Help! setup with Cat1/Cat2 tire rub

[scratchpad]

When i hook up to my neighbors Cat2 set up disc my tires will rub the sway bars and lower links when the disc sways slightly to one side or the other. The sway bars cant be adjusted any tighter and ive tried everything i can think of, short of flipping the wheels, to eliminate this. Am i missing something? Can my wheels be flopped for more width to allow for Cat2 implements?

 

[Grandad4]

Hard to tell from the pictures, but the bottom links look awfully wide on that disc. The standard widths for Cat I and II are 26 and 32 inches, I believe.

 

[Grandad4]

Many 3 point attachments have a single-point draw pin like this:

CountyLine Draw Pin, Cat 1 to 2, S24TSC at Tractor Supply Co.

That's not as strong as the configuration on your disc, but you could put something like that on the inside holes of your disc to give you clearance.

 

[fitter1]

Looks like you can gain a few inches with the tires flipped and rims adjusted to their widest stance. Check you manual it will tell you how. Do the front also.

 

[Tx Jim]

I can't determine from photo if lower draft pin has a pipe spacer uninstalled. If it doesn't install a pipe spacer that will move draft link to narrower position on the pin which should give more clearance between draft links & tires.

 

[LouNY]

Looking at your pictures of the wheels,
yes you can flip them.
If you take them off and move them to the other side the valve stems will be on the inside.
Thats not a big deal either.
I wouldnt bother with the fronts, I didn't.

 

[mbu]

The best solution is to buy your own disk that fits your tractor instead of borrowing your neighbor's.

 

[scratchpad]

Hard to tell from the pictures, but the bottom links look awfully wide on that disc. The standard widths for Cat I and II are 26 and 32 inches, I believe.

yea its standard Cat 2 disc. some discs come setup with a dual setup like you mention but since its my neighbors i cant modify it.

 

[scratchpad]

Looks like you can gain a few inches with the tires flipped and rims adjusted to their widest stance. Check you manual it will tell you how. Do the front also.

:thumbsup:

 

[scratchpad]

I can't determine from photo if lower draft pin has a pipe spacer uninstalled. If it doesn't install a pipe spacer that will move draft link to narrower position on the pin which should give more clearance between draft links & tires.

No there isnt a spacer. That would have worked though. Adjusting the top link did have an effect on the lower links moving to the most inward position, however, the rear of the disc was about 4 inches lower than the front.

 

[scratchpad]

Looking at your pictures of the wheels,
yes you can flip them.
If you take them off and move them to the other side the valve stems will be on the inside.
Thats not a big deal either.
I wouldnt bother with the fronts, I didn't.
View attachment 650492 View attachment 650493

not worried about the valve stems. should i bother with putting the wheel weights on the outside?

 

[Ford850]

You can also move the wheel center pan/disk to the inside of the rim’s tabs rather than the outside. That will gain you the width of those tabs times two.

 

[pmsmechanic]

If you install a spacer on each side like TexasJim mentioned and don't lift the disc up all the way I'm thinking you will be ok without moving your tires. It probably only rubs when the lift arms are raised completely.

 

[scratchpad]

You can also move the wheel center pan/disk to the inside of the rim’s tabs rather than the outside. That will gain you the width of those tabs times two.

ok i see what youre talking about. That approx. 1.5 " "spacer", basically just move the wheel to the outside of the hub? Would i then have to flip the bolts the other direction? Or, keep them in the same direction they are?

 

[scratchpad]

If you install a spacer on each side like TexasJim mentioned and don't lift the disc up all the way I'm thinking you will be ok without moving your tires. It probably only rubs when the lift arms are raised completely.

absolutely! i know that will work.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Also if you move the top link to the top holes on the tractor and the disc it'll be easier on your lift linkages working in the field.

 

[LouNY]

ok i see what youre talking about. That approx. 1.5 " "spacer", basically just move the wheel to the outside of the hub? Would i then have to flip the bolts the other direction? Or, keep them in the same direction they are?

Yes flip your bolts over, with the scallops in your wheel centers you may be able to unbolt the rims from the centers after jacking just a bit and rotate the centers and walk the rims out,
rotate and jack to line up the holes and be good

 

[WranglerX]

Then I would unbolt the rim from center section (that way you can leave weights on), and swap rim/tire side to side and bolt back up, probably will give you clearance.... Another plus is it give tractor more stability...

As others mentioned having you own implement and modified if necessary to fit your tractor solves many issues....

Dale

 

[xring100]

Looks like you should be able to just move the wheel center to the opposite side and it will move the wheel out about 1.5" each side

When i hook up to my neighbors Cat2 set up disc my tires will rub the sway bars and lower links when the disc sways slightly to one side or the other. The sway bars cant be adjusted any tighter and ive tried everything i can think of, short of flipping the wheels, to eliminate this. Am i missing something? Can my wheels be flopped for more width to allow for Cat2 implements?
View attachment 650464View attachment 650465View attachment 650466View attachment 650467View attachment 650468

 

[scratchpad]

Also if you move the top link to the top holes on the tractor and the disc it'll be easier on your lift linkages working in the field.

without getting into a side discussion, it was my understanding that when doing heavy ground engagement to use the lower hole on the top link.