Green!
Yanmar 186D broken shaft
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Green!
California
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Whew, glad I asked.
See attached. and especially sections 15 to about 20.
Wish there was something better. It's all I have on this hard to get info machine. :2cents:
Green??? I didn't know there ever was a green YM186. That 'Old" manual shows only red hood and fenders.
Mid 70's YM1500 came in Green (Early) or Red(late) versions and there are differences, stamped vs cast bell housing for example.
OP, is that really a YM186D with original factory green hood and fenders? Maybe its a rare collectible!
rScotty
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There's what looks to be part of a YM186/D shop manual for your tractor in the preferred red plastic cover version for sale right now on ebay. But I doubt it is a complete copy. I say incomplete because it just isn't thick enough. I have several of those in my library and the entire manual is a good 3" or 4" thick. The one on ebay looks to be only an inch or less. So be careful. These are not bound, they are loose-leaf binders so that they can be updated.
Yanmar USA was a real good company. Everything top notch....that's probably why JD bought them out.
YM186, YM186D YANMAR Shop Service Manual | eBay
Like all these OEM US manuals, this one should have extensive pages (in section 40 and 240) on trouble-shooting the electrics. Plus a dozen schematics showing electrical flow in all of the various voltage regulator/alternator configurations as it regulates the charging voltage.
The condition doesn't look all that good. The price is what I have paid over the last few decades for these red plastic OEM Yanmar shop manuals - though in far better condition, thick and complete. In fact, I think they cost pretty close to $100 back when you could buy a YM186D new at the dealers.
No, I've never seen a green 186. In fact, I've never seen a powershift green Yanmar. Not sure they were made that way. I have seen photos of JD and Yanmars being built on the same assembly line.
rScotty
Yanmar USA was a real good company. Everything top notch....that's probably why JD bought them out.
YM186, YM186D YANMAR Shop Service Manual | eBay
Like all these OEM US manuals, this one should have extensive pages (in section 40 and 240) on trouble-shooting the electrics. Plus a dozen schematics showing electrical flow in all of the various voltage regulator/alternator configurations as it regulates the charging voltage.
The condition doesn't look all that good. The price is what I have paid over the last few decades for these red plastic OEM Yanmar shop manuals - though in far better condition, thick and complete. In fact, I think they cost pretty close to $100 back when you could buy a YM186D new at the dealers.
No, I've never seen a green 186. In fact, I've never seen a powershift green Yanmar. Not sure they were made that way. I have seen photos of JD and Yanmars being built on the same assembly line.
rScotty
rScotty
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Yes, that's the famous lime green of the early Yanmars. As far as I know all the Ym155s were green. I lot of folks don't know that the YM155 became the YM165 when the models changed to Red.
What I was saying is that Yanmar made their early line of green Hi/Low range sliding gear tractors from the YM135 right up to the YM330s. But none of those was a powershift, and as far as I know, ALL of the YM186 were powershifts - 3 fwd+1 Rev. with a sliding gear range selector.
rScotty
rScotty
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When that photo originally came out it was in a Yanmar company in-house journal. It was a big deal back then, and made for quite a lot of chatter at the time. JD especially didn't like the publicity - it was seen as arrogance - and may even have been part of what led to the demise of the US Yanmar dealer franchises. Those were simpler times, and the fact that JD was selling Japanese built tractors re-badged as John Deeres was not popular with tradtional JD supporters. In fact, there were some who flatly denied it.....probably still are.
So that simple picture had a big impact.
rScotty
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I recently bought on Ebay a CD/download that is a truncated version of that excellent YM186D Service Manual. The CD turned out to be 'YM186 Tractor Workshop Overhaul Manual.pdf' and it seems to be the same as the engine and driveline portions of the Service Manual but missing the hydraulics or electric chapters. Worth the $10 if you don't need those topics. It's 308 pdf pages.The index in the left margin is bogus, it covers the Powershift internals, then up to page 45 for the engine (piston rings), ends there. But the subsequent manual pages seem to be all there despite the truncated index.
I have the Hoye reprint of the real Service manual. For the limited topics that it covers, the pages in this CD appear to be identical.
Did Yanmar ever issue separate repair manuals for 1) Engine/driveline, 2) Hydraulics, 3) Electric, for YM186? This Ebay CD seems to be an authentic copy of the first, then with a poorly researched index. Now today I see another vendor offers the same CD. Caveat Emptor.
rScotty
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Not separate ones that I know of. But they did produce some general booklets on electronicals and hydraulics. Similar to what JD was publishing as their FOS - Fundamentals Of Service - series. But the Yanmar was more techincal.
