Replacement 7TL Curl Cylinder
- Thread starter madhouse
- Start date
- Views: 7069
TractorGuy
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4,591
- Location
- N. FL
- Tractor
- John Deere 4310 CUT, Ford New Holland 575E Industrial Backhoe, John Deere F725 Front Mount Mower
Measure the retracted length, extended length to determine stroke, and pin diameter. See if you can match it up with generic cylinders and just replace both of them. One thing you run into with generic cylinders is the cross type have the hydraulic connections on the top or bottom in relation to the pin. Tang type cylinders will have the hydraulic ports going out the side in relation to the pin, more like your factory loader cylinders have. You may have to trim or shim the ends to make it fit where the old cylinder lived but it is doable. You may want to increase the bore and rod diameter by a little to give it more strength.
Here are some tang types to look at specs on for comparison.
Hydraulic Cylinder Tang
I recently replaced all the cylinders on a John Deere loader with generic cross type cylinders. I was able to connect the hoses on top and bottom to get around the different hydraulic orientation. In my case i was already buying new hoses so I just had them made to work with my modifications. Loader has been working fine for me and I have higher lift and more strength due to 1/4" larger bore and rod diameters.
Here are some tang types to look at specs on for comparison.
Hydraulic Cylinder Tang
I recently replaced all the cylinders on a John Deere loader with generic cross type cylinders. I was able to connect the hoses on top and bottom to get around the different hydraulic orientation. In my case i was already buying new hoses so I just had them made to work with my modifications. Loader has been working fine for me and I have higher lift and more strength due to 1/4" larger bore and rod diameters.
lilranch2001
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
- Messages
- 6,215
- Tractor
- Bobcat CT 235
Like I stated in a earlier post, that I was going to go inspect my loader arms.
Below are two pics of what I hope is not the beginnings of an issue.
371 hours on my tractor.
Does the "scratch" at the bottom of the weld appear to you to be the beginning of a weld failure or just a scratch in the paint?
I am almost tempted to go ahead and grind that part of the weld out this spring, drill it and re weld it.
As you can see, it is almost directly through from the location of the pivot mount
Below are two pics of what I hope is not the beginnings of an issue.
371 hours on my tractor.
Does the "scratch" at the bottom of the weld appear to you to be the beginning of a weld failure or just a scratch in the paint?
I am almost tempted to go ahead and grind that part of the weld out this spring, drill it and re weld it.
As you can see, it is almost directly through from the location of the pivot mount
lilranch2001
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2009
- Messages
- 6,215
- Tractor
- Bobcat CT 235
also one other point, I know there have been many statements on here that back dragging with your bucket is not very good on your loader, and I have to own up that I have never taken heed of those warnings.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
I am guilty of the same. You just have to do what works sometimes.