riptides
Super Star Member
That's a stunningly beautiful pic.
That's a stunningly beautiful pic.
I would guess at least 75% of HVAC contractors for retrofit applications do not do a full manual J load (at best, perhaps a block load)./QUOTE]
Ours actually did a manual J. Came out to 7 tons. Upgraded to 8 he said for airflow. After the fact he did admit he had not done many homes with spray foam. Also the cathedral ceiling (26 ft) and all the windows throughout the home threw him off as well. He seemed shocked we were only running stage 1 and no backup heat in zero temps the first winter. In reality we probably needed 5 tons without heat strips or 3.5 to 4 tons with heat strips on sub zero temps.
Apparently he didn't do his manual J correctly when he put in an 8 ton system and it appears a 5 ton would of worked. Oversizing by 3 tons shouldn't be your issue. Hopefully he made it right.
Nice room! Whenever I'm dealing with something new that I'm not certain of, I'd be making phone calls to ensure my butt is covered.
Have a homeowner right now filing a complaint on another contractor. 2 ton system went into a 650 sqaure foot house because the homeowner wanted it cooler in the summer time so the guy thought more AC was the answer.
You have a 4,500 sq ft house where it appears that 5 ton will suffice. We bought our house used, built in 1988. 3,500 square feet, lots of windows on the first floor, we need every bit of 7 tons between 3 systems. Before we bought the house I went over the ductwork. It was perfect.
This is why load calculations are so important. Garbarge in, garbage out per the data as most guys just go by 600 sq ft per ton and add or deduct 1/2 ton between "good" and "bad" on the insulation and if they don't come up close to the "general rule" they freak out and try to change the data to what makes sense to them![]()
Apparently he didn't do his manual J correctly when he put in an 8 ton system and it appears a 5 ton would of worked. Oversizing by 3 tons shouldn't be your issue. Hopefully he made it right.
Not really but in the long run it worked out. Really big credits from the electric coop per ton for geo offset most of the extra tonnage expense. Biggest headache was figuring out how to make it work to prevent short cycling and high indoor humidity while he drug his feet about downsizing the units. I figured out how to trick the units zone percentages so it never called for 2nd stage. That and some slight zone bleeds took care of the short cycles. In the end I have a pretty efficient system. Running stage one only my loop is oversized a bit now so loop temps don't draw down much in the winter or up in the summer giving more delta t. Additionally in the winter we don't have a need for backup electric heat. I will give him credit on the duct work. Some of the nicest hvac duct I've seen done in residential.
A tight well insulated house with with geothermal with all the ductwork in condition areas is easy to keep running if a large house use two units, keep duct pressure low with adjustable registers and balance the house. A electronic air cleaner on return removes all odors and a heat exchange for fresh air and keep the house under positive pressure. In some areas a humidifier might be needed. If you like hot steamy showers vent it outside
There is a builder I follow on Youtube--Matt Risinger.
He builds high end custom homes here in the Central Texas. He is very focused on modern building science and energy efficiency. He is doing a series on the remodel of his personal home and he is using a mini split type system for the home:
Mitsubishi HVAC At My House - Full System Tour - YouTube
The video is a little long, but he walks through his thinking along with providing the load and energy analysis.
There is a builder I follow on Youtube--Matt Risinger.
He builds high end custom homes here in the Central Texas. He is very focused on modern building science and energy efficiency. He is doing a series on the remodel of his personal home and he is using a mini split type system for the home:
Mitsubishi HVAC At My House - Full System Tour - YouTube
The video is a little long, but he walks through his thinking along with providing the load and energy analysis.
I watched the video.
If you walk into a Harley store and ask what kind of bikes they have for sale, and you walk into a bicycle shop and ask them what kind of bikes you have for sale, are you going to get the same product? Best analogy I can put it is both a motorcycle and bicycle is known as a "bike", but the two are no where close to each other in that they both have two wheels.
What I don't like about the video is 4 things...
1 - You call a residential HVAC contractor and ask them for a VRF system, good chance they won't know what you're talking about. 25 years ago, residential mini splits where known as the "new fangled inverter compressor system". I honestly don't know of one "VRF" system that was installed by a residential contractor. Last job I did in VRF was about $157,000 in equipment alone.
2 - You CAN zone a two story house with one unitary split product ducted HVAC system. Do it all the time in NC, it's call zoning.
3 - For the equipment cost Mr. Risinger can put in his home on the Mitsubishi, I have little doubt he could do a geothermal system for his house with ductwork (which we had those kind of attics in sub 3,000 sq foot house in NC LOL).
4 - For the ducted unit in his attic, he could of went with a unitary split product inverter system with a higher efficency, but that would defeat the purpose of Mitsubishi creating the video.
Ductless / ducted mini split = inverter compressor with multiple indoor head selections, metering device generally at the outdoor unit, 208/230 single phase (can be used in commercial applciations as well, particularly for low ambient conditions)
VRF = inverter compressor, multiple indoor head selections, metering device generally at the indoor unit, 208/230 3 phase (although some single phase systems starting off at 3 ton but heat pump only where the system can only do heating or cooling, not both at the same time). For most in the HVAC industry, VRF is 3 phase equipment that is capable of heat recovery, which means multiple indoor units can heat and cool at the same time).
It appears Mr. Rissenger is using a city multi on one outdoor unit, which is VRF, but single phase. In 25 years, I've never sold a Mitsubishi S series for a residential application like Mr. Rissenger is using because you'll never get your ROI on that unit in a residential application (then again, if the unit is free, no complaints I'm sure).
Reality is with large organizations, it seems inherent that the engineering department always does a palm in the face when marketing puts out a video.
All that said, what I am excited about in the HVAC industry is when a manufacturer can produce a VRF system (metering device at the indoor unit) in a heat recovery system in a single phase unit (where multiple indoor units can heat and cool at the same time). To my knowledge, only one manufacturer has one out as I just described, and it's not Mitsubishi. But the reality is for the money, if it were my house or my parents house and I was going to spend that kind of money for efficency, it would be geothermal. 2nd best option would be inverter unitary split product (which actually why Mitsubsihi got into bed with Train and these kind of business relationships are happening HVAC industry wide).
Lucky to the video is from Texas. In my part of NC, in general, the heat load can easily exceed the cooling load, which increases the money on the equipment for heating by itself.
Jeez... I understood everything you said, I think... :thumbsup:
Actually mini splits can exceed the efficiency of a closed loop geothermal system, and get close to an open loop. In various buildings I have an open loop geothermal, air to air heat pump with propane furnace, and mini splits. If I were to build a new house, I知 nearly certain that I would use multiple mini splits.
I follow him as well... pretty sharp guy who is always looking for what's new. He reminds me of Mike Holmes sort of, in the sense you probably can't afford to do this in your house, but this is what should be done. I find it to be a good measuring stick...
If your you have a lazy duct installer who takes shortcuts your ducts will be a big waste of energy.
If you have a well designed, well insulated and air tight house I'd recommend an HRV/ERV which requires some sort of ducting.
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