Why buy a Deere CUT?

/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #21  
In the OP’s first post, he has already done his homework..
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #22  
I have a Kubota B2710 which I bought used about 13 or 14 years ago with about 200 hours on it. It does not have loader and wish it did but never thought of loader on it when shopping. Like it a good bit and have used in in some ways that some would be surprised at. Have pulled 500 gallon sprayer with it, dirt was firm or it would not have done that as the loaded sprayer out weights it. Great with rough cut mower in the woods as it is easy to back into tight spots. I have brother in law with a 4 series JD he bought last year I have operated maybe 2 hours. Big difference in the size of the two tractors and I really prefer the JD 4 in size over my B2710. This is not an apple to apple and I realize that but for what is worth:
Kubota (I have two one bought new in 1999 a M6800) and they rust. Sorry. Metal hoods and fenders get scratched and they rust. Weld seams on roll bars rust. It not just mine I have noticed that on either. Reminds me of the Japanese cars from maybe the 70's.
My B2710 does have 3 speed HST and my brother in laws JD 4 series has 2 speed HST and noticed that right off. His JD has fel and used it a good bit and never had issue with it needing another speed. In reality the lowest range on my Kubota is only used for improper reason, using to move tractor while standing on the ground to hook implement. On the JD to me the fel control was in bad location as I would hit it when turning to right to watch backing up. Took me a little while to realize why the loader was changing when backing.

Again my B2710 and the JD series 4 are not same size but think the lift arms are heavier on the JD but those on my Kubota have done well even though both of the sliding stabilizers have slight bows in them.

For my nickle the Kubota makes very good engine but think their transmission is light weight compared to JD. This has shown up with my M6800 twice requiring transmission repairs under 1,000 hours.

Have used the rocker pedal on the Kubota HST for years but think the side by side of the JD is easier as it does not require the lifting of the foot to change the direction.

I have enjoyed my two Kubotas and may buy another but three years ago bought a used JD larger tractor and prefer the JD. Might sound odd but it just feels great. Have others who has used it and they say the same about how good that tractor is to use with comfort being some of it.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #23  
You asked what drives Deere owners to get a Deere in your original post so here it is. No one could touch the deal I got. If that deal would have been Kubota I would have Orange in the garage instead of Green. It was just that simple for me. So if you go on line and price compare MSRP then you are correct, less tractor more money. But if you actually do some shopping around there are deals to be had.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I've been looking some at the used market and can find, pretty reliably, newish used Deere 3038e and 3032e models. These are priced significantly lower than the new price. Makes them much more competitive with brand new offerings from Kioti which is currently my target for a brand new tractor. I am very hesitant to buy used, but United Ag who sells Deere in my area has a pretty big dealer web and that makes me feel comfortable buying used from them. We will see - I am not pulling the trigger any sooner than the end of the year and possible a little longer than that.

Thanks for all your input. If anyone has experience, comments or opinions on the 3032e or 3038e, I would be interested in reading them. Curious how significant a move from the 3032e to the 3038e would be. I plan mainly to use the tractor for clearing brush with a grapple and shredder. My property is heavily wooded, so I will not be mowing big grass fields. There is some slope, but not too steep as the soil is pretty much sand.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #25  
my neighbor has a 3032e, its been a good tractor for him - I have used it a few times doing box blade and loader work around my place/garden I liked it fine, it didn't seem to be as strong as my 2038R in the high range running down the road his seems to have less power and it was noticeable I realize mine is a few hp more and lighter but I wouldn't have thought it would have been as noticeable - he just wishes he would have gotten one that he could put a MMM on, you cannot on the 3032e he has - im not sure if that is the case with all of the 3032e models. im sure his will lift more due to the 3series chassis vs my 2 series but for what I do the 2 series is fine.

It sounds like the 3032e would be a great machine for you or the 38e - i don't know how a 3038 would compare to the 3032 but i can tell a difference with my 2038 compared to his 3032 - maybe its the difference in the hydros and gearing - not sure
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #26  
You've heard a lot of comments about dealers here, I cannot agree more the importance of a good one. Our local JD (Denton, TX) where I had bought a JD4100 from took me over the coals on a Ferris ZT, to thank him I drove 25 miles and ordered my 3032 cab, FEL MMM.
My understanding the difference between the 3032 and 3038 is the 32 is normally aspirated and the 38 has a turbocharger, 7 more HP. I chose the 32 as I do more mowing and didn't need to burn the extra fuel.
YMMV.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #27  
GOSH! We had 2 Rs built in 1950 I think. Is John Deere going backwards? :eek: Really,buy an M as the frames are heavy and matching loaders are heavier. My 5075M out weighs the E by 1000 lb, and the attach point for the loader is massive. Will never break it.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #28  
Nobody was testing out Yanmar tracotors???
No dealers?

willy
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #29  
Only my personal preference, but for SCUT to JD2R size class I prefer Kubota and Massey Ferguson.

JD3R size and up, a good dealer would be the deciding factor between a Kubota, Massey or JD.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #30  
Maybe current owners can correct me on this, but here are my reasons for passing over the 1R and 2R Deere's and their previous 2X20 series. For years and even after the model update all I kept reading about on all the forums was complaints of loader arms and fuel tank mounting brackets that bent. overly complicated and unreliable mm mower independent lift systems, and auto connect decks that were hit and miss.
And the "secret" driveline grease fitting no one knew about until they started failing.

I know they still have the mm mower deck lift issues, but has the other stuff been corrected yet?

