Yanmar 155D new owner intro / advice request

[graysonh]

Hello and thanks for having me on the forum!

My name is Grayson and I have managed vineyards in the Sierra Foothills of California as my day job for a while now (currently with the boss's Landini 85F), but just moved on to my own small vineyard and have thus purchased my first tractor -- a Yanmar 155D, which my wife has named Jolly Green. I paid $3500 for the tractor, a Woods 50" (48"?) mower [EDIT: Woods RM42 = 42" mower], a rototiller (remembered the brand right up until I started writing this post), and a spring harrow. For CA standards I think it was a pretty good deal. It won't be able to do everything I need it to do right away (notably spraying) but it gets me pretty far and it feels good.

ANY commentary on the following is very, very welcome. I am also a new dad and haven't been able to do as much research as I'd have liked so far, but I'm taking a day off tomorrow to focus some tlc on the new machine. I can offer gratitude, vineyard advice, and maaaaybe some Landini semi-expertise in return

I mowed a few rows after trailering it home the other day, but I think it'll be wise to do as much fluid-servicing as I can before really putting it to work. First tune-up will include:
-garden-hose radiator and block flush. I am planning to do each separately first with motor off, then fill system with water and run, drain, then fill with coolant mix -- sound good?
-engine oil change (am i correct that engine and transmission/hydraulic lubrication systems are separate?)
-check transmission/hydraulic but not planning to change at the moment
-air filter change
-fuel filter looks new but will double check
-tighten fan mount, anything else I notice
-sharpen and balance mower blade.
-blow out cobwebs / tidy up
-What else to look out for?

Lastly a few questions:
-Anyone else use the Woods mower? The PO said to spin it at 540 but the mower itself says 800 (which I assume means 770?). The first cuts were not that impressive, hoping a blade-sharpening will help, but I probably want to use the faster PTO setting too?
-Can anyone point me to a dashboard diagram (indicator lights, etc) and a simple spec sheet (fluid quantities etc)? I've only been able to find the Service Manual online and it skips such basics.
-ANY other pointers / advice very much appreciated. $3500 might not seem like much for a tractor, but margins are tight for my little family and I want to keep Jolly Green running strong for as long as I can.

 

[winston1]

Welcome to the forum, very nice introduction and a nice looking 155D. :welcome: I will be sending you a pm. Might note these posts about the rm42 being rated for 2000rpm. Gary Jamison that stated that is very knowledgeable about the smaller Yanmars. I'm sure he would welcome a call from you and be willing to talk to you about the mower. Jamieson's Tractor Sales
in Honesdale, PA 18431

- PennLive.com

 

[California]

Welcome neighbor! I'm some 100 miles west of you over by the coast.

Your proposed initial setup sounds good. I have only a couple of points to add:

Buy a gallon of distilled water to mix for the coolant.

I've read sharpening rotary mower blades is a waste of time. It's a tool for shredding things, its not a finish mower. Just run it at full specified input pto rpm to improve the smoothness of cut.

Set up a search on Ebay for the original sales brochures with specifications, and for the three original manuals: Operation, Service, and Parts.

The $30 I&T repair manual for Yanmars has the essentials, but in brief form intended for the experienced mechanic.

Enjoy!

 

[kenmac]

Just my opinion ....flush the system with distilled water if at all possible

 

[clemsonfor]

Welcome neighbor! I'm some 100 miles west of you over by the coast.

Your proposed initial setup sounds good. I have only a couple of points to add:

Buy a gallon of distilled water to mix for the coolant.

I've read sharpening rotary mower blades is a waste of time. It's a tool for shredding things, its not a finish mower. Just run it at full specified input pto rpm to improve the smoothness of cut.

Set up a search on Ebay for the original sales brochures with specifications, and for the three original manuals: Operation, Service, and Parts.

The $30 I&T repair manual for Yanmars has the essentials, but in brief form intended for the experienced mechanic.

Enjoy!

California if I had my guess, I think that is a finish mower so blade sharpening would be wise. Also the higher RPM would also make more sense in a finish mower than bush hog.

