RTV - X1100C

[swampy6]

There is a cable that causes that lobe-shaped "cam" in your picture to pivot and push that plunger in when the brake pedal is pressed. You can adjust the cable so that you get the desired amount of motion of the plunger. I had to adjust mine -- I suspect the cable had stretched so it was no longer pushing in the plunger very far. Once adjusted it made a big difference. In the owner's manual they give some dimensions to check the plunger range -- the numbers were out of whack in my owners manual from the fall of 2015 (very obvious typo) and I wonder if they have corrected it by now. I had to work it out by trial and error.

Thanks, I'll take a look in the book today.

 

[lloyd123]

Looked at both the OM and the WSM for the RTV-X1100C about checking VHT release pressure.

The WSM seems to check if the "spool" length is at least 17.5 mm while the OM checks to see if the "spool" length is not over 21.5 mm.

Maybe I'm reading this all wrong.

Won't be checking today as it's single digits out there.

 

[s219]

Looked at both the OM and the WSM for the RTV-X1100C about checking VHT release pressure.

The WSM seems to check if the "spool" length is at least 17.5 mm while the OM checks to see if the "spool" length is not over 21.5 mm.

Maybe I'm reading this all wrong.

Won't be checking today as it's single digits out there.

Yeah, I would ignore the owner's manual as that clearly looks like a bad translation and they only seem to be giving the spec to diagnose a problem. The WSM has the proper adjustment procedure.

 

[wawajake]

I am trying to improve my shift response too on my 2016 x1100c , I see my rod is sticking out of control valve 21.4 mm when cold and not pressing brake. I am tempted to tighten cable so that lobe pushes in on rod a few more millimeters even without pressing brake , so that when brake is pressed it will push rod in further to release hydraulic pressure when shifting. I do not have a WSM so any suggestions from those that have a WSM much appreciated.

 

[s219]

I am trying to improve my shift response too on my 2016 x1100c , I see my rod is sticking out of control valve 21.4 mm when cold and not pressing brake. I am tempted to tighten cable so that lobe pushes in on rod a few more millimeters even without pressing brake , so that when brake is pressed it will push rod in further to release hydraulic pressure when shifting. I do not have a WSM so any suggestions from those that have a WSM much appreciated.

Well you definitely don't want any pressure on that plunger rod until you mash on the brake, since it will bleed pressure off and that would be bad while you're under power. There should be a very slight gap between the cam lobe and the plunger under normal conditions, then you need to get the rod length set to ~ 17.5mm when the brake pedal is mashed.

The left image up in post 82 is from the WSM so refer to that.

 

[wawajake]

Thanks s219....The operator manual is useless in explaining what to aim towards...instead it tells you what not to have. .....that 17.5 mm when brake applied ....and a slight gap between lobe and rod when no brake applied is what I will aim towards. There seems to be a bit of slack in cable that I can reduce. Thks

 

[lloyd123]

Well you definitely don't want any pressure on that plunger rod until you mash on the brake, since it will bleed pressure off and that would be bad while you're under power. There should be a very slight gap between the cam lobe and the plunger under normal conditions, then you need to get the rod length set to ~ 17.5mm when the brake pedal is mashed.

The left image up in post 82 is from the WSM so refer to that.

I checked today and with the foot off the brake the length looked to be over 21.5 mm so I tightened up the cable to 21.5 mm - or as close as what appeared to be that as not that easy to get my hands with a digital caliper under there - and after adjustment with the brake pedal pushed the rod length was 17.5 mm - or pretty close for reason already mentioned.

I assume the cable will stretch with time so will need adjustment in the future.

Seems to shift better but still on occasion - not as often - it will seem to stick in a gear and will require a small blip of the accelerator to move the gear a small fraction to free up to shift.

 

[wawajake]

That is the same thing I did yesterday lloyd123, although I had some calipers. It seemed to slightly improve shifting, but maybe that's in my hopeful mind. At least I know it is adjusted to specs and probably will continue to require the few times where I feather the gas pedal while gently find sweet spot to click it into gear, sadly that is a slow process when in middle of plowing or on a rocky hill. It is the only downside to this rig that I love otherwise. I have learned to NEVER turn off ignition without putting in neutral, because getting it out of gear to start it is a bear ! ( shake and push rig to loosen )

 

[lloyd123]

Cooling system question from a new RTV-X1100C owner - me.

My old 2004 RTV-900W had a very simple cooling system - easy to understand and I changed the coolant every two years.

The RTV-X1100C has a much more complicated system - probably due to a larger engine and AC.

Is there just the one system that has two radiators - that's my impression. Draining the whole system done is from a single location and refilling the whole system all done at the radiator with the overflow container under the front hood. No reason to ever remove the cap on the side radiator behind the battery?

