Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[Oldpath05]

If no welder, pick the closes size backwards drill bit and cross your fingers. If one choice for welder get a small mig welder and use .030 70s solid mig wire with welding gas, great for stuff like this, great for tack welding things together, great for filling in holes, great for thin sheet metal, great for vertical down, great for beginners............. I have a 7 year old Millermatic-211 with Auto-Set, this is the newer style. I'm sure Everlast makes good mig welder's to or Lincoln, HF maybe not so much
Miller Millermatic 211 MIG Welder with Advanced Auto-Set (97614) 715959598545 | eBay

 

[5030]

I don't think it would be my first choice for a first time welding experience. That takes a little experience, if you ask me. Personally, I use a washer, with nut welded on after, or flat metal with a hole drilled in it, like a wrench. I don't like trying to weld down into a (thick) nut.

Why not? Crank the amps up and let it rip. Especially with a SMAW setup. Sorry, stick welder. Nice thing is you accomplish 2 things, you get a place to wrench on it and you heat it which will help free it up.

 

[5030]

If all else fails and you get frustrated, go on MSC's website and get yourself a 'Hi-Rock' die reclaim drill and drill it out. Hi-Rock's will drill glass and hardened tool steel, no problem. Don't use oil for lubricant however. Hi-Rock reclaim drills are water only lubricant.

 

[MossRoad]

None that I'm aware of.....but I'm working on that. This is why I might just buy one myself. I haven't had much use for a welder (ever)... and the 2-3 times I HAVE had need, I was able to get it done. (primarily my brother in law brought his up while visiting from New Orleans)

I don't have a shop, no room for a shop, garage is already full... I'm not even sure how large a 220 circuit I can get in my garage. I have a 8-3 (I think it's 8-3, it could possibly be 6?) taking current from my main panel to my subpanel in the garage. It sits on a 50 amp circuit on the main panel if I recall.

Was looking at some stick welders and they say to put it on a 50 amp circuit.

Hmmmm.....

Can I put a 50 amp breaker in the garage that rides off a 50 amp breaker on my main box AND this garage box has a couple other things on it? (some lights & stereo that are in basement and likely wouldn't be in use during day if I'm outside welding something)

Still.... I have that situation to try to figure out. Don't want to get something that's too big for my setup. There's ZERO way I'm going to get a 50 amp dedicated circuit from the main panel to the garage through the finished basement (opposite sides of house with tile floors and drywall between)

I have a 50 amp 220V circuit in my house that feeds a sub panel in my garage.
The sub panel has a 30amp 220V circuit for my arc welder, a 15amp 220v circuit for any 220V tools I may ever get, and four 20amp 110v GFCI circuits for the pool, lights, outlets, etc...

Besides the arc welder, I also have a 110V Hobart wire-feed welder for the small stuff, like tacking nuts to broken studs.

Never have blown a breaker. If I have to arc weld, I'll shut down the pool pump if it's running just to be cautious.

 

[MossRoad]

If I lived near you, I'd toss my little 110v wire feed into my trunk, drive over, we'd weld a nut on there, back it out, and sip a couple root beers. Good luck. I know it can get frustrating.

 

[fried1765]

I sheared off a bolt in the steering head of my Harley a couple of years ago, easy outs failed, like you I couldn't stay on center either. I bought a set of left hand drill bits, and spun it out easily. I followed up by cleaning up the threads with a tap.
Regarding penetrating oil, a neighbor gave me a can of Aerokroil...it's amazing stuff...I ordered a big can of it. Having read about the efficacy of 50-50 acetone and atf mix, I have some of that mixed up and waiting for my next workshop SNAFU too.

Aerokroil is amazing stuff.
I have a Kubota 3pt top link that was left outside (by someone else) for 13 years.
The threads were completely rusted, and would not move.
I might have tried my oxy/acetylene torch, but did not want to cook the entire unit.
I was leaving for 6 months, so just put several ounces of Kroil in the top link tube, and left it to soak.
Just today, I tried using a pipe wrench on the body, to see if the threads would move.
Of course, it had been soaking a very long time, but ..... the threads broke free....and without any heat.

