Why buy a Deere CUT?

   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #31  
I think the problems you describe are mostly gone. I say mostly because the “hidden” driveline zero you describe isn’t really hidden, it’s just nearly impossible to get to. It’s the front u joint on the drive shaft from the engine to the transmission. It’s been beat to death on the best way to grease it on the JD forums. I can grease that joint on my tractor myself, but it might take me 2 minutes or 10 minutes, and can grease rest of the u joints in 10 minutes.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #32  
There wasn't much of a choice here in Charlottesville, Va when I bought my first tractor, a 4010. It was great until its 9th year and 660 hours when the front Ujoint disintegrated. Dealer got me into a 1025, which was a lemon and didn't have enough ground clearance. The 2025 has been a very good tractor except for a PTO button and PTO relay that had to be replaced. Had that front Ujoint greased at 200 hours by JD. They removed the entire shaft, because that is the only way to get a regular grease gun on the zerks, e.g. bend the joint.

They're eliminated the turning brakes on the 2 series; so, my next tractor may be a Kubota. There are a couple of Kubota dealers that have established a presence in the area now.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #33  
I like the tractors Dodgeman. It was just those stupid little issues and read about them year after year after year.
And it took them a few years before they added the grease location of that joint into the manual.

I WOULD rather have greaseable joints.....if they were accessible.

The one big reason to buy a Deere though is you can always find a dealership, because they are everywhere.
Deere and Kubota have a very strong dealer network.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #34  
One thing to clear up from Ralph’s post. JD 2 series tractors do have turning brakes, the 2025R does not, the 2032r and 2038r do. You absolutely can grease the difficult u joint yourself, you DO NOT have to remove the drive shaft, it’s just not easy. I’ve done it 5 times now on mine.

I had a Kubota BX for 10 years before my JD. Kubota has little issues also, the delicate hydro fan for example. My opinion is JD might have a very slight edge in the engineering and quality side but they are pretty even in my opinion.
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #36  
Test drive the blue LS tractors actually you
need to drive a bunch of tractors so you can
tell which one you like

willy
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #37  
The "E" models are "economy" tractors meant to hit a price point. Try comparing to an "R" model.
That's what I initially thought but it's more complicated then that. I wrote about this in another thread titled, "My Thoughts On Modern Day Tractors".
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #38  
When I made most recent purchase last year I was looking at a 3039r a 3038e l3901 and l3560. I took my wife to both dealers and showed them to her. She went to get on one of the deere machines and lost her balance and pulled the handle out of the fender and broke the plastic fender. Her response was bring anything green home and you can live in the machine shed
 
   / Why buy a Deere CUT? #40  
I've been looking some at the used market and can find, pretty reliably, newish used Deere 3038e and 3032e models. These are priced significantly lower than the new price. Makes them much more competitive with brand new offerings from Kioti which is currently my target for a brand new tractor. I am very hesitant to buy used, but United Ag who sells Deere in my area has a pretty big dealer web and that makes me feel comfortable...

Thanks for all your input. If anyone has experience, comments or opinions on the 3032e or 3038e, I would be interested in reading them. Curious how significant a move from the 3032e to the 3038e would be. I plan mainly to use the tractor for clearing brush with a grapple and shredder. My property is heavily wooded, so I will not be mowing big grass fields. There is some slope, but not too steep as the soil is pretty much sand.
It sounds like we have similar situations. Our property is about an hour or so NE of you. United owns most of the JD dealerships in North Texas, including my nearest in Mount Pleasant. When I went to shop there, I spent 30 minutes or so walking their lot. They had some inventory, but in that time, not one employee bothered to check to see if I had questions...I was even looking at those up to about 75hp.

I am comparing Branson, LS, TYM, Kioti, Kubota, Zetor, Bobcat, CaseIH, NH, MF and JD. ( sorry Willy, no Yanmar around here) In the size you are comparing, I am looking at the 3035D. It is outclassed in most ways by all of the others unless you just want a big lawn mower. JD has the lowest max height of loader (by 10") and least hydraulic flow to implements. Only the Kubota has a loader as poor as the JD in this class. I am looking at gear drive.

I would suggest you check out the Branson dealer at Caddo Mills. The 3515R is only about $20k with loader and beats the JD in everything except PTO HP (0.4 HP difference) and fuel tank size (9.7 vs 7.1). Another I am seriously considering in this class is the LS 235E. There's a dealer in Tyler. Its loader is not quite as capable as the Branson, but it is about $1000 cheaper. Of course, you may find better or worse deals.

I figure if there are a lot of used available, it may speak to people being unhappy with something. Maybe they just want an upgrade...but that also indicates the frustration with a less capable machine. As to pedals and ergonomics, that will have to be handled the old fashioned way...get in the seat and compare. Most of that is individual taste.


Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
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