ck3510se, hydraulic leak somewhere on 3pt valve area

[NYCheese]

I blew plenty of O-rings. The hard line was replaced, the valve body was replaced, and after several 150 mile trips to the dealer, several self repairs, and many months of fighting leaks, I reached out to MIE.

From MIE,
For the return line from the Rear Hydraulic Valve to the Top of the Transmission Case, use Parker O-Ring Number 43005682-116. These are High Pressure / Temperature poly O-Rings. You will need (4) of them, 2 at the valve and 2 at the top of the transmission. Make sure you lubricate the O-Rings and torque the Banjo Bolts to 38ft-lbs. We have not had a single leak since we started installing these O-Rings with the proper Banjo Bolt Torque on all of our CK10SE Tractors a couple years ago. They can be sourced at any Parker Store, or at Mcmaster Carr part number 9558K548.

We do this on every CK10SE Tractor we sell. The "green" o-rings that are used at the factory are suspect....


After purchasing the new O-rings from McMaster Carr, I am glad to say the tractor has not leaked again in over 300 hours.

Thank you MIE,

Carl

Thank you for the info. I figured I'd replace all 4 on that hard line since I have it off anyway. I'm gonna go to a local truck/hydraulic shop on monday and see what they've got, at least to get me back in the fields mowing for now, but I'll be sure to order some of the ones you suggested. I don't care if they cost a few bucks each, it's worth it, if it prevents the downtime.

 

[Beeenvenue]

2017-2019 SE models have a dealer notice for this. Mine had it. Replacing oring probably won’t keep it from happening again if this is your issue. (New fitting left, original on right)

 

[_RaT_]

Thank you for the info. I figured I'd replace all 4 on that hard line since I have it off anyway. I'm gonna go to a local truck/hydraulic shop on monday and see what they've got, at least to get me back in the fields mowing for now, but I'll be sure to order some of the ones you suggested. I don't care if they cost a few bucks each, it's worth it, if it prevents the downtime.

On another note, I did not see if you posted the hours you put on so far. I have only 49 hours on my 3510 SE HST. I have found lots of bolts that have backed off. Left front wheel lug nuts, all loader frame bolts, the little 10mm retainers on the loader bushings, the range selector flex fittings.... I did change all oils at 43 hours including the hydraulic oil that was used elsewhere. Surprising amount of very, very fine and shiny metal in both hydraulic and engine oil. Refilled with 5 gallons of Kubota UDT 2. The loader bolts were loose after I moved about 200 yards of dirt. In only 49 hours I went through a tube of grease on the loader. Installed a flail mower today that was a PIA getting the clutch end to slide onto the mower gearbox. After about 3-4 hours of grinding, sanding and checking, it went on. Mower was a brand new WoodMaxx 62". I did pull the seat and bypassed the gear neutral switch to allow starts and stops without shutting down the engine. I found that the biggest PIA on this tractor. None of my tractors have had it and in some ways, it is more hazardous having it then not especially if you live on a slope. You still have to be in the seat and the brake on, that's fine, but neutral on a slope, the second you let off the brake you are free wheeling as opposed to being in gear and slow wheeling. Much to finicky on the "N" to start or get off the tractor while it was running. Glad you got this hydraulic leak figured out.

 

[NYCheese]

2017-2019 SE models have a dealer notice for this. Mine had it. Replacing oring probably won’t keep it from happening again if this is your issue. (New fitting left, original on right)

Interesting. Sure does look like I probably have the older one. I made it 550 hours before this, so for right now I'm just gonna get the o-rings, so I can finish up my mowing for this year. I can try to order the new part over the winter. Oddly though, I put that part # into MIE's part finder, and it yielded no results.

Now I'm wondering if there were other dealer notices that I should be aware of.

