John Deere 3038e 3 pt not working.

[Flakbait98]

Hi everyone,


Im new to this forum I own a 2015 John Deere 3038e that has a 3 pt issue. Currently I bought the tractor knowing that the 3 pt wouldnt go up or down figured a simple fix....Right.... I can in fact grab the lift arms and move them by hand up and down by hand. Almost feels like I have no hydraulics going to the lift cylinder what so ever. The tractor had the bucket removed well before I got it for some reason or another. So I figured it needed a "bypass" per say to get the 3pt to work so I added a line per the JD dealer on the lower two plugged ports on the rockshaft valve in hopes that it get the 3pt to function. Nope... So I checked the pressure relief valves and the 3pt speed and they were all looked to be in working order. I opened my 3pt speed control valve all the way and still nothing.. Im getting a little stumped.. The pump on this tractor works the hydro-static transmission and the power steering and both work fine. Im wondering if it could be a spool valve or the electric/hydraulic portioning valve that is not opening correctly since they are the first thing that the fluid hits going into the rockshaft valve.. Information is limited on this make of tractor and is a little frustrating trying to figure this out.. I dont want to take it to a dealership considering I dont want to pay for the bill I know they would stick me with.. I can fix it I just need some wisdom.. Thank you in advance!! Also I have not changed the hydraulic oil (which is full and clean) or filter which I will do next... But wouldnt my power steering and hydro-static transmission be acting up if I had a plugged filter? Thanks again

 

[Flakbait98]

*update* Went to JD yesterday and had my hydraulic filter opened up and checked and found nothing to speak of that would cause an issue. Talked to a mechanic and he suggested to check the pump since it is a stacked unit the has multiple pumps in one unit. So the power steering pump could be working but the 3pt portion of the pump could be bad.. And the hydro-static pump is internal which wont effect this issue... So the next step is to disconnect the line going to the rock-shaft valve and redirecting the fluid (if any) it a 5 gallon bucket. I'm torn between it being the pump or internals of the rock shaft valve... The reason I say that is when I checked my bypass line I had fluid in it. So this leads me to think either I don't have enough pressure or I have an issue in the valve body....
Anyways. I hope that by figuring this out helps someone else that has the same issue on the 3038e or 3032e..

 

[Flakbait98]

So after much anticipation I finally had time to strip the tractor down and remove the rock-shaft valve and inspect it. After tear down I found that it was in great working order with no defects found. so I then preceded to check the pump which I found no issue as of yet. However, After rechecking the hydraulic fluid and finding it a little low from removing the valve and such I was in the process of adding fluid when I got out my bore-scope camera and decided to inspect the rear differential. Almost immediately I found foreign debris sticking out of the oil.. Not good.... I then drained the oil and found that the drain was blocked by something heavy... I then removed the back cover to the PTO and found my main issue. the Piston and shaft for the rock-shaft had broke and fell in the the cavity below.. As well the previous owner mush have realized something was wrong and took the lift arms apart dropping the lever into the rear end as well... So luckily it didnt do too much damage.. it did enough but its still usable for my application. So now I know why my 3pt does not lift and what I need to do to fix it.... If anybody cares...

 

[RyeThomas]

Thanks for the update, this will help others at some point. Have you figured what it’s going to cost to get the 3 point back up and operational?

 

[ddbackhoe]

So luckily it didnt do too much damage.. it did enough but its still usable for my application. So now I know why my 3pt does not lift and what I need to do to fix it.... If anybody cares...

Too bad its almost always the last thing we check, good troubleshooting and narrative. I don't understand the comment "still usable for my application".....

 

[ovrszd]

Good report. Thanks for starting the thread. Keep us posted on the repairs.

I've never heard of this problem. Makes me curious how it all started? Probably will never know.

I'd repair everything while I had it apart. I'd be worried about a stray bolt laying in the bottom of the diff just waiting to be picked up by the ring gear......