As far as capacities. I think the Hydraulic will be no more than 4 gallons 4.5 at most as that's what my ym2000 is. I know your not changing it but just telling you just but a 5 gallon bucket when you do. Any JD303 fluid is fine. It can be had for $30-40 a pail. The engine oil I would start at 4 quarts and if more is needed add up to 5 as that's what the larger 240/2000 takes. California runs 4 quarts in his 240 for years and has had no trouble. Me here in the hot dirty south I run as much oil as I can up to the fill line (maybe a bit under I don't remember?) which full is 5. quarts. I would change the fuel filter if you can squeak out the extra $7 at carquest or wherever, sometimes the way the bowl is designed its hard to see the water in the bottom of it ( you could always put the old filter back in if not dirty). You may want to grab a new oring for the fuel bowl unless you have a metric or SAE set laying around and you may be able to find one that will work. Yanmar used a Japanese spec orings in their tractors, I learned this when I was doing some work on mine and I could not match the ones on the lift arms up. I was able to use a standard metric one in the fuel cutoff handle that was leaking recently. I called Aaron at HOye and spoke with him and he said some of the less important stuff like fuel bowl and things you can get by but others are the hard to find Japanese ones. I just bought what I needed from them, cheaper than driving all over town anyway. I also floated the idea by him about making up a kit for us to by, that has multiples of all the common orings in these tractors, make it like $10 or 20 or something and make it like an add on item or something you see in a common screen, I said I know I would add one to my order as most of the other guys would so that when they need an oring they have it in the cabinet instead of trying to cram a metric one in place or having to place another order an wait.

Engine oil per book is every 50 hours and filter every other time or 100 hours. I think we all just do annual changes here, some probably do 50 hours but with todays oils I bet 100 hour oil and filter changes are fine too but for me that would be years so I just drop it every year. They are 35 year old specs the book lists.

I run power service for cetane boost, as it helps keep the knock down and I add two stroke oil to the fuel at a ratio of about 150:1 since our fuel lacks the sulpher for lubricity that im sure they had in japan 40 years ago and for the fact that diesel in America to day is vastly different I am sure than what they had in japan in the 70s when these were designed.

There is also stuff in the book about using ditch water for your radiator and running with out a battery, or starting procedure for then removing the battery. And something California mentions about cleaning injector chambers or something with a sharp stick and mutton tallow. hahah

And finally congratulations on being a new dad, I was there 3 years ago. And it was impossible for me or the wife to get anything done. He was a handful and needed us all the time. Its way easier now but still a chore. Love that little guy though!

 

[California]

California if I had my guess, I think that is a finish mower so blade sharpening would be wise. Also the higher RPM would also make more sense in a finish mower than bush hog.

Oops I think you are right. Graysonh listen to Clemsonfor, not to me!

Oil quantity: I expect 3+ quarts will fill it. Pour cautiously and check the stick frequently long before you finish pouring a gallon jug. Ordinary Diesel-rated 15w40 motor oil.

Yes, this is a 2-cylinder so Power Service fuel additive should reduce the clanking, reduce smoking when pulling hard, and help easy starting in colder weather. I find it makes a big improvement on the 2-cylinder YM240 but no noticeable difference on the one decade younger 3-cylinder YM186D.

Your climate isn't so severe that you need the optional Thermostart (manifold heater) but I like to use it for every cold start. Twist the key left, or look for its button on the dash for older models. You can test that it is functional - trace its wire to the manifold. The device looks like a spark plug with a tube coming down from a little fuel reservoir. Feel for warmth when it is powered. You should be able to start easily down to some 40 degrees without needing Thermostart. I hope the prior owner taught you that proper starting is spin the engine with compression released, then drop the compression lever and let the inertia of the flywheel assist the starter as it chugs to life. Never use the compression lever as an engine shut-down.


These things are delightfully simple. You'll soon run it like a pro.

 

[graysonh]

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome!

A carrier pigeon showed up today with the Parts Manual which has a fluid capacities list among other useful info, that was a very welcome surprise:thumbsup: Looks like I can get the Operation Manual from Hoye so I will do that tomorrow. I will probably call and ask someone what the essential "starter kit" is and go from there. And I guess I'll wait on the I&T manual for now.

As for the radiator I'm thinking I'll go hose when cold to blast out any rust, then distilled for the actual "flush" and then the 50/50 mix with distilled down to about 25% coolant.

California I lived in Carneros for a long time and I'm in your neck of the woods often so I'll look for you out there -- can't miss that Yanmar Green!

Clemsonfor, great advice. I think I'm always trying to shirk a fuel filter change cuz of the one time 5 years ago when I had to bleed lines afterwards. But I found this link at Hoye Yanmar fuel filter replacement. to make sure I don't forget any steps. Also I'm thinking mutton tallow may belong in the 5 minute epoxy / blue tape / mag lite realm of usefulness....

And finally congratulations on being a new dad, I was there 3 years ago. And it was impossible for me or the wife to get anything done. He was a handful and needed us all the time. Its way easier now but still a chore. Love that little guy though!

Thanks! Didn't want to overshare on my first post but (as so many already know) parenthood has just totally dominated me!

Again, thanks all. Looking forward to participating here. I've worked with tractors in some capacity for 15 years but never a Yanmar, but as I said, it feels good and I'm excited about it. Plus, smaller the tractor the sooner the kids feet can reach the clutch....

 

[California]

I'm always trying to shirk a fuel filter change cuz of the one time 5 years ago when I had to bleed lines afterwards. But I found this link at Hoye Yanmar fuel filter replacement. to make sure I don't forget any steps.

Aw Aaron (Hoye) got real complicated there. Here's what another dealer posted on here long ago and it has worked every time I've needed to bleed the system (don't ask )
I think its documented this way in the Operation Manual :

There are three bleed screws. Filter inlet, filter outlet, and the third is down on the injector pump.
Bleed the uppermost one (nearest the tank) until pure fuel comes out. Close it, do the same to the second one (fuel outlet side). Close that, bleed then close the lowest one.
It's that simple.

I've never had to bleed on the high pressure side of the pump. Cranking at full throttle (with compression released) will drive any air out of those lines.

 

[Jtullis13]

I agree with all the replies prior to mine. California, Clemsonfor, & Winston are very knowledgeable on those things discussed. I would like to add that use Howes summer & winter formula. I also have used 2 stroke oil as a lubricant as well and routinely use Optilube too. Also the distilled water is very important. Welcome & good luck with your new purchase.

 

[winston1]

After a little research I have another thought or two about your mower. Your mower picture shows it to be an RM42 which stands for 42" cut. The RM stands for rear mount. These mowers are classified as finish mowers. They have a single swinging blade like a rough cut rotary mower. They also have an over run clutch built in. Also seem to come in cw and ccw rotation. The on line parts manuals indicate different suffixes on the end of the RM42 such as YM-1, YM-2, KB-1, JD-1. I would believe that would indicate tractor manufacturer. Wondering if yours has one of these suffixes on it anywhere? Here is a good shot of the belt configuration. https://d323w7klwy72q3.cloudfront.net/i/a/2016/20161214ve/L4903F.JPG

The YM155 has a two speed pto and 2nd is 770rpm. I am guessing that would be the speed for your mower. Only an opinion, not fact at this point.

 

[bmaverick]

I'll echo Kenmac's statement too!

DO NOT use garden hose flushing for any vehicle's cooling system PERIOD. Regular tap water, even semi-filtered, has contaminates that will in time (months) cause galvanic corrosion internally to the system. Distilled water, RO water and even Berkey filtered water passes the needed requirements for the cooling system. I had spent nearly 15-years working for GM in the sciences of HVAC+engine-cooling technologies along with a few US patents over those years.

To do a flush, use distilled white vinegar 50% with 50% water as mentioned above. Run the tractor for 3-5mins on low idle. Drain, flush with 100% water mentioned above. Now add the good ol green stuff premix 50/50. If the first flushing is really dirty, redo the first step.

BTW, NEVER use DEXCOOL in anything. :2cents: That is another story and I can not go into those details. Look it up on the web, the evidence is all there.

 

[clemsonfor]

Aw Aaron (Hoye) got real complicated there. Here's what another dealer posted on here long ago and it has worked every time I've needed to bleed the system (don't ask )
I think its documented this way in the Operation Manual :

There are three bleed screws. Filter inlet, filter outlet, and the third is down on the injector pump.
Bleed the uppermost one (nearest the tank) until pure fuel comes out. Close it, do the same to the second one (fuel outlet side). Close that, bleed then close the lowest one.
It's that simple.

I've never had to bleed on the high pressure side of the pump. Cranking at full throttle (with compression released) will drive any air out of those lines.

Never had to crack injector lines for filter change. You might if you run it dry out of fuel, but just do those 3 screws , on filter housing and injector pump and your good to go, starts right up wont miss a beat.

 

[graysonh]

Ya know Winston, I was changing the oil last night and I thought "why would a 48" mower have model number '42'?" So I did the old one-redwing-equals-one-foot test and it is indeed a 42" mower. Oh well. i am going to finish the fluid / filter service, get it working on the 770 pto setting (which in some places is referred to as 800?) and see if it still requires sharpening. Haven't run it at the faster setting yet.

And thanks all -- I will NOT use a garden hose! Initially I just wanted to use one while cold in order to blast out whatever rusty bits I could. But I'll just do a more traditional flush with distilled water. The system takes only a gallon, so 98 cents per flush is A-okay with me. Add vinegar and we may be up to a couple bucks. Considering I put a gallon of new oil in last night for an engine that (who knew?) only takes around 2.5L, the $.98 will barely register on the list of silly expenses

Note to any future 155D / 2 cyl yanmar owners: your tractor uses less oil than you can believe!

 

[clemsonfor]

Ya know Winston, I was changing the oil last night and I thought "why would a 48" mower have model number '42'?" So I did the old one-redwing-equals-one-foot test and it is indeed a 42" mower. Oh well. i am going to finish the fluid / filter service, get it working on the 770 pto setting (which in some places is referred to as 800?) and see if it still requires sharpening. Haven't run it at the faster setting yet.

And thanks all -- I will NOT use a garden hose! Initially I just wanted to use one while cold in order to blast out whatever rusty bits I could. But I'll just do a more traditional flush with distilled water. The system takes only a gallon, so 98 cents per flush is A-okay with me. Add vinegar and we may be up to a couple bucks. Considering I put a gallon of new oil in last night for an engine that (who knew?) only takes around 2.5L, the $.98 will barely register on the list of silly expenses

Note to any future 155D / 2 cyl yanmar owners: your tractor uses less oil than you can believe!

Sorry if I am partly to blame for the over 1 quart of excess oil you put in:ashamed: I too would of thought it took 4 ???


Also Winston was also suggestion looking for a suffix to the model of that mower. They were made in 2 different rotations, and if you have the wrong one you could be turning the blade in reverse so no matter how sharp that blade is it wont matter. An easy way to tell is go cut for 10 minutes and look to see what side of the blade is shiny, the back side or the sharpened end. Since you have already used this like you said you wont have to do any additional cutting most likely, the metal will already be polished up.

 

[graysonh]

After a little research I have another thought or two about your mower. Your mower picture shows it to be an RM42 which stands for 42" cut. The RM stands for rear mount. These mowers are classified as finish mowers. They have a single swinging blade like a rough cut rotary mower. They also have an over run clutch built in. Also seem to come in cw and ccw rotation. The on line parts manuals indicate different suffixes on the end of the RM42 such as YM-1, YM-2, KB-1, JD-1. I would believe that would indicate tractor manufacturer. Wondering if yours has one of these suffixes on it anywhere? Here is a good shot of the belt configuration. https://d323w7klwy72q3.cloudfront.net/i/a/2016/20161214ve/L4903F.JPG
.

Thanks Winston and Clemsonfor. I'm away from it right now, but I haven't noticed a suffix. It does have text saying something like "For Kubota xxx (can't remember) use 800 | For Yanmar 135 and 155 use 800| For (can't remember) use 540 | All others use 540"

What I'm not sure I understand is, would it be a CCW mower for a CW PTO? Is that some sort of feature? If so, not the end of the world I guess, I could just sharpen the opposite side? Or, if it is CCW, is it meant for a CCW PTO? If so that is quite a bummer!

 

[California]

DO NOT use garden hose flushing for any vehicle's cooling system PERIOD. Regular tap water, even semi-filtered, has contaminates that will in time (months) cause galvanic corrosion internally to the system. Distilled water, RO water and even Berkey filtered water passes the needed requirements for the cooling system. I had spent nearly 15-years working for GM in the sciences of HVAC+engine-cooling technologies along with a few US patents over those years.

To do a flush, use distilled white vinegar 50% with 50% water as mentioned above. Run the tractor for 3-5mins on low idle. Drain, flush with 100% water mentioned above. Now add the good ol green stuff premix 50/50. If the first flushing is really dirty, redo the first step.

BTW, NEVER use DEXCOOL in anything. :2cents: That is another story and I can not go into those details. Look it up on the web, the evidence is all there.

Excellent advice, I never knew that. Tapwater at the orchard is so acidic that coffee will turn your stomach, we don't use it for cooking. (and there's no water softener etc). I'll use a distilled water flush, or two, the next time I change coolant.

Thanks!

 

[California]

Considering I put a gallon of new oil in last night for an engine that (who knew?) only takes around 2.5L ...Note to any future 155D / 2 cyl yanmar owners: your tractor uses less oil than you can believe!

I hope you drained off the excess!

 

[winston1]

Although there are cw and ccw models I would rest easy thinking it is correct for your 155 if it came with it. Blade tip speed is important to get a good cut.

 

[careyo63]

I use a Woods FM made for JD. It has regular mower type blades. I use straight cut blades and not the High Lift that wear out quick. I run 2nd. gear PTO. @ about 1700eng. RPM. Love it!! I sharpen them every year and had the straight cut for over 3 yrs. The high lift lasted about 2 Tops.

 

[clemsonfor]

Thanks Winston and Clemsonfor. I'm away from it right now, but I haven't noticed a suffix. It does have text saying something like "For Kubota xxx (can't remember) use 800 | For Yanmar 135 and 155 use 800| For (can't remember) use 540 | All others use 540"

What I'm not sure I understand is, would it be a CCW mower for a CW PTO? Is that some sort of feature? If so, not the end of the world I guess, I could just sharpen the opposite side? Or, if it is CCW, is it meant for a CCW PTO? If so that is quite a bummer!

you could sharpen the other side, I thought about that, but usually the blade profile wont quite work right the other way unless it has flat blades and then there still usually shaped for one direction.