 

[NYCheese]

On another note, I did not see if you posted the hours you put on so far. I have only 49 hours on my 3510 SE HST. I have found lots of bolts that have backed off. Left front wheel lug nuts, all loader frame bolts, the little 10mm retainers on the loader bushings, the range selector flex fittings.... I did change all oils at 43 hours including the hydraulic oil that was used elsewhere. Surprising amount of very, very fine and shiny metal in both hydraulic and engine oil. Refilled with 5 gallons of Kubota UDT 2. The loader bolts were loose after I moved about 200 yards of dirt. In only 49 hours I went through a tube of grease on the loader. Installed a flail mower today that was a PIA getting the clutch end to slide onto the mower gearbox. After about 3-4 hours of grinding, sanding and checking, it went on. Mower was a brand new WoodMaxx 62". I did pull the seat and bypassed the gear neutral switch to allow starts and stops without shutting down the engine. I found that the biggest PIA on this tractor. None of my tractors have had it and in some ways, it is more hazardous having it then not especially if you live on a slope. You still have to be in the seat and the brake on, that's fine, but neutral on a slope, the second you let off the brake you are free wheeling as opposed to being in gear and slow wheeling. Much to finicky on the "N" to start or get off the tractor while it was running. Glad you got this hydraulic leak figured out.

550 hours. I haven't found much at all loose on mine. I had 1 loader bolt come 1/4 turn loose, but I check them every time I change the engine oil. My engine oil has always been pretty clean, no metal (and I cut filters open every time). When I replaced hydro fluid @ 400 hours, I used Mobil Delvac (424), and while there was some fine metal residue on the plug, it was very minor, nothing to be worried about. I bought mine with a backhoe, so all of the safety switches were already disabled when it was delivered. I've been overall very pleased with this tractor. It hasn't been 100% problem free, but nothing is. I had the plastic radiator fan just decide one day to drop 1 blade off it. (must've been a manufacturing defect in the plastic) I do have a bit of a floppy loader bucket, but my dealer solved that with a flow control valve.

 

[_RaT_]

550 hours. I haven't found much at all loose on mine. I had 1 loader bolt come 1/4 turn loose, but I check them every time I change the engine oil. My engine oil has always been pretty clean, no metal (and I cut filters open every time). When I replaced hydro fluid @ 400 hours, I used Mobil Delvac (424), and while there was some fine metal residue on the plug, it was very minor, nothing to be worried about. I bought mine with a backhoe, so all of the safety switches were already disabled when it was delivered. I've been overall very pleased with this tractor. It hasn't been 100% problem free, but nothing is. I had the plastic radiator fan just decide one day to drop 1 blade off it. (must've been a manufacturing defect in the plastic) I do have a bit of a floppy loader bucket, but my dealer solved that with a flow control valve.

Where is the flow control valve installed? That is the biggest difference between my previous Kubota's (4 in total) and their regenerative circuit and the Kioti.

 

[Amvcane]

Interesting. Sure does look like I probably have the older one. I made it 550 hours before this, so for right now I'm just gonna get the o-rings, so I can finish up my mowing for this year. I can try to order the new part over the winter. Oddly though, I put that part # into MIE's part finder, and it yielded no results.

Now I'm wondering if there were other dealer notices that I should be aware of.

It looks like the older fitting doesn't have that flat o-ring mating surface machined. I would think you could remove the original fitting and sand a flat on it with a piece of sandpaper on the workbench. Like you would flatten a small engine cylinder head. At least it would take out any imperfections which could cause a leak.

 

[Stan B]

Where is the flow control valve installed? That is the biggest difference between my previous Kubota's (4 in total) and their regenerative circuit and the Kioti.

Kioti ck3510 loader issue

Yeah all that sounds like a good summary, K5. But what i need is some info on what kind of valve to buy and where to install it. Anyone have links and pics they could share?

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[NYCheese]

Kioti ck3510 loader issue

Yeah all that sounds like a good summary, K5. But what i need is some info on what kind of valve to buy and where to install it. Anyone have links and pics they could share?

www.tractorbynet.com

That's exactly what I've got.

 

[Beeenvenue]

It looks like the older fitting doesn't have that flat o-ring mating surface machined. I would think you could remove the original fitting and sand a flat on it with a piece of sandpaper on the workbench. Like you would flatten a small engine cylinder head. At least it would take out any imperfections which could cause a leak.

My dealer said it had to do with the size of the fitting doing s better job of fully encapsulating the oring. I let him handle it under warranty so I can’t say for sure