And along about the same time they did produce an early soft bound version of a shop manual for the YM186 - if I remember right, it had a sort of greenish gold two-tone cover. I'll look tomorrow to see if I have one. It was not nearly so complete as the later red plastic binder that they settled on using with the loose leaf format. Some of those have really excellent artwork in the exploded diagrams. Up until Yanmar (and JD) The older type shop manuals were kind of afterthoughts. Most were hard to make out and featured rather poor quality photos instead of hand drawings.
I've often thought that one of the things that makes parts manuals so useful to the mechanic is the hand drawings.
rScotty
The tractor is repainted and I have no idea which parts are original or maybe put together form other tractors.
On the inside of the dashboard there's still the lime green color.
Here are some pic's:
Just enough rebuild for a test drive earlier:
This one is last summer:
I do have the parts manual which is available on internet.
In the meantime also got a service manual, but it is incomplete.
Doesn't cover the electrical parts and some other sections.
On the inside of the dashboard there's still the lime green color.
Here are some pic's:
Just enough rebuild for a test drive earlier:
This one is last summer:
I do have the parts manual which is available on internet.
In the meantime also got a service manual, but it is incomplete.
Doesn't cover the electrical parts and some other sections.
Look what I found on youtub:
1976??
1976 Yanmar YM186 D .9 Litre 3-Cyl diesel 4WD Tractor (18 HP) - YouTube
1976??
1976 Yanmar YM186 D .9 Litre 3-Cyl diesel 4WD Tractor (18 HP) - YouTube
I found the schematics for a 220 in the internet, I guess this is the most close to the wiring on the tractor.
Is this correct? :
The temp sensor is NO (normally open) and the lamp gets tested during cranking as a result of the relay which is activated as it is connected to the switch which also activates the starter solenoid.
The oil press sensor is NC (normally closed) while the key is in the ON position the lamp is tested/on because there is no oil pressure. As soon as the engine cranks or runs there is oil pressure which opens the switch (in the sensor) and turns the lamp off.
Is this correct? :
The temp sensor is NO (normally open) and the lamp gets tested during cranking as a result of the relay which is activated as it is connected to the switch which also activates the starter solenoid.
The oil press sensor is NC (normally closed) while the key is in the ON position the lamp is tested/on because there is no oil pressure. As soon as the engine cranks or runs there is oil pressure which opens the switch (in the sensor) and turns the lamp off.
The schematic I attached earlier confirms that.
Not unusual for me, I erred earlier when I said the temp light only comes on when overheated. There are models that operate that way but you are right, the lamp check on the 186 does allow that light to come on insuring it works correctly.
Today did some testing on the wirings, finding out which wire is connected to what, most is ok.
The oil pressure wire wasn't connected to the sensor, connected it, works fine now!
Took the wire off from the Water temp sensor and tested it to ground, lamp works!
Battery lamp is on constantly on.
Disconnected the alternator (connector has 2 wires)
VAC Measurement in the 2 wires says: ....nothing
While the engine is running of course, @different speeds.
So I took it home for further inspection.
The alternator has AC or DC on the output?
The oil pressure wire wasn't connected to the sensor, connected it, works fine now!
Took the wire off from the Water temp sensor and tested it to ground, lamp works!
Battery lamp is on constantly on.
Disconnected the alternator (connector has 2 wires)
VAC Measurement in the 2 wires says: ....nothing
While the engine is running of course, @different speeds.
So I took it home for further inspection.
The alternator has AC or DC on the output?
California
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YM186 should have the later 'pancake' alternator with the diodes over in the regulator. That regulator has a short cable with six blade connector.
I think for the earlier version alternator its internal diodes are visible on the back side.
rScotty
Super Member
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 9,778
- Location
- Rural mountains - Colorado
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Today did some testing on the wirings, finding out which wire is connected to what, most is ok.
The oil pressure wire wasn't connected to the sensor, connected it, works fine now!
Took the wire off from the Water temp sensor and tested it to ground, lamp works!
Battery lamp is on constantly on.
Disconnected the alternator (connector has 2 wires)
VAC Measurement in the 2 wires says: ....nothing
While the engine is running of course, @different speeds.
So I took it home for further inspection.
The alternator has AC or DC on the output?
AC or DC on those two wires depends on if the 4 rectifier plate is internal to the alternator (old style) or external. THe first will give you DC from the alternator. The second will read AC (18 volts is common at full RPM) between alternator and rectifier and then DC after that. Check back a few months in messages here. The subject came up them as well. I remember writing quite a bit on the various alternator and regulator combinations Yanmar used in that era. And how to test and fix each of them. Winston wrote a bunch, too.
rScotty
California
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Get out your HF multimeter and check the resistance between the two output wires. It should be near zero. If infininite, see if there is a broken/burned connection in there that you can repair. But probably the windings are the weakest part.
