Rpms for backhoe

[thunder86]

I have a bobcat ct4045 and I’m wondering what rpms I should run my backhoe at? I looked through my manual on the backhoe and I’m not seeing anything. I’m assuming it’s between the normal two lines for running a pto implement.
Also I’m not good at running the backhoe yet, terrible actually, and want to run it lower so I don’t jerk as much. Is it ok to run it with the throttle low? Thanks.

 

[mcfarmall]

Yep. No harm, no foul.

 

[Diggin It]

I run low throttle, 1,800-2,000.

 

[loggin]

I have a bobcat ct4045 and I’m wondering what rpms I should run my backhoe at? I looked through my manual on the backhoe and I’m not seeing anything. I’m assuming it’s between the normal two lines for running a pto implement.
Also I’m not good at running the backhoe yet, terrible actually, and want to run it lower so I don’t jerk as much. Is it ok to run it with the throttle low? Thanks.

I would say that typically as long as you are not lugging the engine you are ok. I usually operate between 1400 and 2000 rpm. I always believe it's better to be smooth than fast when operating machinery. You tend to have less mechanical failures and cheaper maintenance.

The only thing I am not sure about is how rpm and load relate to the new emissions systems. Perhaps someone else can pipe in here that has more knowledge about regen cycles and if a certain rpm might reduce the frequency of that having to happen.

Hope this helps!!

 

[DK35vince]

Run it a the RPM the backhoe works best for you.
The speed/control of my backhoe works best for me If I run around 2100 RPM

 

[ning]

AFAIK, the only difference engine RPM makes to the hydraulic system is flow rate; pressure should be pretty consistent regardless*.

So definitely to begin with, lower RPMs to keep flow rate down so you can get used to controlling the machine without it moving too rapidly. It should be able to dig the same at 1500 as 2500 rpm, just at a different speed.

*: I wouldn't be surprised if right at idle the pressure is a little lower than a bit above, but it won't be a huge difference.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

I've been operating my backhoe attachment A LOT for the past year-and-one-half. I run it at idle (1,000 rpm's) to 1400 RPM's. Smooth and easy. I'm aware of no damage to anything related to hydraulics of the engine. I also perceive no difference in hydraulic strength with varying engine speed - everything takes longer, which suits me fine.

 

[the old grind]

Run it at low rpm and practice your moves a few times/sessions w/o digging. After a while you'll get the feel of the sticks and in time become more graceful. I often exercise my Terramite at start-up listening for pivot squeaks that suggest it's overdue for a greasing. Warms up my hydro (and hands) and I can position cyls 'by the book', then shut down to check hydro level.

 

[mikester]

If you have a newer machine with DEF or DPF you want to run your tractor at WOT all the time. If you have an old school machine you can run your machine at the lowest possible throttle that gives you the control and speeds you want.

 

[Frankenkubota]

another coincidence

my buddy was running my bh, digging a hole to bury stumps. he loves to drive the tractor and he's very careful....plus i'm right there keeping an eye on things. yesterday, he was digging and i was burning the pile and he called me over.

he was at about 1500 rpm, simple digging in good clean soil, nothing out of the ordinary and POW.

he said he heard a loud pow and smelled smoke and saw fluid all over the place. i just walked away to look later. i did ask if he was trying to scoot something over with the bh bucket, nope, just digging.

one of the hydraulic lines looks to have failed. it's one of the short ones that control the right to left etc movement of the boom.

i will remove today to confirm but, i'm pretty sure its toast.

i never had to replace a hydraulic line. i can go to the local dealer but....is there a better source?

i will also call my local buddies but....any suggestions? i did see a hydraulic repair place in the neighborhood.

Is there such a thing as standard off the shelf hoses other than from the dealer?

it begins........

 

[ptsg]

another coincidence

my buddy was running my bh, digging a hole to bury stumps. he loves to drive the tractor and he's very careful....plus i'm right there keeping an eye on things. yesterday, he was digging and i was burning the pile and he called me over.

he was at about 1500 rpm, simple digging in good clean soil, nothing out of the ordinary and POW.

he said he heard a loud pow and smelled smoke and saw fluid all over the place. i just walked away to look later. i did ask if he was trying to scoot something over with the bh bucket, nope, just digging.

one of the hydraulic lines looks to have failed. it's one of the short ones that control the right to left etc movement of the boom.

i will remove today to confirm but, i'm pretty sure its toast.

i never had to replace a hydraulic line. i can go to the local dealer but....is there a better source?

i will also call my local buddies but....any suggestions? i did see a hydraulic repair place in the neighborhood.

