide onto the mower gearbox. After about 3-4 hours of grinding, sanding and checking, it went on. Mower was a brand new WoodMaxx 62". I did pull the seat and bypassed the gear neutral switch to allow starts and stops without shutting down the engine. I found that the biggest PIA on this tractor. None of my tractors have had it and in some ways, it is more hazardous having it then not especially if you live on a slope. You still have to be in the seat and the brake on, that's fine, but neutral on a slope, the second you let off the brake you are free wheeling as opposed to being in gear and slow wheeling. Much to finicky on the "N" to start or get off the tractor while it was running. Glad you got this hydraulic leak figured out.

 

[NYCheese]

2017-2019 SE models have a dealer notice for this. Mine had it. Replacing oring probably won’t keep it from happening again if this is your issue. (New fitting left, original on right)

Interesting. Sure does look like I probably have the older one. I made it 550 hours before this, so for right now I'm just gonna get the o-rings, so I can finish up my mowing for this year. I can try to order the new part over the winter. Oddly though, I put that part # into MIE's part finder, and it yielded no results.

Now I'm wondering if there were other dealer notices that I should be aware of.

 

[NYCheese]

On another note, I did not see if you posted the hours you put on so far. I have only 49 hours on my 3510 SE HST. I have found lots of bolts that have backed off. Left front wheel lug nuts, all loader frame bolts, the little 10mm retainers on the loader bushings, the range selector flex fittings.... I did change all oils at 43 hours including the hydraulic oil that was used elsewhere. Surprising amount of very, very fine and shiny metal in both hydraulic and engine oil. Refilled with 5 gallons of Kubota UDT 2. The loader bolts were loose after I moved about 200 yards of dirt. In only 49 hours I went through a tube of grease on the loader. Installed a flail mower today that was a PIA getting the clutch end to slide onto the mower gearbox. After about 3-4 hours of grinding, sanding and checking, it went on. Mower was a brand new WoodMaxx 62". I did pull the seat and bypassed the gear neutral switch to allow starts and stops without shutting down the engine. I found that the biggest PIA on this tractor. None of my tractors have had it and in some ways, it is more hazardous having it then not especially if you live on a slope. You still have to be in the seat and the brake on, that's fine, but neutral on a slope, the second you let off the brake you are free wheeling as opposed to being in gear and slow wheeling. Much to finicky on the "N" to start or get off the tractor while it was running. Glad you got this hydraulic leak figured out.

550 hours. I haven't found much at all loose on mine. I had 1 loader bolt come 1/4 turn loose, but I check them every time I change the engine oil. My engine oil has always been pretty clean, no metal (and I cut filters open every time). When I replaced hydro fluid @ 400 hours, I used Mobil Delvac (424), and while there was some fine metal residue on the plug, it was very minor, nothing to be worried about. I bought mine with a backhoe, so all of the safety switches were already disabled when it was delivered. I've been overall very pleased with this tractor. It hasn't been 100% problem free, but nothing is. I had the plastic radiator fan just decide one day to drop 1 blade off it. (must've been a manufacturing defect in the plastic) I do have a bit of a floppy loader bucket, but my dealer solved that with a flow control valve.

 

[_RaT_]

550 hours. I haven't found much at all loose on mine. I had 1 loader bolt come 1/4 turn loose, but I check them every time I change the engine oil. My engine oil has always been pretty clean, no metal (and I cut filters open every time). When I replaced hydro fluid @ 400 hours, I used Mobil Delvac (424), and while there was some fine metal residue on the plug, it was very minor, nothing to be worried about. I bought mine with a backhoe, so all of the safety switches were already disabled when it was delivered. I've been overall very pleased with this tractor. It hasn't been 100% problem free, but nothing is. I had the plastic radiator fan just decide one day to drop 1 blade off it. (must've been a manufacturing defect in the plastic) I do have a bit of a floppy loader bucket, but my dealer solved that with a flow control valve.

Where is the flow control valve installed? That is the biggest difference between my previous Kubota's (4 in total) and their regenerative circuit and the Kioti.

 

[Amvcane]

Interesting. Sure does look like I probably have the older one. I made it 550 hours before this, so for right now I'm just gonna get the o-rings, so I can finish up my mowing for this year. I can try to order the new part over the winter. Oddly though, I put that part # into MIE's part finder, and it yielded no results.

Now I'm wondering if there were other dealer notices that I should be aware of.

It looks like the older fitting doesn't have that flat o-ring mating surface machined. I would think you could remove the original fitting and sand a flat on it with a piece of sandpaper on the workbench. Like you would flatten a small engine cylinder head. At least it would take out any imperfections which could cause a leak.

 

[Stan B]

Where is the flow control valve installed? That is the biggest difference between my previous Kubota's (4 in total) and their regenerative circuit and the Kioti.

