grsthegreat
Super Star Member
dont the glow pluge shut off prior to the starter engaging?
I have to admit that I'm confused a bit too. Four 6V batteries in series? All that to start a generator engine that's probably about 20hp? Then there's this issue with connecting all 6 batteries together? Do you have a diagram of this setup, because something doesn't sound right. It sounds more like Rube Goldberg wired it. I think you really need somebody that knows and understands DC electricity.
I have to admit that I'm confused a bit too. Four 6V batteries in series? All that to start a generator engine that's probably about 20hp? Then there's this issue with connecting all 6 batteries together? Do you have a diagram of this setup, because something doesn't sound right. It sounds more like Rube Goldberg wired it. I think you really need somebody that knows and understands DC electricity.
Zzjea: When you install the starter, is the starter gear disengaged from the fly wheel? You mentioned that you were surprised to see the starter gear was engaged with the flywheel the last time you looked at it. My thought here is that some starters require shimming between the starter housing and the engine mount in order to get adequate clearance between the starter gear and the flywheel teeth. Otherwise the starter gear can become lodged in the flywheel teeth due to friction. A test for this condition is to loosen the starter mount bolts and see if the starter gear snaps back to the disengaged position.
Also, the voltage being too low can cause the starter solenoid/relay to drop out and shut off the starter.If your dropping down to 8 ish you not allowing enough volts to starter. As voltage drops, the amperage increases and wires arnt allowing it to pass.
Probably the 6V batteries are wired with pairs in series and the pairs in parallel.I have to admit that I'm confused a bit too. Four 6V batteries in series? All that to start a generator engine that's probably about 20hp? Then there's this issue with connecting all 6 batteries together? Do you have a diagram of this setup, because something doesn't sound right. It sounds more like Rube Goldberg wired it. I think you really need somebody that knows and understands DC electricity.
i wish you were closer i would come over and give you a hand - once you get that baby going you will absolutely LOVE it!!! I had something similar on a SS and there is a ground/interlock switch with a little key that has to be turned to engage the ground for starting, not sure why they put those in if for theft or what BUT, there was evidently corrosion or something wrong with the contacts inside it, i had put on a new ground wire, had the starter rebuilt, had the batteries replaced and then decided one day to hook the wires direct with a bolt and bypass it after spending all the money/time and that was it - if you can reach the starter bolt use your jumper cable to go right to it, and clamp the ground right to the unit, bypass all of the cabling, see how it acts -
dont the glow pluge shut off prior to the starter engaging?
Actually this is standard procedure for motorhomes. House batteries (anywhere from 2 to 8, 6v deep cycle in series to get 12v ouput) power all the DC electrical stuff in the MH plus there is a Converter for shore power (120vac) to convert from 120vac to 12vdc to charge the batteries. There is almost always a combination converter/inverter (which I have) that will supply 120vac to some circuits in the MH when there is no shore power available. All this works perfectly. Those same 4 6vdc deep cycle house batteries are used to crank the generator. They do not use the Cummins start batteries (2 12v) because they do not want you to run the risk of discharging those batteries and not being able to start the Cummins and get you moving.
The crossover switch is to momentarily connect all the house and chassis batteries together to provide additional amperage usually for a quick start of the MH engine if the chassis batteries are low. Engaging this switch made no difference for cranking the genset and if it were battery amperage problems only, it should have started the genset.
However, I have the same results of not cranking when I bypassed the house batteries and tried to jump the genset from my 12v car battery, while the car was running and the alternator producing 14v.
I wish we were closer, I would take you up on it. I bet you would figure it out quickly if you were hands on. I will try this and see what happens. Temp is supposed to be 111 feels like, so I will see if I want to tackle it today. Thanks for the offer.
Obviously you don't know series from parallel...... FOUR 6 volt batteries in SERIES would make 24 volts.... FOUR 6 volt batteries in PARALLEL would be 6 volts but 4X the amperage.... TWO 12 volt batteries in SERIES would be 24 volts and TWO 12 volt batteries is PARALLEL would be 12 volts but 2X the amperage....
You need to go back and review DC POWER 101....
YOU statements only lends confusion to the issue as you keep claiming everything is 12 volt but insist every battery string is in series... IT JUST CAN NOT HAPPEN......
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I buy the concept you have 2- 12 volt batteries in parallel, or 4 - 6 volt batteries in serie/parallel arrangement, but then my only experience is in DC power system for telecommunications...
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24 cell string producing 2.25 volts per cell in series to produce 52.08 volt at float voltage, but about 500 amps per battery string (cell) ... 7 strings in picture 3,5000 amps (it's a work in progress and not completed)...
There is enough battery power here to melt your entire motorhome....
Alos you might learn something about batteries here.....
Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ, Battery Manufacturers and Brand Names List, and
Dale
Are THOSE the MH batteies? Must be a pretty big MH to have a special battery room. lol
I bet in moderate temperatures I could start either of my 3 cyl Kubota Powered Generators with a (healthy, charged up) lawn and garden battery.
If you were close, I would love to get that sweetie running!