 

[fried1765]

If no welder, pick the closes size backwards drill bit and cross your fingers. If one choice for welder get a small mig welder and use .030 70s solid mig wire with welding gas, great for stuff like this, great for tack welding things together, great for filling in holes, great for thin sheet metal, great for vertical down, great for beginners............. I have a 7 year old Millermatic-211 with Auto-Set, this is the newer style. I'm sure Everlast makes good mig welder's to or Lincoln, HF maybe not so much
Miller Millermatic 211 MIG Welder with Advanced Auto-Set (97614) 715959598545 | eBay

A $1315 Millermatic 211 MIG to remove one bolt?
Ya think ????

 

[WranglerX]

A $1315 Millermatic 211 MIG to remove one bolt?
Ya think ????

One never knows what tomorrow may bring....

Dale

 

[newbury]

One never knows what tomorrow may bring....

Dale

There might be a drain plug in his future.

 

[Spiros]

Two words: Mouse Milk

 

[zzvyb6]

I bought a 211 2 years ago with a 20% coupon. Its a set and forget machine. Pick your gas and metal thickness and that's about it. Runs on 220 or 110 by just changing the wall plug head. Made a 50' extension cord for the 220 and have run it off of a pto generator.

 

[bullbreaker]

I can feel it in my bones , positive news , results coming soon ! This is not the Kando thread , nor are the pallets rotten in the field .................................:2cents:

 

[WranglerX]

There might be a drain plug in his future.

Are you referring to 123 or more pages of how to remove stripped drain plug (smirk)...

Just to comment but once I got my MIG welder I found all kinds of uses for it, a lot more than just simple repair on a single item....... Bought Hobart Handle 140, neat top end machine for 120 volts, does a lot.... Only wish I has seen the future and gotten the Handler 210 MVP for it additional heat on 240 volts...

Dale

 

[aczlan]

So I debate all that verses just buying something and moving on. I found a stick welder but I concluded it wanted to be plugged into a 50 amp circuit. I don't have one of those and am unsure the issues of putting it into say a 30 or 40 (I have several open slots in my garage and can add one quite easily, in fact, I probably already have some breakers laying around)

There shouldn't be any problem with running it on a 30 or a 40 amp outlet, just make sure that the plug is rated for at least as much as the circuit breaker. Not a big deal to have a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp circuit breaker, but a 30 amp plug on a 50 amp circuit breaker can be problematic.
unless you have the welder cranked all the way up you aren't going to be using 50 amps anyways. For something like that 20 amps of 240 would probably be sufficient, but if you have a 40 amp breaker available I would put in a 40 amp breaker with the appropriate wire to a 50 amp plug.
I have various welder outlets that are 50 amp outlets on breakers that are 30 amps, they're generally on a subpanel and there's only 30 amps available, usually that would be enough for most anything I do. In the shop I do have a 40 amp breaker and I have yet to trip it.

If I lived near you, I'd toss my little 110v wire feed into my trunk, drive over, we'd weld a nut on there, back it out, and sip a couple root beers. Good luck. I know it can get frustrating.

Same here, but Tennessee would be a little too far to drive from up here in New York.

Aaron Z

 

[LouNY]

I have had a Hobart Handler for over 30 years and while it has been a good little welder my primary and the first one I reach for is my even older Lincoln cracker box AC only welder.
I did pickup a Miller AC/DC used last year I haven't even tried it yet.
I am well served with my old buzz box, especially on broken bolts were I can hold the nut in the ground clamp put it in position, reach in with the stinger and pour the heat into a quick weld, I run the amps up high and just do a series of quick welds with my standby rod 6011.

 

[WranglerX]

There shouldn't be any problem with running it on a 30 or a 40 amp outlet, just make sure that the plug is rated for at least as much as the circuit breaker. Not a big deal to have a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp circuit breaker, but a 30 amp plug on a 50 amp circuit breaker can be problematic.
unless you have the welder cranked all the way up you aren't going to be using 50 amps anyways. For something like that 20 amps of 240 would probably be sufficient, but if you have a 40 amp breaker available I would put in a 40 amp breaker with the appropriate wire to a 50 amp plug.
I have various welder outlets that are 50 amp outlets on breakers that are 30 amps, they're generally on a subpanel and there's only 30 amps available, usually that would be enough for most anything I do. In the shop I do have a 40 amp breaker and I have yet to trip it.




