Maybe time for a new truck.

[LD1]

Just wanting to hear what others thoughts and opinions are.

Current truck is a 2005 Dodge 3500 DRW with 99k miles.

Low miles but age/time is killing this truck. Getting to the point I am lacking confidence in it's reliability to get me, tractor, and trailer to and from my jobs.

I have had this truck 9 or 10 years now and only racked up about 35k of the miles myself. This tricks sole purpose is to tow tractor around, tow dump trailer selling wood, and plowing snow in the winter. So I need it to be reliable. And if I keep it any longer, I think I need to invest alot of time and money getting to that point.

Last year I replaced the expensive fan clutch. Most highway drivers would probably never know this is bad...but plowing snow....slower speed...no airflow....truck gets hot.

Now that clutch, or wiring going to and from, has a problem. Truck isn't overheating....but pulling a constant 1.5a draw on the battery. I just pulled the fuse and put it back in when I need truck. Probably not a hard fix....but a harness with 8-10 wires....and trying to get a diagram or pinout on modern stuff is like pulling teeth.

Also getting a trouble code for turbo overboost. All accounts online seem to indicate MAP sensor or IAC. Truck still runs fine though.

Last year when plowing, started to get a slip in second gear. Adjusted the front band back to spec...problem solved but I think that is gonna be the last time that fix works...as I am pretty much out of adjustment there.

So I am thinking the trans is gonna need an overhaul in a year or two anyway. 35k hard miles of towig and plowing on a stock trans. Needed a good shift kit from the start, but no shop I can find wants to do a kit on an aged trans. They all say just wait til it needs rebuilt.

But all that isn't the big issue.....the corrosion of so many vital lines under the truck. Was out and about Friday and at my last job I noticed ATF undercoating the whole truck. But couldn't pinpoint the leak. The power steering has been leaking...but I just keep it topped up with ATF. So thinking it finally blew the seals. Went home with the intent of replacing the PS gearbox....but that wanst it. Transmission cooling lines.

They were so bad I am surprised it was just a pinhole. Lines were crazy expensive, one was on a 60 day backorder. Just had hydraulic hoses made up and back in business, but while in there working....must have bumped the fuel supply line....and the last spec of rust holding it together let go. Spraying fuel. Its a nylon tube but the last 4" it transitions to steel via quick connect and to banjo bolt fitting. Had to cut the QC off and just shive the nylon over the steel stub at the banjo.

So now the truck is functional again, but who knows what might let loose next pothole. The steel parts of the coolant lines running to the trans cooler that's on the block....badly corroded. Turbo oil cooler line....badly corroded. The rest of the low pressure fuel lines from filter to injector pump, and return, and from regulator off common rail....three in total I think....look like they won't make it til winter.

3 weeks ago truck started to get hot. Parked it and seen coolant seeping out around lower radiator hose connection. Top up with water, limp the last 5 miles home, and went to take that spring clamp off to see why it was leaking, and it just snapped in half. Rusted through on the top.

Oh, and about 6 months ago I had to replace the oil pan as it was rusted through and seeping oil. Glad I caught that one before it turned into more than a seep.

So at the very least if I keep truck, it's gonna need probably a grand worth of hoses, tubing, etc to replace all the corroded stuff. It's gonna need a PS gearbox to eliminate that leak. Then I'd say a trans rebuild within a year. Then figuring out the MAF/MAP/IAC code, and the fan clutch that is draining the battery.

Everyone keeps telling me trucks are worth a pretty penny because pre-emissios crack down. 24v 5.9 common rail. Weather it be soon....or down the road a ways....I am thinking that my next truck with have an emphasis on newer rather than low miles. Because age is what kills vehicles anymore....not use/miles. I think I'd rather have a 3-4 year old 180k mile truck as opposed to a 8-10 year old truck with only 80k. (And they are actually similar in price.)

But going to a 3-4 year old truck is a game changer for me. I havent follows what has happened recently. Do know crap about def, what to look out for, what to avoid, etc.

Am I foolish for considering an upgrade about 10 years newer than what I have? Or should I fix and keep what I got because the 5.9 and no emissions is that good?

 

[houstonscott]

If you are willing to suffer the small failures, and the inconvenience they throw your way, it might be worth keeping. If you need reliability, and travel far from home, it is time....

 

[om21braz]

It is going to come down to opinion I expect. No emissions devices is a big plus, but if you need to depend on it daily and just do not have time to make repairs/upgrades as needed - maybe a newer truck is the best choice. I have owned two trucks requiring def, all emissions equipment intact - no big issues. Tough living in an area that rust dictates when to retire an otherwise good truck. Good luck with your decision.