 

[sd455dan]

Good report. Thanks for starting the thread. Keep us posted on the repairs.

I've never heard of this problem. Makes me curious how it all started? Probably will never know.

I'd repair everything while I had it apart. I'd be worried about a stray bolt laying in the bottom of the diff just waiting to be picked up by the ring gear......

Or pieces of the pinion and ring gear.

Looks like some of the ring gear teeth are already damaged/chipped.

 

[ovrszd]

Or pieces of the pinion and ring gear.

Looks like some of the ring gear teeth are already damaged/chipped.

Good catch Dan. I didn't look at the pics.

 

[Wagtail]

Of course we 'care' Flakbait... knowledge is knowledge!

Thanks for the report and pics.

 

[Flakbait98]

Ok Sorry for the delay everybody. Its been a busy week...... So I ordered the parts that I will need to fix my tractor.. But I would like to take the time and bring everybody up to speed on the situation or I should say the condition of my little J.D. 3038e. I have been always around tractors and particular JD's growing up. Its's not that I don't like other tractors its just I'm partial to green I guess. But in order to get a Green one of my own I have been trading tractors around as of late. I had a 1965 M.F. 202 "Workbull" with the Continental gas engine and loader. I got it for a song and a dance from a very sweet old lady who just wanted it gone. I sold it after putting a bit of work into it. In the mean time I had a 1968 MF135 with the 3 cylinder gas Perkins in it. Great little tractor! Even if it had 14000 hours on it and ran like a champ! didn't burn any oil and always started with just a touch of the key... I'm a little sad that I let it go but I had an opportunity to finally get a John Deere... Not only a John Deere but a newer one at that (2015).. But here's the catch... It came off a calf ranch so its had a hard life in fact its had a 5000 plus hour hard life.. But the PTO only has a .2 use if that makes up for it??:laughing:. At first I didn't want it.. but the more I looked at it and the price $5k I really had to consider it.. so after some negotiations I owned a newer JD for less than $5k.. But I knew with that price it brought baggage.. And a lot of cow crap crammed into every nook and cranny... Blah... However the mechanics of the tractor works great.. minus the 3pt and 4 wheel drive.. I live on only a acre so I don't need a big tractor. I just need a little tractor for the occasional chore aka snow and grading the driveway and such. So that leads into the comment I made "it will work for my application". I mean I probably will only put 10-15 hours a year on this tractor so the ring gear in the rear differential will work just fine.. Yes it has a couple of teeth with chunks out of them. But its just the tip of the gear not the base which is the strongest part and the pinion is in perfect shape. Its not like a truck going down the road at 75 mph its a slow moving tractor that I dont plan on working to death.. More light duty stuff than anything and with the hydro-static transmission it will never get a clutch dumped on the rear end .. I had a second and third opinion on it and they have came to the same conclusion (both mechanics by trade) to keep ring gear in place. Plus... hear is the not so cool part about the 3038e.. If you have spent any time looking for used parts for this tractor.. they don't exist. If you find one even one fresh off the flat bed in the salvage yard they have been already stripped.. So you are better off buying new parts (aka parts on par with the price of gold)..

Pats that I ordered:
LVU18970 (Lift shaft for 3pt) $142
LVA19814 (front ring and pinion) $477
JDLVU17890 (Drive shaft) $238
JDLVU18473 (Splined Coupling) $35
JDLVU28068 (Front axle seals) x2 $99 each
JDLVU19244 (seal Ring for rock shaft piston) $10

Total so far: $1102... Not including Oil and filters....


Just to add in LVA15052 (rear ring and pinion) $1200..... Not including all the other parts I would need to split the tractor and tear down the transmission for the pinion to be replaced.... you cannot buy just a ring gear... I understand the reason.. However if i could find a used ring gear or a new one on its own I would change it in a heart beat... but for the hassle... I dont think its worth it... could be wrong though..:confused3: