Just got price on new 3 1/2 ton air conditioner . Is Trans good choice? $3800. is total cost. Replacing Air handler inside, lines and outside air-condition unit. However, he hasn't given us any
more info than tonnage of 3 1/2 . and 10 year warranty. It's air only, no heat pump. What other questions should be asked? Our old one is 34 years old.
Cheers....Coffeeman
So how old is the house? original sizing of AC unit is based on sq. footage and ideal initial install insulation.
Consider getting a SEER 1 or higher instead of the 12 or 14. The condenser unit will be larger and have more efficient heat rejection, thus reducing electrical billing. Some utilities have rebates something to consider looking into.
Trane is a quality unit. 34 years is about 14 years past due.
Is the $3800 the condenser unit and also the air handler inside?
If yes it is a good deal.
Points to consider:
What size of air filter does this unit have?
Some units have a 4" filter housing and some a 1" filter housing.
A 4inch think air filter will last longer and filter more efficiently then a 1 inch air filter. The MERV ratings are flexible and provide quality filtering options for those with allergies etc.
Now is also the time to inspect the air ducts. Are they made of sheet metal? If yes, most likely they leak and the attic is a comfy place for critters.
Speaking from experience in a 40 year old house.
So either repair and reseal the joints and have them cleaned out or replaced.
If the present unit burned out with a compressor failure, the copper refrigerant line will have contaminants and will contaminate the new unit and contribute to a possible shortened life. I had the line replaced in ours.
Ask if the installer if they will dehydrate the new unit by pulling a slow vacuum to dry out the lines from condenser to air handler unit. Many times a contractor will sweat the lines in and open the condenser and check the charge and 'trust' the installed filter dryer. This is just lazy.
When the new air handler is installed a new air box should be built to have a tight fit over the air discharge into the distribution trunk.
The base that the unit sits on is it sound? Water over flow many times leaks past the drain pan due to clogged drain and the wood rots.
So this is a point of inspection also.
lastly it should have a breaker / disconnect near the compressor. This is a great location to install a surge arrestor to mitigate potential compressor burn out from line surges during storms.
I've many thread here and I may get lots of negative comments on why not to use them.
But there is no utopia.
We research and make our best guessed decisions best on our research and your mileage will always vary.
On edit: A heat load analysis is a good idea if it is within one's budget. Or talk to your provider about a heat load assessment based on condition of house, windows air ducts etc.
Our first house was a tract house with a 2 1/2 ton unit I went up to a 3 ton unit. It lowered my monthly bill and still removed the humidity but did not work as hard. Once a house settles, insulation settles and house shifts there are countless air entry points. So a sizing chart may say 2 1/2 ton for a given square footage but other factors are at play. Our second house was 40 years old and we went from a 3 1/2 ton to a four ton for same reason, with same results.
Hope this helps you get on a good path to help cope a very hot summer.
Regards.
