Least Tippy Machine

[60047]

I have a Kubota L4330 with 6-inch wheel spacers and ag tires. I thought for sure this arrangement would provide the level of stability I was looking for, but it doesn't. I live on 14 acres of rolling/bumpy land that was previously a tree farm. There are holes all over the place and the land is generally uneven.

I plant a few acres, but I'm mostly interested in managing the land, clearing, and freeing up space for new uses. I felt much more stable in a Bobcat T650 that I had rented before buying the Kubota.

What types of machines are very stable on uneven ground, can use standard attachments, and are easy to work on/maintain? My budget is about $30,000.

 

[jeff9366]

What types of machines are very stable on uneven ground, use standard attachments, and are easy to work on/maintain? My budget is about $30,000.

Ventrac and Steiner.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ventrac+steiner

 

[sea2summit]

How big are these holes? Sounds like you might need to doze it and start over if you're unsafe driving a tractor that size because of holes.

 

[60047]

At least two feet across, most are over three feet.
Whatever replaces it should definitely have a loader.

 

[Rebeldad1]

you might look at orchard tractors. they are closer to the ground and may be a little wider

 

[Liquidsilver]

I see the big highway department tractors pulling their 15-foot bat wing cutters on slopes that make me dizzy.
They have very wide front axles, big weights on the front and the rear tires are also set very wide. I would think you could look into similar equipment for other tractor models.

If I can add a question to this topic.. since I have a dam that is hard to mow on the face near the water, straight up and down, forward and reversing until the clutch is burning hot... I'm pretty sure I could mow it sideways without risk of tipover... but here's the question:

Has anyone tried having a friend with a heavy truck drive along the level top of the dam with a chain to the ROPS to be sure it wouldn't try to tip over? Just wondering about trying it. It would save me at least an hour and lots of wear and tear.

 

[jeff9366]

I have a Kubota L4330 with 6-inch wheel spacers and ag tires. I thought this arrangement would provide the level of stability I was looking for, but it doesn't.

I live on 14 acres of rolling/bumpy land that was previously a tree farm. There are holes all over the place and the land is generally uneven.

Changing from R1/ag tires to R4/industrial tires will lower tractor center-of-gravity. New rims and tires required.

Changing from standard diameter R4/industrial tires to one increment smaller diameter R4/industrial tires/rims will lower your center-of-gravity further at some decrease in traction and top speed. New rims and tires required.

Changing from R4/industrial tires to Turf Tires will lower your center-of-gravity at some reduction in tire toughness and top speed. New rims and tires required.

Filling rear tires 50% with liquid will lower tractor center-of-gravity for all above tires.

Removing the FEL will lower the tractor center-of-gravity. You can substitute a Three Point Hitch - Dirt Scoop or a Three Point Hitch - Box Blade for moving dirt.

 

[sea2summit]

At least two feet across, most are over three feet.
Whatever replaces it should definitely have a loader.

You would need a very significant machine to handle holes that size. I'd start filling them in or doze them rather than change a machine trying to find something more stable, heck just driving over it without undue wear/damage to the machine would take huge wheels even if the machine was stable.

 

[sea2summit]

I have a Kubota L4330 with 6-inch wheel spacers and ag tires. I thought for sure this arrangement would provide the level of stability I was looking for, but it doesn't.

I live on 14 acres of rolling/bumpy land that was previously a tree farm. There are holes all over the place and the land is generally uneven.

Changing from R1/ag tires to R4/industrial tires will lower tractor center-of-gravity.

Changing from standard diameter R4/industrial tires to one increment smaller diameter R4/industrial tires will lower your center-of-gravity further at some loss in traction and top speed.

Changing from R4/industrial tires to Turf Tires will lower your center-of-gravity at some reduction in tire toughness and top speed.

Filling rear tires 50% with liquid will lower tractor center-of-gravity for all above tires.

Removing the FEL will lower the tractor center-of-gravity.

Sounds to me like he's probably getting one wheel of the ground and needs larger tires rather than smaller but I understand where you're going with the stability aspect.

 

[k0ua]

And the next question: is it the operator or is it the tractor? In other words would a different operator be just fine and dandy operating your tractor on your property. "tippyness" is often a factor more of the operator than the machine. Just how close did you come to tipping over? Or have you tipped over. I can go on hills that are about 20 degrees worse than my wife. She has a very low "tippyness" threshold.

My threshold is much lower than the fellows that drive the State tractors and mow the right of ways in the summer. Sure there tractors are set up a little better, BUT they have to leave room for those big steel ones on the platform under their seat. If you have wheel spacers and the wheels set out wide and loaded tires, even with AG tires, I bet your tractor is in NO danger of tipping over. If you change to R4's of course it will be a little more stabile, AND will slip down hills before it tips over. These are just my thoughts and you are there and I ain't.

 

[jeff9366]

you might look at orchard tractors. they are closer to the ground and may be a little wider

My career was 37 years in the California wine industry.