Kioti ck3510 loader issue

Yeah all that sounds like a good summary, K5. But what i need is some info on what kind of valve to buy and where to install it. Anyone have links and pics they could share?

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[NYCheese]

Kioti ck3510 loader issue

Yeah all that sounds like a good summary, K5. But what i need is some info on what kind of valve to buy and where to install it. Anyone have links and pics they could share?

www.tractorbynet.com

That's exactly what I've got.

 

[Beeenvenue]

It looks like the older fitting doesn't have that flat o-ring mating surface machined. I would think you could remove the original fitting and sand a flat on it with a piece of sandpaper on the workbench. Like you would flatten a small engine cylinder head. At least it would take out any imperfections which could cause a leak.

My dealer said it had to do with the size of the fitting doing s better job of fully encapsulating the oring. I let him handle it under warranty so I can’t say for sure

 

[NYCheese]

My dealer said it had to do with the size of the fitting doing s better job of fully encapsulating the oring. I let him handle it under warranty so I can’t say for sure

That was my thought as well. More "meat" behind the O-ring, in theory should make it harder for the pressure to find a way out.

My dealer did say this morning that just using the better quality O-rings solved the problem for one of his other customers. He thinks he has a set of them, just waiting to hear back if/when he finds them.

 

[Tony H]

Thanks. Yeah the picture is a mess. It was starting to get dark, and everything was hot, so not a whole lot I could do tonight. I really have no idea where it's coming out from. The filter on that side has oil all over it, but it's def. coming from the valve area above the filter. I'll see if I can get a better look tomorrow. Was just a normal day of mowing though, really no idea how something could have been damaged. But at 550hrs, doesn't seem like it would be a manufacturing defect at this point either.

I would soap up and hose down the area. When nice and clean and dry, have someone else fire up the tractor and you can hopefully eyeball what gets wet. I just went through this with my backhoe. 7p0 hours on the tractor, all lines look great as it is garage kept. One hose just weeped thru what looks to be a perfectly good hose. The hose make guy was a big help. "yea, dude, sometimes they just leak. " big help.

 

[NYCheese]

Unfortunately, my dealer couldn't find the set of Orings that he thought he still had, but that's ok. I ordered some from McMaster Carr, and they should be here in a day or two. At least when all said and done, it's a cheap fix, and only a few days of downtime. Thanks again to everyone that provided info and suggestions in this thread.

Anyone reading this thread in the future, don't let it scare you away from Kioti tractors. Even though I've had a couple issues with mine, they've turned out to be pretty minor, and with 550hrs on it, I'm overall still extremely happy with my tractor. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one (but hopefully I never have to lol).

 

[rich1023]

You might be exactly right. Spent all morning on it, pulled the seat and the fender off. Started it up for a moment, just to see where the leak is....and sure looks like a blown seal to me. Took a short video as well, but I'm not sure how to post that here. I'm not doing anything else with it until I talk to the dealer on monday, but at least now I know exactly where it's coming from.


View attachment 715412

Hey NY, looks like you are blessed, this would look a lot worse come Dec, Jan!

 

[Mart5130]

I think I probably lost a gallon during the 1/4 mile drive home, so I def. can't ignore it. I might try to get a better look at it tomorrow, but I don't think I'm gonna start pulling anything apart until I talk to the dealer on monday. Should be easier to see if I remove the fender, but I didn't even get a chance tonight to see what it takes to get the fender off.

I have a 2020 CK 3510 that blew a hydraulic seal above the 3 pt. Very hard to see but dealer fixed it under warranty. Said they had a few that had a bad batch of seals. You had to look just under the seat to see it - it was a metal hydraulic line that joined another line. The seal was actually green. Dealer fixed it right in the lot on my trailer. The tech had to remove the seat, and then the right rear tire. I’ll se if I can find the picture I took of it

 

[Mart5130]

The seat and panel below it is pretty easy to remove and should give you visibility on all the 3pt stuff. I seem to remember reading something about a fitting on a CK3510 that was in that area with a bad o-ring from the factory. It didn't start leaking until the "paint seal" gave way.

That’s what happened with my ck3510

 

[NYCheese]

Final update:

McMaster-Carr somehow got the O-rings to me in 1 day! I put the new ones on, they're definitely a firmer material. Torqued to 38ft/lbs, and have since done about 15hrs of brush hogging, without any issues. I did not get the new connector part (yet), but I did take some 400 grit sandpaper and sanded down the end of the original connector, which was covered in paint overspray. Got it to a shiny smooth surface before re-assembling.

 

[rodneyn]

Trade name o-rings use viton extreme or kalrez - material name is called “perfluorelastomer” These type of o-rings are impervious to oil exposure. I deal with o-rings daily as design engineer for e-stat paint equipment. We have to have oil and solvent resistant o-rings in our application.