 

[k0ua]

I am thinking new truck and have it double undercoated. Fighting the corrosion/rust monster could become a full-time job. Up to you though to weigh the cost/benefit .

 

[EddieWalker]

I think the key factor is that you rely on your truck to make a living. You are already dealing with small issues. Do they affect your ability to make money? Will the next issue cause you a loss of income? Once you start losing money, it's time to upgrade or replace what is causing the problem.

 

[LD1]

Tough living in an area that rust dictates when to retire an otherwise good truck.

Agreed. Sad thing is, we/they have the capability of making them where they wont rot out....but opt not to because then they could never sell new trucks.

I'd pay a premium (what maybe $4-5 grand more) for a "corrosion package" if it were offered. Include all stainless fuel, brake, coolant lines, etc. Stainless exhaust....the works.

 

[LD1]

I think the key factor is that you rely on your truck to make a living. You are already dealing with small issues. Do they affect your ability to make money? Will the next issue cause you a loss of income? Once you start losing money, it's time to upgrade or replace what is causing the problem.

Not really an accurate assessment that I depend on it to make a living.

I have a full time job. Work Monday - Thursday. the truck is for the side business. Maybe $20k a year give or take. I usually dedicate one of my off days to mowing (because I enjoy seat time on the tractor). In the fall, I cut and sell firewood because I enjoy it. Truck is vital to that as well. And plowing.....here in central ohio.....maybe 5 events per year.

Not a get rich business by no means. And I would be just fine without the side jobs, but its something I enjoy.

But when I have a days worth of work planned and scheduled...maybe 5 or 6 jobs....and something breaks and Im stranded....first it aint easy getting a one-ton latched to a gooseneck with the MX5100 back home. That aint gonna be easy or cheap. Then I have to call and cancel all my jobs for the day. Just a PITA

 

[MossRoad]

If it wasn't bothering you, you wouldn't be talking about it. In the back of your mind, you've always got this little voice asking "What's gonna break next?".

If the down-time isn't effecting your income, and your'e just doing it for side-work and enjoyment, then just add up all the costs to fix it each year, and is it still less than new/different truck payments? And ask yourself if its worth the aggravation to break down, or is the aggravation of a different truck payment worse?

Can you find a low mileage truck of the same year that's in good shape? Keep the old one for a backup. Or sell it and use the cash to offset the purchase of the different one.

 

[LD1]

Ferric melanoma is a terminal disease up here in the salt belt and our humidity. I sold my 2004 GMC with 50K on it for the same reason. I think you should go new rather than considering something with high mileage. I used to be a high mileage driver before I retired, and I found that problems started cropping up around 175K. I haven't spec'd any new trucks, but for your uses, I think you could do what you want with a gas version and maybe a SWD 1 ton.

Gas and SRW aint gonna happen. And new trucks are 70k plus and that aint gonna happen either.

Few years old and 150k on the clock for half or less of what a new one cost is my line of thinking.I dont drive enough to "wear" out even a 150k mile truck. Age is the killer.

And if I can get 10 years out of a 3-4 year old truck for $30k-35k.....IMO that makes better sense than spending 2x's as much and only getting 25% more usage (13-14 years of service.)

Sure, a gasser could "probably" do what I want. But I like my diesel. Sure its an $8000-$10000 option.......BUT.....10 years down the road it also makes the truck equally more valuable.

KBB says my truck in good condition (I know it isnt but just for comparison)....is worth $19k
Same exact options but selecting hemi instead of diesel.....$13k

I dont see any reason that would change 10 years down the road....with trucks that are 10 years newer and I am in this same situation again.

 

[Inspector507]

LD1, with where you're living, rust and corrosion is a given. Especially if you drive on salted roads in the winter.

 

[riptides]

Seems like your side business of one year can cover your "new" truck for a long while.

I am on the side of turn key and go in everything I do. Just cannot afford the no trust factor, no matter how small.

Daughter just lost a brake line to corrosion a few days ago. Lucky it happened in the driveway.

 

[LD1]

If it wasn't bothering you, you wouldn't be talking about it. In the back of your mind, you've always got this little voice asking "What's gonna break next?".

If the down-time isn't effecting your income, and your'e just doing it for side-work and enjoyment, then just add up all the costs to fix it each year, and is it still less than new/different truck payments? And ask yourself if its worth the aggravation to break down, or is the aggravation of a different truck payment worse?

Can you find a low mileage truck of the same year that's in good shape? Keep the old one for a backup. Or sell it and use the cash to offset the purchase of the different one.

Thats exactly it. In the back of my mind, I am thinking what is gonna happen next.

