Welding Web Down?

[Big Barn]

Unfortunately some of the dregs will move off and make it over here out of desperation. I hope that doesn't happen. confused3:

Too late. I’ve already made myself at home. Even brought my own popcorn.

 

[dstig1]

Eh, you've been around plenty long enough Lis... Is it Ok if I call you Lis here

Haven't seen CEP (Shield arc) around here in a long time but he's been on WW within the past couple/few weeks...before the crash

 

[California]

Somebody said amateurs welding with bedframe angle iron?

For one of my first projects I asked the usual beginner questions on WW before starting and got some good advice.

Below are 3-point forks I cobbled together long ago using bedframe angle iron and a scrap relay rack The welds look amateurish but using 6011 I got good penetration. (It was painted after this fabrication photo). Its still in use and the welds are solid. This was one of my first projects with the 1960's Montgomery Wards 230-AC stick welder. (Similar specs to a Tombstone).

After getting a little experience with that $50 welder I bought a blue HF-90 AC "Mig100" flux welder ($72!) and never did get to work as well as the ancient stick welder. Lots of others in WW's HF forum had the same experience. After the next, black, generation of HF wire welders came out, that WW forum for HF mostly died. No more complaints, just posts on how to modify the early models. The black generation ones apparently work as expected.

After that HF90 I got a Century 130 DC 120v wire welder, where a thread on WW got me to someone who had a manual for it. This was what the HF-90 should have been, it worked well for light work. I miss Welding Web and hope it comes back.

 

[Big Barn]

Eh, you've been around plenty long enough Lis... Is it Ok if I call you Lis here

Haven't seen CEP (Shield arc) around here in a long time but he's been on WW within the past couple/few weeks...before the crash

Of course. It’s no secret.

Over there I’m LIS ( Limited Income Senior)

 

[radios1]

IF curious to ownership.. Here is where to start....

WHOIS search results
Domain Name: WELDINGWEB.COM
Registry Domain ID: 102564093_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN
Registrar WHOIS Server: whois.registrar.amazon.com
Registrar URL: Amazon Route 53 - Amazon Web Services
Updated Date: 2019-11-14T05:17:36Z
Creation Date: 2003-08-24T23:28:01Z
Registry Expiry Date: 2021-08-24T23:28:01Z
Registrar: Amazon Registrar, Inc.
Registrar IANA ID: 468
Registrar Abuse Contact Email:
Registrar Abuse Contact Phone:
Domain Status: clientTransferProhibited EPP Status Codes | What Do They Mean, and Why Should I Know? - ICANN
Name Server: NS-107.AWSDNS-13.COM
Name Server: NS-1254.AWSDNS-28.ORG
Name Server: NS-1684.AWSDNS-18.CO.UK
Name Server: NS-910.AWSDNS-49.NET
DNSSEC: unsigned
URL of the ICANN Whois Inaccuracy Complaint Form: https://www.icann.org/wicf/
>>> Last update of whois database: 2020-02-06T16:45:44Z <<<


Oddly no contact information...

that's because criminals don't want to be contacted, Amazon can make more money appealing to a broader audience!.. not that WELDINGWEB.COM has anything to do with criminality, but hiding the owners is just a standard part of Amazon Route 53..

 

[stuckmotor]

Import our cars, trucks, tractors, Red Wings, Kohlers, and cel phones, but perish the thought of buying an imported welder.

(I'm keeping my Everlast.)

I'm keeping mine too.

 

[Bigb56]

Somebody said amateurs welding with bedframe angle iron?

For one of my first projects I asked the usual beginner questions on WW before starting and got some good advice.

Below are 3-point forks I cobbled together long ago using bedframe angle iron and a scrap relay rack The welds look amateurish but using 6011 I got good penetration. (It was painted after this fabrication photo). Its still in use and the welds are solid. This was one of my first projects with the 1960's Montgomery Wards 230-AC stick welder. (Similar specs to a Tombstone).

After getting a little experience with that $50 welder I bought a blue HF-90 AC "Mig100" flux welder ($72!) and never did get to work as well as the ancient stick welder. Lots of others in WW's HF forum had the same experience. After the next, black, generation of HF wire welders came out, that WW forum for HF mostly died. No more complaints, just posts on how to modify the early models. The black generation ones apparently work as expected.

After that HF90 I got a Century 130 DC 120v wire welder, where a thread on WW got me to someone who had a manual for it. This was what the HF-90 should have been, it worked well for light work. I miss Welding Web and hope it comes back.

Bedframe has it's place, I recently learned that it makes excellent blacksmith tongs due to it's springiness. Besides if you use it for a trailer you don't need any leaf springs:laughing:

 

[yomax4]

Bedframe has it's place, I recently learned that it makes excellent blacksmith tongs due to it's springiness. Besides if you use it for a trailer you don't need any leaf springs:laughing:

I never turn down a free bed frame. They're hard on bandsaw blades and drill bits but the plasma dices them up.

