Replacement 7TL Curl Cylinder

[madhouse]

I managed to bend a curl cylinder on my 7TL. Bobcat wants $900 to replace or $330 to replace rod and seals.

Has anyone found a cheaper option?

 

[powerscol]

Reach out to Brian ( MtnViewRanch) He is a member her and knows hydraulics.

 

[winston1]

I managed to bend a curl cylinder on my 7TL. Bobcat wants $900 to replace or $330 to replace rod and seals.

Has anyone found a cheaper option?

Got my curiosity up and I have googled for a couple of hours. Seems the specs on these cylinders are a little odd. I have not found anything even close. Doesn't mean it is not out there. Have you spoken to any hydraulic shops in your area?

 

[madhouse]

Got my curiosity up and I have googled for a couple of hours. Seems the specs on these cylinders are a little odd. I have not found anything even close. Doesn't mean it is not out there. Have you spoken to any hydraulic shops in your area?

I have only called Bobcat up to this point.

My next step was to throw it out on here and let people much smarter than me point me in the right direction.

 

[lilranch2001]

Just curious, how did you bend it?

 

[Billrog]

If you just bent the rod stick it in a press and straighten it .

 

[madhouse]

Just curious, how did you bend it?

I broke the pivot point off the loader arm with a over-sized bucket full of snow. It twisted the other pivot and bent the rod.

 

[Billrog]

That's a very slight bend easily straightened. As for the pivot points a machine shop may be able to get you back in action.

 

[lilranch2001]

Thanks for the info
I think I am going to have a close look at my loader arms......

 

[Lockport]

What year is that 7TL?

 

[madhouse]

The tractor is a 2010... I'm assuming the loader is as well - not sure.

 

[TractorGuy]

Measure the retracted length, extended length to determine stroke, and pin diameter. See if you can match it up with generic cylinders and just replace both of them. One thing you run into with generic cylinders is the cross type have the hydraulic connections on the top or bottom in relation to the pin. Tang type cylinders will have the hydraulic ports going out the side in relation to the pin, more like your factory loader cylinders have. You may have to trim or shim the ends to make it fit where the old cylinder lived but it is doable. You may want to increase the bore and rod diameter by a little to give it more strength.

Here are some tang types to look at specs on for comparison.
Hydraulic Cylinder Tang

I recently replaced all the cylinders on a John Deere loader with generic cross type cylinders. I was able to connect the hoses on top and bottom to get around the different hydraulic orientation. In my case i was already buying new hoses so I just had them made to work with my modifications. Loader has been working fine for me and I have higher lift and more strength due to 1/4" larger bore and rod diameters.

 

[lilranch2001]

Like I stated in a earlier post, that I was going to go inspect my loader arms.
Below are two pics of what I hope is not the beginnings of an issue.
371 hours on my tractor.




Does the "scratch" at the bottom of the weld appear to you to be the beginning of a weld failure or just a scratch in the paint?

I am almost tempted to go ahead and grind that part of the weld out this spring, drill it and re weld it.
As you can see, it is almost directly through from the location of the pivot mount

 

[lilranch2001]

also one other point, I know there have been many statements on here that back dragging with your bucket is not very good on your loader, and I have to own up that I have never taken heed of those warnings.

 

[MESSMAKER]

also one other point, I know there have been many statements on here that back dragging with your bucket is not very good on your loader, and I have to own up that I have never taken heed of those warnings.

I am guilty of the same. You just have to do what works sometimes.