 

[coobie]

After 17 years with a RTV900W I traded it in today for a RTV-X1100C. The RTV900W only had 500 hours but has been acting up lately with four wheel drive engagement and the locking differential. The RTV900 had the hard cab option plus a 72" Curtis plow with the angle kit. The new RTV-1100C will have the V5295A K-Connect Hydraulic V-Plow. Gave me $8,000 trade so difference is about $21,500 plus tax. Should be good for another 17 years which will make me almost 90 so probably my widow will be selling this at some point or using it herself.

I have a 2006 RTV 900 with Curtis cab/curtis plow has 970 hours been pretty much flawless.Thinking about upgrading to RTV X11000c.How is your new unit verses your RTV 900?How the 2 speed tranny verses the 3 speed tranny in the RTV 900?Thanks,Frank.

 

[lloyd123]

I have a 2006 RTV 900 with Curtis cab/curtis plow has 970 hours been pretty much flawless.Thinking about upgrading to RTV X11000c.How is your new unit verses your RTV 900?How the 2 speed tranny verses the 3 speed tranny in the RTV 900?Thanks,Frank.

I find the RTV-X1100C much more capable - more power even with the two speeds - more comfortable - better heater that can get too hot - smoother ride with IRS

Last week we had 15" of snow and had no problem pushing it around

 

[MCHam]

I will be taking delivery of a x1100c with PTO K-connect and snowblower soon (hopefully this week). Looking forward to finishing off the snow season with a heated cab and more powerful overall system.

I really think I’ll want to remove the whole k connect and power module system in summer for extra ground clearance & not worrying about damaging the power module when doing other chores. Hoping there will be straightforward instructions. The brochure says the whole system can be removed in less than an hour. Fingers crossed

 

[mmancuso13]

While you can remove it, I think you will be surprised by the available clearance and can leave it attached...

 

[Paystar]

While you can remove it, I think you will be surprised by the available clearance and can leave it attached...

Can you still use a front winch or the front receiver hitch with the K-Connect on in the summer? Or does it block access to those?

 

[swampy6]

With the next two storms capable of dumping a total of two feet of snow on us, we decided to put in what was left of our February firewood. That was the last of the beech,sugar and red maple.

 

[swampy6]

I will be taking delivery of a x1100c with PTO K-connect and snowblower soon (hopefully this week). Looking forward to finishing off the snow season with a heated cab and more powerful overall system.

I really think I’ll want to remove the whole k connect and power module system in summer for extra ground clearance & not worrying about damaging the power module when doing other chores. Hoping there will be straightforward instructions. The brochure says the whole system can be removed in less than an hour. Fingers crossed

You'll love the heater.

 

[lloyd123]

Can you still use a front winch or the front receiver hitch with the K-Connect on in the summer? Or does it block access to those?

I don't know for sure but if you do "Build Your Kubota" on their website it allows you to configure with the K-Connect and a winch.

Of course not to use both at the same time but if there was something about the K-Connect, even after removal, that would interfere with the winch then I would think it wouldn't allow to order both.

I have the K-Connect and the 78" V-Plow but also bought the V5278 Front Guard Adapter Kit so I can reinstall the Deluxe Front Guard after removing the K-Connect in the summer. The adapter allows connection/clearance with the parts still remaining after removal. Looking at the directions for the K-Connect it doesn't seem too difficult to remove.

 

[swampy6]

I cleaned up the 2 to 3 inches of snow on the driveway and plowed a bunch of trails in the woods. The next system coming in will only drop 1-3 inches of snow on our area unless the forecast changes.

 

[MCHam]

Arrived! Photo right after delivery and walkthrough. I practiced operating for about 30 minutes: initial impressions: snowblower is very powerful. Difficult to shift: after reading the manual, I realized I should have tapped the throttle when shifting was difficult- will use this technique the next time I operate it. Cab heat is great.

Looking forward to snow on Sunday!

 

[swampy6]

Arrived! Photo right after delivery and walkthrough. I practiced operating for about 30 minutes: initial impressions: snowblower is very powerful. Difficult to shift: after reading the manual, I realized I should have tapped the throttle when shifting was difficult- will use this technique the next time I operate it. Cab heat is great.

Looking forward to snow on Sunday!View attachment 687003

We have a Boss V-Plow on ours but I'm finding out that certain areas on the driveway certain things work better on getting it to shift. There are times it shifts great and then there are times that I'll need to drop or raise the plow some for it to shift. There are times it comes out of reverse but only in to neutral and that is when a tap on the gas works for me so I can shift it to high or low.

I do think ours shifts better since we bought it in the fall but it should still shift better. Find out what works for you, nice looking setup.