 

[Big Barn]

I used tons of the stuff that was used to build shipping crates for utes and atvs from China. As yomax said no drill bits or bandsaw!

I would chop up with plasma and then square/ cut to length eliminating weldments with my abrasive chop saw. (Don’t risk ruining a dry cut saw blade)

People scoff at the old abrasive chop saws but I would NEVER part with my 40 year old Makita. They are perfect for cutting crap and those unknown hardness materials.



Great for odd projects and easy to weld but they are either metric or just oddly dimensioned.

 

[the old grind]

Those bed frame irons are high-carbon steel, and for that they are very prone to work-hardening in the cut with the friction-heat of saw teeth or drill bit pressure. (Metal Shop 101)

To saw or drill them use low speed high pressure and coolant vs 'lube' which is typically a worst choice if it's "oil". IMO&E, washer fluid &/or Windex are the kings of underrated home shop quick job coolants when tooling bed frame-type hot-rolled angles channels, H-extrusions.

I still use an abrasive cut-off wheel. Common error is to force the cut. (Its a grinder, not a saw.) This can load up a wheel on some metals (soft steels, alum, yellow metals). Use your dog turd (rounded/abused wheel dressing 'stick') to touch a spinning wheel and keep the grit open. If a grinding wheel ever slows down on you, then you ain't no grinder, either!

 

[Big Barn]

.

I still use an abrasive cut-off wheel. Common error is to force the cut. (Its a grinder, not a saw.) This can load up a wheel on some metals (soft steels, alum, yellow metals).

When I bought my abrasive chop saw years ago the rep showed me how to use a light controlled CHOPPING motion. In addition to not overheating the disc I think you get less blade deflection which is the cause of “out of square” on deeper cuts.

I really don’t think many people use this method but I have to this day with virtually no problems. 40 years of use on the farm with only a broken spinner handle on the vise, blade replacements and regular BJ’s for the motor. Nothing to complain about.

Good idea on the dog turd. It never even occurred to me. I have one for my belt sander. What a dumazz!

 

[yomax4]

Those bed frame irons are high-carbon steel, and for that they are very prone to work-hardening in the cut with the friction-heat of saw teeth or drill bit pressure. (Metal Shop 101)

To saw or drill them use low speed high pressure and coolant vs 'lube' which is typically a worst choice if it's "oil". IMO&E, washer fluid &/or Windex are the kings of underrated home shop quick job coolants when tooling bed frame-type hot-rolled angles channels, H-extrusions.

I still use an abrasive cut-off wheel. Common error is to force the cut. (Its a grinder, not a saw.) This can load up a wheel on some metals (soft steels, alum, yellow metals). Use your dog turd (rounded/abused wheel dressing 'stick') to touch a spinning wheel and keep the grit open. If a grinding wheel ever slows down on you, then you ain't no grinder, either!

View attachment 640547 View attachment 640551

Do you ever use a "coolant" like washer fluid on regular mild steel or do you go back to the oils?

 

[Big Barn]

I always use a small step drill for holes in angle iron including questionable quality bed rails. I usually add a spot of coolant but for thin stuff perhaps it isn’t even necessary. Oldgrind would shed better insight.



Two inch and wider angle iron I will punch in the ironworker. (Along with anything else that fits)

 

[the old grind]

Do you ever use a "coolant" like washer fluid on regular mild steel or do you go back to the oils?

Never any 'lubricating oils'. They lubricate the cutting edge. It's the tool that does the work, not brute or inefficient horsepower behind it. Oil-like cutting fluids have various familiar viscosity/thickness but its about surface tension on a molecular micro-level that we don't see. (I do my my turning and milling dry except for brand name tapping fluids like Anchor Lube, Cool Tool II), or perhaps a spritz of WD rust preserver machining yellow metals not bearing bronzes. Bed-rail is like key stock, in that you can go right through either with a hack saw if you go slow and don't let them get more than warm to the touch. If you rush, you'll end up using a cutoff wheel to finish. (high carbon content provides work-hardening properties)

Classic and rarely challenged by the best of modern chemistry cutting/cooling 'lubes' remain the unhealthy white lead, and the oft funky-smelling rendered/drained pork fat. The waxy stick-type modern things are just superb, period. High on efficiency, low on mess/cleanup. With any good cutting fluid, friction is reduced where chips roll up spiral drill flutes* or out of reamer, broach, or saw-tooth 'gullets' but that low surface tension is letting the cutting edge bite into the workpiece like it wants to by design. Ask anybody who uses them!