Cant complain....truck gave me 9 years of trouble free service. But now its either gonna cost me a fortune to make it where I wont worry......or its gonna nickle and dime me.....or its time to send it down the road. Those are my 3 choices.

I figure I'll see what I can get for this truck + ~$10-$15k. Getting 10 years newer but more miles would be an upgrade in my mind in terms of reliability.

A second truck....even of similar vintage for a backup would cost me at least that 10-15k......but a second insurance payment, tags, etc. Dont really want another vehicle to maintain either. I already dont drive the truck enough....just sitting is about the worst thing you can do to a vehicle.

Right now, my truck is certainly "fixable" and would probably give many more years of service for $4-$5k invested.....but its most certainly the aggravation at this point. Just getting tired of working on stuff. A 13 year old truck shouldnt be rotted out to this point.:banghead:

 

[Ford850]

Would you rather be mowing, plowing, and cutting firewood, or wrenching on the truck? That's what it's going to come down to since we all have limited free time. If you enjoy the challenge of getting the truck back to "reliable" then it might make sense to keep it. For me, I couldn't stand having a truck that wasn't reliable, and I don't enjoy wrenching that much compared to the other things.

 

[MossRoad]

On a funny it happened to me and not you note...

I weed eatered and tossed a rock through the rear driver's side quarter window of my mostly trouble-free '93 Suburban Thursday evening! Found one at a junk yard for $65.

:confused3:

 

[jwstewar]

You are in the same boat we were. We have the '99 Silverado 1500 that I bought new. We've been using around the house/farm and towing our camper and goats with it. It has about 147k miles. We are wanting to start going to shows a bit farther away and even towing the camper is starting to be "harder." And of course, rust is starting to become an issue. So I started looking a year or so ago. Really wanted a diesel, but didn't want to nor could I afford a new one. So I found a 2017 Silverado 2500HD with the Duramax/Allison combo. It is a crew cab with the 6.5' bed 4wd. It only 13k miles when I found it. The dealership put a leveling kit and aftermarket wheels and tires, so they were brand new. It was priced at 46,800. I got them down to 46k. It has a few dents and scratches - actually a lot for a 1 year old truck, my wife is complaining about them, but like I told her, the truck was priced accordingly, otherwise that truck would have been closer to 55k.

 

[4570Man]

I hate wrenching on stuff. I’ll fix a few things but once it gets to constant bother it’s gone. Hopefully my dump truck has a few more years of reliable service before that point. Maybe the city will retire their fleet by then because they have a bunch of nice trucks.

 

[crashz]

How is the condition of the rest of the truck? Frame and Body? I have been a Fluid Film fan for many years and have saved a few trucks from demise with it. My 2 cents is that if the truck is in good shape, fix everything bow to stern and use a rust coating (FF is my go to) to keep her going. Not all trucks can be saved though. The truck in my avatar was too far gone (frame rotted through).

The other thing is your aim of trucks: A newer used truck puts you in the 2015ish range? From company experience, the 6.7 Powerstrokes seem good, but about 120K start getting very expensive to repair. We have 11 in that age range and many of them have had EGR cooler replacments. I have absolutely no other experience with these rigs. But universally, they are very expensive to buy and repair. I'd hate to put out $45K and have to replace injectors or a turbo.

So again JMO, but I'd fix your old truck if the bones are good and keep the rust at bay. Or buy a brand new truck with long (time) warranty. Skip the junk in the middle, its just a headache.

 

[Rustyiron]

J
But going to a 3-4 year old truck is a game changer for me. I havent follows what has happened recently. Do know crap about def, what to look out for, what to avoid, etc.

Rust is a **tch!
As for the 35k miles in 10 years, I'd just buy a gas truck, or consider it very hard. Rust will get the next one as well and you'll be in a similar situation with a junk truck with a good motor.

 

[MickeyDBC]

I am sort of in the same boat except my 2014 Ram diesel is about six months (will hit 100K miles) from going out of emissions warranty and I need to at least step up to a long bed 3500. Looked at the new GM Duramax and it seems to be going through a lot of teething troubles and with the new software security in it there is no way you are ever going to be able to delete it. Ford has gotten too expensive and you hear about warrantee problems that Ford blames the owner for and refuses to pay for. So it looks like I am back to Ram. If you shop around you can get a 2018 4x4 DRW diesel for under 50K, what I am starting to shop for.

 

[coobie]

Agreed. Sad thing is, we/they have the capability of making them where they wont rot out....but opt not to because then they could never sell new trucks.

I'd pay a premium (what maybe $4-5 grand more) for a "corrosion package" if it were offered. Include all stainless fuel, brake, coolant lines, etc. Stainless exhaust....the works.

KROWN rust proofing is your friend where you live in the rust belt..