Is there such a thing as standard off the shelf hoses other than from the dealer?

it begins........

Take the hydraulic hose with you to the hydraulic shop and have them make a new one. Chances are, that it will end up being a 1/3 of the cost of the OEM one and it will just as good, if not better.

Then just put the new line back in and just cycle that swing movement a few times to take the air out.

 

[Frankenkubota]

Take the hydraulic hose with you to the hydraulic shop and have them make a new one. Chances are, that it will end up being a 1/3 of the cost of the OEM one and it will just as good, if not better.

Then just put the new line back in and just cycle that swing movement a few times to take the air out.

thx

that was my first choice.

 

[mred2]

Changes are that the dealer will also make the hose. I work for dealer of heavy equipment. The only hoses that we stock are ones with non stock ends. And that is not many.

 

[3Ts]

Hydraulic lines fail from time to time. Best to check the hoses from time to time and replace them if they look worn. I've had a 1-1/2" hydraulic line off an excavator break - lots of fluid everywhere. Local hydraulic shop does all my hoses from the small 3/8" to the bigger stuff.

 

[Diggin It]

I had the same thing happen. Moved the boom and had oil spraying. Took me a minute to figure our which hose. It had what they call a Banjo fitting on one end and nobody had that part to make a new one. Had to have it spliced until I could get one from the dealer.

 

[VroomVroom]

Just bring hose/parts to hydraulic shop and they’ll make one similar in five minutes.

 

[the old grind]

If you have a newer machine with DEF or DPF you want to run your tractor at WOT all the time. If you have an old school machine you can run your machine at the lowest possible throttle that gives you the control and speeds you want.

And here I thought being 'up to temp' (not just on gauge) is as good as running at WFO to minimize regens. I have 'old school machines' (3 w/EGR & DOC). They need to run 'hot' too, but do so well below PTO or max rpm. IMO partially covering a radiator in Winter is easy enough and perhaps more economical. Sure don't need WOT power for loader work, grappling, grubbing, snow moving, pallet forks ...

btw, I consider 1200 rpm as minimum idle for brief periods such as cool down. Like many I do most work in the 1600-2000 range and work my hp vs having more than I'll use and 'loafing' the engone. Give me another 20 yrs with diesels and I'll figure it out.

 

[thunder86]

If you have a newer machine with DEF or DPF you want to run your tractor at WOT all the time. If you have an old school machine you can run your machine at the lowest possible throttle that gives you the control and speeds you want.

What is WOT? It is new.

 

[loggin]

What is WOT? It is new.

WOT : Wide Open Throttle.

 

[rScotty]

I've been operating my backhoe attachment A LOT for the past year-and-one-half. I run it at idle (1,000 rpm's) to 1400 RPM's. Smooth and easy. I'm aware of no damage to anything related to hydraulics of the engine. I also perceive no difference in hydraulic strength with varying engine speed - everything takes longer, which suits me fine.

I run both my backhoes in that same range - basically 1000 which is just off idle.... to about 1500/1600 RPM. I've been doing that with hoes for over 50 years. Any higher RPM and we maybe get a slight bit more work done, but it gets done in herky/jerky fashion, slams things around, and is generally less fun with more wear.

Hoes are all about hydraulic flow, so if the hydraulic pump is half way good there shouldn't be all that much difference in backhoe power regardless of the RPM. That also means that as long as you are up above absolute idle RPM you shouldn't be able to lug the engine much or at all with the hoe anyway.

IMHO, it just isn't necessary or desireable to be cranking up to full PTO RPM to run a hoe. Save that for mowing.
Take the time to get good & smooth instead.

Hints: Nothing wears out a backhoe like slamming it around. Especially slamming it around with the swing stroke.
And do NOT side sweep to move heavy loads. Side sweeping is for light loads & for smoothing.

On the other hand, it is perfectly reasonable to use down pressure with a frame-mounted hoe to lift the back of the tractor for repositioning, just as long as you don't have wheel weights or tire fluid. If you do, that's your call.....
While learning, go slowly and use slight movements when using down pressure combined with side sweep for repositioning or crossing a ditch.