Anyway, to answer, the 'glass cleaners' are as 'good' at cooling as plain water, letting teeth and cutting edges bite in while having a high specific heat to cool as best as can be imagined. What they offer us is cheap but top results and easy to clean up where they might have to be splashed on. So out in the shop/garage, barn where we can best use them there's rarely evidence of use after a coffee break. I've dribbled water as a helper to demonstrate how much easier bedframe 'drills', ... and how many holes a HFT drill-bit can do through bed-rail steel by just net letting it get hot

*A TiN (electro-vapor deposited gold-colored coating) is there to lube/cool the chip as it curls into the flute. When such a drill is resharpened, we 'grind our way up' to a new portion right behind the lip. Grinding it away from the 'relief/clearance' takes nothing away from the coating's purpose, so sharpen & use 'em vs ever toss 'em out. "Read the chip" to see how you're doing and never assume that WFO is a proper drilling speed. That's really for 1/8" and smaller drilling.

Portable progress tip: Revised: With a proper/prescribed product ... A Grizzly or ebay 'Mist nozzle with magnetic base' only needs a tank, and few cfm of air at 40 or so PSI (HFT airbrush compressor, etc) to set up mist cooling on about any job. (got mag drill?) Tops if shop or job's 'atmosphere' demands the least overspray, and only go in for the very best (Lincoln, Miller), Fog Buster equals all the advantages of mist or flood coolant except the former's cost to buy in.

 

[yomax4]

Interesting. I've been dumping Mistic Metal Mover on every drilled hole forever.

 

[the old grind]

I totally left out black oil above. Also I looked up MMM. MSDS says 'clear, mild organic odor'. Looks good, & I wonder if it's anything like Ballistol, a very versatile product.

Anyway, I searched for info on MMM and ended up on Amazon. While there I found a better mister setup than what I have now. (AKA good enough to use :laughing Low price and supply tube, quick fittings, etc. A portable setup need not be complicated. I have machines on two floors to share one pkg. On-off is by an air valve you install, coolant siphons so valve adjustments are abrupt when you start up. These don't often dribble much.

Amazon.com: Metal Cutting Engraving Machine Mist Cool Coolant Lubrication Spray System for Air Pipe CNC Lathe Milling Drill for Cooling Sprayer Machine: Home Improvement

They show Kool Mist #77 as 'bought with' on the page, tho' that gallon of concentrate could be a lifetime supply for most of us. 'Trim' is another brand with top products.

 

[Big Barn]

I totally left out black oil above. Also I looked up MMM. MSDS says 'clear, mild organic odor'. Looks good, & I wonder if it's anything like Ballistol, a very versatile product.

Anyway, I searched for info on MMM and ended up on Amazon. While there I found a better mister setup than what I have now. (AKA good enough to use :laughing Low price and supply tube, quick fittings, etc. A portable setup need not be complicated. I have machines on two floors to share one pkg. On-off is by an air valve you install, coolant siphons so valve adjustments are abrupt when you start up. These don't often dribble much.

Amazon.com: Metal Cutting Engraving Machine Mist Cool Coolant Lubrication Spray System for Air Pipe CNC Lathe Milling Drill for Cooling Sprayer Machine: Home Improvement

They show Kool Mist #77 as 'bought with' on the page, tho' that gallon of concentrate could be a lifetime supply for most of us. 'Trim' is another brand with top products.

I have one of those!

As far as I’m concerned that makes me smarter than I thought. . Well in my mind it does, so it still counts, right ?

 

[ovrszd]

I have one of those!

As far as I’m concerned that makes me smarter than I thought. . Well in my mind it does, so it still counts, right ?

Of course.

 

[California]

The blue 'pressure washer pump storage' juice isn't just for storing power-painters too. It's an oil/water emulsion typically ~95/5 water/oil with emulsifying agents.

Just a comment - I looked up the MSDS for pressure washer storage fluid I was going to buy. Brand-name, same as a widely sold pressure washer. Discovered that fluid was nothing special, it was ordinary automotive coolant. Ingredients ethylene glycol and water pump lubricant. (Also not blue).

Check the ingredients before paying double for commonplace fluids!

 

[the old grind]

Just a comment - I looked up the MSDS for pressure washer storage fluid I was going to buy. Brand-name, same as a widely sold pressure washer. Discovered that fluid was nothing special, it was ordinary automotive coolant. Ingredients ethylene glycol and water pump lubricant. (Also not blue).

Check the ingredients before paying double for commonplace fluids!

Yup. :thumbsup: I'd like to edit out bad info based on what I could and couldn't find ain't like all like the '90s options. Had stuff back then that checked out as I said, but my bottle of Graco stuff is indeed ~ half glycol and no oil or emulsifier & I didn't check their MSDS. :ashamed: Might be the second one I've ever bought, sure the other brand years before checked out. It was 4x the price. I've never used the pump juice as coolant, just thought I might way back when the formula was similar to what we used at work.

The Kool Mist is a sure bet. But I don't often want to suggest a cheap quickie that then costs 2x in consumables to even try out. (Doh!) Washer fluid would be fine there, but you'd want to mist your tables/vises to prevent rust. My point was that mist cooling doesn't have to be anchored down and might be used on bed-frame steel. I don't weld for sour hen crap, so I do a lot of bolt-up assembly. (thanks for the correction. )