One good thing about them though is I never hear of frame, engine or transmission problems in them.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #31  
I think the problems you describe are mostly gone. I say mostly because the “hidden” driveline zero you describe isn’t really hidden, it’s just nearly impossible to get to. It’s the front u joint on the drive shaft from the engine to the transmission. It’s been beat to death on the best way to grease it on the JD forums. I can grease that joint on my tractor myself, but it might take me 2 minutes or 10 minutes, and can grease rest of the u joints in 10 minutes.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #32  
There wasn't much of a choice here in Charlottesville, Va when I bought my first tractor, a 4010. It was great until its 9th year and 660 hours when the front Ujoint disintegrated. Dealer got me into a 1025, which was a lemon and didn't have enough ground clearance. The 2025 has been a very good tractor except for a PTO button and PTO relay that had to be replaced. Had that front Ujoint greased at 200 hours by JD. They removed the entire shaft, because that is the only way to get a regular grease gun on the zerks, e.g. bend the joint.

They're eliminated the turning brakes on the 2 series; so, my next tractor may be a Kubota. There are a couple of Kubota dealers that have established a presence in the area now.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #33  
I like the tractors Dodgeman. It was just those stupid little issues and read about them year after year after year.
And it took them a few years before they added the grease location of that joint into the manual.

I WOULD rather have greaseable joints.....if they were accessible.

The one big reason to buy a Deere though is you can always find a dealership, because they are everywhere.
Deere and Kubota have a very strong dealer network.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #34  
One thing to clear up from Ralph’s post. JD 2 series tractors do have turning brakes, the 2025R does not, the 2032r and 2038r do. You absolutely can grease the difficult u joint yourself, you DO NOT have to remove the drive shaft, it’s just not easy. I’ve done it 5 times now on mine.

I had a Kubota BX for 10 years before my JD. Kubota has little issues also, the delicate hydro fan for example. My opinion is JD might have a very slight edge in the engineering and quality side but they are pretty even in my opinion.
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #36  
Test drive the blue LS tractors actually you
need to drive a bunch of tractors so you can
tell which one you like

willy
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #37  
The "E" models are "economy" tractors meant to hit a price point. Try comparing to an "R" model.
That's what I initially thought but it's more complicated then that. I wrote about this in another thread titled, "My Thoughts On Modern Day Tractors".
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #38  
When I made most recent purchase last year I was looking at a 3039r a 3038e l3901 and l3560. I took my wife to both dealers and showed them to her. She went to get on one of the deere machines and lost her balance and pulled the handle out of the fender and broke the plastic fender. Her response was bring anything green home and you can live in the machine shed
 
/ Why buy a Deere CUT? #40  
I've been looking some at the used market and can find, pretty reliably, newish used Deere 3038e and 3032e models. These are priced significantly lower than the new price. Makes them much more competitive with brand new offerings from Kioti which is currently my target for a brand new tractor. I am very hesitant to buy used, but United Ag who sells Deere in my area has a pretty big dealer web and that makes me feel comfortable...

Thanks for all your input. If anyone has experience, comments or opinions on the 3032e or 3038e, I would be interested in reading them. Curious how significant a move from the 3032e to the 3038e would be. I plan mainly to use the tractor for clearing brush with a grapple and shredder. My property is heavily wooded, so I will not be mowing big grass fields. There is some slope, but not too steep as the soil is pretty much sand.
It sounds like we have similar situations. Our property is about an hour or so NE of you. United owns most of the JD dealerships in North Texas, including my nearest in Mount Pleasant. When I went to shop there, I spent 30 minutes or so walking their lot. They had some inventory, but in that time, not one employee bothered to check to see if I had questions...I was even looking at those up to about 75hp.

I am comparing Branson, LS, TYM, Kioti, Kubota, Zetor, Bobcat, CaseIH, NH, MF and JD. ( sorry Willy, no Yanmar around here) In the size you are comparing, I am looking at the 3035D. It is outclassed in most ways by all of the others unless you just want a big lawn mower. JD has the lowest max height of loader (by 10") and least hydraulic flow to implements. Only the Kubota has a loader as poor as the JD in this class. I am looking at gear drive.

I would suggest you check out the Branson dealer at Caddo Mills. The 3515R is only about $20k with loader and beats the JD in everything except PTO HP (0.4 HP difference) and fuel tank size (9.7 vs 7.1). Another I am seriously considering in this class is the LS 235E. There's a dealer in Tyler. Its loader is not quite as capable as the Branson, but it is about $1000 cheaper. Of course, you may find better or worse deals.

I figure if there are a lot of used available, it may speak to people being unhappy with something. Maybe they just want an upgrade...but that also indicates the frustration with a less capable machine. As to pedals and ergonomics, that will have to be handled the old fashioned way...get in the seat and compare. Most of that is individual taste.


Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Last edited:

Marketplace Items

2012 KENWORTH T800 (INOPERABLE) (A63569)
2012 KENWORTH T800...
F-150 4WD (A63118)
F-150 4WD (A63118)
2016 Ford F-150 4wd 4 Door (A63118)
2016 Ford F-150...
2013 WESTERN STAR 4900 SB MID ROOF SLEEPER (A63569)
2013 WESTERN STAR...
48” Titan Skid Steer Root Grapple – SSQA – Excellent Condition
48” Titan Skid...
2018 22ft. Tycorp Vector Belt VB-16H (A60352)
2018 22ft. Tycorp...
 
Top