Orchard and Vineyard tractors are low and narrow. Have very high volume hydraulic systems for operating high volume sprayers. Some available on tracks.

In California all spray rigs must have cabs with positive air pressure inside to keep chemicals outside the cab.

Up until 2005, when I retired, none were designed for front end loaders.

These are low volume, specialized machines, unfortunately priced very high.

 

[jeff9366]

I'd start filling them in or doze them rather than change a machine trying to find something more stable.

For fourteen acres having a bulldozer fill the holes may be the cheapest option.

Depending..................

 

[60047]

I think you all may have a good point with just getting the holes filled/pushed over with a dozer. I was planning on filling them with the tractor, but I don't feel comfortable running across all of the terrain with the tractor.

To answer the question: I'm sure it's operator-error. The tractor could probably be pushed much harder, but just because it can be done doesn't mean I have any interest in doing so.

It was just so odd in the T650; everything felt completely normal and I could roll around the property without caring what was in front of me. But when I get in the tractor, I'm in super slow-mo and watching every inch of the ground ahead. And then turn around anyway.

 

[k0ua]

I think you all may have a good point with just getting the holes filled/pushed over with a dozer. I was planning on filling them with the tractor, but I don't feel comfortable running across all of the terrain with the tractor.

To answer the question: I'm sure it's operator-error. The tractor could probably be pushed much harder, but just because it can be done doesn't mean I have any interest in doing so.

It was just so odd in the T650; everything felt completely normal and I could roll around the property without caring what was in front of me. But when I get in the tractor, I'm in super slow-mo and watching every inch of the ground ahead. And then turn around anyway.

And the reason for that is in the T650 you are "enclosed" you have "walls" around you and you feel safe. On the tractor you sit higher and the fenders stop well below your line of sight. You feel vulnerable and unsafe.

How does one raise their "tippyness" threshold? Over time you become less fearful. And for some people even to the point they become reckless. But you are not there yet. Not by a long shot. Have an experienced operator come in and operate your machine over every part of your terrain. It would likely make you feel a bit better if he says "nothing scary around here". That is all I can suggest. Don't trade your machine off. Trade off your fear.

 

[ericm979]

R4 tires are also wider than R1s. And they have stiff sidewalls and square shoulder tread, both of which will help reduce the likelyhood of a rollover. Their traction in mud or loose soil is not as good as R1s though.

My dealer put on slightly smaller diameter tires from a different model Branson on my machine. That lowers the CG some at the cost of lower ground clearance. It is still high enough and I'd be paying attention to what I drive over anyhow. Filled rear tires will also help lower the CG.

If you fill the holes yourself you may need to fill in the closest ones, then work outwards on the new less uneven ground.

 

[MossRoad]

you might look at orchard tractors. they are closer to the ground and may be a little wider

I thought orchard tractors were narrower so they'd fit between the rows.

 

[MossRoad]

I see the big highway department tractors pulling their 15-foot bat wing cutters on slopes that make me dizzy.
They have very wide front axles, big weights on the front and the rear tires are also set very wide. I would think you could look into similar equipment for other tractor models.

If I can add a question to this topic.. since I have a dam that is hard to mow on the face near the water, straight up and down, forward and reversing until the clutch is burning hot... I'm pretty sure I could mow it sideways without risk of tipover... but here's the question:

Has anyone tried having a friend with a heavy truck drive along the level top of the dam with a chain to the ROPS to be sure it wouldn't try to tip over? Just wondering about trying it. It would save me at least an hour and lots of wear and tear.

Funny you mention that. Driving through western MO Tuesday, we saw several mowing crews. There was a large JD tractor with a large batwing mower that appeared to have tried to take the sideslope under an overpass. He apparently slipped sideways downhill and had become wedged against the bridge posts. He was standing there in front of it holding a chain.

Another guy in a similar tractor with similar mower was trying to climb the hill from the opposite side to, I guess, try and pull him up the hill off the pilings. However, that machine was sliding backwards down the hill.

My guess is they had to end up calling for assistance.

Crazy steep slopes. I wouldn't have worried to much about tipping, but sliding is another story.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Op,

Is it just the dropping of a wheel into a hole you're concerned about, or are your slopes and hills steep?

There are apps you can get for your smart phone that will allow you to measure slopes and angles in the field. The one I use is called MultiClinometer (android). You can measure in percent of grade, or degree of slope.

Here is a slope chart for reference:

There are several things you can do to your tractor to make it less "tippy". But we should start with a reference of how much slope you're dealing with. Can you measure a couple of your "bad" spots?

 

[WranglerX]

You problem is not the tractor, but the operator and failure to fill in holes ....

 

[Gee Ray]

What is your objective? If you are wanting to fill the holes are you hauling in dirt? Is there dirt stockpiled on the land? Are you trying to use a box blade to fill in the holes? Details will get you better answers.