Recommendation on short tie-down

[MillWeld]

I am installing D-rings on the floor of my trailer which will connect to the frame for max strength. When loaded on the trailer I want to secure my tractor from tipping so I will put chains around the axles and secure them to the D-rings. My question is how to tension the chains given the short distance from the axle to the D-ring. I can't measure this distance right now because the tractor is in the shop but the working room is probably less than 18". (I am thinking I want a 5000 lb WLL tie-down; I trust load binders more than ratchet straps.) The tractor is a 1958 Ford 641. My searches for chain binders don't give the lengths. I would like to have my trailer modified before I go to pick it up. Thanks.

 

[BoylermanCT]

I don't know if you can get a binder in 18". It would be close. Can you cross tie the load, i.e. chain the left wheel to the right side of the trailer, and right axle to the left side of the trailer. You'd get more space for your binder.

 

[bcp]

If you can't cross the tie downs, you could make a couple of short chains, hook direct, then tension from the binders on the other end.

I sometimes see heavy machinery tied down down with a steel cable loop, with cable clamps.

Bruce

 

[MillWeld]

If you can't cross the tie downs, you could make a couple of short chains, hook direct, then tension from the binders on the other end.
Bruce

I didn't follow the suggestion "tension from the binders on the other end". Can you clarify?
Bob

 

[bcp]

Short, non-adjustable chains on the front. Regular binders on the rear that are tightened enough to put tension on the front chains.

Bruce

 

[dstig1]

That was similar to my trick. I would back the tractor on, connect the chains on the front to the tractor and directly to the D-rings, then continue backing up a little to tension them. Then on the rear I had 2 more chains (very short) and I would use binders on those 2 chains to do final tension. Worked great, and only 2 ratchet binders used.

 

[whis]

Don't put d rings directly under the axle, put them in front or behind. if you put them directly under the axle the tractor will rock back a forth

 

[MillWeld]

OK. Now I get it. (In my case I go forward to load the tractor on the trailer). With the rear wheels between the tandem axles tie down with chains to D-rings then tension it forward until tight. Enough tension will prevent tipping and rolling. I could even use the front trailer frame to ratchet the trailer forward, but I think I will install 3rd and 4th D-rings just far enough forward of the tractor to allow working room. Sound like a plan? Do you leave it in gear as an extra precaution or is that a bad idea?
Bob

 

[Looking4new]

I think I would check with your D.O.T. on whether or not that is legal before I ever ventured out on the road.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You need a angle on your chains. About 45deg. If not the thing will roll back and forth 6" every time you stop and take off.

 

[LD48750]

The BEST way to secure your tractor is to cross chain it.
R front of tractor to L front of trailer, R rear to l rear of trailer.
D rings 1 to 2 foot in front & behind the tractor.

If you look at chained loads on trucks going down the road, you will see this configuration on those where it can be done.

Safe motoring.

 

[MillWeld]

OK. If I cross the chains I will have plenty of working room. I won't even need D-rings; I can tie to directly to the trailer frame. Lots of good info here. This is why I joined TBN. Thanks,
Bob

 

[Egon]

Cross chaining is fine as long as there is a chain angle front to back to keep tractor from rolling. As DP's post.

You need an X type chaining pattern to prevent any forward or backward movement.

 

[aczlan]

Cross chaining is fine as long as there is a chain angle front to back to keep tractor from rolling. As DP's post.

You need an X type chaining pattern to prevent any forward or backward movement.

Ideally you want the chains to go down, forward/backwards and sideways at a 45 degree angle in each direction. If it's less than 45 degrees or more than 45 degrees it won't work as well to resist movement in the other direction (be it sideways, forward and back or up and down).

Aaron Z

 

[MillWeld]

I'm going to reconsider using D-rings IF I can satisfactorily mount them flush with the 1.5" white oak floor. I want to mount with Ubolts that go around two 2.5" pipe cross-framing members under the floor. (I also have 1 x 4 channel iron to which the floor is bolted). I will have to cut a recess in the floor for flush mounted rings and I am concerned that will weaken the floor. So my question is essentially how to flush-mount D-rings. If I can't flush-mount then I probably won't use D-rings because if don't want to compromise my flat floor for lumber hauling. Thanks again,
Bob

 

[s219]

I wouldn't bother with d-rings, first of all because you'll never find the right place where they work for everything, and second, they are going to be a pain to deal with if you ever transport bulk materials in the trailer. If you really must add extra tie-downs, have them welded/bolted to the edge of the trailer frame where they are much more versatile and out of the way. You also get maximum stability since your tie-down chains/straps will now angle all the way to the side of the trailer and have a wider footprint.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I wouldn't bother with d-rings, first of all because you'll never find the right place where they work for everything, and second, they are going to be a pain to deal with if you ever transport bulk materials in the trailer. If you really must add extra tie-downs, have them welded/bolted to the edge of the trailer frame where they are much more versatile and out of the way. You also get maximum stability since your tie-down chains/straps will now angle all the way to the side of the trailer and have a wider footprint.

That is what I did, welded 4 D rings to the side rails of my trailer. I did this after loading my tractor on it and determined the best location front and rear for them. The D rings lay flat on the rail so unless something is hanging off the trailer, they wont interfere with it laying flat on the trailer boards. I actually slanted the D rings mounting rather than mounting them 90degrees to the rails so that when chained to the tractor the chains are pulling at the D ring in a straight line. The location happened to be half way between the standards on the trailer frame so it added 4 more tie down points.

 

[Egon]

Pictures of tie downs on trailer.

 

[kevin37b]

You want a rail on each side of the trailer with "2 spacers every 16" . I am talking 1/2 x 2 flat steel for rail and spacers . Trying to help . Also , putting chains on and driving away and then binding will get you some new payments to make ?Also in Ill there will be binders on every chain . That includes loader bucket and any attachments .

 

[bcp]

If you want strong anchors and a flat floor, get some of these. There are several designs available.

Trailer Bed Chain Tie Down, 6600 lbs.

Floor Chain Tiedown

Bruce