Bucket curl cylinder leaking

[Flogger]

I have access to a hydraulic parts store. I take the seals in and match them up at a fraction of dealer prices. Most cylinders are a simple task to rebuild but there are occasional surprises such as the dreaded slipper seal!

 

[Fxfymn413]

My philosophy has always been "I can F... it up 3 or 4 times for the cost of having someone do it for me and by the time I'm done I will have learned something besides how to write a check."

If the parts are reasonable, say less than $50.00, the worse that can happen if it doesn't work out is you are out 50 bucks and a couple hours of your time. .

 

[sd455dan]

My philosophy has always been "I can F... it up 3 or 4 times for the cost of having someone do it for me and by the time I'm done I will have learned something besides how to write a check."

If the parts are reasonable, say less than $50.00, the worse that can happen if it doesn't work out is you are out 50 bucks and a couple hours of your time. .

Agreed on learning to do new repair jobs, but a caveat with hydraulic cylinders.
It is possible to slip trying to get gland nuts loose, I used old bicycle tube wrapped multiple times and taped around the piston rods. It happens fast when putting force on whatever type of removal tool is used and things go bad. 48" Pipe wrench teeth or air hammer attachment can do real damage to a chromed rod surface and no sacrificial material is used to absorb a mistake. Have also seen people break decent sized vices trying to break a piston nut loose as well.

 

[dieselscout80]

My TC45DA’s TL250 curl cylinders allow the bucket to flop back and forth when in the dumped position.

It will curl up a full bucket but it is difficult to back drag with the bucket edge due to the flopping. Back dragging with the back edge of the bucket still works though.

I’m fairly certain it’s time to repack the curl cylinders.

 

[Hughman]

I did find a couple of hydrologic shops near by. Still I think I'll take a crack at it myself first. If I get into trouble I can always take it to a shop to bail me out.

First I need to get further through our mowing season before I take the tractor offline.

 

[oldnslo]

My TC45DA’s TL250 curl cylinders allow the bucket to flop back and forth when in the dumped position.

It will curl up a full bucket but it is difficult to back drag with the bucket edge due to the flopping. Back dragging with the back edge of the bucket still works though.

I’m fairly certain it’s time to repack the curl cylinders.

It is possible you are experiencing the “floppy bucket” syndrome that occurs on some loaders. This happens when the bucket dumps faster from load induced forces than oil can fill the blind end of the cylinder pulling a vacuum and creating an air pocket.

A simple test for this syndrome is: Try dumping fully and hold joystick in the dump position for a few seconds then curl back a little and try back dragging to see what happens. If works now that points towards the floppy bucket syndrome.

Least cost cure is installing a restriction ( orifice or flow control) in the rod end line of dump cylinders to limit how fast it dumps and prevent the run away dump.

Other option is regenerative spool in dump valve. Some tractors have this option some don’t.

I went a different route since have single dump cylinder and installed a counterbalance or overcenter valve which prevents run away dump and allows feathering or infinite dump speed which I utilize when have forks on the loader.

 

[dieselscout80]

It is possible you are experiencing the “floppy bucket” syndrome that occurs on some loaders. This happens when the bucket dumps faster from load induced forces than oil can fill the blind end of the cylinder pulling a vacuum and creating an air pocket.

A simple test for this syndrome is: Try dumping fully and hold joystick in the dump position for a few seconds then curl back a little and try back dragging to see what happens. If works now that points towards the floppy bucket syndrome.

Least cost cure is installing a restriction ( orifice or flow control) in the rod end line of dump cylinders to limit how fast it dumps and prevent the run away dump.

Other option is regenerative spool in dump valve. Some tractors have this option some don’t.

I went a different route since have single dump cylinder and installed a counterbalance or overcenter valve which prevents run away dump and allows feathering or infinite dump speed which I utilize when have forks on the loader.

Interesting I’ll have to check that.

But I don’t think it’s the issue since I can’t back drag with the cutting edge of the bucket. It’s worth checking out though.

 

[newbury]

To the OP - Yes it looks simple to do, if you have the time, the space, the tools, and the need to do it often. Practice makes perfect.
But if you mess it up you may have to redo it.
My first cylinder (on my M4700) rebuild cost at a local shop was ~ $60, ~ 10 years ago. A few year ago my (other side) second was about ~$120. For that frequency to me it wasn't worth my time and effort. Each time the seal kit was about half the cost of having it rebuilt.

 

[oldnslo]

Interesting I’ll have to check that.

But I don’t think it’s the issue since I can’t back drag with the cutting edge of the bucket. It’s worth checking out though.

Diesel
If the curl cylinders are full of oil and there are no external leaks they cannot retract from external load since rod end volume is less than blind end volume or stated differently leaking piston seals will not cause bucket to be floppy when back dragging.

Air in blind end will compress and allow bucket to move but oil will not compress.

Hope the above makes sense.

 

[spankyscamp]

I have a bucket truck that I have rebuilt the main 5" cylinder myself. Take the piston off the rod and take it along to the hydraulic shop along with the id of the cylinder and they will find the seals for you. When you reinstall the piston/rod back into the cylinder use some .001' shim stock wrapped around the piston to push it back in so you don't damage the new seals on the threads Helps to eliminate seal damage. You can find .001" think slim stock on the internet. Comes in a roll, just cut off enough to go around the piston.

 

[JOATMON3]

A local hydraulic shop may be the way to go. They may do the job including seals and labor for only a bit more than the dealer would want for parts. You could probably call for an estimate.

Absolutely! You will likely need your local hydraulic shop many times. They know who they're competing against so they usually win in both service and price.