Same here, but Tennessee would be a little too far to drive from up here in New York.

Aaron Z

The more or less industry standard today is to use a NEMA 6-50 plug/receptacle combination (50 amp) on ANY 240V welder no matter what the current draw is or what size breaker is feeding it...

Dale

 

[Richard]

I appreciate the nice comments and good vibes.

It IS going to come out one way or another.... if I'm nothing, I'm persistent.

Talked to my fabricator friend who's got a 110V portable welder. He's going to bring it over and, he's going to do the welding. Little does he know but he is ALSO going to fix the bent rod which is the whole reason for this endeavor.

I have a 100' 12g extension cord. I don't know how good it would be to put the welder 100' away on that size wire..... so, I also have the 8-3 wire sitting in the garage. Just earlier today, hunted down some parts.

Took a 20 amp outlet.... took the ends of the 8g wire, split them up a bit so that I could put the black wire on BOTH terminals on the outlet. 8g is way too big to put under the screw but I got it wiggled in there and split them. Since the two halves are joined with the copper bridge, I still have one contact point (in my way of thinking)

Then, on the other end, I only have an extra 20 amp breaker laying about and had to nip two strands off the wire to make it fit (it's a double 20 breaker..as in two single poles)

So what I'm hoping I've now created is a 20 amp probably 50' (no clue on length) extension cord using 8g wire for hot, neutral and I have no idea what size the ground wire is.

This should be a 2-use item. Weld a nut on and since he's here, RE-weld my "trailer stand" or whatever they call the crank that holds the front end of a trailer or in my case, the front end of my rotary cutter up in the air so I don't need my backhoe.

I will say, mounting an 8g wire onto an outlet isn't "quick and easy" but it can be done. Oh, I had to snip I think it was two strands to thin it down a bit.

mounted it in an outdoor weatherproof box.

I don't know how well it might work but I thought it was a pretty crafty assembly of parts on hand!!!

 

[3Ts]

If I understand you correctly you should be ok. You're basically running a black, white, and bare wire from the breaker panel with a 240 v double breaker to a 20 amp outlet as an extension cord.

I have a project coming up where there is no 240v outlet nearby, but the main breaker panel is close. When it's time, I'll pull the cover off the main breaker panel and put in (temporarily) a 240v breaker and attach the black, white & ground. Then wire the other end with the proper outlet so I can plug my welder into it. Essentially a 240 v extension cord that plugs into the main breaker panel. That means that the main breaker cover will be off while I do my welding. It's just me and my wife and she knows enough not to go poking around in the panel with the cover off. I would not do this if there was anyone else around unless I had someone I trusted to keep an eye on it.

 

[MossRoad]

If I understand you correctly you should be ok. You're basically running a black, white, and bare wire from the breaker panel with a 240 v double breaker to a 20 amp outlet as an extension cord.

I have a project coming up where there is no 240v outlet nearby, but the main breaker panel is close. When it's time, I'll pull the cover off the main breaker panel and put in (temporarily) a 240v breaker and attach the black, white & ground. Then wire the other end with the proper outlet so I can plug my welder into it. Essentially a 240 v extension cord that plugs into the main breaker panel. That means that the main breaker cover will be off while I do my welding. It's just me and my wife and she knows enough not to go poking around in the panel with the cover off. I would not do this if there was anyone else around unless I had someone I trusted to keep an eye on it.

Nope. I think he's running 110V.

 

[pmsmechanic]

If I didn't have a welder I would heat the bolt up and soak the threads in candle wax. As it cooled I would be tapping the end sticking out with a hammer. You do that three times and you should be just about able to turn it out with your fingers. A slot ground in the end of the bolt and a screw driver would do it. The hammering on the bolt head acts like an impact gun and loosens the threads. It also creates a bit of clearance where the bolt is jammed up against the hole in the pin. The wax lubricates and gets drawn down the threads as the metal cools.

Welding a washer and a nut on the bolt will also loosen things up. Have a candle handy and hold it against the parts as they cool. Give the nut several good whacks with a hammer and it should easily turn out. Again hitting the bolt good with a hammer will loosen the threads and give a tiny bit of clearance on the internal end of the bolt.